Sycostang67

A remote start has other uses, like scaring coworkers who are smoking behind your truck. I think I'm the only spoiled one in here.

I assume it's the standard ratio box, what ever the computer at work called for. I didn't even know there were two ratios until I went looking for the redhead which arrived today.

I have compustar keyless/remote start on my truck and my 06 mustang with a stick, no alarms though. They both cost me about $400 installed. The unit in the truck has worked perfectly for the last three years. The one in the car works, but for some reason when I use it my tail lights don't work. If I shut the car off and start it normally they work again so it hasn't bothered me too much. It may also be related to my aftermarket tail lights, that car doesn't seem to care for LED's anyhow.

No kidding, I'm on my 3rd reman box in the 80k miles I've had my truck. The first one leaked, the second one was waaaaaay out of adjustment and the 3rd and current one causes the truck to pull to the right. I'm hoping this will be the last box I have to swap for quite some time.

I just put in a order for a red head an hour ago. I don't want to fight the crappy reman box I have on the 2400 mile trip I take this year. I will return my current box back to the store for a refund and I scored another core for $50 on facebook marketplace. When all is said and done, I should only be out about $230.

At my work we have a brand new mopar under hood fuse box for a 3rd gen cummins. We ordered it for a customer who ended up not needing it and we are unable to return it. It's the big L shaped box with a knob in the middle. My boss would rather not write it off and let me pirate fuses and relays from it. He's not terribly picky about the price but would rather get something for it as opposed to nothing. I told him I would ask here if anyone was interested. If anyone is interested and would like more info I can get some pics of it on tuesday.

Next year I have to haul a 25' camper half way to NY, about 1200 miles. I'll be curious to see how I do then vs the empty return trip back. I'll be followed by a 1994 GMC with a 350 pulling a truck bed trailer. I'm sure I'll be stopping for gas a lot more than diesel.

Twice now I have made the trip from Kuna to the Oregon coast(Depoe Bay) which is just over 500 miles on one tank of fuel. Both times pulling my pop up camper. I was usually just under 1/4 tank when I got there. The first time, the truck was stock except for the stacks, the second time was with my current setup.

I'll check my wiring, I remember having to fiddle with wire positions when I first tried HID bulbs too.

Like this? I used to have a strip on the back of the tool box but I crushed it as well hauling stuff.

Ok, I got them clocked at 3 and 9 and I notched the rings. The low beams are soooo much better now, it looks like your pics. I still have no high beams at all though. I'm not terribly concerned about it as I got used to using my light bar for high beams as the last set of lights only got worse with high beams. Took a trip through town and nobody flashed me but I feel I need to adjust them down just a bit.

Ok, I'll try clocking them at 3/9 tomorrow, I thought about notching the rings as well, it does seem to slightly tweak the angle of the bulb.

I had a similar strip on my truck a couple years ago. It's a really tight fit when the tailgate is opening and closing. I hauled some gravel in my truck and a few rocks got down there and got pinched and cracked the housing allowing moisture into the light. It still worked but sometimes it would turn on when I wasn't using the truck. I would walk by the window at work and notice the strip all lit up. I would like to get another one someday. I do have the 60" amber strips under my doors that act as marker lights and sequential signals. They have an access light(white) function as well but I haven't wired it up yet.

I got my new housings and the bulbs installed...I have no high beams and they cast really irregular shaped patterns. I'm wondering if they sent me the wrong bulbs. The box had the right part number on it but being in the auto parts industry, I see misboxed stuff all the time. I haven't adjusted anything yet, fingers wouldn't work in the cold. Did you have to clock your bulbs a certain way? I just turned them until they stopped, LED portions are facing are in the 12 and 6 position.

These are going in regular housing. I was concerned about the 9004/9007 difference but in reading the description it said this "9007/HB5 are Dual Beam Bulbs which can achieve Low Beam and High Beam function in one individual bulb, NOT fit vehicles which take separate bulbs for Low Beam and High Beam". . There were a couple reviews from other 2nd gen owners saying they worked great as well. I figure for the price it's worth a shot.

I just ordered new housings and them fancy LED bulbs. We'll see if I like them or if I have a new mortal enemy.

I have the same mirrors and would like the lights to do both functions as well.

I may have to give those a try. I plan on going back to OEM housings soon, tired of playing with the aftermarket units that are only marginally better or much worse.

Definitely call first, I called the closest dealer and they said it would take 2-3 hours and was gonna cost about $200. The next dealer I called said 15-30 minutes and $40. The extra drive time was well worth the money saved.

Ooh, I can reply again, tried awhile back but nothing would happen. I got them installed, came with this nifty little bracket that makes attaching the valves to a square tube real easy so I attached them to my headache rack near my compressor. I had one leaker which was my fault, neglected to fully insert the line in one of the valves.

Well I'm glad I asked, I'll leave them separate then. Still gonna run them up to the front of the bed so I don't have to uncoil my air hose every time I need to fill them. One other question though. When not in use, do I just leave the bags empty or should I leave some air in them?

My Glowshift gauges are over 5 years old now and still work great. If they do fail I probably will step up to some isspro gauges.

When I installed mine, and fired the truck back up the low fuel light was on. I made it to a gas station without any issues. The truck will run fine below 1/4 tank but will lose prime over night in my drive way which has a slight angle. One bump of the key primes it right back up though. I try not to go lower than 1/4 in any of my vehicles though, I'm an expect the worst kind of guy and my 67 mustang has bitten me twice with the sender sticking at 1/4 tank and letting me run out of fuel. I have since replaced the sender but still give it the evil eye every time it gets that low and make sure I stop for fuel.

I ordered a Firestone air spring kit for my truck, installation appears pretty straight forward. I had a question about the air hose routing though. I got the optional "T" fitting as I mostly need the kit for leveling while pulling a trailer. I want to mount the schrader valve near my tool box on the passenger side of the truck close to my compressor for quick easy filling. Will it matter that the air lines from the bags to the "T" are different lengths or do I need to have them equal with a central meeting point?

I never even got to check. He cleaned the filter and an intake sensor and his buddy cleared the codes before he brought it over. It had more power but he says it still isn't as strong as it was. He had bought a new K&N filter to put in it but I advised him against it. His job has him off road 90% of the time and I see how much dust passes through those things with city driving.