Sycostang67

I tried to do that but the heater core lines are too close and I didn't have enough space for the sensor to protrude without hitting them. I remember that day very well as I had removed the factory plug in the hole and accidentally hit the remote start button on my truck resulting in a geyser of freshly changed oil.

You nailed it Mike, that ring terminal was laying on the metal part of the hydroboost line. I went and secured it a little better, some day I'll hook it up to something.

I went to leave work today and noticed a hazard sign flashing on my Adrenaline display. It was coming from the trans temp icon. I opened it up and the temp was bouncing all over the place, anywhere from 0-220*. I have a mechanical gauge that was still reading less than 100 and the truck had only been running a few minutes so I knew the fluid wasn't hot. When I started driving it settled at 100* and stayed there only occasionally popping up to 108* and then back down to 100*. By the time I got home my mechanical gauge was at 140* while the Quad was still hanging at 100*. The transmission performed flawlessly as usual, could this be an issue with the Quadzilla or the truck computer?

The pumps are nearly identical spec wise, I can't see that being the reason it leaked. I figure aftermarket parts are like the lottery, sometimes you win and sometimes not so much. I've owned my 1967 mustang for 26 years and the lifetime warranty has been used at least 6 times for the power steering pump and about half as much for the water pump.

I got the hood and grill installed over the weekend, have appointments for the tint and wrap next month. I still have some sanding to do to remove the loose clear coat and fill in the deeper scratches.

I've got plenty of clips Mike, it's the plastic on the panels that holds the clips that are breaking off. Each rear panel has 3 metal clips along with the plastic one. I only have 2 metal clip still attached per panel. I did hose everything down with some chain/cable lube, had to take the truck to work yesterday to pick up my new hood and doors worked great.

I was able to pry the panel open enough to see the lower rod had come off the latch. I got my hand in there and pulled on it and got the door open. The rod and clip both appear to be in good shape. I did have to adjust the rod up a bit on both doors to ensure the inside latches would fully release the catches allowing the doors to open. Hopefully this lasts awhile, not sure how many more times I can pull those door panels off before I lose all the mounting tabs.

I've got a lot planned the 01 this year. I just ordered a cowl hood for it, and I need to start sanding the loose clear coat on the roof as the truck will be getting wrapped soon. I still haven't picked a color but I want something light that won't look dirty as easily as a dark color does. I also have another dash core and new dash top to swap in as well as a new head unit to go with the speakers I installed last year. Some window tint and a new windshield are also on the list. May end up doing a manual swap with Doug as well if that all pans out. It's gonna be a whole new truck.....so I can stop looking at other trucks, lol.

It can't break if it's not there.

Awesome, I'll give it a try this weekend. I bought several more cables just in case, but looks like it might be a latch issue on the one side at least.

Here's another testament as to why I hate Dorman parts. I recently replaced both Interior door latch cables in my rear doors as they both broke when I removed the panels to replace my speakers. One of them is just barely too long, you can pull the handle and hears things move but the door won't unlatch. The outside handle still works though. The other door worked for a couple weeks then stopped opening entirely. How can I get the door open to take it apart again?

Mine usually auto connects right away but sometimes it doesn't do it fast enough. I then annoy myself by trying to find the BT signal when I need to be looking for the Wi-Fi signal. So far this go around with the Quad has been much nicer than the last time I tried it. I just wish I could afford to drive my truck more often right now.

I'm running the Black Horse Racing boots another member suggested a while back. I got them on Amazon for $140. They are much thicker than the OEM boots and I haven't had any issues yet.

While I admit I didn't try as hard the OP when choosing my studs, the lack of available info on the Xotic studs is what further pushed me to stick with the ARP.

I need to inspect my parking brake this year. I made the mistake of leaving it on for a few short trips and may need new pads. I'll be sure to gather all the parts and hardware before tearing into it. Nothing more depressing than having a truck in pieces and needing a part that has to be ordered.

I've been running a full set of Glow shift gauges for 7 years now, boost/EGT/FP/Trans temp. I had one issue when I installed them, the FP gauge wasn't working quite right. I called customer service, they had me run a few tests and deemed I needed a different harness which had resistors installed. They sent me the new harness at no cost to me, I swapped it in and it's been working fine. The only other issue I had was about 2 years ago, one of the LEDs quit working in one of the gauges so now I only have 5 colors to choose from instead of 7. When I decide to upgrade I will mostly likely go with isspro, but for now I have no regrets going with Glow shift originally.

I've got a set of 100 hp 7x.009 VCO injectors from DAP, very happy with them.

I had a 300 in my first truck, 1983 F-100. I put that truck through some hell and it always got me home. While these days it's not likely I would ever choose a six(cummins not included) over a V8, I do love to see those sixes getting some love.

Your seal looks like it has a small tear in it. The shop may or may not have messed with that. If you didn't have any work done to the t-case than they most likely didn't touch it. I had my t-case resealed when I had my transmission rebuilt. That seal started leaking the next day, I took it back and they put in another new seal and cleaned the shaft with some emery cloth and that seemed to take care of it.

Ok, I got the Adrenaline fuel pressure sensor installed last weekend and now my readings match. I guess the sensors are internally different.

I hated the way those plastic bits would fade to gray over time. When I still had my OEM bumper I coated the plastics with roll on bed liner, made it look a lot better.

I installed a Redhead last year and haven't had any issues with it. I actually found another core box to send in so my truck didn't have to be sitting apart waiting for the new one to show up. I found the core for $50 on facebook market place. The nice thing about these trucks was Redhead didn't need the same gear box back, they said I could have given them a gasser gear box as a core. I know Mike has a Blue top and he seems to love it as well.

Is there anything specific about the ECM/PCM being one truck is an HO? The other thing I wonder about is the gauge cluster. I'd rather not swap that unless there is someway to keep my odometer current.

I think the only difference with the SO and HO motors was the VP44, I think the HO version has more timing. If you are interested in swapping, I may be interested as well. I really wanted a manual in my truck but they were non existent when I was shopping. I had my Transmission built here in Idaho at Ultimate Transmission. They hooked me up with their towing package. Billet flex plate, billet low stall single disc converter built in house by their guys, billet input shaft and all the other usual billet goodies that come with it, extra upgraded clutches and all that. They told me it was good for 650hp. I had them tear the T-case apart and reseal it as well. I took it in at 25k miles for the first service and they said everything looked good, I've got just over 40k miles on it now, I'm just running the OEM trans cooler and a B&M finned aluminum pan and the trans has never gotten past 160*. The only thing about it that bugs me a bit is it really kicks when it shifts into 4th gear, it only does it if you are empty and putting along. Toss a load behind it or give it some beans and it's smooth. I asked the shop about it and they said it was normal for my build. They said there was some adjustment they could make to smooth it out a little but it would still be there. If it sounds like something you might be interested in, let me know, if not it's all good.

Right now the only attraction of the electric pump would be ease of replacement.