Sycostang67

It pulls really hard when the boost kicks in, keep catching myself going way to fast too quick. I put some turbo blankets on yesterday to help reduce some of the under hood heat. They don't fit as well as I had hoped but they are better than nothing. The wastegate bracket is in the way for the top turbo and the bottom one is so close to the heat exchanger that it's hard to stuff it through the gap.

I finally got this kit installed last week, it took me about 4 days with the help of some friends. I used the Crazy Carls 2/3 compound kit for a 2nd gen 24v with an S300 turbo. This was not as easy as I thought it would be, a couple times I seriously considered going back to stock. Some of the issues were a result of the kit and some were not. The instructions were pretty vague and kind of a one size fits all deal. I wouldn't put this in the hands of a non mechanically inclined person and like any good install, I had parts left over. One thing that attracted me to this kit was not having to relocate the A/C, battery or heat exchanger. The aftermarket exhaust manifold was mostly to blame but the hot pipe between turbos was also partly responsible for me having to remove one of the metal heater core lines and go rubber all the way. The big turbo is currently using my A/C line as a pillow, pinched between it and the frame. There is some wiggle room but I didn't want to bend a line and lose my refrigerant. I have appointment in 2 weeks to have the system evacuated and the line removed and rerouted/replaced. Everything fits very tight together, the whole setup feels solid. The down pipe was shorter than my old one but I was able to cut a section from the old one to fill the gap. At least it doesn't touch my firewall any more. The truck is quieter at the tailpipe but whistles more than before. I haven't adjusted my tune or the wastegate yet, but I did notice my max boost has dropped on level 3(25psi vs 30) of my daily tune and gone up on level 6(35psi vs 30). I'll have to spend some time tweaking things, maybe drag the camper around as well.

I think I once used a punch to mark the location of the nut relative to the pinion shaft and tightened it back on until the marks lined up as I didn't have a torque wrench that would go high enough. I think it was my Ram I did that on but can't rightfully remember. Either way it's not leaking now.

It's definitely not cheap, but I figure my auto isn't very kind to the bushing and not having to replace it every couple years would be nice. I can understand the high speed self disassembly part, but is there any real reduction in strength? I plan to start installing my compound setup this weekend.

Thinking about having a one piece drive shaft built for my truck. The carrier bushing is going out again, I can feel it thump around when letting off the throttle. What are the pro's and cons for this?

Been running my Redhead for just over a year with no issues. I bought a used core locally for $50 to send them so my truck wouldn't be down while I waited for the new box to arrive. That also allowed me to get a warranty refund on the crappy reman box I had been running.

I saw a set of the Night edition dually wheels on Facebook a few weeks ago, I think the guy wanted $1700-1800 for them. For 6 new tires and decent looking wheels it's not a bad deal though. I think the 5th gen duallies have a different lug pattern though.

That thing is huge! I have an ATV winch lying around I may add on, it certainly would make things a little easier. I was gonna put it on my engine hoist but the crane will probably get used more often.

I've always liked that look, the black wheels with the chrome centers. Nicely done.

I recently installed a small crane in the bed of my truck, got it from Harbor Freight for just over $120 IIRC. The instructions want you to bolt it to the frame but that seems like it would be intrusive and waste too much real estate. I put it in the corner on top of a 1/4" steel plate that reaches the edges of the bed cross members for extra support. I doubt it's sturdy enough for the 1000lbs but it's plenty sturdy to pick up my 200lb generator as it was able to pick up my 250lb butt with ease.

I got the rest of the kit last week, probably won't get around to installing it until my week off in August. One thing I was curious about though is boost regulation. Will I be able to set max boost through the wastegate on the smaller turbo as the larger one has no wastegate?

That chart has me thinking now. My wife has decided she want's bigger tires on her Jeep wrangler, currently running 33's with 3:21 gears and an auto. I was gonna have it swapped to 4:10's in August but now I think 4:56 might be better with 35's.

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger. The new turbo already arrived, just got to wait for the kit to get powder coated. This turbo is huge, it's kind of intimidating.

I looked at a few, CC, PDD, and Pusher. I would like the PDD kit if I was replacing both turbos, but I would prefer to keep the one I already got. They do have an ad a S369 option but it's about $1000 more than the CC kit. The Pusher kit relocates the battery and the auto trans heat exchanger I believe. I emailed Carls, Carl and his wife Diana both replied to me suggesting I go with the 1.15 housing for better spooling with my GXE. I'm gonna sit on it over the weekend and do some more googling, but so far haven't found anyone who was disappointed with the CC kit.

I'm looking at Crazy Carls 2/3 compound kit for S300 w/475 right now. It sounds like I have the right smaller turbo for this to work, just not sure which larger turbo I should go with. My current turbo is the GXE 57/65/12 gated T3, for the new S475 it lists either a 96/1.32 or a 96/1.15. I'm not sure which one would work for me. The truck is just an occasional driver/tow rig so I don't need max power. I would like to keep the boost around 50psi as well. I have head studs but am still rocking the OEM head gasket with 250k miles. I sent an email to Carls asking their opinion as well, and to see if maybe there were other options.

I was watching some videos last night and had a thought. For the cost of the cam and leaks getting fixed, I could just get the leaks fixed and get a compound setup. The price difference is negligible. Would I be better served going that route? It looks like most of the kits would put an S475 over my S300.

Valid points, looking at the stage 2 it most likely would be better for my current set up. I wouldn't spend this much money simply for just a cam swap either, it's one of those "while it's apart" kind of deals. I'd like to get the leak fixed and unfortunately it's an expensive one to do which makes me hate spending that money just for a leak. That's why if a cam makes sense I'd have it done at the same time to justify the expense and get more than just a clean driveway in the end. I would also hate to have a cam put in and be totally underwhelmed/disappointed. I will make a few calls and see what the manufacturers think.

The colt cams big stick is 181/210 with .280/.307 lift and 106* of lobe separation. They are advertising a 200* drop in EGT and 2-3mpg increase. It's supposed to be good up to 4k rpm but they suggest springs if spinning over 3k rpm. I don't see that being an issue, I don't really hot rod around in this thing anymore, I drive more like my father every day, lol. I called Big Twin today to get an estimate, it's a little more than I wanted to spend but still doable. I'd be getting the case leak fixed and having them redo the tappet cover gasket as well since they are already in there. They have everything in stock, even the cam. I'd told them I'd have to think about it for a bit.

You'll have to let me know what you think of that cam, I'm toying with possibly getting one while having my cover leak fixed.

My truck has a small oil leak, just a drop or two at a time but I was told it appears to be from the back side of the timing cover. I'm contemplating having the leak fixed and I figured if the cam has to come out to do it, possibly toss in a different one. I was looking at the Colt cams stage 3 or Big stick as I think it was called. Is anyone using one of these or know someone who is? Just curious if it was worth it. Just saw the other post regarding the big stick, lol.

I replaced my ball joints a couple years ago and used an extension to remove the hubs. I reinstalled them with anti seize so hopefully they come off easily when it's time.

You can get the door jambs done but it costs more. I got the hood from Summit, pretty nice, all steel and has all the same mounting points as the original hood. This was just under $3k. It's good for 6-8 years, I am hoping to get a little more time out of it by keeping it covered in the back yard when not in use. I had my 2006 Mustang wrapped 2 years ago and it's still holding up great. It gets to stay in the garage though.

It's a totally different color now, had it wrapped in gloss amber brown, looks really coppery in the sunlight, also had the windows tinted. The first thing I did with my nice clean truck was make a couple dump runs. A truck can look good and still put in the work.

So I had this show up at work the other day, apparently there is now a tool for removing the hubs on our trucks if you don't feel like sacrificing an extension.

Sounds like you got the same injectors I did. I think I replaced the originals with about 250k miles on them. I'm loving them so far, no issues and more power. If you are interested, I have an extra Adrenaline module I got in a trade, it's only a couple months old. I've been too lazy to post it in the classifieds. Shoot me a message if you like.