Sycostang67

But Mike, cool is everything! I'm fairly impressed with the Toyo MT's we put on the wifes Jeep last summer. We haven't had any issues in the rain or snow, it handles as well as the OEM Duelers it came with. The wider wheels drastically improved braking stability as well. That wrangler would get real squirrely on a hard stop with the skinny stockers. My coopers are great off road, silent on the street but sketchy on the ice. I've always run larger tires without much issue. My last F-250 IDI with the TTB, I replaced everything with quality parts, maintained them and didn't beat on them like they owed me money. That truck maintained it's alignment perfectly the whole time I owned it. I like to build sturdy then treat it like fine china...as opposed to my brother who builds cheap then flogs it to death. That being said, it's still a truck and does what it's built for, I tow and haul every chance I get.

On the true setting, it starts at zero and stays at zero after attaching leads.

The truck cool enough to be a toy even if it's not 100%.

So I have my new meter, and I can't get any reading, the numbers bounce around until I attach the leads to the truck and it zero's out and holds there. Do I have this thing set right?

I couldn't find a capable meter locally so I ordered one, should have it Monday. Really, wow, it doesn't take much does it. I've yet to do a burnout, best I've done is a little slippage trying to get across a busy street. I guess slipping on ice/snow would count as well.

I went over to my sisters house to borrow her husbands multi-meter. He has a fancy one that wouldn't work at all, gave the same -1 reading no matter what setting it was on. He had a smaller one that was acting weird, but only showed .003-.005 at idle with nothing else on, turned on lights and heater, no change, tested at 2k rpm, got the same reading. I'm going to buy myself a new multi-meter tomorrow just in case. I should also mention that I had installed one of those noise isolators years ago when I thought I was having lockup issues and then forgotten about it. I did remove it before testing and won't be putting it back on.

I went and checked the AC noise, I think I have the wrong multi-meter though. I don't think mine registers low enough as I think I had to borrow one last time, but this is what I got with mine.

I took my truck in yesterday morning and of course it was working fine on the way there. This was the first time I had driven it since the issue happened. They pulled 3 codes from the truck P0500-No vehicle speed signal detected. P1682-Charging system voltage to low. P1763-Gov. pressure sensor voltage too high. They cleaned the VSS and all connections there and on the transmission as one plug had some fluid in it. They took the truck out, got it nice and warm but couldn't get anything to duplicate the issue. My speedometer never quit working, so that code confuses me. The voltage code makes some sense though. A couple weeks ago on my way home, the check gauges light came on and my volt gauge had dropped to 8. My Edge display was still showing 14+ volts though. When I got home I put the volt meter on the alternator and it was showing 14+ volts as well. I turned the truck off and started it up and the gauge had started working again. I plan on checking for AC voltage today, waiting for it to warm up a bit outside. Should I consider replacing the alternator even if the AC noise checks out ok?

I called them this morning and got it scheduled. I just wanted to make sure there was nothing outside the transmission that could cause the issue. I'd hate to take it back just to find is was a simple relay in the fuse box or something else equally trivial.

When I left work today, truck worked fine. I came to a stop after exiting the interstate and when I went to go the truck seemed real sluggish. Everything felt fine once I was rolling, but moving from a dead stop the truck would smoke and slowly start rolling. Once I got closer to home I realized I had no first gear, even if I put the selector in low, it still starts in 2nd. The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop back in August, has maybe 10k miles and supposed to be good for 650hp. I'm not rough on my truck and haven't even towed with it yet. It does have a 3 year 100k mile warranty so I'm not worried about getting it fixed. I am curious if there is anything outside of the job they would warranty that could cause this issue. I did a little research and saw a relay I can check, but stuff like the solenoids or bands would fall into the warranty category.

The Edge boxes do boost fool, even the EZ. The boost elbow is why you need the boost fooling though. The elbow lets you get more boost than stock(18-20psi) usually to around 30psi. The truck will throw a code though if it goes over 20psi, hence the boost fooling from the Edge box to make the truck think everything is normal. Without the pump tapped though, I doubt you are gaining any extra power above level 3. Tap the pump and get an elbow, they run about $20 I think, you won't regret it.

Just in case you think we were the only ones to get hosed with crappy plastic, here is a pic of a door handle I replaced on my friend's 2005 Jeep grand cherokee. This was the 2nd handle I replaced, the plastic breaks like a graham cracker.

The wiring on my seat belt had pulled out of the buckle. I went and got another one from the scrap yard for a few bucks. It took awhile to find it as most of the trucks in there didn't have the sensor.

I know mine is cracked by the head light switch, thankfully there are still 2 screws holding it in. Every now and then when I pull for the fog lights it rocks around. I have a hard cover on the dash which looks ok, but I really need a new bezel as mine has one remaining clip on the left side and a metal bracket I made and some gorilla tape on the right.

Mine is Patriot blue, or as I call it, anti-terrorist blue. Color isn't a huge issue for me when shopping for vehicles but I am sick of brown, had 4 brown trucks, rather not have anymore.

Those look pretty cool, added to my list for my next order.

The funny thing about ECM's, when someone orders one through our store, at least in the commercial department. The commercial managers have learned to order 2-3 at a time because the 1st one rarely works.

I'm on my first set of coopers, the STT Pro's and I'm amazed at how quiet they are considering how aggressive the tread is.

The Toyo's, I have about 7k miles on my Coopers and they still look new.

Someone mentioned it could be handy for winter driving too, if say you are climbing a hill and would prefer to lug the engine to keep power down as opposed to the transmission dropping a gear and possibly loosing traction.

A set of the first gen Toyo A/T's was the first set of tires I ever wore out before replacing them early for a new setup. I think I got about 45k out of them on an F-250. I've had 2 sets of the A/T 2's and only put 10k on each set before I sold the truck with the first set and then went to different wheels/tires on this truck. They are "supposed" to go 30% longer than the first gen tires. After 10k miles though, they still looked pretty good.

I never even saw any of the 18's, pretty much just 20's. A few sets of those right now for $4-500 with worn tires and scratches. Don't forget to up size your spare as well. I almost forgot and decided to hold off on the brake upgrade until I had a 17" spare as well. I had new tires at the time, but life likes to kick me when I'm not looking.

It took me 3 months to find a set of the 3rd gen wheels for $200 or less, most people wanted $400+. The cheapest set of 4th gen wheels I saw was $900. I didn't really care for the way they looked though, too shallow and seemed to stuff all the tire under the truck. I'm in no way a fan of this "stancing" everyone seems to love, but the wheels got to stick out just a bit.

Sorry, I had too. That was how most of my friends fixed car problems when they were young. If it makes a noise, turn the radio up.

You could just get a louder radio.