Sycostang67

My Glowshift gauges are over 5 years old now and still work great. If they do fail I probably will step up to some isspro gauges.

When I installed mine, and fired the truck back up the low fuel light was on. I made it to a gas station without any issues. The truck will run fine below 1/4 tank but will lose prime over night in my drive way which has a slight angle. One bump of the key primes it right back up though. I try not to go lower than 1/4 in any of my vehicles though, I'm an expect the worst kind of guy and my 67 mustang has bitten me twice with the sender sticking at 1/4 tank and letting me run out of fuel. I have since replaced the sender but still give it the evil eye every time it gets that low and make sure I stop for fuel.

I ordered a Firestone air spring kit for my truck, installation appears pretty straight forward. I had a question about the air hose routing though. I got the optional "T" fitting as I mostly need the kit for leveling while pulling a trailer. I want to mount the schrader valve near my tool box on the passenger side of the truck close to my compressor for quick easy filling. Will it matter that the air lines from the bags to the "T" are different lengths or do I need to have them equal with a central meeting point?

I never even got to check. He cleaned the filter and an intake sensor and his buddy cleared the codes before he brought it over. It had more power but he says it still isn't as strong as it was. He had bought a new K&N filter to put in it but I advised him against it. His job has him off road 90% of the time and I see how much dust passes through those things with city driving.

I'm working on a 2018 ram 2500 this weekend, truck is lifted with 37's but drivetrain is all stock except for an MBRP DPF back exhaust with 57k miles. Owner recently noticed a severe lack of power and it makes very little boost. I took it for a quick drive and with the pedal stuck on the floor it was like a pleasant sunday drive. The truck will still get up to speed and maintain it but takes forever to get there. I didn't notice any smoke from the tail pipe. It has an engine light on but I went to look at the shocks, so I didn't bring my scan tool. He's bringing it over sunday so I can take a better look and see what the light is about. I'm wondering if these symptoms point to anything typical of these trucks to better prepare me for when it gets here.

Here's the engine in my mustang, I pulled it a couple years ago after a motor mount broke and got wrapped up in "while I'm at it" syndrome. It used to be purple and yellow, decided to go copper and black this time.

I had a 4 horn setup, it was loud but not the tone I wanted. I eventually swapped it out for the Chief. It's mounted on the front of my tool box, scares the crap out of my daughter when she's in the back seat.

I have a pair of AVS in channel visors I picked up from Oreilly's for less than $50. No binding, no tow mirror interference, had them almost 5 years with no issues. I put a set on the wifes Wrangler and a buddies Toyota and they are both doing great as well. Probably get a set for my mothers new GMC as well.

I got the M/T tire simply because I like how aggressive they look and had always wanted a set so I splurged last time and got the Cooper STT pro's which are a fairly aggressive mud tire. They do handle well in every terrain except ice. I had them siped which helped a lot but I'm still extra careful. I have about 30k miles on them and would say I still have about 50% tread left. I did step up to a 34" tire with these going from a 285 Toyo and the Toyo's were definitely more stable probably due to the size as well. I initially had the coopers on the OEM 3rd gen rims which were too narrow and at higher speeds I could feel the coopers ballooning and making the truck squirrelly. I later went with a with a 9" wide rim which seemed to eliminate that problem completely. I probably had about 20k miles on the Toyo's before I got the coopers and have nothing bad to say about them.

Got this installed today, fit perfectly. The connection between the main line from the pump and the first T-fitting was pretty rotten on my old assembly, probably why I would suddenly lose control of my A/C and cruise control. Really glad this was brought to my attention and I didn't have to spend time looking for bits of hose.

That did show up quick, just got it installed. Thankfully I didn't have any of the stuck screw issues I've heard about. All the voltages checked out so hopefully I'm good to go. I'll probably take it to work a few times before my trip just in case. Does it matter what weight of oil I use to coat the terminals?

I've had a few sets of the Toyo's as well with no issues. My Cooper STT Pro's have done pretty well too but I will most likely go back to an A/T tire now that I finally had fun with my M/T's.

I need to clean the terminals anyhow so I will try it with the batteries disconnected. I did go ahead and order the Timbo apps anyhow, I do have a trip planned and didn't want to wait until the last minute if I do need a new sensor.

Five minutes in and I'm already pissed off. I disconnected the sensor and tested the plug with engine idling and got less than 5.5 volts, pretty steady at 5.13 volts. I'm now trying to test resistance in the sensor and I am getting nothing. I've tried grounding to the battery, various locations in the engine compartment, the sensor itself and the meters(all 3 I tried) read nothing. The sensor bracket is unbolted from the engine, it was the only way I could get it unplugged. Whatever is below novice, nincompoop maybe is my electrical skill level so any help on how to use these things would be appreciated. The meters all zero out when I touch the probes together but read nothing at all or OL otherwise. I am using the ohm setting on the meters.

I had the flatbed hitched up to go get some scrap from a friends house, made it 3/4 around my block and got a dead pedal. I was able to coast back into my parking spot which was nice. I checked codes on the Edge, got a P0121 and a few others I see on occasion. The pedal came back after a minute of sitting but now I'm too spooked to drive it anywhere. I got the explanation of the code from the articles section and will be going through the test steps. I wouldn't be too upset if it were time to step up to a timbos apps. I was able to do my scrap run, buddy still had his work truck, 2016 GMC 2500 so we hooked up my trailer and got it done. I want air conditioned seats in my truck now though.

Just ordered mine, should have it next week some time. I'm going camping in a few weeks and want that A/C pointed at my face for the journey.

I got the stereo making sound again, not the way I had thought though. Playing with the tuner got me nowhere so I pulled the stereo out to see if something had unplugged. I've never seen a stereo wired the way this one was. The speaker wires coming from the head unit were taped off and not connected to anything. The speaker wires coming from the harness were looped around and went right back into the dash some where. Her son used to have a fancy stereo setup i this truck so I imagine it was because of equipment it used to have. I cut the speaker wires on the harness and hooked them back up to the wires on the head unit and it worked. All I can figure is that whatever doohickey the music was coming from before failed at an odd time.

Well I got lucky, the place my sister ended up buying in New York only had 2 acres. Her husband felt that wasn't enough property to justify the size of the tractor they had so he sold it and I bought him out of the trailer before they left. My only gripe is that it's a dove tail, would rather have a flat deck but at least it's a 10k trailer. Already putting it to use though.

I was doing some work to this truck for a friend, the radio was working fine the previous night but I turned to down to see if I had fixed an exhaust leak. The next day I pull it out front to figure out the non-op fog lights. I pull the fuse panel and find the Edge CTS monitor stuffed behind the cover. I know it was smogged earlier and was unplugged. I proceed to reload the tune, always been set on economy, not that it helps with a 6.0 gasser. As I'm going through the motions, the tuner asks me to pull the radio fuse. I pull a fuse from the PDC labeled RAD and continue loading the tune without issue. My friend comes to get the truck and the radio is on but no sound. Tried to reset the radio(Kenwood DDX24BT) but no dice, same issue. Tried adjusting source levels, volume levels, every option on the unit and no sound. Upon further inspection I find a fuse in the inside fuse box labeled RDO. I'm thinking maybe that's the fuse I should have pulled. Did I possibly hurt the radio? Google isn't helping much. I plan on trying to reload the stock tune and remove the Edge to see if that helps. My friend took the truck home so I will have to swing by her place later this week to try it.

Good timing, the other end of my hose that's attached to the firewall is getting brittle. I think it may be the cause of my random A/C from the defrost vents.

I paid about $400 for mine, but I sold my old ones for $200 which helped.

I wasn't in a hurry to get tow mirrors until someone referred to the little ones as hippo ears. After that is was all I could think about when I saw them. I have a set of the fancy lighted power fold 4th gens from 1AAuto. My only complaint is that the fold controller in the passenger side quit working the first week I had them. The mirrors come with one spare controller which was nice but I tried contacting customer service to get another spare and they don't sell them individually. Now I only use the fold option when absolutely necessary.

Had to go and check mine, bought a pair of 6 tons last year, not the part number they are looking for though.

Got an update, my wife hated the color of my car so much she fronted 3/4 of the cost to have it wrapped. No complaints from me. It's a color shifting vinyl, it changes as you walk around it.

Years ago I bought a brand new flat bed trailer, 5k axles, 18' long for $2500. I can't even find one used for that price now. The same trailer new will cost me $3500-$4k now and even used is still commanding that price if you can even find one. I am in need of a new flat bed as the one I share with my BIL is going to NY with him. I have about $3k but it looks as though I will be getting a 7k trailer instead of 10k. I rarely haul anything that heavy anymore but I still like the thought of having more capacity than needed. Any recommendations for trailer sales in my area, I should be out shopping in a week or two.