bjytech

Fuse #2 in the PDC (fuse box under the hood in engine compartment) is for the power to the ignition switch. When hooking up gauges a good easy way to hook the wires up is to use a "add a circuit", it plugs in to a fuse slot and then gives you an extra fused circuit.

Have you checked to make sure all the fuses are good? Also what year truck is it?

I don't see there being any problem with a sandblasting damage from running steel BB's, and believe it or not ceramic is actually harder than steel. Also I wonder if the zinc or copper coated BB's would be better at preventing rust?

Be sure to check the wires for rubbing on the seat, there's a good possibility you could have a wire rubbed through and grounding out just enough to start pulling a load on the circuit.

pressuring the wastegate line up to 20psi should be sufficient to make it move to fully open, I don't think it even moves 90° but its been a little while since I replaced my actuator. As long as the actuator moves and returns freely it should be good, I've never seen the wastegate in the turbo itself have problems it always seems to be just the actuator itself that fails.

I'm sure if you call them when they open monday and explain the problem to them they will take care of you. Most of the deals they have going on go till at least the 1st.

I agree with John I would think a 62/65/12 or a 63/68/12 would be what you would want, as for the cheetah's I've heard they are good but they seem overpriced for what they are to me.

I put a areo turbine 4040XL muffler on my truck a few months back to get rid of in cab drone I had while on the highway, and I really like it. I still have that nice sound at idle but it quieted the in cab noise down especial while cruising on the highway, it also changed the sound some to have a deeper grunt/tone when you get on it. here's a video I made to get a t-shirt/sticker pack from areo, towards the end I had a co worker take it for a drive by so I could hear it. http://youtu.be/yqRbHaSLmbQ

It's just a sound deadener, when I did my tappet cover gasket I broke mine into a million pieces so I left it off, I didn't notice any difference in noise level.

With the VGT turbos you would be looking at another $500-$600 for a standalone controller for it on top of the cost of the turbo so keep that in mind.

It's nice having friends that can do work like that, I was quoted 5-7k from the local body shop to paint my truck.

That looks great! It's even the color I want my truck my to be

I know what you're talking about, Heat shrink butt connectors and regular shrink tubing. I've never seen thick shrink tubing but have used the regular "paper thin" stuff many times as well as the heat shrink connectors both hold up quite well as long as there's no rubbing.

I've been eyeing that trackbar kit from CPP myself, my track bar has some play in it and that kit seems to be the best option for replacement, I just have to many things I need to get for my truck right now though. I have a U-joint to do at the left front hub, ball joints on the right side, wheel bearings could use replacing in the rear(had a wheel seal leaking a few weeks ago and found the bearings starting to pit, but no parts available at the time) and it needs new shocks all around... never ending battle it seems, but I sure love driving it

Yeah they have a Challenger version as well, it came first.

2015 Dodge Charger SRT... Hellcat!!! 4 doors and 707HP! Not to mention a top speed of 204MPH and it starts at the low low price of $63,995 Although I think the 2010 charger body/grille looked better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKE8dyuMasg

I'm not sure if its true or not but I've heard quite a few people say that bears can give off a really foul smell. I've personally never been around anywhere that has bears so I'm just going off what I've been told.

Here in Ohio most people that buy bare land like you're seeing end up going through a company called farm credit.

This is what I use every day at work to check pressures and air tires up on semi trucks and trailers. It's a valve pal for taking the valve caps off, then a 7" air chuck, and a long pressure gauge.

Amber on the font corners and then red on the rear corners.

I say mound them before the exhaust and cut the mudflaps so that they are a few inches off the ground and you should be fine. The plastic mud flaps are stiffer and more "slippery" than the rubber ones and I and I don't see them get ripped off much on the trucks I work on.

The starter spacer is only needed for 6 speed style flywheels, a regular 5 speed flywheel does not require any spacer.

I've been looking at the molded plastic dash covers that geno's sells, I don't like the carpet covers and a full replacement dash is pricey, This would be the version for your truck: http://www.genosgarage.com/DODGE-RAM-DASH-COVER-BLACK-98-02/productinfo/DASHTOP-998/#.VDnLDx-c3Qo

If there are issues like this guy is talking about they will be fairly obvious when you tear everything apart. When doing clutch jobs, etc as long as you make sure your mating surfaces are clean everything will go back together like it was from the factory, which is good enough for me.

That's the only one I have, wish I could remember where I found it but can't think of it. Edit: Did a little more searching and found the source, Here is a direct link to the 02 Parts breakdown. And here is where I found them (Cummins forum)