bjytech

You can replace the valve, it's just a schrader valve like on tires only bigger.

Since the injectors were just replaced I would re-check the injector hold downs and make sure they are up to torque, my thinking is something isn't quite tight enough when cold but as things get warm everything expands and seats properly.

These are at the flywheel numbers

Today Cummins announced that they are making a 5.0L V8 turbo diesel with 300hp and 500ft.lb. of torque for use in the next gen Nissan Titan. http://cumminsengines.com/cummins-5L-V8-turbo-diesel

Sounds like your clutch is starting to slip

Just take the vent hose off at the axle and make sure you can blow through the hose and then stick a wire or anything small enough down through the hole in the axle tube to make sure its not blocked. If it was plugged you can then wipe off the leaked oil around the pinion and see if it dries up. On my old truck I had got a new pinion seal to put on it but then checked the axle vent and found it was clogged, so I unclogged it and the pinion leak went away and was still dry the day I sold it a couple years later.

Have you checked to make sure the axle vent isn't clogged? A clogged axle vent is the #1 reason that the pinon seal leaks

Does this help you any? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/513343-shift-kit-install.html#post5298770

It should use a 194 bulb with a T10 socket.

At work when we get a truck with a wheel stuck to the hub we douse it in BG in-force and then wail on the inside of the tire with a sledge and turn the wheel every hit or two till it comes loose. They can be a real pain sometimes, on one milk truck it took us about an hour just to get the inside dual off the hub giving it everything we had.

Yep 3rd low.

I actually left the hole at about 20psi then saw 40psi going down the track (more than I wanted to see on the stock turbo) As for power mods with what I have done I'm making close to 350hp and 750ft.lb. of torque (that is if the dyno feature of the OBDII app on my phone is as accurate as they claim it is.) Any how it's enough power that I was able to really light up the stock clutch in 4th and 5th gears if I put the skinny pedal down.

Holmes county is just south of Wooster if you know where that is, or close to an hour south west of Canton. The OSTPA guys were here Friday night pulling with the tractors, 4x4's, and semis.

Decided to enter my truck in the open truck pull at the local fair today and pulled 205.68ft and placed 3rd in a class of 8 "work stock" diesels. It was my first time pulling and it was a lot of fun, I probably looked like this when I got out of my truck at he end.

Just some silicone heater hose or even regular heater hose will work fine to replace that line.

Welcome to the site Steve

Randy is right, the starters are the same and as for the spacer its only used on trucks with the 6 speed manual transmission.

Heres what info I found on your particular pump. First off it seems its a 175HP pump going off the last 3 numbers of the serial number 0402736906 Heres a breakdown of the injection pump number PES6P120A120RS7416 PE - inline pump S - with mounting flange 6 - 6 plungers P - Bosch P type pump 120 - 12mm diameter plungers A - design code 1 - without fuel lift pump 2 - governor on right side 0 - without automatic timing advance unit R - clockwise rotation S7416 - design code (note the 7 means its a 7000 series pump) And heres a breakdown on the governor number RQV400 1250PA1060-4K R - governor Q - transverse spring V - variable speed governor 400 - minimum speed (idle) (note pump speed is half engine speed for 4 cycle engine) 1250 - maximum speed P - Bosch P type injection pump A - modification letter 1060 - type code 4 - suffix K - torque matching by characteristic 392 8146 0005 Then this last number I'm guessing is the serial number for the governor but I can't tell you anything about that.

I can't tell you much about driving the truck since I only ever get to the high side on test drives after a trans rebuild but at work we have a 86' peterbilt milk truck with the 400 big cam and a eaton 9 speed that we use as a backup truck in case one of the other milk trucks go down.

The only difference you will see is lower Max boost pressure.

Since every thing is all new the clutch fork could be in the wrong way and thus not releasing the clutch enough, it's a easy mistake to make for anyone who hasn't worked on these trannys much.

The math checks out for doing dually's by dividing by 4. The reason it seems to come up with such low numbers is because the tire's weight carrying capacity across the axle is greater than what the truck is rated for. For example with BFG T/A KO's in 245/75/R16 the ratings are 3042lbs@80psi single, 2778lbs@80psi dual.so in the dual application across the axle the tires are rated to handle a max weight of 11,112lbs but the truck axle rating is only at 7500lbs.Still though I wouldn't feel comfortable running 20psi in the tires.Also I updated my program to get both the single and dual weight ratings for the tires in the dual wheel mode.

Heres the python file that should run in ubuntu. all you should have to do is click it and run in terminal. http://db.tt/TKWKowif edit1: Just realized a flaw in my program, its only accounting for 2 tires across a axle at the moment. edit2: Just updated the files to do both single rear wheel and dual rear wheel vehicles.

Its been a bit of a lazy morning for me so I saw this and decided to make a little program up just for fun to do the calculations going by your formula. http://db.tt/FN8qKVC4

Glad you were able to find a spacer at Wooster diesel