dripley

It should turn off when you push the clutch in. Mine does but l never tried to figure out how it dos it. Mine does rev up a few hundred rpm before it disconnects. But normaly I hit the cacel button since l am slowing to down shift anyway.

I have a Banks vacuum operated. Pretty easy install but maybe not the best one out there. Worked trouble free for 6 years and then it wont open all the way. Have not been able to trouble shoot much. It did work fine up until then.

That assortment will come in handy down the road.

Like I said I have not done it but have seen a few pictures on here and thats how others have. Me, I just dropped the tank.

I will second the exhaust brake.

I have pulled my tank twice but dont remember having to jack up the truck to get it out. I am 4wd so I am sure that made a difference compared to 2wd. Dropped mine on the ground and pulled it out at doors. I have not tilted the bed but folks I have seen do it remove the front bolts then loosen the rear and raise up the front of the bed.

@Haggar thats how mine are done. I just EV1's. No special cord needed.

I can dim my Isspro's all the way to dark just like the dash.

You would have to be sure the scanner will read Dodge ABS codes. Many brands say the read them but not sure anyone has found one that does on our trucks. I maybe wrong lets see what others have to say.

Your old pump might pump it out. Worth a try. Or just tilt the bed up.

When my front wheel bearings went out many years ago and I replaced them, mine did the same as yours. But this last time 2 years ago it did not after replacing the bearings and rear sensor. The lights just went off about 2 months later.

He has an oil pressure sender in the filter housing and was looking for a place to move it to.

I put it in about 12 years ago but as I remember it was quite low as in 6 psi or so.

Mine was on for a few months. Replaced the front bearings and the rear sensor and the lights stayed on like yours. Then about 2 months later the lights went off. That was couple years ago and the brakes have worked fine sine. But it is still a mystery to me as to what fixed it.

I did say a few posts back it was straight thread the relied on an o ring to seal. Thats about all my memory was good for. The 1/4" was a guess. Thanks for the clarification though.

I remember this because I still have your plug waiting to go into mine if I ever get home long enough to do anything. If I am not mistaken the part you had to buy is what my oil pressure switch is connected to then screws into the block.

Air Dog makes a kit to replace the in tank pump. My 165 came with one back 9 years ago. It was only a 3/8" pick up and thats most likely why I see a 3 to 4 psi drop at WOT. But I still only see 15 to 16 psi for a low pressure so I dont worry about it. It also has both the pump and engine return lines in the basket with the pick up. Some folks think its a bad idea but I have not noticed any difference in how the trucks after the install.

My second was one I added when the intank pump was getting weak and it ran off of the oil pressure switch. That pump only ran after the engine started and built oil pressure the intank pump ran off of the ecm.

The plug I think is 1/4". Here is a picture of where the my switch is screwed in. It is just below the injector lines. Round with a red and black wire sticking out of it.

The delete has to stay. There is a hole in the block behind it. I ran two pumps on mine many years back. If the fass is responding to the key on and starter bump the in tank pump might not be connected to the ecm. Someone would have to have spliced into the OE pump harness to make both pumps respond. I guess thats possible but dont really know. The second pump I ran was operated by an oil pressure switch and did not respond to the key on and stater bump, it was independent of the ECM control.

I googled the part # and rock auto has it by dorman and saw a couple other places. All the mopar overstock places did not. Its worth a google.

There is a plug on the drivers side of the block about midway just aft of the VP that I have a oil pressure switch installed in. The plug looks like a small hex cap screw. It is not tapered and relies on an o ring to seal.

Learned about that one here from @Mopar1973Man and @dorkweed I believe. They were 2 very big proponents of the 2 stroke. That and good fuel pressure got me 277k out of my last VP.

The only drawback on using the tuner for gauges is if somethings happens with the tuner now you have no gauges. Happened to me when my banks tuner crapped out. Luckily I had a stand alone FP gauge. I added boost, egt, and trans temp after that. Got a good deal on 3 pack of gauges with a dash mount.

Fuel pressure gauge is a must. Even if you have good fuel pressure if the lift pump fails you wont know it until to late and loose your VP44/injection pump. Tranny temp is another for an auto trans. Then start adding 2 stroke oil to your fuel, 1 oz to the gallon. The ULSD is not what the VP was designed to run on. If fuel in your area has bio diesel blended with it at at least 2% you dont need it and if in doubt just add some anyway. You can loose a VP this way also due to the reduced lubricity of the ULSD. I ran a steering brace on mine for a good while. It failed and I removed it about 3 years ago. I just never noticed much difference with or without it. I do not plan on putting another on. The T steering will work with 16" rims but you do have to trim off a little of the tie rod ends so they will fit inside the wheel. Probably going that way my self when the existing Y steering wears out. And if you dont want to trim them, a set of 3rd gen wheels are not expensive or that hard to find. The comprable size tires in 17" are avout $25 more per tire, in my searches anyway. But after seeing what @Haggar posted, that would be a way around trimming. A tuner is a bit tricky. Just depends on the power virus. It is infectious. You have to go with what your heart and wallet tells you on that one. I am running the Edge Comp. I just put a new VP on mine so the pump is not tapped for warranty issues. I in essence have an EZ since I cant use level 4 or 5. I miss it. I would like to have a Quad but not for now. Thats my wallet talking.