Sycostang67

Valid points, looking at the stage 2 it most likely would be better for my current set up. I wouldn't spend this much money simply for just a cam swap either, it's one of those "while it's apart" kind of deals. I'd like to get the leak fixed and unfortunately it's an expensive one to do which makes me hate spending that money just for a leak. That's why if a cam makes sense I'd have it done at the same time to justify the expense and get more than just a clean driveway in the end. I would also hate to have a cam put in and be totally underwhelmed/disappointed. I will make a few calls and see what the manufacturers think.

The colt cams big stick is 181/210 with .280/.307 lift and 106* of lobe separation. They are advertising a 200* drop in EGT and 2-3mpg increase. It's supposed to be good up to 4k rpm but they suggest springs if spinning over 3k rpm. I don't see that being an issue, I don't really hot rod around in this thing anymore, I drive more like my father every day, lol. I called Big Twin today to get an estimate, it's a little more than I wanted to spend but still doable. I'd be getting the case leak fixed and having them redo the tappet cover gasket as well since they are already in there. They have everything in stock, even the cam. I'd told them I'd have to think about it for a bit.

You'll have to let me know what you think of that cam, I'm toying with possibly getting one while having my cover leak fixed.

My truck has a small oil leak, just a drop or two at a time but I was told it appears to be from the back side of the timing cover. I'm contemplating having the leak fixed and I figured if the cam has to come out to do it, possibly toss in a different one. I was looking at the Colt cams stage 3 or Big stick as I think it was called. Is anyone using one of these or know someone who is? Just curious if it was worth it. Just saw the other post regarding the big stick, lol.

I replaced my ball joints a couple years ago and used an extension to remove the hubs. I reinstalled them with anti seize so hopefully they come off easily when it's time.

You can get the door jambs done but it costs more. I got the hood from Summit, pretty nice, all steel and has all the same mounting points as the original hood. This was just under $3k. It's good for 6-8 years, I am hoping to get a little more time out of it by keeping it covered in the back yard when not in use. I had my 2006 Mustang wrapped 2 years ago and it's still holding up great. It gets to stay in the garage though.

It's a totally different color now, had it wrapped in gloss amber brown, looks really coppery in the sunlight, also had the windows tinted. The first thing I did with my nice clean truck was make a couple dump runs. A truck can look good and still put in the work.

So I had this show up at work the other day, apparently there is now a tool for removing the hubs on our trucks if you don't feel like sacrificing an extension.

Sounds like you got the same injectors I did. I think I replaced the originals with about 250k miles on them. I'm loving them so far, no issues and more power. If you are interested, I have an extra Adrenaline module I got in a trade, it's only a couple months old. I've been too lazy to post it in the classifieds. Shoot me a message if you like.

Thanks, I altered the tune slightly and will see how it goes. I took some notes down as well so I can make more changes on the fly.

Here is where it sits currently. Fueling starts at 92% and gradually increases maxing out at 138%.

I guess that's not entirely true, I did tow once last year with the turbo and injectors but that was with the Edge tuner. I had to drag my camper in for a recall fix last week. I grabbed a tow tune I found on the forum and it seemed to do pretty good. Road was mostly flat with a few small hills, had no issues keeping EGT's below 1000*, usually around 800*. I did pass 1100* once but I was hammering on it pretty good just to see how high it would go. The temps don't climb near as fast now with the stock tires and Adrenaline tuner. I gave myself 40 minutes to make what should have been a 30 minute trip and completed it in 18 minutes. Any tips or directions to go with fine tuning my tow tune? I have a decent base to start with, just not sure which direction to take it to make it better. Isn't too much timing bad when the engine is under a load?

I ran a set of the Bilstein 5100's for a few thousand miles. I pulled them off and sold them, way too jarring. I switched to a set of Monroe Reflex shocks and have not regretted it. My wife even noticed how much smoother the truck was. It still rides like a truck but I swear the Bilsteins didn't compress at all in comparison.

I tried to do that but the heater core lines are too close and I didn't have enough space for the sensor to protrude without hitting them. I remember that day very well as I had removed the factory plug in the hole and accidentally hit the remote start button on my truck resulting in a geyser of freshly changed oil.

You nailed it Mike, that ring terminal was laying on the metal part of the hydroboost line. I went and secured it a little better, some day I'll hook it up to something.

I went to leave work today and noticed a hazard sign flashing on my Adrenaline display. It was coming from the trans temp icon. I opened it up and the temp was bouncing all over the place, anywhere from 0-220*. I have a mechanical gauge that was still reading less than 100 and the truck had only been running a few minutes so I knew the fluid wasn't hot. When I started driving it settled at 100* and stayed there only occasionally popping up to 108* and then back down to 100*. By the time I got home my mechanical gauge was at 140* while the Quad was still hanging at 100*. The transmission performed flawlessly as usual, could this be an issue with the Quadzilla or the truck computer?

The pumps are nearly identical spec wise, I can't see that being the reason it leaked. I figure aftermarket parts are like the lottery, sometimes you win and sometimes not so much. I've owned my 1967 mustang for 26 years and the lifetime warranty has been used at least 6 times for the power steering pump and about half as much for the water pump.

I got the hood and grill installed over the weekend, have appointments for the tint and wrap next month. I still have some sanding to do to remove the loose clear coat and fill in the deeper scratches.

I've got plenty of clips Mike, it's the plastic on the panels that holds the clips that are breaking off. Each rear panel has 3 metal clips along with the plastic one. I only have 2 metal clip still attached per panel. I did hose everything down with some chain/cable lube, had to take the truck to work yesterday to pick up my new hood and doors worked great.

I was able to pry the panel open enough to see the lower rod had come off the latch. I got my hand in there and pulled on it and got the door open. The rod and clip both appear to be in good shape. I did have to adjust the rod up a bit on both doors to ensure the inside latches would fully release the catches allowing the doors to open. Hopefully this lasts awhile, not sure how many more times I can pull those door panels off before I lose all the mounting tabs.

I've got a lot planned the 01 this year. I just ordered a cowl hood for it, and I need to start sanding the loose clear coat on the roof as the truck will be getting wrapped soon. I still haven't picked a color but I want something light that won't look dirty as easily as a dark color does. I also have another dash core and new dash top to swap in as well as a new head unit to go with the speakers I installed last year. Some window tint and a new windshield are also on the list. May end up doing a manual swap with Doug as well if that all pans out. It's gonna be a whole new truck.....so I can stop looking at other trucks, lol.

It can't break if it's not there.

Awesome, I'll give it a try this weekend. I bought several more cables just in case, but looks like it might be a latch issue on the one side at least.

Here's another testament as to why I hate Dorman parts. I recently replaced both Interior door latch cables in my rear doors as they both broke when I removed the panels to replace my speakers. One of them is just barely too long, you can pull the handle and hears things move but the door won't unlatch. The outside handle still works though. The other door worked for a couple weeks then stopped opening entirely. How can I get the door open to take it apart again?

Mine usually auto connects right away but sometimes it doesn't do it fast enough. I then annoy myself by trying to find the BT signal when I need to be looking for the Wi-Fi signal. So far this go around with the Quad has been much nicer than the last time I tried it. I just wish I could afford to drive my truck more often right now.