dripley

the AD II utilizes all of the plumbing in the basket. the return line from the pump is installed in the basket also. it requires drilling a hole and installing a fitting. --- Update to the previous post... i have always been able to run my tank dry with no problem befor and after the in tank pamp install. it might be crazy but i have always been one to run my tnak as fas as i can. i have put 35 gallons in my tank at fill on multiple occasions. ran out of fuel twice too:cry:. my fault. thats the only time i have had air sucking problems. i use the odometer as much as the fuel gauge when making trips. i have got nothing against the draw straw. but if what comes with the AD works good i would just as soon use it. the thought of having to do it twice is stuck in the back of my mind. do you see a benefit in using the drw straw over the stock fuel basket? does it flow the fuel any better? i might could see a benifit from the return from the pump being away from the fuel pickup. --- Update to the previous post... are you having problems with set up? getting fuel to the engine is no problem for me as it is now. if i go as intructed i will just be removing the intank pump and replumbing it plus installing the return line from the pump. just wondering if you see a benifit from the draw straw over using the fuel basket.

as i remember the instructions both the pickup and the return go into the basket. since my intank paump was added about 5 years ago i dont know wether the basket has a screen as it came with or when they installed the pump they used the new style basket. i gues i will find out when it comes out.

i leaving OK to head home wednesday. while there i am going to install my new ADII 165. it came with a kit to replace the intank lift pump i have grown to love so much. Has any one here replaced an in tank pump? if so is there anything i should watch out for? the instructions look pretty straight forward but you never know. my try getting it running with the tank on the ground and rehang once it is runnig right. any input would be appreciated.

camper package, 2 overload springs in the rear and a rear stabilizer bar per my widow sticker.$95 additional.

In NC we have to get a safety inspection once a year within 90 days of tag renewal or they wont renew your tag. it is usually not hard for me to find my way home in that period. once that is done i can renew my tag by mail.tag renewal is done yearly also. + you must pay your property tax on the vehicle or else no tag. every body has got to get their xhare i rekon.

i have been traveling for work for the past 30 years(the past 13 in an RV) and always had my vehicles registered in NC. i believe as long as you have residence in another state, which it sounds like you do, you should not have to register in the state you are working since it is only temporary. most of my travels have been on the east coast and as far west as OK, never made it to california. my jobs typically last 4 months but i have done more than one in the same state and stayed 8-12 months. i dont know anything about california though. the law might look at it differantly but i am not registering my vehicle in every state i work in. they already get income taxes and that is enough for me. not to mention when yu register a vehicle you must also get a title to the vehicle in the state you are in. that would be annoying and pricey. just my .

i have had my pump for one year and it works just fine. doesnot seem to run any better than the other 2. it did seem to run quieter, that could of been the 2 stroke because i started runnin it when i changed the pump the first went out under warranty the second never did go completely out, but it was acting funny and i decided to replace it before it left me stranded. the 2nd one actually survived a lift pump failure and crappy fuel pressure from the in tank pump dodge installed for me. at the time i did not know how critical fuel pressure was. i added a booster pump to get the pressure up. it is just barely satifactory now. i have an ADII 165 sitting at home waiting on me. it is more than i need,but i figured if i did any thing else fuel is not going to be a problem again.the BC pump is working fine, he replaces the computer with all the latest software along with the internals, and hopefully it will last a long time. i dont really know how much better it is than some of the other ones out there. it is pretty pricey also. some of the other guys are getting good service out of pumps in the $1000 range.Chip does know the vp44. just dont talk to him about the wires.

with such good teachers it is easy to do. after all do you remember who told me to cut my wires when i had ecm problems? it was not you.

i bought my vp from blue chip. chip was very good to deal with and will take time to talk to you if you need him. i have to agree with mike on the fuel pressure. i bought BC s low pressure warning light and it comes on at 5 psi. form all ihave read here and many other places that is to low and the damage is already being done at that pressure. lubricity is important but pressure is a must. follow what you read here and you will not be unhappy.

i guess that answers my question from the other thread. happy for you.

the is not hard to replace. read the instructions and take your time. i did mine in about 4.5 hours withan extra set of hands. it is not that difficult. you definately need to find out what is causing the problem. more than likely it is fuel pressure or lack there of i should say.

happy to here you got it fixed. what was the problem?

my light went out in about a half mile as i remember. i have had the p500 from spinning the rear wheels on more than one occasion. the code always went away.

my 2 bearings went out with the abs light coming on within 2 weeks of each other. your other one could be bad also. i am not sure how to test the sensor to see if it is bad. you could check your old sensor wire from the drivers side, check it for damage and if it is ok put it on the passanger side and see what happens. the only way i knew when the first one went on mine was the abs light coming on. the bearing gave no outward sign of being bad. it was intact and solid until i ripped it apart with the puller. it was completly dry though. i have had the p500 code before after spinng my tires on slick pavement or gravel. the code always went a way on its own. i dont know squat about the abs computer. someone else will have to chime in on that one.

:cheers:absolutely fantastic.congrats mr.flynn:cheers:

the suspense is killing me.

couple more days. go get em mr. flynn:hyper:

i smell a 2 truck operation coming on. hows the miles mr. flynn?

i knew somebody could post the links. i just learned how to post pictures yeaterday:lmao:.

the apps takes about an hour. does not take alot of skill.get a timbo its real easy. the vp took me 4.5 hours with an extra set of hands. blue chip diesel has a very good set of instructions, probably some here too. read them over before you do the work. they make a good pump but it is quite pricey:spend:. some of the other guys here might be a better help with cheaper source. you just need to be careful when you do it, take your time, if you drop the little keyway into the front cover the job will be quite a bit more time consuming. it is explained very well in the instructions. you used to be able to down load them at his web site. the lift pump is a differant story. you dont want to go back with factory. you need to upgrade. there are many good systems out there, raptor, fass, air dog, etc. just depends on what you are after. i have an AD to install on mine as soon as i get home. dont know how long it s going to take. it does not appear to be that hard to install. you absolutely need a fuel pressure gauge. thats probably what killed your pump. little or no fuel pressure to lubricate or cool your vp. an average skill level is all you need. just follow the instructions and ther are plenty of people here willing to answer your questions if you have problems.

my o6 dakota's temp light is coming on and off. my son replaced the tstat and no help. apparently the temp gauge is rising to midway on the gauge and the light is coming on within 45 seconds of starting the truck. the light will go back off but the gauge stays the same no matter what. no codes are being set. it sounds like a sensor to me but i thought it would set a code. any help is appreciated. 06 dakota 4X4 4.7 v8

the bottom mount next to the engine had a sleeve just like the oe bosch. the top did not have one just like the bosch.the new mounted up just like the old one. i just checked the top mount around the boss and i cant slip a piece of paper in between them. when i get the new bolt i will put the super torque on it. then i will just keep an eye on it. the whole thing is kindly wierd:cookoo: if you know what i mean. --- Update to the previous post... my wife is of nippon heritage, but she was made in japan. she was 1 1/2 years old when they ran her out to the states:lmao:.

i had to reuse the old bolt so i tried not to overtighten it due to its condition. i am going to buy a new one today and will put the super torque on it. the mount is pretty stout. might try to get a thin washer in ther too. had the alt tested when i bought the new one and it tested fine. bought it at Auto Zone. reman by nippondenso $95. limited life time warranty. i figured with a name like nippon it wasnt made in china. but i would be wrong. of course it was the cheapest one i could find. iam a little broke these days.

no bushing or washers. just abolt thru the mount, thru the alt, and into the bolt welded to the mount. i guess the hole in the alt could have been a little large and the engine vibration just slowly worked it thru.

might have to try that and keep as a spare. really did not know you could weld to that metal case. what is it made of?