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trreed

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Everything posted by trreed

  1. Any turbo you step up to will feel as laggy or more so than the HX35 you took off. Reason being is the HY35 has a 9 cm^2 exhaust housing, which has excellent spooling characteristics, but chokes up top (hence your high EGT's). The HX35 has the same .70 A/R (12 cm^2) housing as the Viper turbo you were looking at. HX35 will spool better than the Viper turbo as well. Last note, 1300* is just starting to get warm. When the 1250* number was created, it was measured post turbo for an engine that was running at 100% load. Pre-turbo temps are up to 200* hotter. So I wouldn't even worry about the 1300*. But that's me and how I run my truck.
  2. if you look at the bottom of the gauge screen, you should see a '-' on the left and a '+' on the right. That's how you change power levels.
  3. Very! Always love a steak. Lean more towards rare instead of blue, however.
  4. It's a Borg Warner 62mm. The Viper line will also be Borg based turbos. I did add mine to compounds. Works fantastically. Smarty says the S-03 works well with larger injectors because their tuning causes timing to max at 18.02* within 30% pedal travel on level 9. More timing earlier helps with smoke, but is hard on head gaskets. The box of choice around here is the Quadzilla Adrenaline, as it allows you to set your own fueling and timing curves to maximize power and efficiency.
  5. I have a 62/68/12. Similar to the 63mm. I loved it as a single. But there is no option for a 70mm turbine in those turbos. The boxer turbo is a 57/65/14, and will have minimal gains and slower spool times over your stock HY35.
  6. What vehicle profile are you using? I'm betting you're using V2 QUADZILLA_ONLY. That profile is what quadzilla uses for testing. You're going to want to find V2 Dodge (your year range) to fully maximize your tuning.
  7. The math is looking at the fueling capabilities of the truck vs. what EGTs you are seeing, the amount of boost you are seeing (used to calculate pressure ratios), the weight that you are towing, and what your preference is for spooling. And then things like your 4.30 gears will factor into the equation in that you still might have EGT issues due to the rpms you will be turning on the highway. In your other post you asked about a 63/70/12 turbo. Doesn't make sense how II got those measurements because SXE turbos are offered with 68mm or 73mm turbines. But if you sourced a 63/68/12, you would have enough air and fuel for ~500hp.
  8. Well as far as it goes. I had to use a screwdriver on mine. Mine don't rotate out, but are a little slide that moves maybe 1/8 of an inch.
  9. Yes the ETH has additional timing built into the VP itself. Something like 2*, which is part of the reason the HO motors like injectors over programmers.
  10. Read this as 'blue steak' and thought about how red it would be... Might consider that dark cherry red or whatever that color is.
  11. That is the wrong manifold. 24V have round exhaust ports. 12V have rectangular
  12. The 3000K springs mean it has 3000 RPM governor springs in the pump. The #8 fuel plate controls fueling, and has a more aggressive fueling curve than stock.
  13. Bet it'll show up around the same time as mine will. Yours will happen to be $12 more expensive. If you paid with PayPal you can file a claim and get refunded
  14. Y’all are talking about the one at 5R Trucks huh.
  15. Oil in the compressor housing could be from an oiled air filter.
  16. I want to know how you kept your engine bay spotless for this long!
  17. Longer if its stubborn. Checking for boost leaks is faster to do
  18. Oil bypass setup. Lines are the hard lines for the CAD
  19. Compounds ?. Its not quiet when you lay into it!
  20. Mine is also straight 4". However, I have a variant of a resonator before the downpipe that quiets it down real nice. Almost like I got it at Target. Almost.
  21. Yes, your turbo is an HX35 @GSP7. Genuine Holset kits can be found at DAP for around $60. Check if you have oil in the intake side. That's a sign you need seals. And any linear movement of the shaft means you need a rebuild. Wheels and shaft should be OK unless something went through the compressor wheel.
  22. If you use the warmup function, it starts on lvl 0 automatically