Sycostang67

I had a similar strip on my truck a couple years ago. It's a really tight fit when the tailgate is opening and closing. I hauled some gravel in my truck and a few rocks got down there and got pinched and cracked the housing allowing moisture into the light. It still worked but sometimes it would turn on when I wasn't using the truck. I would walk by the window at work and notice the strip all lit up. I would like to get another one someday. I do have the 60" amber strips under my doors that act as marker lights and sequential signals. They have an access light(white) function as well but I haven't wired it up yet.

I got my new housings and the bulbs installed...I have no high beams and they cast really irregular shaped patterns. I'm wondering if they sent me the wrong bulbs. The box had the right part number on it but being in the auto parts industry, I see misboxed stuff all the time. I haven't adjusted anything yet, fingers wouldn't work in the cold. Did you have to clock your bulbs a certain way? I just turned them until they stopped, LED portions are facing are in the 12 and 6 position.

These are going in regular housing. I was concerned about the 9004/9007 difference but in reading the description it said this "9007/HB5 are Dual Beam Bulbs which can achieve Low Beam and High Beam function in one individual bulb, NOT fit vehicles which take separate bulbs for Low Beam and High Beam". . There were a couple reviews from other 2nd gen owners saying they worked great as well. I figure for the price it's worth a shot.

I just ordered new housings and them fancy LED bulbs. We'll see if I like them or if I have a new mortal enemy.

I have the same mirrors and would like the lights to do both functions as well.

I may have to give those a try. I plan on going back to OEM housings soon, tired of playing with the aftermarket units that are only marginally better or much worse.

Definitely call first, I called the closest dealer and they said it would take 2-3 hours and was gonna cost about $200. The next dealer I called said 15-30 minutes and $40. The extra drive time was well worth the money saved.

Ooh, I can reply again, tried awhile back but nothing would happen. I got them installed, came with this nifty little bracket that makes attaching the valves to a square tube real easy so I attached them to my headache rack near my compressor. I had one leaker which was my fault, neglected to fully insert the line in one of the valves.

Well I'm glad I asked, I'll leave them separate then. Still gonna run them up to the front of the bed so I don't have to uncoil my air hose every time I need to fill them. One other question though. When not in use, do I just leave the bags empty or should I leave some air in them?

My Glowshift gauges are over 5 years old now and still work great. If they do fail I probably will step up to some isspro gauges.

When I installed mine, and fired the truck back up the low fuel light was on. I made it to a gas station without any issues. The truck will run fine below 1/4 tank but will lose prime over night in my drive way which has a slight angle. One bump of the key primes it right back up though. I try not to go lower than 1/4 in any of my vehicles though, I'm an expect the worst kind of guy and my 67 mustang has bitten me twice with the sender sticking at 1/4 tank and letting me run out of fuel. I have since replaced the sender but still give it the evil eye every time it gets that low and make sure I stop for fuel.

I ordered a Firestone air spring kit for my truck, installation appears pretty straight forward. I had a question about the air hose routing though. I got the optional "T" fitting as I mostly need the kit for leveling while pulling a trailer. I want to mount the schrader valve near my tool box on the passenger side of the truck close to my compressor for quick easy filling. Will it matter that the air lines from the bags to the "T" are different lengths or do I need to have them equal with a central meeting point?

I never even got to check. He cleaned the filter and an intake sensor and his buddy cleared the codes before he brought it over. It had more power but he says it still isn't as strong as it was. He had bought a new K&N filter to put in it but I advised him against it. His job has him off road 90% of the time and I see how much dust passes through those things with city driving.

I'm working on a 2018 ram 2500 this weekend, truck is lifted with 37's but drivetrain is all stock except for an MBRP DPF back exhaust with 57k miles. Owner recently noticed a severe lack of power and it makes very little boost. I took it for a quick drive and with the pedal stuck on the floor it was like a pleasant sunday drive. The truck will still get up to speed and maintain it but takes forever to get there. I didn't notice any smoke from the tail pipe. It has an engine light on but I went to look at the shocks, so I didn't bring my scan tool. He's bringing it over sunday so I can take a better look and see what the light is about. I'm wondering if these symptoms point to anything typical of these trucks to better prepare me for when it gets here.

Here's the engine in my mustang, I pulled it a couple years ago after a motor mount broke and got wrapped up in "while I'm at it" syndrome. It used to be purple and yellow, decided to go copper and black this time.

I had a 4 horn setup, it was loud but not the tone I wanted. I eventually swapped it out for the Chief. It's mounted on the front of my tool box, scares the crap out of my daughter when she's in the back seat.

I have a pair of AVS in channel visors I picked up from Oreilly's for less than $50. No binding, no tow mirror interference, had them almost 5 years with no issues. I put a set on the wifes Wrangler and a buddies Toyota and they are both doing great as well. Probably get a set for my mothers new GMC as well.

I got the M/T tire simply because I like how aggressive they look and had always wanted a set so I splurged last time and got the Cooper STT pro's which are a fairly aggressive mud tire. They do handle well in every terrain except ice. I had them siped which helped a lot but I'm still extra careful. I have about 30k miles on them and would say I still have about 50% tread left. I did step up to a 34" tire with these going from a 285 Toyo and the Toyo's were definitely more stable probably due to the size as well. I initially had the coopers on the OEM 3rd gen rims which were too narrow and at higher speeds I could feel the coopers ballooning and making the truck squirrelly. I later went with a with a 9" wide rim which seemed to eliminate that problem completely. I probably had about 20k miles on the Toyo's before I got the coopers and have nothing bad to say about them.

Got this installed today, fit perfectly. The connection between the main line from the pump and the first T-fitting was pretty rotten on my old assembly, probably why I would suddenly lose control of my A/C and cruise control. Really glad this was brought to my attention and I didn't have to spend time looking for bits of hose.

That did show up quick, just got it installed. Thankfully I didn't have any of the stuck screw issues I've heard about. All the voltages checked out so hopefully I'm good to go. I'll probably take it to work a few times before my trip just in case. Does it matter what weight of oil I use to coat the terminals?

I've had a few sets of the Toyo's as well with no issues. My Cooper STT Pro's have done pretty well too but I will most likely go back to an A/T tire now that I finally had fun with my M/T's.

I need to clean the terminals anyhow so I will try it with the batteries disconnected. I did go ahead and order the Timbo apps anyhow, I do have a trip planned and didn't want to wait until the last minute if I do need a new sensor.

Five minutes in and I'm already pissed off. I disconnected the sensor and tested the plug with engine idling and got less than 5.5 volts, pretty steady at 5.13 volts. I'm now trying to test resistance in the sensor and I am getting nothing. I've tried grounding to the battery, various locations in the engine compartment, the sensor itself and the meters(all 3 I tried) read nothing. The sensor bracket is unbolted from the engine, it was the only way I could get it unplugged. Whatever is below novice, nincompoop maybe is my electrical skill level so any help on how to use these things would be appreciated. The meters all zero out when I touch the probes together but read nothing at all or OL otherwise. I am using the ohm setting on the meters.

I had the flatbed hitched up to go get some scrap from a friends house, made it 3/4 around my block and got a dead pedal. I was able to coast back into my parking spot which was nice. I checked codes on the Edge, got a P0121 and a few others I see on occasion. The pedal came back after a minute of sitting but now I'm too spooked to drive it anywhere. I got the explanation of the code from the articles section and will be going through the test steps. I wouldn't be too upset if it were time to step up to a timbos apps. I was able to do my scrap run, buddy still had his work truck, 2016 GMC 2500 so we hooked up my trailer and got it done. I want air conditioned seats in my truck now though.

Just ordered mine, should have it next week some time. I'm going camping in a few weeks and want that A/C pointed at my face for the journey.