Junkman

There have been several that have had warranties taken care of by documenting when it was purchased. I've seen posts where one of the AD people said that they do everything possible to warranty pumps. I'm going to look for my paperwork, confirm exactly what the warranty is & then confirm that they received my form. I expect that they will cover your pump if you produce proof of purchase. They would get worn out in court if they tried to explain that they ONLY warranty IF the person returned the card (which may not have even been in the package) AND IF AirDog happens to have good enough records to be able to FIND the card.

Will make a decision later this week & pull it apart sometime next. I've had a string of dashes to replace lately. It is becoming tiring. I always get done but get a least a little pita. Ram heater has the sweet smell of coolant. Yuck!!!

Mike, Nice lookin dash. Wanna trade? How come yours isn't cracked? FWIW, Mercedes recommends Aerospace 303 for those types of applications. I bought some for my 85 SD dash. We'll see how it holds up. For anyone that has leather seats, google leather seat color change. You'll find some interesting repair & care reading.

If you're talking about the trim around the instrument cluster, that should be available in the yard. Several years both diesel & gassers fit. I also saw them more readily available than dash replacements. There are lots of dash caps (and bezels) but few dashes. Regardless, it would be almost free in a yard if you have the time to look (which makes it not free).

A) Take a little less so you don't have to get a salvage title. Salvage is usually determined by percentage of total value (ie 50% in some states). A $3000 car can be totaled by a little insignificant bump. Pay a paintless dent guy to straighten it out. Dents in bed can be hidden by a liner.B) Take your goodies off, give truck ti insurance carrier, get another truck. (Good excuse to get rid of the VP.

$250 would be a deal. Caps are $100+, Genos wants ~$300 for a dash then you have the labor. For $250, I'd have them do the heater core when they're there.

Go with the Hawk pads. They will wear instead of wearing your rotor. Then you can just pad slap it next time. & not mess with rotors. dieselperformanceparts in Nashville will hook you up.

My dash is cracked (nothing new I know) AND I was going to replace with the one Geno sells BUT, Genos has them on back order AND I need to replace my heater core before the weather turns cold. Genos Link: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DRD8-1 Geno is keeping the manufacturer a secret. wholesalemopar.com wants ~ $500 delivered. What other sources are there for a dash, not a dash cap?

How does adding say 100HP injectors to the box affect things?

Who gave you a 2 yr warranty? The best I could find was 1yr. Where did you get the pump?

I went with Yokohama Geolander ATs. At 20,000 mi they show very little wear. I've watched when having them balanced and they never take much weight & have always rolled smooth. I may try something like Dynabead next time so I don't have to bother rebalancing at all.FWIW, Discount tire price matches web prices. Some web dealers sell near cost & make $$ on shipping. You should be able to get a good deal using web pricing.

I have them & they are a pita to get someone to set them correctly. Only buy adjustable ball joints if you can't get the camber in specs OR if you have another reason to set camber different from normal.

Again, my 00 did exactly as you are describing. It cranked, fuel was getting to the VP but not to injectors. No codes. IF your 99 has a CKP, change it before looking at the ecm. The 01 used the CMP only but before that, engine had both CMP and CKP. I'm not sure when the change was made other than 01 deleted CKP. Pull the starter. Leave it connected to the wiring & set on rail. Remove CKP carefully so you don't break it off. Install CKP, reinstall starter & see if it will start. Many fewer dollars than a puter.

Install a known good CKP. My 00 did that twice. 2nd replacement I went with lifetime aftermarket because the Cummins part lasted so short a time I thought "it couldn't possible be out again". It was. I normally don't throw parts but no start & no codes was CKP twice for me. Post back if that fixes it.

Anyone doing business over the web with people he doesn't know ought to make it a point to be available or find another line of work - especially when his target market is likely to have questions. P Poor service negates any value his parts can have.

Glad to see your truck has some dirt & dings. What did you pay for the round rubber?Do those bugs run? How rusty are they? What year - 72?

I hate how my dash is cracked. I really don't like rugs & considered a cap until looking at a 95 with the entire top of the dash gone. A cap wouldn't have anything to stick to or would come off anyway when the dash finished falling apart. Does anyone know the manufacturer of Genos dashes? I'd like to do some more research. Warranty doesn't mean much if you have to keep changing the part. My heater core needs changing before winter & I'd like to deal with the dash at the same time - as soon as the 85 Mercedes 300SD gets installed & the climate control heats.Info on good replacement dashes would be good to list.

The only time I see 20 on the over head is after a reset when it's cycling down to 16. Air Filter is stock but clean. Fuel filter(s) on the AirDog are new within 1000 mi. I have a lifetime Firestone alignment. Toe is 0, caster about 3*. Haven't had the wheels off the ground for a while. Will check those & spin drive shafts when I have tires balanced. Can't speak to injectors. PO replaced entire exhaust before I bought it ~ 40,000 mi ago. Anything else on the engine?

I can drive nice (when I'm feeling cheap). I've never seen consistently above 16 but think that's low even with 410 gears. 20 would be outstanding. The savings might even pay for some more toys. Brakes aren't dragging - rears probably need to be adjusted tighter since I've ignored them for a while.What are the maintenance & adjustment items?

My mileage is normally ~16 all around hwy & some city. Yesterday @ 70mph on the interstate the overhead said 16.4. Overhead on my truck is usually close to hand calculated. Regardless. I want more. I have a new SO MWFI VP.Let's start with making sure we're up to spec then mod. What get out of adjustment or wears & reduces mileage? Will start by checking:adjusting valves, cleaning IAT & MAP sensors

Do the old credit card dispute thing if you paid by CC. Just call & fill out a form saying you never received your stuff.

We had a guy here that sold blems. After buying from him for the last 30 yrs, he retired. Bummer. The mercedes battery was $20 & lasted 3 years. Its replacement was $150.I bought a couple of 3 yr free replacements from AZone for the Ram. It wasn't a deal but they're installed & working without a problem. Don't make batteries more complicated than necessary. Too bad the rest of the truck isn't as easy.

Someone posted putting aluminum foil on the alternator wires. I didn't pay attention because that's not a problem I've run into. VP is a pretty expensive part to throw at a problem without assurance that it will fix the thing.

Find a performance shop that does a lot of engine swaps. They have all sorts of parts lying around. Next choice is a junk yard.

These trucks aren't cheap. I'd just keep an eye out for whatever I wanted 4x4, NV4500 or whatever & put the cash into fuel, vp, steering, gauges, chip, injectors. You need that as a minimum on any 24V & would spend that much getting the tranny only - unless you get a parts truck for (almost) free.