bjytech

About 2 weeks ago diesel was $3.89/gal then in just 48 hours it jumped up to $4.49/gal and is still there for some reason.

I'll keep my eye out, I tend to notice all the cummins running around my area

BD power sells a kit for switching over to a adjustable 3rd gen style track bar for the 2nd gen 4x4 trucks http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/180P

It would be a slight upgrade(hx35 is a 56/60/12; he351cw is a 60/60/9), although I believe you would need a new exhaust down pipe and plumbing from the turbo to intercooler.

OBDII port is where you plug a computer in for diagnostics such as reading check engine light codes and more.

I leave my oil level in my axle's about 3/4 inch below the fill plug, they always seem to leak a little when filled to the brim but not when its about 3/4 inch low.

its normal for it to foam up some when its been running, I'm guessing you had been driving your truck soon before you pulled the diff cover off?

I believe this link should take you right to where you want to go. CLICK HERE To get there manual you would click one of the links in the drop down menu where your username is on the top right of the website.

None of that would have anything to do with this problem on a 12v, TPS is only used for the auto trans and there is no APPS. Maybe the throttle cable/linkage has a spot where it sticks little, you could try spraying it up with some lube and see if that helps at all.

When the guy I work with put the 370 marine injectors (5x0.012@155°) in his truck it did the same thing yours is doing when it was cold out. he was running stock timing as well.

It was a cold one here today started the day out at -9°F and hit a high of 4°F. I ended up spending most all of my day at work outside getting trucks running and brakes unfroze. Its only supposed to drop down to 1° tonight and be up to around 21°F tomorrow so hopefully everything should start fine then although most everything that's at the yard now is inside.

I have one of the glowshift 3-in-1 gauges and its been working good for me for the past 3 or 4 years. Sometimes during the day it gets hard to read because of glare on the gauge face glass but that's really my only gripe with it.

The solenoid screws out and then the plunger is under it as well as a spring. Like so:

If you have the stock turbo on your 92 its a non-waste gated turbo so there is nothing to check with that. Something worth checking would be the fuel shut off solenoid, sometimes the rubber plunger can have pieces come off and that could possibly restrict the fuel flow through the injection pump if a piece is big enough.

Would it be possible to tee the two saddle tanks together so you could use a valve for a dual tank setup?

I was thinking about this a while back and did some searching and found that they don't recommend LED bulbs as headlights for some reason. The LED bulbs that they sell are sold as daytime running lights. LED's can be bright but I think that the main thing holding them back from being good headlights is that the reflector housing for regular bulbs doesn't work that good with LED's since they are more of a directional light.

When I had to put a head gasket on my truck this fall I put a set of the mighty diesel head bolts in since it wasn't possible for me to swing $500+ for head studs and they have been good so far. the most boost I've seen is the occasional 40psi but I am running 15.5 degrees of timing which is what caused my stock head gasket to fail in the first place.

Its a video on photobucket but the embed code photobucket uses doesn't seem to work with this forum. Here's a regular link: Video here

I had the CAD vacuum actuator go out on my old truck and instead of paying $150+ for a posi-lok kit I put my own together for under $20 at the parts/hardware store. All I had to get was a locking choke cable ($15) and then a compression fitting that fit the cable and a spring (about $1 each) Then I drilled and tapped a hole in the CAD shift housing for the compression fitting and drilled a hole for the cable in the shift fork and and I had 4wd again As for why yours releases the way it does it almost sounds to me like the collar/axle splines may be a little damaged, as long as the vacuum system is working as it should.

Nice looking truck! It should still try to crank even if one of the batteries is bad

Have you tried jumping the starter terminals to see if it will crank? You are right on the fuel shutoff solenoid, if it wasn't pulling up it would still crank but not fire.

Yes, that is the line that you need

The doors for a regular cab or extended cab without the rear doors are different than the doors for the extended cab truck with the rear doors. If you would look at them side by side you can see that the doors for the truck without the rear doors are rounded on the back bottom corner where as the doors for the extended cab with rear doors is squared.

As far as I know all the stock flywheels use THIS bearing, and most aftermarket ones use THIS heavier duty bearing.

Just looked at my truck and can confirm that you have ask the lines you need.