bjytech

Oh so it is. As for the lines if I remember right the drier goes right into the evaporator and then you have the line going from the evaporator to the compressor then on to the condenser then the line going from the condenser to the dryer. So I think you have all the lines you need but I will double check on my truck in the morning.

I think you have everything you need there except for the orifice tube 38641

The stats: [*]1997 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Ext. cab [*]260K+ miles [*]5.9L Cummins 12valve turbo diesel [*]4x4 [*]NV4500 5 speed transmission [*]KY clutch 3850# dual disk ceramic clutch [*]1 3/8" cryogenically treated input shaft [*]3.54 axle ratio with LSD in the rear [*]265/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer A/T3 tires [*]Custom cut fuel plate [*]AFC full forward [*]3k governor spring kit [*]Timing set at 15.5 degrees [*]Diamond eye 4" turbo back exhaust with 5" tip [*]Glowshift 3-in-1 Boost, pyrometer, fuel pressure [*]Boost elbow [*]Amsoil EAAU4095 air filter with prefilter [*]Mighty diesel head bolts [*]Power at the wheels is sitting around 360HP and 800FT.LB. of torque right now. [*]All maintenance, repairs and modifications done by myself. Picture from after I brought the truck home back in fall 2012, will add more recent pictures later.

They wouldn't happen to be marine tips on the injectors would they? A guy I work with put 370 marine injectors in his truck and it loped like a puller when cold. The 370 marine injectors are 5x.012 with a 155 degree spray pattern instead of the 145 degree spray pattern our truck have, the wider spray pattern is what makes the marine injectors run dirtier than the proper 145* pattern injectors.

Since nothing with the PCM seems to be working how does the ground for the PCM check out? I believe it grounds out on the front of the engine either by the intake or thermostat housing.

I can't really give you any advice on what size housing to run on a 24v auto but on my 12v with the 5 speed I'm around 350hp running the stock HX35 with the 12cm housing and it spools nice for me and keeps the smoke eliminated in normal driving, however if I'm not careful I can easily push the turbo past its efficiency limit of about 35psi even with my boost elbow allowing full flow to the wastegate.

The WH1C is basically the same as a HX35, think of it as the WH1C being the HX35's identical older brother. They both have the same size compressor/turbine wheels and I believe the only real difference between them is that the HX35 has map width enhancement grooves that the WH1C did not have. Also the exhaust flange from the HY should bolt right up to the WH1C as far as I know.

This past week I had to replace the head gasket on my truck and in the process of removing the head I forgot to unplug the coolant temp sender wire since they hide it so well and ended up breaking the plug off the sender. Well I called the parts place in town and they said they had the sender in stock, so I went to get it and when I got there it was the completely wrong one even though its what the computer was saying is used on the cummins. I did some searching then when I got home and got the cummins part number and managed to get a bunch of other part numbers for it rounded up as well so I just thought I would post them all here in case anybody else ever needs to get one of these senders you can get the right one the first time! [*]Cummins # 3920363 [*]Mopar # 4720314 [*]Napa # TS6681 [*]Autozone # TU276 [*]Advanced auto # WT426 (BWD brand) and # TU276 (Wells brand) [*]Rock auto # TS382 [*]AC Delco # 2131116 [*]O'Reilly's # WT426

Sounds like a loose connection to me, check all the connections on the PCM/ECM and along that harness to start.

I pretty much always start out in 2nd unless I have a load on then I drop down to 1st to start out, or if my passengers really don't like the initial shudder from the dual disk clutch

That sounds about right for 3.55's since I run about the same speed in 4th on my NV4500 where the tach goes red. 5th gear on the nv5600 and 4th gear on the nv4500 are both a 1.00 ratio. I also cruise around in town at 35mph in 4th gear no problem.

I just installed the new clutch in July so I know its good. Reverse has been working good again for the past week so I'm not sure what the problem was but it seems to be fixed.

If the engine just shuts down and all your other accessories keep working I would start by checking the light green/black wire coming of the shutdown solenoid that goes to fuse #9 on the fuse panel in the cab and make sure there's no bad spots in it.

I'll say this, stay away from double coin tires, they are cheap but are also a piece of crap. We've had many problems with them at work.I'm not sure if it's available in 19.5 or not but the Kelly KDA is a good tire and worth looking into, it's what we prefer to run in the drive position on the semis at work. It's been getting great tread wear and the drivers say it grips good in the winter.

It's possible that the battery cable being lose could cause the shutdown solenoid to not hit hard enough when the starter engages to bring it up all the way, but I guess time will tell.

Thanks, although that's one of the first things I tried when it happened. This morning before leaving for work I played around with it some more and went from second straight to reverse and it went in and is still working so far.

Yesterday when I went to leave work I tried to put my truck into reverse but it wouldn't go in for some reason so I just coasted back and took off home, once I got home I played around trying to get it to go into reverse again but it was a no go. It feels as if the reverse lockout is stuck making it so I can't use reverse but I don't really know much about the inner workings of the NV4500. I've rebuilt a few transmissions out of semi's but they seem simpler to me.At this point I'm thinking I'll have to drop the trans and pull the top off when I get a chance unless any of you who know the NV4500 have any other ideas.

There are no dumb questions here. A VP (A.K.A. VP44) is the injection pump on a 24 valve truck.

I don't know that there is any way to adjust the clutch on these tucks, and my clutch pedal has always come up higher than the brake pedal. I went to a full ceramic double disk clutch from stock and it grabs a lot harder when starting out and is sometimes a bit jumpy when starting out.

If I remember right there was a problem with throttle cables fraying, not sure if there was a recall on it or not but I would check for fraying and make sure the pivot points all move freely as well

A "366 spring" is a 3200 RPM governor spring for the VE pumped trucks, its like putting a 3k governor spring kit in a P-pumped truck.

Have you made any recent adjustments to the injection pump?

Sound about right, although I'm a little lost on the return side since it sounds a little different than mine is setup. video is uploading now once its done in about 30min. it will be live at this link http://youtu.be/oiBsnAdUdkM Now I'm off to go get some pizza

I'll go out and see if I can get you a decent video of how it's setup on my truck

Welcome! Sounds like a nice project you have there. As far as bare minimum to get the engine running all you need is power to the fuel shutdown solenoid and power for the starter. My boss has 22.5 Alcoa's on his srw 3500 and it looks pretty good but since he runs semi tires as well the ride is pretty ruff.