bjytech

Thats great! It gave me goose bumps around the 4:50 mark

I've never timed a pump like you are doing it so I cant really help with #1 but for #2 I use brakleen and #3 I put the bolt nearest the top for the puller in the gear and lift the gear up off the shaft and spray it good, I've done it like this a few times and never had the timing slip.

I've just got the stock hx35 in my truck right now, one day hopefully I can upgrade to a "stock appearing" 62mm turbo

Almost sounds like you are having the same problem I had a while back, no power and after 1/4 throttle or so the pedal was almost like it hit a wall, for me it turned out that my AFC foot wasn't moving at all. I just pulled the AFC foot out and have been running like that ever since, someday I imagine I'll fix my AFC but where my truck is now I like it better without it. Also on a side not I just noticed the AFC definition in the forum software is off, AFC actually stands for aneroid fuel control.

Hope you get everything worked out, Wish I could help but I lack the equipment you need and have to much going on here.

I used to have a 94 dodge that got the death wobble and everything checked out tight on it so I replaced the steering stabilizer and never had anymore problems with death wobble after that. But like Seth said what works on one truck for death wobble may not work on the next.

The 4wd trucks use a completely different steering setup than the 2wd truck use. I tried to find some photos to show the setups side by side but I can't seem to find a good one of the 2wd setup but anyways, here is what I did find. First is the 4wd setup: Now on to the 2wd setup, look behind/below the sway bar and you'll see the bar for the steering. 2wd trucks also have a idler arm where the 4wd trucks don't. The biggest problem with trying to run a 4wd steering setup on a 2wd truck I see would come from the solid axle vs. independent suspension. The solid tie rod bar from a 4wd truck if put on a 2wd truck (if it would even fit) would pull and push the toe constantly while driving down the road making for dangerous driving conditions, not to mention bad tire wear.

Both those kits are for just the 4wd trucks, I don't know of any similar kits for the 2wd trucks.

I use this filter wrench set, it has pins that hold the bands to the handle so you can throw the band around the filter and then attach it to the handle if you need to. I did notice that the price seems to have doubled since I bought the set though, or maybe I got it on sale...

most autoparts stores don't carry them but if you have a truck parts place by you they should stock them.

The only 4 hole injector I know of for the 12v is a marine injector so I don't think it would have the correct spray pattern to get a good clean burn in your truck. As for SAC or VCO they say VCO injectors run a bit cleaner than SAC but I don't know if it's really that big of a difference or not.

I know of a place that makes 7 hole 12v injectors but they are made for high horse and racing/pulling applications.

They should be 5 hole injectors for the 12v, I believe what BD calls a +40hp injectors for the auto trucks is a 5x0.010 injector (same as the stock injector in a 215hp 12v) When I make the upgrade to bigger injectors I'm planing on getting them from DAP since I know they build good injectors, and they sell them for a reasonable price $355(plus core) for a set of 5x0.012 injectors (+90hp)

I haven't seen any scanner options for semi truck that are affordable enough for an individual to really justify owning. Where I work we have mostly Cummins ISX engine in our trucks so we have insite on a laptop but that has a yearly subscription that costs around $500 a year plus its another $600 or so for the inline 6 interface box/cables. one nice thing though with insite is it comes with a foult code reader standalone program that will pull codes off any engine/data system on the truck using the J1939 or J1708 interfaces.

From what I understand of the valet switch system that is out for the 12v trucks it would probably limit the fuel to much for the use you want.

When I whent from the stock 3" exhaust to the 4" turbo back system I have on now I saw around a 200° drop in EGT's so it does help.

I'm not sure on the PCM but from what I've read on the subject you would need the 98 12v engine harness as its different from the 94-97 engine harness.

With what I have done to my truck I'm sitting right around 360HP and 800ft.lb of torque, only real upgraded part I'm running is my clutch since once I ground/moved my plate I could slip the stock clutch at will. Right now I'm running with no AFC but thats mainly because the diaphragm in it got a hole so I wasn't getting full fuel so I just pulled the arm out of the AFC so I could get full fuel again. It doesn't say it in my sig but my plate is basically a #100 plate and I'm running the stock 215 injectors. I also had a boost elbow on previously and removed it because it was building to much boost for the hx35 and even without it I can still hit 40psi easily with the wastegate working how it should.

First thing that comes to my mind other than heat shrink is liquid electrical tape.

Just now saw the second post full of pictures and I see what you mean about the vanes not going in like they should but I've got nothing. I'm really scratching my head as to how that could happen now Are any of the vane slots messed up/ have debris in them? parts put on that turbo in the past from another turbo?

All I can think of is what a nightmare the EGR cooler on that cm870 being filled with that stuff must be, I don't think it ever would come clean.

Short of something going through the turbo or extreme amounts of heat I don't see how that could get damaged (if I'm my thinking of what damage you described is right). The only trouble with that part of the VGT turbos I've seen is the VGT ring getting all carboned up and seizing, had that happen to a HE551 on a ISX at work.

I like using tapatalk better than the mobile site since tapatalk seems to run better than the browsers do on my phone, plus I get notifications through tapatalk if someone replies to a thread I participated in.

What sensors are you looking for the PID's for? I have torque pro and so far its picked up on all the sensors in the vehicles I've hooked it up to, it even has all the custom PID's in it for the powerstrokes.

I second What Wild and Free said, whenever I need to replace my stock track bar I'm going with this kit http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/2ndgento3rdg.html