Sycostang67

I used the 3cyl idle at work one day, a coworker came in and said your truck is rattling an awful lot. I told him it was only running on 3 cylinders and left it at that. The next day he comes to me and asks, "is it safe to be driving it like that?" It was then I explained why it was running that way.

That part can be replaced without disassembling the seat. My driver seat was missing that trim piece when I got it. I snagged one from the salvage yard and managed to squeeze it on with only unbolting the bottom section of the belt. The hard part was pushing the shoulder latch through the trim piece.

My first truck was a 1983 F-100, and my father made me haul half that load in the back, wood pellets for our stove. The air shocks barely brought it up an inch. He later filled the bed with compost, it was spilling over the roof and bedsides the whole mile home. Needless to say, the little axle in the truck, 8.8 I believe was not built to handle such abuse. Shortly after the compost, my truck refused to move one day and had to be towed to a shop. They told me the bearings were crushed and had destroyed almost everything else. I'm still not sure why I had to pay to have it fixed.

Good luck to you Mike, I'm sure you'll be back on the road in no time.

Is the brown color of the housing from the turbo getting too hot? My OEM turbo was kind of brown, been that way since I got it so I assumed it was normal. New turbo is nice and silver, still looks new. I always let mine cool down now, saw what happens when you don't in my last turbo. I only put 45k miles on it, don't know how the PO did things.

That's about what mine looked like when I replaced it. I had about 225k miles and plenty of shaft play. My seal was starting to leak as well. I got a new replacement due to a cracked exhaust housing and a miscommunication between the rebuilder and his supplier.

I did something like this to my old IDI. That was much simpler though, just added and on/off switch to the solenoid wire. No point using glow plugs in the summer.

That would be the guy. It's same color as my original so I wouldn't have to swap anything else.

I may have found a good core, fellow forum member is parting out a truck and it appears to have a good core in it. He's going to pull it and let me know for sure and then I'll drive on up to his place in the spring to get it. I did at least get a new bezel which really helped make things look better.

I am running 2 gauges, I have one on the pump itself and the other about a 12" before the VP44. Like you, I already had one gauge but my Edge tuner came with one as well. I figure this way if one fails, I still know if I have pressure or not. I'm not sure about wiring 2 gauges to one sensor, I'm sure the cool kids will let you know if that works or not.

I'd still look for some 3rd gen wheels, the 17's will allow you to run the 3rd gen brakes as well. My truck stops like it did when I had the stock tires on it.

I swapped the cluster in my first truck, a 1983 F-100. I sat on the floor with a drill for an hour running the odometer backwards so it would match the original mileage.

I did some looking, only found the bolt on badges for the 3rd gen and up trucks and cars.

That's definitely helping with the volume increase, it's like an echo chamber under there. I ran my truck that way for 2 days before I got my stacks on and I felt the stacks were quieter than the belly dump.

That was something I had wanted to do to my IDI. I wasn't comfortable venting the CDR to atmosphere but didn't really want it going through the intake either. It smoked far to much, to the point of people telling me the truck was on fire. Venting through the exhaust was an option I considered but then didn't really want all that oil mist in my pipes either. I ended up installing a home built catch can and a custom intake that allowed the fumes to go in after the filter so they weren't soaking up all the oil.

I have been contemplating doing this to my 01, I assume my block would have the same ports. I did it to my 1993 F-250 with the 7.3 IDI. I used wix filter head 24019 though.

I'm at work too, got the music playing as well so I don't hear it perfectly, may have to turn the tunes off so I can get a better listen. At least I know I'm not AS crazy as I thought.

Maybe it's just me, but every time I come to this site, it makes the sound of a chainsaw revving up. It only lasts for 2-3 seconds, I thought it was an advertisement but I have yet to see anything.

I've got a 3 ton orange one....had it so long I don't remember where I got it. It still works good, will lift the front of the truck but won't hold anything for extended periods. I've got plenty of jack stands though.

What wears out in a shock that stops it from working? Obviously a fluid leak would be a good sign, but I've replaced plenty of leak free shocks that just didn't work anymore.

That's good to know. I recently bid on a 1998 1500 and then realized it had the single port dash. If the core is good I plan on swapping it into my truck. If it's not, I'm barely paying scrap price for the truck so I won't be losing any money.

While browsing dash cores on ebay, I have noticed that some dash cores only have the cigarette lighter and not the power port and lighter. The descriptions have stated they are not interchangeable. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Bored at work, here goes. A young man I watch on youtube is having a giveaway, winner has there choice between 2 trucks. I entered because it's fun to play and the merch he sells is of good quality so I have no regrets regardless of the outcome. #1. 1991 W250, standard cab long box. Just replaced the motor and added an OEM intercooler setup, 5spd, other wise stock mechanically. Body is in great shape, paint as well, no rust. He updated the springs and added a leveling kit and the usual 20" wheels and MT tires. The OEM wheels will be supplied if the winner so chooses. Interior is pretty good, no tears or cracks but does need a few misc. bits, has PW, PL. #2. 2018 3500 Laramie longhorn megacab. It has 6k miles, 6.7 cummins, auto, looks like it's leveled with some Hostile wheels. It appears to have dang near every option available. This would be a tough choice for me. I would love to have a new truck as I have never had a new vehicle of any kind before, but having to pay taxes on it worries me and I'm not sure what I would do with my 01. The 1st gen would be nice as a toy and I love having a manual transmission. What would you guys choose if you had the choice?

I'm still on the hunt for a complete dash core. There are several on ebay for $600-$800, all located out east. I hate not being able to inspect something like that in person though. I also hate the thought of spending that kind of money on something that could easily suffer the same fate. I'm currently watching a 1999 1500 on Copart that appears to have a good dash in it. If I can score that for cheap, get what I need and scrap the rest, I could probably break even.

Ouch, that was painful to look at. I too just marked the position of everything and tightened the nut back down to where it was before. My torque wrench only goes to 150lbs. I also used an old idler pulley as a seal driver to install the new seal, it was the perfect size and knocking the bearing out of the center allowed it to clear the pinion shaft. Sometimes I'm glad I never throw old parts away.