Junkman

I recently installed a newly reman MWFI pump and it threw a 0216. MWFI had said that I had gas in the fuel & that was the reason for the initial failure. So...after draining the tank & refilling I get the 0216. I cleared it and got it again. I loaded the fuel with 2-stroke ~ 2 oz per gal, cleared codes and they haven't come back. Perhaps the new pump with dry fuel was a little sticky. I haven't had a pump apart so haven't seen what the mechanics are. I know the new pump threw mechanical injection timing code. I know I put extra lube in. I know (at least to last time I scanned) that the 0216 hasn't come back.The OP said he hasn't run any lube and is low on cash. I suggest 2 qts of 2-stroke (double the normal dosage) in the 1st tank then running 1 oz/gallon of fuel after that. Clear codes & see what you have. Clear them again if necessary & retest. You only have the price of the 2-stroke to lose.After reading the lubricity study, I believe that lube is necessary and that most of the easily available additives don't help in this VP application ie PS, Howse etal. (read the study & form your own conclusions.)

Look up Hawk pads. I forgot the details but they have a set that stops and doesn't chew up the rotor making it easy to pad slap & not change rotor.

I move the orphaned battery to the boat. I always buy the longest free replacement battery that I can find & note the 1 yr incremental dates in my work calendar. Sometimes It will be degrading & I can get the replacement for free. Keeping a trickle charger on any battery that sits (ie boat during the winter) extends the life. edit: deleted old irrelevant crap so someone doesn't take it as truth.

I also have a lifetime Cardone going bad. My intent is to exchange for another Cardone which will be sold to get some of my $$ back. I'll send the crappy AGR core that is currently laying on the shop floor to Redhead and hopefully have good steering again.

I went with Thuren. It is adjustable and rebuildable. Give Don a call. He makes good products & has a lot of suspension & front end knowledge.

My Yokohama Geolander ATs drive like a dream at 65# all around. They wander all over the place at 80psi. It is so bad that driving is dangerous. So...anyone with wander, try dropping tire pressure first. 80 is above specs anyway.

http://www.obdtester.com/obdtester-features $59 or $99 for the upgraded version. .

Anyone seen RELIABLE information on adding acetone to diesel fuel? There is a lot of regurgitation around but I didn't see and good data.

Blake, your truck looks like mine only with a short bed & less dents.

Mine have been outstanding needing very little weight to balance them. Don't put up with yours if the tires are at fault. Tires are expensive even if you beat the retailer down on price. Years ago, I fought steering on a 78 Datsun Z that pulled to the right. The installer blamed it on the suspension. I was to the point of going aftermarket suspension when the tires wore out. End of problem. I decided then that I wouldn't keep tires that didn't perform as promised. The store has the ability to make it right but may need inducement to act.

Yokohama Geolander AT. They never need much to balance them and are wearing well. Ride is smooth. Note: tire pressure should be ~65#. Any higher (at least when new) and they wander like you have no caster. I bought at Discount Tire because Discount price matches tire price on web sites. Find the tire you want, find cheapest tire price & make Discount match. You add install, tax & you're out the door with lifetime balance.

I have a friend with a diesel parts business complete with warehouse full of VPs, injectors, fuel systems etc. I've been trying to talk him into carrying the dash (not cap). He doesn't need to add more inventory but would negotiate with the manufacturer if we had some pre-sales. Does anyone know off hand where we can run a group buy? The sites I'm on don't allow it (some used to). Shoot me a pm.

I'm fighting this on an 85 Mercedes diesel. New front calipers & master cylinder. I expected an hour to do the master since it isn't rocket science. Have literally run gallons of fluid through the system. Used the old school pump & hold then release bleeder, gravity bleed, & pressure bleed. Pedal is still soft. I thought MC was bad (original equipment NEW Mercedes MC), replaced with another new MC & have the same problems. My next strategy is to power bleed where the lines come out of the ABS & go to the calipers. I figure it is only a short distance between the MC & ABS. Once I know that is clear through the ABS, I'll reconnect the lines & bleed at the calipers.

Only partially correct - ie the price quote may be correct. Autozone starters are historically problematic. You are better off to check your contacts while it is off and replace them. Mine were shot at 110,000 mi & starter is going fine at 156,000. Only the contacts in the solenoid have been replaced. Cost was <$35. Time only slightly more than R&R.

You are ~ 1/2 way to paying for an AirDog. If you think it takes negotiations with the spouse now, wait until you have to replace your LP (again). Negotiate with the vendors. They will come off the stated price.

There is some software that you can data log all of the sensors while driving. I'm researching & am going to buy an obd2 cable with usb to my laptop. You might play with that. Just google & please post if what results you have. Did Cummins charge for not fixing anything?

OBD2 cords with usb connectors are cheap. Linux & some Linux obd2 software is free. I expect that much more information is available than simple list of codes. I'm hoping to take some of the guess work out of the diagnosis & change from guessing to well...diagnosing.

I saw this but opted for Ubuntu instead of Vista on my laptop. Am in the OS learning curve. http://www.obd-2.com/#download There is lots of linux related conversation also. Just wondering what others here have done. This looks interesting also. http://www.scantool.net/software/scanxl-std.html

You can borrow a scanner at any of the parts stores. Begin there.

Apparently that is the source. I called them. They have an injection molding plant. They start bidding on fleabay @ ~$269, sell retail @ the buy it now price and also wholesale. I've thought about instigating a group buy but the sites I frequent really aren't interested. A friend of mine who owned a plant said the mold is the most expensive part of the process and once the mold is paid for, you're into the profit. Perhaps someone knows a vendor who would be interested in brokering the deal?? Send me a pm.

I was able to remove an aftermarket alarm years ago by finding wiring info on line. Aftermarket add ons are a good place to start. Also, check for codes. If the alarm isn't the culprit and if "exactly 1 hour" is coincidence, it may be the crank position sensor. My CKP was bad with no codes and intermittent crank with no start. CKP failed twice. st 2 parts were Cummins, current install is lifetime aftermarket from McParts.

You can measure the bolt diameter. Use an open end wrench if you don't have a micrometer. I expect that the entire engine is metric. A thread gauge will tell you the pitch. Cheap micrometer & tap/die set are some of the most useful tools you'll buy.