Sycostang67

Yeah, mine was doing the same thing, new motor and resistor and no problems since.

Would the crack be partially responsible for my lack of boost lately? After I did the turnbuckle on the waste gate I could get 30-33 psi, but lately I'd been having trouble getting higher than 26psi.

My luck just keeps getting better, apparently there was a crack in my exhaust housing. There's more money I don't have. I probably could have gotten a better turbo by now.

Daily driver?

Those are nice, would be really handy working on my car.

I went to remove my filter to look at doing the lockup switch the other day. I noticed an oily mess on the firewall and around the A/C components. At first I thought my A/C was leaking though it still works great. I checked the turbo and noticed a fair amount of shaft play and the blades are turning black and sticky. It also appears oil is seeping out the back side of the housing as well which is where I think the mess came from. I was really hoping to do something different with the turbo when this happened but unfortunately I am strapped for cash as I can barely afford the rebuild. I dropped the turbo off at Master Tech in Boise as they came highly recommended and we also do a lot of business with them through my other job. Hopefully I'll have it back Monday or Tuesday. At least the weather is nice for the next week and I can enjoy driving my mustang for a bit.

That's not a bad idea.

It turns out my BIL still had a weather proof solar charger he used to keep his old tractor battery charged. He sold the tractor so I put the charger on the trailer for now. It's parked in an open field, so sunlight all day long. The plug hangs just outside the battery box so we can unplug it and go. If he want's it wired into the trailer, I figure he can do it since he is much more experienced in the electrical aspect than I am. I finished installing the winch, tool box and battery box, everything should be good to go next time we need it. I like this trailer more than mine, it's much lighter. Mine was about 3500lbs empty, I think this one is about 2k, can hardly tell it's there when empty.

I'm getting rid of my flatbed and installing my winch and tool box on my brother in laws brand new trailer. This new trailer has a break away battery system for the brakes and according to the description, charges through the trailer plug. I had the winch battery setup to charge through the plug on my old trailer but it was the only battery. Can I just tap into the new trailer harness and run a charge wire to the winch battery so both get charged? I have a feeling it won't be that simple, but that's why I'm here. I'll verify the break away is charged by the tow vehicle as I know not all do. Would it perhaps just be easier to get a small solar charger for the winch battery to keep it maintained?

I didn't think to check with a mirror, but where I live, that kind of nature isn't around to get into my system. I'll definitely check when I do the entire dash though. Swapping the parts was really easy, took me about an hour but that involved swapping the cage and plug and cleaning the built up dirt off the cage as well. Having that fan going full blast was really appreciated during my camping trip when outside temps were over 100*. Before the truck would get cool but I would still sweat pretty good. Now I actually have to turn the A/C down after a bit.

Yeah, just had a sliver or 2 of ceramic come off while I was removing it. The box was pretty clean too, only had one pine needle in the cage.

Sure, no problem. I imagine this is original as I think the fan was as well, 17 years and 226k miles.

Got a new fan and resistor switch installed today and everything is working great right now. I went through all the switch settings and it never shut off like before. The old motor was fairly difficult to spin, I'm surprised I got any strong air from it at all. All the exposed metal on the old resistor was nice and green as well. Now I shouldn't fry in the 100+ temps we'll be getting this week.

What about the switch? Today I was checking the various speeds on the switch and when I got to low, the fan stopped and I couldn't get it going again. It started back up on it's own about a minute later. Could that still be the resistor? I am getting ready to sell my flatbed, planned to use some of the proceeds for a new dash core, top, bezel, and heater core/fan. I guess I will add the resistor to the list. Hopefully it can hold out another month. EDIT: I just realized those 2 parts can be replaced without dash removal, lol. I guess I'll grab them in a day or two. Still, do you think the switch could have anything to do with it or is it most likely just the other 2 things?

Lately I've noticed my fan works really good sometimes and then other times it just doesn't feel like giving 100%. Sometimes I can feel the air on my face sitting back in my seat and other times I have to be right next to the steering wheel to feel it. It usually changes after the truck has been stopped and then re-started. I've never noticed it to change while driving. Is there anything I can check or am I too assume the fan will be exiting stage left eventually?

As a kid my family spent a summer cruising the country in an Astro van pulling a 25' camper. Dad took the van to get some supplies and left us sitting in the camper. A wind storm came in and pushed that camper up on 2 wheels, scared the hell out of all of us.

I wish I could leave well enough alone, they called to see if I would test drive a truck for them for $7500 and my fat mouth opened and said I could put a new engine in the jeep for $2500. Why do I keep creating work for myself. They are currently discussing the option.

Well it gets worse, so much worse. Today I finished replacing the entire cooling system and sent the young man on his way. About 2 hours later he calls me and says the motor made a knocking sound like something was in the fan and then stalled and he's afraid to run it. I run down there, he fires it up and it sounds like someone clubbing a block of metal. I look down and see a hole in the side of the oil pan where a rod had pushed through and oil all over the firewall. The motor only has 105k miles, and I know they kept the oil changed, hell it was the only real maintenance they ever did. The kid was getting it changed every month regardless of mileage until I told him to wait at least 3k miles between. He's pretty sure he wants to get rid of it, but if he puts a new motor in everything will have been rebuilt except the front axle.

I'm working on my brother in laws 1994 Jeep Wrangler. The water pump bearings failed. I was draining the coolant and popped the radiator cap off and thought I saw little metal slivers inside it. When I got the pump off, I realized why. The bearing allowed enough movement for the impeller to scrape the inside of the housing as well as let the pulley rub the outside. Looks like I'll be flushing the motor really well and changing the rest of the cooling system. Radiator is pretty gunked and leaks a bit so it needs replaced anyhow. This poor kid can't catch a break either, in the last 200 miles he had to get the rear axle completely rebuilt when a C-clip broke and destroyed the gears. Right before that the transmission had to be rebuilt when one of the rings fell apart and jammed in the 3-4 cluster locking it in neutral.

I think the highway district and the glass companies do the same thing out here with the "chip sealing" projects they do every summer. Oh look, suddenly thousands of cars need new windshields.

I ran the Edge EZ on level 3 for about 6 months, and then a Edge comp on level 5 for another year with a stock transmission. I drove pretty tame though, never really pushed it and always dropped to level 2 when towing. The month before I scheduled to have my transmission built I went a little crazy though. It still worked perfectly but the shop said I had accumulated some junk in the pan. The transmission had 213k miles on it when I took it in.

What they said, I ran the cables for my CTS2 screen and backup camera through that gap as well.

I had to do that as well. I tried to fix mine but the wire had pulled out of the buckle assembly. I spent $5 at the junkyard for a new buckle and the light has been off ever since. It was amazing how many trucks didn't have the seat belt sensors though. I went through 20 trucks and only 2 of them were equipped.

A friend of mine had that issue albeit with a smaller truck. He was the lead surveyor at his company and had been using the same mid 80's 3/4 ton suburban for 20+ years, no A/C, and AM radio and he liked it that way. They fought to put him in a newer truck and when they finally did, 2 weeks after having it some kid stole it from his driveway. The kid dumped all the equipment in an alley and then crashed into a tree when the cops chased him. The company gave him his old suburban back a few days later.

I've been driving through my sisters fields for 3 years without issue.