Sycostang67

I'm running the Black Horse Racing boots another member suggested a while back. I got them on Amazon for $140. They are much thicker than the OEM boots and I haven't had any issues yet.

While I admit I didn't try as hard the OP when choosing my studs, the lack of available info on the Xotic studs is what further pushed me to stick with the ARP.

I need to inspect my parking brake this year. I made the mistake of leaving it on for a few short trips and may need new pads. I'll be sure to gather all the parts and hardware before tearing into it. Nothing more depressing than having a truck in pieces and needing a part that has to be ordered.

I've been running a full set of Glow shift gauges for 7 years now, boost/EGT/FP/Trans temp. I had one issue when I installed them, the FP gauge wasn't working quite right. I called customer service, they had me run a few tests and deemed I needed a different harness which had resistors installed. They sent me the new harness at no cost to me, I swapped it in and it's been working fine. The only other issue I had was about 2 years ago, one of the LEDs quit working in one of the gauges so now I only have 5 colors to choose from instead of 7. When I decide to upgrade I will mostly likely go with isspro, but for now I have no regrets going with Glow shift originally.

I've got a set of 100 hp 7x.009 VCO injectors from DAP, very happy with them.

I had a 300 in my first truck, 1983 F-100. I put that truck through some hell and it always got me home. While these days it's not likely I would ever choose a six(cummins not included) over a V8, I do love to see those sixes getting some love.

Your seal looks like it has a small tear in it. The shop may or may not have messed with that. If you didn't have any work done to the t-case than they most likely didn't touch it. I had my t-case resealed when I had my transmission rebuilt. That seal started leaking the next day, I took it back and they put in another new seal and cleaned the shaft with some emery cloth and that seemed to take care of it.

Ok, I got the Adrenaline fuel pressure sensor installed last weekend and now my readings match. I guess the sensors are internally different.

I hated the way those plastic bits would fade to gray over time. When I still had my OEM bumper I coated the plastics with roll on bed liner, made it look a lot better.

I installed a Redhead last year and haven't had any issues with it. I actually found another core box to send in so my truck didn't have to be sitting apart waiting for the new one to show up. I found the core for $50 on facebook market place. The nice thing about these trucks was Redhead didn't need the same gear box back, they said I could have given them a gasser gear box as a core. I know Mike has a Blue top and he seems to love it as well.

Is there anything specific about the ECM/PCM being one truck is an HO? The other thing I wonder about is the gauge cluster. I'd rather not swap that unless there is someway to keep my odometer current.

I think the only difference with the SO and HO motors was the VP44, I think the HO version has more timing. If you are interested in swapping, I may be interested as well. I really wanted a manual in my truck but they were non existent when I was shopping. I had my Transmission built here in Idaho at Ultimate Transmission. They hooked me up with their towing package. Billet flex plate, billet low stall single disc converter built in house by their guys, billet input shaft and all the other usual billet goodies that come with it, extra upgraded clutches and all that. They told me it was good for 650hp. I had them tear the T-case apart and reseal it as well. I took it in at 25k miles for the first service and they said everything looked good, I've got just over 40k miles on it now, I'm just running the OEM trans cooler and a B&M finned aluminum pan and the trans has never gotten past 160*. The only thing about it that bugs me a bit is it really kicks when it shifts into 4th gear, it only does it if you are empty and putting along. Toss a load behind it or give it some beans and it's smooth. I asked the shop about it and they said it was normal for my build. They said there was some adjustment they could make to smooth it out a little but it would still be there. If it sounds like something you might be interested in, let me know, if not it's all good.

Right now the only attraction of the electric pump would be ease of replacement.

How many miles you got on that 6 speed? I have a built auto with 40k miles.

I thought the Iquad part had stopped working again. I left my dashcam on and it always boots the Iquad connection of my phone, the big bully. The Quad is still working great though now that I remember to check my dash cam.

I'm not sure if anyone has ready made steel braided hoses for our trucks. I have them on my 67 mustang as they came with the disc brake conversion kit I installed. I guess the steel braiding helps stop the hose from expanding under lots of pressure keeping all the force going towards squeezing the rotor. I couldn't tell you if there was a difference as I don't drive my car that hard or often enough to have had to react to the many idiots roaming the streets.

I'm trying to figure out if the sensor Edge uses is different from the one Quadzilla uses. Some of the vendor pics aren't the greatest but they do appear to be a bit different physically at least. I figure I may as well order a Quad sensor since the Edge sensor should go with the tuner when I sell it.

I have a GS fuel psi gauge I have been using since I installed my FASS pump 7 years ago. Since I installed the FASS it has always hovered around 14-15psi with the sensor mounted on the pump. When I got my Edge tuner I added a second sensor in the line 12" before the VP44 and it also hovered around the same level. When I got the quad, I used the same sensor I was using with the Edge as it plugged right in. A few days ago my GS gauge began reading 0psi, I pulled up the Quad fuel reading for the first time and noticed it was around 25psi which I thought was odd but figured I had pressure so I'm good. While trying to figure out the GS gauge issue I noticed my FASS wouldn't prime with a key bump. I start the truck and pull the fuse for the FASS and no change in pressure from the Quad. I unplug the relay and plug it back in and now my GS gauge is back to 15psi but the Quad is now reading 50-60psi. Through all of this the truck has run normal, starting fine, running fine, no sign of fuel starvation. I remember a few years ago the fuse for my FASS blew and I could barely get out of my driveway.

Maybe just leave the dead vac pump in there and run the electric on the side. The 3rd gen pump is only $100 from LMC.

I was going through a parts catalog on the crapper the other day and saw the electric 3rd gen vac pump and wondered if such a conversion were possible. I do have a spare 2nd gen vac pump waiting for a rebuild but I still hate swapping them out.

That makes sense, I wasn't sure with also having the larger injectors if it would still be able to work as well.

While my Quad was down and I was running around on the stock tuning, I noticed I couldn't build more than 20psi of boost or exceed 900* on the EGT gauge. I figured the stock turbo was waste gated to 20psi and that's why it didn't make more. I know the S300 will make 30+, does the truck defuel when it senses the boost level to keep it from rising?

Is there a lot of lines behind the dash? I plan on replacing the dash core this year so I may be able to clean/replace some of that mess.

They told me the Iquad module wasn't functioning properly and needed to be reprogrammed. Once I hooked everything back up it took awhile to connect to again, long enough I was starting to worry but then it started and has connected right away the last two times I drove the truck.

Two weeks ago on my way home from work I noticed my heat was on defrost regardless of knob position. I also noticed CC was out as well as 4wd. The next day everything was back to normal. Today the wife and I went to lunch and no vacumn again, after lunch it's working fine. I rebuilt the pump 5-6 years ago and replaced the lines from the pump to along the fire wall last summer due to crumbling connections. What could be causing a random loss of vacumn like this? I already ordered a posi-lok cable system for the axle as I don't want to be caught with my pants down in the snow.