dripley

Welcome. It would be better for this to be in 2nd generation forum and not the 4th. Maybe @Mopar1973Man or @JAG1 can help with that. There is return line on all the 2nd gen motors from the head that returns excess fuel not used while the engine is running. Thats standard equipment. Alot of after market fuel systems add a return line from the pump either to the fuel basket or the filler neck. As far cold air intakes, unless you going major power up grades, i dont see any benefit. Very few members here have them with some pushing 500hp. The BHAF is filter most widely used here. It will fit right on to the existing intake tube. I have seen the little filters that go on the turbo but don't think much of them myself. I am sure there are other opinions on them. I am sure you will be hearing them soon.

You do that so you dont drop the shaft key into gears on a good motor. Timing is set by the key and the pump gear. It makes no differnce timing wise on what orientation the pump key is. It is mainly for ease of instalation. I pulled my last mistakenly at about 80* off of TDC. I did rotate the motor for reinstall. Pulling the timing cover is a lot of extra work. If you are using the pump on another motor you need the key. They are pump specific for timimg reasons. If it does drop into the old engine you can buy another. The keys are numbered and the key # should be on the pump data plate.

I figured if I put one on I would get a piece of pipe to remove the muffler and see how sounds. But again not high on the to do list.

I used a Banks 4" stainless and installed it in 2005. No power gain, and I did not have an EGT gauge prior to the install. It has held up very and shows no sign of any of it failing to date. Mine does have a flow thru muffler and sound great to my ears. Not so much trying to sell the Banks product over any others just the stainless mainly. There is some drone but not bad. Still think I might throw an FTE resonator on it one day, just not high on the list right now.

I like it too. Darn thing looks like a mini submarine. My wife would have to take one gallon to pee in if I had one those.

I undersrand what you are trying to do for the 1689 code. I checked a 1999 wiring diagram in the articles section here. According to it the wire should be yellow with a pink tracer on it. Is that by any chance the color of your wire? The wiring colors are not all the same for all the years. That wire in my 02 is supposed to be white. They do however do the same thing. I had an in tank pump for a while. They are not very good pumps. Mine only had about 5 psi of pressure. Always cranked just fine. It is also perfectly normal for the pressure to drop 50% during cranking. The ECM does that by design. While they are not good pumps there is no reason for it to cause hard starting. I have had 2 transfer pump failures on mine over the years and the truck continued to crank just fine with failed pumps. The VP will pull its own fuel but its not good for it. Have you bled the fuel sytem all the way to the cylinder head? Try opening 3 of the injector lines and crank the engine. If no fuel is coming out of the lines while cranking you still have air in the system, most likely from the filter change.

For one you dont have glow plugs. You have a pair of grid heaters at the base of the intake horn that heat incoming air. Two, if the fass is connected thru the factory harness and controlled by yhe ECM your pump will not be running with just the key on. You should only get a short prime of the pump, a second or less. Bump the starter, no engine start and it should run for 20 seconds or so. Unless your pump is wired to a key on hot it should not run constantly unless the engine is running. This is all based on the stock configuration of the pump control wiring. Any mods could change that. Did you install the FASS? It does sound like relay might be failing but thats a bit over my head. That might explain the voltage loss. There is always 12v power to the pump but it is negatively switched. If I am not mistaken you have test the voltage on the 2 pins and not just the hot to any ground. This gets a bit over my head at times but I am sure someone will be along to help clarify.

One of the better things I have added to mine that was not a necessity.

It is possible the white wire is not white in your truck. Check the pins the diagnostic calls out for and ignore the wire color. There are some small discrepancies in the wiring diagrams between the years. Not sure what you are speaking about changing a fuel filter and now the engine is hard to start unless the fuel system lost prime which can happen installing a dry filter. Try bumping the starter, no engine start, and the lift pump should run for 20 seconds or so. While the pump is running crack open the inlet to the VP and see if it is pushing fuel out. At least you will know the fuel system is primed. I have had that problem a couple times thru the years. When you first turn the key on does your WTS light come on? It should come on as soon as you turn the key. If it is warm out it will only light for a second so you need to be looking right at when you turn the. If it is not coming on leave the switch on and see if it comes on at all. If it does then try to start it and it should fire off. A raped ape is hardly a description of a stock 24v unless you have some other mods to get there. They are quite tame in stock trim. They will pull a house just not quickly.

I installed them on my truck that came with manual mirrors and it was all pug and play. The heated part will need an hvac switch that has the on off button. They can be had used very easily. I believe the truck has to be an SLT or better for the wiring to be there. Sounds like you are seeing what you need.

Trust me this s**t happens to all us in one way or another.

Get under your front end and have someone turn the wheels back and forth as you look for parts moving where they should not be. Tie rod ends, track bar, steering box play, anything. Then jack your front wheels up and check for play i. The ball joints or wheel bearings. Those are some big tires for a stock front end. If I am reading the numbers as tire size. Had the truck for long?

Well double dumb *** on me. Those are @Dieselfuture's pics. Did you just reuse the original pick up then?

That basket does not have any screens in it. Its the same basket my in tank pump came in. Matter of fact it has the red flapper in it that the pump pumped fuel over. The fuel pumped over it opened the flap and supposedly pull in additional fuel. At least per the AD intructions that came with mine. @niebs_22 what are the 3 lines into the bottom of the basket? Mine has 3, engine return, pump return, and fuel pick up. Yours does too but I believe you said your pump return was in the filler neck. And did yours have the intank pump in it? I cant for tgd life of me remember what the 3rd black is on mine. There is nothing to connect it to on the top Here is mine unmolested then taken apart. Dont have one of the finished product. There are screens on the in tank pump on the right side and an outlet on the left to blow the red flapper open. I removed the flapper. Both @JAG1 and @Dieselfuture bring up valid points. The big one in my mind is if it was not doing it before it most likely has to be something that was installed or disturbed duriing the mod.

I have seen and heard many medical expetts say washing your hands with soap and water is better than any anti bacterial hand sanitizer. We are using a water and bleach solution. 5% bleach to water on the job. The guys are using it too which surprised me a bit. I think the biggest problem right now is the fear of the unknown. It is contagious with no vaccine, and it does kill. But as mentioned above we know to what degree the infection rate compares to the death rate and may never know true nimbers. We have had a good while to study the previous ones. I have myself been thinking more about this virus along those lines since I am in the catagory that seems less able to fight it off. I need my income for another year or so but is it worth dying over? In that same breath though, the regular flu could do it too though ther are many treatments for it . I am just in that demographic. However, I am thankful to still be working. At work I am the leader, the problem solver, sometimes have to lay blame for mistakes even when its my fault and sometimes the freaking baby sitter. But it is what I get paid to do. Last time I checked I thought thats what we paid our elected officials to do. I am sick of seeing so many them just wanting to point fingers blame for the whole thing on anyone or thing but themselves. They need to put their differences aside a work together to fight this thing and get everyone back to work. There is no way you can prepare for the unkown before you know what it is. But yes somethings could have been done better but bad decsions are better than no decisions. I will stop rambling on now.

Sounds good.

If your new system checks out the retuen lines from the head and VP are the likely culprit. Follow the return line fromthe VP to behind the filter canister anf it joins a tee. Seeif its wet. The other lines goes to the back of the head. You will need a mirror to see it. There 2 sealing washers on the fitting and the rubber gets hard. The tee has compression grommets in it. Both a pain to get to. A leak at either can cause the hard starting you have. Any idea on how old your injectors are?

Definitely a problem that needs to be tixed for sure. Just saying the pump style makes no difference, thats all.

An air leak is just that. Makes no difference whether you have a mechanical or electric. The problem can affect both systems equally. I run an electric pump because thats what was available when I put mine on.

Sounds like you an air leak causing the fuel system to loose prime. Sounds as if yours is a slow leak. It is possible you wont see any out ward leaking. Air can enter easier than fuel escapes. If you have checked the supply dont firget the return lines. They can cause same issue. Next time it does it try running your stock lift pump for a cycle or 2. It has worked in the past for me while experiencing the same issue

I have never looked from a changing aspect other than when the VP was off thinking that had to be a pain change. Just couldn't bring myself to change while the pump was off since it still worked.

You're welcome GW. Mike knows more about these things than I so I am happy he jumped in.

It might be strange but it is true. Seen a few folks here with that very issue including @Mopar1973Man. The buzzing I think is a sign the module has problem, but others would know better than I.

If it is just an inexpensive parts store scanner it is not going to read ABS codes. Even some of the pricier ones will read read the ABS any many vehicles but not ours. With the buzzing I am thinking there is a problem with the module. But lets see what others say.

One of the things folks that have them brag about is fuel pressure going with rpm. There is part in the system the gets debris that causes the drop. At least from what I have read. Definitely no expert on them.