Sycostang67

The width of the wheels, plus the back spacing and offset is going to determine whether or not you have any rubbing issues. I am running a 295/70R17, I was using an original style 3rd gen dodge wheel with no issues. I put the same tires on a set of 17x9 wheels with more offset and back spacing and suddenly the tires were rubbing my side steps and inner fender liner on one side. I ended up getting different steps that I like better anyhow and doing a 1.5" leveling kit to clear all the rubbing. Find the wheels you like and get the BS and offset specs then do some googling. I recently got a set of wheels and tires for my 67 mustang and spent about a month searching forums and websites to verify the dimensions would work on the car. The fact that it was an internet order so no trial fitments, made it even more pertinent that I had all my ducks in a row.

I got the driver side finished up this morning. Thanks for the heads up on the hammering, it stopped me from wasting too much time trying to figure out another way to get that lower joint out. I can totally see what you mean about the weird angles now. I cleaned everything up and put a little anti-seize on the hub edges as I'm sure that will go next still felt really tight for now. I'll get the other side done next weekend, it's still tight but I wanted the worn side tight before my road trip tomorrow. Now I gotta go check fluids and tools.

I actually noticed something was wrong when I would back out of my driveway. When the driver side wheel came down off the curb I would hear/feel a tick. After about a week of this and realizing it wasn't my imagination I jacked up the front end and used a pry bar to wiggle the wheels. It's a very small amount of play, just enough that once again I checked several times to make sure I wasn't imagining it. It's just the one upper joint on the driver side, everything else is still tight. I got four new ball joints last week and will rent the press this weekend. Hopefully I can get them all or at the very least the driver side done on Saturday as I may have a 12+ hour road trip on Sunday to pick up a 1979 Firebird for a friend.

I'm pretty good at keeping the tires rotated, every oil change for the most part. It's about due again but miles have been accumulating much slower since the rain stopped and I drive the mustang as often as possible. I remember my F-250 had alignment sleeves in the axles where the ball joints were inserted. That also made alignments more expensive and time consuming.

I noticed last week I had a tiny bit of play in one of my ball joints. I plan to replace all four in the next week or two. I wasn't sure if I would need an alignment afterwards or not.

They will probably be good for little cars like that, driven by people who hate cars and will never know how to change a tire....or drive properly. Check out these crazy tires I'm running now.

There was a plug that goes in that data link, just a cap really to keep dirt out of it. Maybe zip tie a small plastic bag over the end to keep the connection clean should you need to use it in the future.

It's probably hit or miss no matter where you go. Oreilly's was carrying Borg Warner, now it's Standard or Blue Streak...or at least that's what the boxes say now. Many years ago I had to buy a multi-function switch for my 93 F-250. My wiper delay was inconsistent. The first switch I installed only had one speed for the wipers, no high and no delay, only low speed. I got another switch from another store, that one caused my squirters to run constantly when the ignition was on. I drove to a 3rd store and finally got a switch that worked. Thankfully the switch was easy to replace as I tested them in the parking lot before I left. I don't think the manger at the last store believed I had gotten 2 bad switches in a row and put the second one I returned back on the shelf instead of in the warranty pile.

I have a brand new metal detector, had it 2-3 years now and I think I turned it on once to see if it worked. I really want to take it camping but I always forget.

My first vehicle was a 1983 F-100 with a 4.9 and a 4spd. I used that to haul my second vehicle home, my 1967 Mustang which I still have 23 years later. It took me two years to get the title and even though my father told me not to put money into it until I had it, I couldn't help myself. I at least had to get it running so I could play with it on back roads. I even used it in a movie a friend and I had to make in high school.

Those would be her snow leopard socks. She's crazy about cats, you should see her jeep.

Unfortunately I'm not talented enough to build something like that, I had to pay for one that was already built.

I'm glad I did the conversion, the bigger brakes with my bigger tires make the truck stop like it's got OEM sized tires again.

The gal whose car I was working on her boyfriend had his finger partially de-gloved by a ring. He said maybe you'll get a cool scar like me.

I made a huge noob mistake yesterday. I went to look at a friends 2012 Focus that was initially a coolant leak but had turned into a no crank issue as well. I verified the relay was good then checked the starter. I noticed the nut that retains the power wire was missing, held it down and car started. I thought lets just remove the nut from the other post so we can find a matching one. I grab my ratchet, reach up to the post, stop and think "I should disconnect the battery...no, I'll be fine" . I proceed to loosen the nut only to have the wrench flop over, connecting the power, the wrench and my wedding ring to a ground. After the fireworks, I realize my wedding ring is REALLY hot and thankfully easy to remove . Now I have some missing skin, blisters and a small electrical burn where my wedding ring once sat. My wedding ring also had 2 spinning rings around the outside that are now fused in place. Never again will I think I'm too old to relive mistakes of the past. Thankfully it only burned slightly for about an hour and has been pain free since, but it sure looks like crap.

The spring rod on my seat did the same thing, worked it's way over and stabbed the middle seat. I also had to readjust my steering wheel and mirrors due to increased height.

I had thought about getting cheaper mirrors on Amazon, but a lot of the reviews complained of shaking. I got the 1Aauto mirrors and they jiggle a bit when you shut the door but nothing is blurry when rolling down the road. I really want to upgrade to the power folding/turn signal 4th gen style mirrors now from 1Aauto. They weren't an option when I got mine a few years ago.

My straw is close enough to the bottom of the tank that I can slide 2 stacked quarters under it. It's been about 3 years now and I can run my tank low enough to trigger the low fuel light. I don't like to do that, but I can. The only thing I notice is that when I do have less than 1/4 and my truck sits overnight on an inclined surface, I sometimes need to bump the starter to run the pump for a few seconds to get it to fire up. I don't like any of my vehicles getting below 1/4 so it really hasn't been an issue.

The clip that attaches it to your vent is a little to long to start with, it has an extension piece on it. Remove that little extension and it should fit nice and snug to the vent. Mine doesn't rattle or wobble at all. I do keep trying to see if I can hear it whistle though.

I got it from the car throttle shop, the rotor even spins, lol. I also ordered some extra refills for later. https://store.carthrottle.com/collections/air-fresheners/Boostnatics+Air-Fresheners

I special ordered a new turbo for my truck. I'm not sure how mush boost it's making, I don't have a gauge capable of measuring the output yet.

Awesome, I can do that. Thanks for the help. Good idea on the connector too, I doubt I will be moving the tool box around, but you never know.

Here is what I'm working with.

The top half of the box has a power cord coming off, the bottom half has a plug for an extension cord, both are 3 prong. I won't be moving it at all, I made a space against the wall that has an outlet nearby.

To celebrate not owing thousands of dollars in taxes this year, the wife let me use some of the money I had saved to get a new tool box. It has electrical outlets and a drawer for charging power tools. Apparently I have to ground both halves of this thing. I have already purchased the required wire and the instructions tell me where to attach to the tool box. I need to know where to attach the other ends of the wires. I have seen people run ground wires to the screws holding the outlet trim plates on before. Is that safe to do or should I run the wires into the outlet and to the ground wire in the wall?