Sycostang67

When I left work today, truck worked fine. I came to a stop after exiting the interstate and when I went to go the truck seemed real sluggish. Everything felt fine once I was rolling, but moving from a dead stop the truck would smoke and slowly start rolling. Once I got closer to home I realized I had no first gear, even if I put the selector in low, it still starts in 2nd. The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop back in August, has maybe 10k miles and supposed to be good for 650hp. I'm not rough on my truck and haven't even towed with it yet. It does have a 3 year 100k mile warranty so I'm not worried about getting it fixed. I am curious if there is anything outside of the job they would warranty that could cause this issue. I did a little research and saw a relay I can check, but stuff like the solenoids or bands would fall into the warranty category.

The Edge boxes do boost fool, even the EZ. The boost elbow is why you need the boost fooling though. The elbow lets you get more boost than stock(18-20psi) usually to around 30psi. The truck will throw a code though if it goes over 20psi, hence the boost fooling from the Edge box to make the truck think everything is normal. Without the pump tapped though, I doubt you are gaining any extra power above level 3. Tap the pump and get an elbow, they run about $20 I think, you won't regret it.

Just in case you think we were the only ones to get hosed with crappy plastic, here is a pic of a door handle I replaced on my friend's 2005 Jeep grand cherokee. This was the 2nd handle I replaced, the plastic breaks like a graham cracker.

The wiring on my seat belt had pulled out of the buckle. I went and got another one from the scrap yard for a few bucks. It took awhile to find it as most of the trucks in there didn't have the sensor.

I know mine is cracked by the head light switch, thankfully there are still 2 screws holding it in. Every now and then when I pull for the fog lights it rocks around. I have a hard cover on the dash which looks ok, but I really need a new bezel as mine has one remaining clip on the left side and a metal bracket I made and some gorilla tape on the right.

Mine is Patriot blue, or as I call it, anti-terrorist blue. Color isn't a huge issue for me when shopping for vehicles but I am sick of brown, had 4 brown trucks, rather not have anymore.

Those look pretty cool, added to my list for my next order.

The funny thing about ECM's, when someone orders one through our store, at least in the commercial department. The commercial managers have learned to order 2-3 at a time because the 1st one rarely works.

I'm on my first set of coopers, the STT Pro's and I'm amazed at how quiet they are considering how aggressive the tread is.

The Toyo's, I have about 7k miles on my Coopers and they still look new.

Someone mentioned it could be handy for winter driving too, if say you are climbing a hill and would prefer to lug the engine to keep power down as opposed to the transmission dropping a gear and possibly loosing traction.

A set of the first gen Toyo A/T's was the first set of tires I ever wore out before replacing them early for a new setup. I think I got about 45k out of them on an F-250. I've had 2 sets of the A/T 2's and only put 10k on each set before I sold the truck with the first set and then went to different wheels/tires on this truck. They are "supposed" to go 30% longer than the first gen tires. After 10k miles though, they still looked pretty good.

I never even saw any of the 18's, pretty much just 20's. A few sets of those right now for $4-500 with worn tires and scratches. Don't forget to up size your spare as well. I almost forgot and decided to hold off on the brake upgrade until I had a 17" spare as well. I had new tires at the time, but life likes to kick me when I'm not looking.

It took me 3 months to find a set of the 3rd gen wheels for $200 or less, most people wanted $400+. The cheapest set of 4th gen wheels I saw was $900. I didn't really care for the way they looked though, too shallow and seemed to stuff all the tire under the truck. I'm in no way a fan of this "stancing" everyone seems to love, but the wheels got to stick out just a bit.

Sorry, I had too. That was how most of my friends fixed car problems when they were young. If it makes a noise, turn the radio up.

You could just get a louder radio.

Isn't there a sticker on the fender telling you which battery to jump from? I would go check but it's cold and it's my day off so I'm not getting dressed.

They make the dodge positive cable like ford does. They are bit pricey, I paid about $80 for all three of my cables. Mine are OEM size though, I imagine those are a bit bigger. I do have a lifetime warranty if they fall apart, just got to keep them clean.

I went to Napa and had them make me new cables. I wasn't aware at the time that the 2 piece positive cable was normal. Having just owned 2 IDI fords, I thought it was hacked together like that. The condition of the terminals also helped reinforce that feeling. I had my new positive cable made like the ones on my Fords, one long cable.

When my dad made dump runs with our little trailer, I was probably 14-15, he would have me back the trailer in as he wasn't very good at it. My Dad backed into our house once. I also spent a lot of time driving my mothers truck backwards and forwards down our driveway before they built the circle around the house.

I actually got a set of 4 of these for $40 on amazon, other 2 are on my headache rack. So far I am having good luck with the Auxbeam lights, 4 cubes on the back and a 30" bar on the front. I had a 20" bar but gave it to a friend and it still works great with no moisture going on 2 years now. The wife got me a Mictuning bar for christmas, gonna see how that one does. I can totally understand that, but I drive better backwards than I do forwards so it's never been an issue.

I'm just running a couple $20 Auxbeam cubes triggered by reverse lights with a relay.

I still don't hardly recognize your truck without those old aluminum wheels. Those OEM steels do look a lot better though, offset is nicer too.

I see, you are right, I can't find the 2 piece Ram style cover either, just the generic one piece deals. I found the 2 piece version for the 17" Ram dually wheels, but not the 16's.

No kidding, that's painful to look at. Really, no leveling kit? The first pic certainly looks leveled, either way it looks good. I guess if the paint job was crummy before, may as well redo the majority of it right. I miss the two-tone paint scheme's, seems like manufacturers got lazy. I could be wrong, but I think ford was the last one doing it on a regular basis, up into the late 90's. I may have an old sales catalog from 1995 when I got my 2nd truck, I remember it showing all the different two-tone options.