Sycostang67

When my seat belt light wouldn't go off I simply assumed it was the wires in the buckle side that had shorted out or broken. The light would shut off if I leaned forward and come back on when sitting straight up. I went to the salvage yard and got another one and that fixed the problem for several years. The issue has returned though, those wires can only get bent around so much before they break. If the plastic sheath supporting the belt hadn't fallen apart I doubt it would be an issue. I'm due for another salvage yard shopping spree anyhow.

Would an injector suddenly go bad like that? He's thinking about having them all replaced since he's nearing 100k anyhow.

Ooh, that breaks my heart. Hopefully you can get it workable again.

I just had to smog my truck last month, lady ran a mirror under the truck but never popped the hood. Just stabbed the OBD2 port and the sensor in the stack. I put the quadzilla on level 0 and passed with a .02, max allowable being .40. Having the Quad does make smog checks easy as I did run the smarty/Edge combo for a little while and would always change the smarty tune and unplug the Edge. The Quad has also made tuning my compounds easier, getting closer to 18mpg now.

I'm trying to help my friends son figure out an issue with his truck. It's a 2018 Ram 2500 with a 6.7/Auto, it's lifted with I think 37" tires. He had the truck deleted over a year ago and has EFI live tuning and the knob on the dash to switch tunes. The truck has about 90k miles on it currently and has stock turbo/injectors/intake. He just took a job in Montana and drove straight there, about 14 hours I think he said and had to fight a pretty nasty headwind most of the way. The next day and every day since when he starts the truck in the morning it idles really rough and makes a lot of black smoke. It will clear up and smooth out after a little bit and run fine the rest of the day though. The morning temps have been 25-40 where he's at.

Vehicle Nickname: Dan Date Added To The Garage: 2023-03-10 Garage Link: Dan

If it was a dealer retrofit, there may also be a relay hanging in the corner of your engine compartment, driver side by the firewall.

Ended up dragging the Belvedere home as well along with a 93 F-150. My back yard is now at capacity.

There actually was another car it shared a living space with, a 1959 Belvedere in decidely worse shape. That car is being sold to someone else though. Nope, it belongs to a friend of mine, it is currently being stored in my back yard though. It's got a 440 from a 1968 Polara police car.

It wasn't anything too heavy, built some walls for my flat bed and loaded up 3400lbs of scrap, rolled across the scales at just over 15k total. I also hauled a 1959 Plymouth Fury. The truck pulls so much harder with a load now, no hesitation in getting up to speed in traffic. It was a night and day difference compared to just a single turbo. I never crossed 1000* EGT even while pushing it hard on level 5 of my towing tune. The whistling, oh how I love the whistling.

On the really cold days my gauge barely cracks 100* with the OEM heat exchanger. They say this heats up the fluid quicker and even suggested putting shut off valves on it if you didn't need the extra heating in the summer.

I was casually looking for a transmission line kit and came across this fancy transmission pan. It allows you to bypass the heat exchanger, it has fittings in the pan to run engine coolant. It looks like it could eliminate the possibility of making a large milk shake should the factory exchanger fail. It's not cheap but it has me rubbing my chin and going Hmmmm.

Definitely more orange than mine. The Amber brown looks a lot more copper in the light which I like, got a guy at work calling it my big penny, lol.

I swapped from the stock HY35 last year to the 57GXE and 100hp injectors. It did seem to spool a little slower than stock. This last summer though I did the crazy carls 2/3 compound kit and put a S400 75mm turbo on top and the whole setup seems to spool much quicker now. It's building boost around 13-1500rpm. I haven't had the chance to tow with it yet, really looking forward to it this spring though. The truck is a lot more fun to drive and it sounds like a jet engine now.

I got mine as a combo manifold/turbo from DAP, oddly enough they didn't bolt up together which resulted in me having to remove some threads. I had to do it again when I flipped the manifold over to install my compound setup. When I put on the 3 piece and S300, my EGT's seemed higher at first and went even higher when I added the 100hp injectors. Tuning with the Quad helped get that in check though. I can't wait to start towing next year and see how the compounds perform with a load. I only got to tow twice with just the S300 and it wasn't through any really hilly terrain, mostly flat and some small hills but it did just fine. I really wish DAP had been ceramic coating when I got my manifold. The shop that coated mine royally botched it. I don't think they did any prep work as all the coating flaked off in a couple weeks.

Well we kind of got lucky, it turns out you can rebuild the Trac-loc with the carrier still installed. We were gonna put new outer bearings and seals in as well but every part my friend ordered was wrong. I hooked him up with the proper bearings and seals from work but he had to reorder the clutch kit from some where else. He should have the kit by this weekend.

I just saw Quadzilla sells custom tunes, $100 a pop though. They are giving 50% off from now until the end of December though. You get free tune revisions for the first 30 days as well if you have issues. Another option is 1badvp44performancellc.com also writes tunes for $100. I know it's expensive for a tune but they are written with your truck specs in mind and it's an option if time or lack of ability is an issue. I've got a better understanding of these thanks to mike but I still get confused if I don't keep up on it.

My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the 7.5" rear axle. We recently grabbed and installed another 7.5" axle from a 1990 ranger that had a Trac-loc in it from the junk yard. He wanted a little more traction as it's his winter driver. He even got bigger rear brakes and some 3:73 gears in the deal. We changed the fluid with some Castrol 80w-90 for LS rear ends. The truck drove fine on the test drive and got my friend home but now he says it's starting to make grinding noises. I plan on adding a bottle of LS additive even though I thought the Castrol already had some, the Royal Purple I put in my mustang did and I haven't had any issues. If the Trac-loc needs to be rebuilt, will I need to do anything special regarding the carrier installation? I assume if I retorque everything and use the same shims in the same spaces it should be fine. Normally he would have had a shop install a new LS device but his wife in interning right now and money is tight.

I made the quad/extended cab mistake when I was ordering weather stripping for my truck from LMC. I mistakenly ordered the extended cap strip that goes all the way around, ended up being about 2-3' short of completing the loop. I ended up splicing in a good section of the old stuff to make it complete. I've replaced almost all the cab/window weather stripping this year and it's made a pretty good difference. My windows no longer rattle or squeak and my doors require a little more authority to shut but they don't rattle anymore either.

One problem I'm having right now is my fuel economy is tanking. I can't stop making this whistle.

That's what I'm hoping, haven't had to tow with it yet. I almost got to yesterday when the wheel bearing on my wifes jeep came apart on the highway but unfortunately I need the jeep to get my flatbed out of my back yard as the truck is too long to make the turn without hitting my fence. I may pull my camper out this weekend to winterize and drag it around to see if I notice a difference.

It pulls really hard when the boost kicks in, keep catching myself going way to fast too quick. I put some turbo blankets on yesterday to help reduce some of the under hood heat. They don't fit as well as I had hoped but they are better than nothing. The wastegate bracket is in the way for the top turbo and the bottom one is so close to the heat exchanger that it's hard to stuff it through the gap.

I finally got this kit installed last week, it took me about 4 days with the help of some friends. I used the Crazy Carls 2/3 compound kit for a 2nd gen 24v with an S300 turbo. This was not as easy as I thought it would be, a couple times I seriously considered going back to stock. Some of the issues were a result of the kit and some were not. The instructions were pretty vague and kind of a one size fits all deal. I wouldn't put this in the hands of a non mechanically inclined person and like any good install, I had parts left over. One thing that attracted me to this kit was not having to relocate the A/C, battery or heat exchanger. The aftermarket exhaust manifold was mostly to blame but the hot pipe between turbos was also partly responsible for me having to remove one of the metal heater core lines and go rubber all the way. The big turbo is currently using my A/C line as a pillow, pinched between it and the frame. There is some wiggle room but I didn't want to bend a line and lose my refrigerant. I have appointment in 2 weeks to have the system evacuated and the line removed and rerouted/replaced. Everything fits very tight together, the whole setup feels solid. The down pipe was shorter than my old one but I was able to cut a section from the old one to fill the gap. At least it doesn't touch my firewall any more. The truck is quieter at the tailpipe but whistles more than before. I haven't adjusted my tune or the wastegate yet, but I did notice my max boost has dropped on level 3(25psi vs 30) of my daily tune and gone up on level 6(35psi vs 30). I'll have to spend some time tweaking things, maybe drag the camper around as well.

I think I once used a punch to mark the location of the nut relative to the pinion shaft and tightened it back on until the marks lined up as I didn't have a torque wrench that would go high enough. I think it was my Ram I did that on but can't rightfully remember. Either way it's not leaking now.

It's definitely not cheap, but I figure my auto isn't very kind to the bushing and not having to replace it every couple years would be nice. I can understand the high speed self disassembly part, but is there any real reduction in strength? I plan to start installing my compound setup this weekend.