Sycostang67

I installed a Redhead last year and haven't had any issues with it. I actually found another core box to send in so my truck didn't have to be sitting apart waiting for the new one to show up. I found the core for $50 on facebook market place. The nice thing about these trucks was Redhead didn't need the same gear box back, they said I could have given them a gasser gear box as a core. I know Mike has a Blue top and he seems to love it as well.

Is there anything specific about the ECM/PCM being one truck is an HO? The other thing I wonder about is the gauge cluster. I'd rather not swap that unless there is someway to keep my odometer current.

I think the only difference with the SO and HO motors was the VP44, I think the HO version has more timing. If you are interested in swapping, I may be interested as well. I really wanted a manual in my truck but they were non existent when I was shopping. I had my Transmission built here in Idaho at Ultimate Transmission. They hooked me up with their towing package. Billet flex plate, billet low stall single disc converter built in house by their guys, billet input shaft and all the other usual billet goodies that come with it, extra upgraded clutches and all that. They told me it was good for 650hp. I had them tear the T-case apart and reseal it as well. I took it in at 25k miles for the first service and they said everything looked good, I've got just over 40k miles on it now, I'm just running the OEM trans cooler and a B&M finned aluminum pan and the trans has never gotten past 160*. The only thing about it that bugs me a bit is it really kicks when it shifts into 4th gear, it only does it if you are empty and putting along. Toss a load behind it or give it some beans and it's smooth. I asked the shop about it and they said it was normal for my build. They said there was some adjustment they could make to smooth it out a little but it would still be there. If it sounds like something you might be interested in, let me know, if not it's all good.

Right now the only attraction of the electric pump would be ease of replacement.

How many miles you got on that 6 speed? I have a built auto with 40k miles.

I thought the Iquad part had stopped working again. I left my dashcam on and it always boots the Iquad connection of my phone, the big bully. The Quad is still working great though now that I remember to check my dash cam.

I'm not sure if anyone has ready made steel braided hoses for our trucks. I have them on my 67 mustang as they came with the disc brake conversion kit I installed. I guess the steel braiding helps stop the hose from expanding under lots of pressure keeping all the force going towards squeezing the rotor. I couldn't tell you if there was a difference as I don't drive my car that hard or often enough to have had to react to the many idiots roaming the streets.

I'm trying to figure out if the sensor Edge uses is different from the one Quadzilla uses. Some of the vendor pics aren't the greatest but they do appear to be a bit different physically at least. I figure I may as well order a Quad sensor since the Edge sensor should go with the tuner when I sell it.

I have a GS fuel psi gauge I have been using since I installed my FASS pump 7 years ago. Since I installed the FASS it has always hovered around 14-15psi with the sensor mounted on the pump. When I got my Edge tuner I added a second sensor in the line 12" before the VP44 and it also hovered around the same level. When I got the quad, I used the same sensor I was using with the Edge as it plugged right in. A few days ago my GS gauge began reading 0psi, I pulled up the Quad fuel reading for the first time and noticed it was around 25psi which I thought was odd but figured I had pressure so I'm good. While trying to figure out the GS gauge issue I noticed my FASS wouldn't prime with a key bump. I start the truck and pull the fuse for the FASS and no change in pressure from the Quad. I unplug the relay and plug it back in and now my GS gauge is back to 15psi but the Quad is now reading 50-60psi. Through all of this the truck has run normal, starting fine, running fine, no sign of fuel starvation. I remember a few years ago the fuse for my FASS blew and I could barely get out of my driveway.

Maybe just leave the dead vac pump in there and run the electric on the side. The 3rd gen pump is only $100 from LMC.

I was going through a parts catalog on the crapper the other day and saw the electric 3rd gen vac pump and wondered if such a conversion were possible. I do have a spare 2nd gen vac pump waiting for a rebuild but I still hate swapping them out.

That makes sense, I wasn't sure with also having the larger injectors if it would still be able to work as well.

While my Quad was down and I was running around on the stock tuning, I noticed I couldn't build more than 20psi of boost or exceed 900* on the EGT gauge. I figured the stock turbo was waste gated to 20psi and that's why it didn't make more. I know the S300 will make 30+, does the truck defuel when it senses the boost level to keep it from rising?

Is there a lot of lines behind the dash? I plan on replacing the dash core this year so I may be able to clean/replace some of that mess.

They told me the Iquad module wasn't functioning properly and needed to be reprogrammed. Once I hooked everything back up it took awhile to connect to again, long enough I was starting to worry but then it started and has connected right away the last two times I drove the truck.

Two weeks ago on my way home from work I noticed my heat was on defrost regardless of knob position. I also noticed CC was out as well as 4wd. The next day everything was back to normal. Today the wife and I went to lunch and no vacumn again, after lunch it's working fine. I rebuilt the pump 5-6 years ago and replaced the lines from the pump to along the fire wall last summer due to crumbling connections. What could be causing a random loss of vacumn like this? I already ordered a posi-lok cable system for the axle as I don't want to be caught with my pants down in the snow.

Update, I did get the tuner back last Monday, didn't get to install it until Friday and I was able to connect to it again. Finally went for a drive today and confirmed it's working as it should.

I'll have to wait until spring to see if I've gained any real mpg. I have the adrenaline and smaller tires now but since I'm a big ol' weenie with my remote start my truck idles a lot in the winter. I do love using the 3cyl high idle at work though, everyone in the building knows I'm getting ready to leave.

Tech support suggested I send the module in for testing, actually they ask for the Adrenaline module and the Iquad module. I shipped them out yesterday and they called me today. They said the Adrenaline module tested fine but the Iquad module wasn't working properly. They reprogrammed it and tested it with multiple devices and it's working fine now. Hopefully I'll have it back this weekend.

I got the map sensor plugged back into the factory harness so that should at least get me running normal again. I sent an email to tech support to see what they say.

I'll have to call and ask, hopefully they are available next week. In the installation manual it says jumpstarting or hooking up a trickle charger with the device connected will void the warranty. That leads me to believe bad things happen when you do one of those things. What's really annoying is this was never an issue with my Edge tuners. Why isn't there some kind of safety device in the Quadzilla that prevents it from getting damaged under those conditions. To make things worse my truck is now throwing a P0237 code which I assume is due to the map sensor junction with the lifeless Quadzilla. My truck is now a complete slug requiring almost 3/4 throttle to get moving from a dead stop. I guess I'll remove the quad from that equation to see if it fixes that issue. I just got home from work and my back is killing me so hanging over my truck doesn't sound like a lot of fun at the moment.

Did a little reading and I'm pretty sure I just ****** myself. When my truck wouldn't start yesterday I put the trickle charger on it for just a minute before I decided to just get new batteries. Apparently that's all it takes to turn a sophisticated $750 piece of equipment into a damn paper weight. I still have my Juice tuner, for $750 I could get a stock turbo and injectors to put back on my truck. I'm gonna go find a wall to put my fist through now.

Some of there stuff is quite handy, but I shy away from the manifolds, electrical items and anything with too many moving parts. I see a lot of there stuff return as warranty items.

I went to leave for work this morning and my batteries were low enough the truck would crank slowly but not enough to start. I got new batteries at work and put them in when I got home. My quadzilla is no longer working now. I checked the fuses and the connections and got nothing. I took it for a drive and can tell it's not doing anything.

When I replaced the shaft, the splines were all chewed off on the box end, the flat spot was the only thing making contact. I think I noticed this with the 2nd reman gear box I installed. I don't like Dorman parts as I see way too many of them come back as warranties and I have replaced a couple exhaust manifolds that were cracked and made by them. If anything I would like the Borgeson just for the sake of getting the Dorman part off my truck.