dripley

Had to make the drive back to work today with a detour thru Charlotte NC and then Columbia SC. Both thru rush hour. The roads were not empty but drove thru both at 70 mph. Then I here on the news that the governor of GA ordered a one srep away from a shelter in place order. The cases of the virus are as strong as others are but they are not playing around with it. No gatherings of 10 or more people. So 10 men can work on the roof and 10 men can lay brick on the outside. The hard part is I need about 15 or so on the inside to move properly. We shall see how this goes.

Just filled up at a Quick Trip in Ga for $2.29. Most all other places here are in the $2.60 range. Not sure why that is. Just a few isolated pockets like that here. Almost SC prices.

I definiely would not consider 50's as large injectors, bigger than stock, yes, but not large. This is the statement he did not understand. Me neither for that matter. But I know little about the autos.

There should be another turbo you could put on to help clear the smoke. Thats out of my realm of knowledge. My hx is not up to it. Not bad on the rv's but the 50's were smokier. Still cleared it up but took a bit longer. Me I dont like smoke. The Quad is more complicated than the Comp. But plenty of help to work that part out. You just have to be willing to learn. Still on my Comp for now.

The heater has been getting a bit slow changing from heat to ac the past month or so. So today, 55 and raining out it decides it is staying in the AC mode. I figure maybe the stepper is going dont know that it might internal to the box. I put the heater treater part in it some years back so I dont think thats the problem. Any good way check that motor to see if its bad without pulling it?

Thats what Saudis are trying to do is push the us shale production out of the picture. They can afford to pump cheap crude for while where shale guys cant. I paid $2.25 in SC on the home last Friday. Did not pay attention to gas.

DAP sells up to 350hp injectors. How much bigger they get I dont know. I run RV275's at about 30 over on the HO engine and have run 50's. The 50's and the comp are very smokey for my taste so I went back to rv's. I you want to go bigger later do NOT get a comp, go for the quad. I wiil have to leave the other quetion to @Evan.

Have you tried monitoring your sensors while driving the truck? Such as APPS, MAP, or such? That might help point to failing sensor. Which scan tool did you buy? When my first MAP sensor was failing it acted similar and sometimes I got a code and other times not, 237 to be precise. Imcould see the sensor dropping out on my scanner.

I do believe if the VP was starved of fuel enough that putting it into gear killed the engine that the VP would have already crapped the bed. The VP is heavily reliant on fuel for lubrication and cooling. Upgrading from the carter is highly recomended just for the VP's sake. Do have a fuel pressure gauge? But i would add to this that manual trans trucks do have anti stall programing in the ECM that adds fuel when the idle starts to drop when the clutch is engaging and autos don't have this feature. Seems it would be good to have for this situation.

I dont know a thing about them other that seeing them on there site and whooooo are they pricey.

I landed it on the terminal the alternator used to be on.

Mine was on the alternator for years. Swapped it to the PDC after doing WT's ground mod. Just did not want the wire on the battery terminal. I remeber it beingmthe alternate method that AD recomended. But that is my memory at work.

The cable on mine broke about 3 years ago. I put new Mopar one on. I dont remrmber it being expensive though. I'll check see if I still have whrre I got it from. In a fairly quick google search and saw them for anywhere from $55 to a Mopar oe at a $112. The part # is 52058707. I remeber paying less than a hundred for mine and it was Mopar. But I have slept a few times since then. And not at a Holiday inn Express.

Scouts for the free rangers. Must be an op coming up.

Here is one that takes some getting used to. Most of the electrical system is negatively switched. You can have power to the socket and it still not work because the ground is not complete. You have probe the + and - in the socket. I would have to defer to those more knowlegable to explain that though. Help guys, a bit out of my league on this.

A. You dont have both most likley. The in tank pump was a Dodge solution to the block mounted pump. They both suck. B. Most likely. Test the existing lift pump pressure first. C. Most any 20 year old vehicle can be expensive at times. Haevy duty vehicles can be pricier.

Pump mught have failed completely. Main reason mOst all of us have FP gauges. A weak or failed lift pump=a failed or weakened VP. You could put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel and see if that. Wally world is fine. TCW3 ashless is what you are looking for.

If you dont have a FP gauge you could get test maybe from an auto parts store and check it.

I have seen some kits just dont know which ones are any good.

Check out his apps voltage above. It is out of range. 160.8v I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. So the pump isn’t dead yet? I feel like if I were to replace the lifter pump that it would save the VP pump long enough to squeeze a little bit more life out of It is possible a new lift might help and if you have the stock pump or in tank pump you need to replace it. Whether that will solve the problem is a gamble.

There are 2 pumps. One the VP and 2 the lft pump. The VP is the pricey one.you need to checkout DAP or Vulcan performance for a VP. They are still about $1000 but still much cheaper than most any one. The DDRP is a lift pump. Your main problem is the VP44 which is your injection pump. That being said your lift pump could easily be the reason your VP died. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

The 216 is a mechanical failure in the VP. Usually it is a lift pump failure that takes the VP with it from what l have heard. If you still have the stock lift pump on the block, I would replace it no matter what. They are not great pumps.

The 121 might explain the weird APPS voltage reading. The 216 most likely will explain your stutter. The vp is gone. Just replaced mine back on Thanksgiving with the same code.

Well l can only blame myself. One owner here. But l have fought a few gremlins.

Aint it the truth. Seems I can fix one electrical problem and 2 more pop up. Bremlin free for now though.