bjytech

Here for the past week and a half diesel has been stuck at 3.95 and gas has been hanging around in the 3.80's.

Okay so I need some help with my Dad's 91 D350. In the past year we've replaced: (in no particular order) both front calipers, front soft lines, shoes all around and a new brake booster since the old one went out. The brakes work like they should except for the fact that you just barley press down on the brake pedal and the wheels lockup so I'm not sure whats causing it. Any help/advise is greatly appreciated and I'll do my best to get you any additional info you might want.

I know what you mean, I use gas buddy and I'm about the only one in my area that ever reports diesel prices.

Thats Crazy:stuned:

Right now I have a dual boot of Windows 7 and Ubuntu, and the main reason I even have windows is so I can play all my PC games. That being said I've installed and tried many distros of linux in my search for the one that best suites me. I've found that Ubuntu is my favorite simply because it just works, and if you want to install a program they made it super easy compared to some of the other distros that I've tried, all you have to do for most software is just search for it in the built in "add/remove" programs menu and click install. Quick and easy, just how I like my computers

If you can't find anything at a junk yard you could probably get in touch with one of these guys over on cumminsforum that are parting out trucks. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-2nd-gen-all-products/390251-95-dodge-part-out.html http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-2nd-gen-all-products/309634-parting-out-1995-ram-2500-cummins-4wd.html

To go along with Bryan's post, My dad has one of the 2000 watt Honda generators that he linked to and its been a great little generator for us. We mainly use it when out on jobs building barns where no electric outlet is available to us. The 2000 watt generator runs a 14 amp circular saw great, and it also runs our small electric air compressor too, although I can't say that we've had it running both the air compressor and saw at the same time. If you do get one of honda generators like that, you need to make sure you have the vent switch that's on the top of the gas cap switched the right way while you run it, other wise it will die after running for awhile because of the vacuum created in the tank. we've had that happen to us a few times

I did a little checking about the part and it seems that its just about impossible to find since it very rarely goes wrong, so I'm guessing your best bet would to see if you can get one from a junk yard if you can find one at a junk yard, then you can probably just get/replace the sensor if it just screws out like it looks like it does.

Looking at my Haynes manual it looks like you have to replace the whole combination valve unit. that sensor is called the pressure differential switch.

Looks like there's quite a few Ohio guys here, I'm from NE Ohio.

Thanks for the link, helps me alot. As for the over boost triping the CEL I don't have to worry about it since I have a 12v.

I checked and cleaned the screen on the fuel heater but I didn't replace the fuel filter yet because I didn't have the money on me to get one when I picked up the needle valve, but its time for a oil change and new fuel filter so I'll do them at the same time. This morning I went out to check some things and found out that yesterday I was making that 30psi of boost with the wastegate doing whatever it wanted because the wire slipped off it, so I'll have to put the wire back on and fix it so it doesn't come off and see what I get.

OK so another update. Saturday I got the new overflow valve from LarryB and installed it then I cleaned the pre-filter screen and then re-wired my wastegate shut again getting the wire as tight as I could. Now I see up to about 30psi boost and fuel pressure at WOT is 21psi. It drives almost like a different truck now :thumb1:But I get one thing fixed and theres 3 more possible things to fix now :duh:While re-wireing my wastegate I found that my head gasket is leaking a little coolant out above the water pump/behind the alternator so that needs to be fixed and my left front wheel bearing seems to be squeaking along with another noise that I think seems to be coming from either my throwout bearing or the pilot bearing... theres always something

Haha they always do something good.

Ok so last night I ordered a new overflow valve. To get me by till I get the new valve I took my overflow valve apart and stretched the spring to about 15mm and put it back together. I was then seeing about 28psi at idle and the overflow valve seemed to be popping open at about 36psi. After driving it today though its gone down to 25psi at idle and popping open at about 33psi so according to that drop after just driving it for a few hours today its just a temporary fix but it will do till the new valve comes. When accelerating hard in 4th once I hit about 1500rpm I'm making about 15psi boost then it shoots up pretty fast to around 25psi then it just kinda dies out so I'm not sure whats going on I'll have to check my wastegate again and make sure its not opening any under the exhaust pressures. I did notice however that the truck doesn't seem to work as hard as it used to going up hills.

Ok Napa had the needle valve in today so I got my fuel pressure gauge install and at idle (about 650RPM for me) I have 13/14psi and the highest I could get it is was 22psi, so then I clamped the return line and it went up to about 30psi at idle so I guess I need to order a new overflow valve.

On my Dad's 91 Non-intercooled truck its got 2 bolts on it, just like the rest.

The turbo was one of the first things that I checked and it spins nice and no play in the shaft. I think now I may be a fuel problem. I didnt get the needle valve that I need to hook my fuel pressure sender up today because for some reason napa didn't get it in their delivery. but tonight while driving the truck I just let it have it in 4th and it smoked up till 2000RPM then it starts to go into a haze then close to 2300RPM it doesn't smoke at all. Hopefully when I go into town tomorrow napa will have the valve and I'll have pickup a fuel filter too, always good to have one on hand anyway.

I'm running with no fuel plate and the AFC is gutted now too. I can make it smoke anytime I want since I gutted the AFC. Later today my needle valve is supposed to be in at Napa so once I get that I'll be able to install it and check my fuel pressure. about a year ago when I had some work done on the truck they checked the fuel pressure and it was at 17psi at idle and they said it was ok so I just left it.

My waste gate is wired shut so if I understand the boost elbows function correctly its irrelevant to me.

I checked around the grid heaters but I didn't really check the plate on top of the intake so I'll have to do that when I get a chance. My waste gate is wired close. When I got the truck the waste gate articulator was stuck open so I just got rid of it and ran with the waste gate mostly closed till I got the gauges a few weeks ago, then I made sure it was closed completely.

I'll start this out by saying that the other week I installed gauges (Boost and EGT). I was told that for my truck with whats done to it I should be able to make 35psi boost easy but the most I've seen is 28psi and that was accelerating up a hill giving it all its got in 4th gear. So I decided to check for boost leaks. Tonight I did a pressure check at 6psi and all the intercooler boots and everything seemed fine. Then I noticed the oil dipstick was hissing a little so I take it out and the air is somehow leaking in and coming out there. Would this happen because I did the pressure check wrong? Are you supposed to block off the one end of the intake when you check it? Is this happening simply because intake valves are open? Or could there be some other cause?I may sound a bit stupid... but hey, there's no stupid question right? A guys gotta learn sometime.All your advice will be much appreciated!Also one more thing if anyone knows. On the gauge there is an orange wire for the dimmer, but the instructions don't tell you what to hook it up to for it to work. So if anyone could tell me where to hook it up to that would be great.Kinda a long post but hopefully everything is clear for you guys, if not just ask what you want to know.

I'm pretty sure that the key trick doesn't work for any 1st gens, I know it doesn't work on my Dads 91.

To me is sounds like its not getting enough power to run the trailer brakes ramped up to 8, so maybe theres a wire thats not tight, corroded wire or something. that would be my best guess.

A while back we had a similar problem with our 98 Dodge caravan, it threw some code about ECM to PCM communication problem or something like that. Original they thought that one of the computers had gone bad but after replacing it the problem still happened so then they traced the problem down to the actual wiring harness that goes between the 2 computers.I don't know if any of this might apply to the Dakota too but thats the experience I've had with a problem that had symptoms like what you described.