dripley

ther were 2 engines in 02, the ho was 245hp and the 5 speed and auto were 235, dont know about 01.

i would think as long as you did not over heat the engine you would probably ok. do you have an egt gauge, that would give you a better idea than the temp gauge.

sounds to me with the experience of everyone you ought to put them in and regulate it all with your right foot. in the mean time save up some monery for a new clutch. eventually you will need it.

careful, i think thats my cousin.:lmao:

not sure that you are wrong. i had not looked at it that way. i just emailed DAP and asked that question. not sure that rv275 is a bosch name or just a name. we will find out shortly. --- Update to the previous post... i stand corrected. J Kidd at DAP says the rv275 are Bosch. I did not realize rv275 was bosch name.

i ran a Kleen deisel product a while back. it had acetane booster, injector cleaner, more mpg, i dont remeber it saying any thing about being quieter though. ran about 4 months and never got any better milage or other benifit i could see. it definately did not run any quieter. i am glad i quit using it. especially after i satred reading up on my fuel system and the vp44. i know i am talking about 2nd gen5.9 versus your 6.7 and i dont know anything about yours, but i would suggest doing some more research before using anything that might do more harm than good. just my:2cents:.

i had his price on my list but i had the core charge added to it. brought up quite a bit. vulcan has new Bosch rv's for $329 + $100 core charge. does any body know if there is any differance in the two? DAP vs Bosch.

pretty well got me priced out in 2011.

coulda been. i know the prez has got to fly with a milatary escort. i don't think the other folks fly in a 747. maybe an escort but not a 747. could be wrong though.

i have run straight #2 diesel fuel for all but 15k miles in mine with no problem. i have been in 5 to 10 below 0 to 105 above. 15k ago i started using 2 stroke for lubricity. i have had no fuel problems in the almost 10 years i have driven her.

if your head gasket is blown you could be loosing pressure thru the cylinder head. that is where the oil is getting into your radiator.

i read you followed the 2 cycle threads and it is a good thing for our vp44, i have been using it my self for about 15k. you also ought to check out the threads on fuel pressure and your vp44. the ddrp is better than the stock lift pump yours and mine came with, but still won't deliver the pressure and volume you need to keep that vp running and happy. there is alot of good info on the subject here. read up on it and form your own opinion. if you still have any questions post them here and you will get plenty of help and answers to your questions.

where can you buy a set of new rv275 for $250? i would be interested

i was crawling around under the wife's dakota this weekend doing service work and was amazed to see how tough the chassis is. Looks to be as good as our bigger trucks. The tires on this one are 265 70r which is near the same as i run on the 2500. since i travel alot i have had to let her take it to the shop for service. but due to current circumstances it looks like i will be getting to know this one alot better. good luck on your search.

i would whole heartedly agree with MM on that. What kind of Fass are you using?

my 02 held up just fine with the addition of the banks stinger plus and never slipped. they claim up to 75 rear wheel hp extra. never put it on a dyno to verify but there was definately more horsepower. mine is a six speed ho and maybe they put in a better clutch. i dont know. i do know i pull a trailer that weighs in at 13,500 and never slipped the clutch, even 6th gear. i never held back on the throttle except in 6th. i always tried to hold 6th at no more than half throttle. 1st thru 5th i let her rip and the cluthc never slipped.

the auto makers have been able to classify many vehicles as light trucks. the only one that comes to my mind is the PT cruiser. it was clssfied as a light truck a while back. if that can be classified a light truck god knows what else can be.

yes it is a restriction and with your pressure gauge bouncing around it would bring into question the accuracy of the gauge. the IP will beat a gauge or sending unit to death if you dont isolate it from the water hammer effect it produces.

welcome to the site. ther is alot of good info and people here. if you just go out and buy a 2011 you would have all the truck forums covered.

when it goes the only leg you will have to stand on will be the wrecker.

you dont have to spin them very much to set that code either. i have seen on mine fairly often.

nothing like living in a rv park when it comes time to work on your truck. if they would put a small garage at each one they could make a killing renting it out.

mine is doing the same thing. i am pretty sure that the basket rotated slightly when i rinstalled it and i just did not notice:doh:. i think the float is probably hitting in the corner of the tank and giving me a false reading. i use my trip odometer as much as my gauge anyway.i am just going to have to get used to it until i drop the tank again.

can the ecm the mech got from chrysler be programmed before it is put on the truck? the truck never went to chryler for programming. the nearest dealer was 40 miles away. he had an obdIII to do the vin #. the software from chrysler has got to be proprietery i would think.

the starter comes off pretty easy. 3 bolts, one is a little difficult the other two are easy. you could take your fuel filter cannister off and probably see just as well unless its real low. fuel canister is easy to move on my 02. not sure how differant the 01 is.