Sycostang67

Really needs a bath right now.

That looks clean, nice work.

We compared the harnesses side by side and the same color wires went to the same items on each one. The headlights and marker lights used the same wires on each harness.

Tow strap, ratchet straps, basic hand tools, socket set, extra fluids, funnels, rags, assorted hardware/electrical odd and ends. I went and bought a new yank strap for the winter and it ended up being pretty mild this year, I didn't get to pull anyone out of a ditch.

My friend had a 1974 Firebird, he bought a 1979 Trans Am shell and transferred everything over from the 1974. A big difference is the 74 only had 2 headlights and the 79 has 4. He had been using the 74 harness to run 2 of the 4 lights. He bought a new 79 harness to try and run all 4 lights. The plug at the firewall was different, but the wires were all colored the same so we spliced the old plug on the new harness. We verified the same color wires went to the same lights on both harnesses as well. Setup this way, only the marker lights and turn signals work, none of the headlights will come on. There was power to all the lights(checked with test light, probably should have used voltmeter) and the grounds were good. We put the 74 harness back on and everything still works that way, so we know the lights and switches all still work. Open to thoughts/ideas, other things to check.

This is what I have been using.

I sold my old nerf bars to a guy who had a setup used on OTR trucks, so he had 18 sensors to play with. He had them on his truck and all his trailers. He said he had used this site before, I should have gotten his username.

Oh, I see now, I only have the single over loads.

I'm about to hit 220k miles, getting about 18mpg round trip to work, 16mpg around town and 14 towing. I got my truck with 178k and only things I had to replace were the starter, batteries, rear brakes and one TRE. I replaced everything else because I wanted to.

I got my trailer tires online, about $60 each from Amazon. Tire store wanted $180 each and since I needed 6 tires, my choice was obvious. They are chinese tires, but DOT approved. My trailer tires wear out rather quickly being a triple axle, lots of scrubbing on turns, so I didn't see the point in spending big money on something that won't live long anyhow.

That's what I have on mine.

Scrolling through craigslist and came across this gem. I can feel the ocd part of my brain scratching the back of my eyeballs. I'd like to buy it just so I can relocate that axle. https://boise.craigslist.org/cto/d/1995-dodge-ramx4-quad-cab/6499453663.html

If you change PS fluid at 30k without a filter, would you extend that interval with a filter?

I wonder how that guy sees anything at night, the lights can't be illuminating much more than 6' in front of the truck. Maybe a couple more if he cranks the adjustment all the way.

Nice, I've had a poster of that car up in my garage for years.

I have about 8k miles on them right now, still look new. I'm still getting a solid 18mpg even with extra winter idling. Obviously I could be doing better with smaller tires, but I'm still getting 4mpg more than my ford so I am still quite happy.

But Mike, cool is everything! I'm fairly impressed with the Toyo MT's we put on the wifes Jeep last summer. We haven't had any issues in the rain or snow, it handles as well as the OEM Duelers it came with. The wider wheels drastically improved braking stability as well. That wrangler would get real squirrely on a hard stop with the skinny stockers. My coopers are great off road, silent on the street but sketchy on the ice. I've always run larger tires without much issue. My last F-250 IDI with the TTB, I replaced everything with quality parts, maintained them and didn't beat on them like they owed me money. That truck maintained it's alignment perfectly the whole time I owned it. I like to build sturdy then treat it like fine china...as opposed to my brother who builds cheap then flogs it to death. That being said, it's still a truck and does what it's built for, I tow and haul every chance I get.

On the true setting, it starts at zero and stays at zero after attaching leads.

The truck cool enough to be a toy even if it's not 100%.

So I have my new meter, and I can't get any reading, the numbers bounce around until I attach the leads to the truck and it zero's out and holds there. Do I have this thing set right?

I couldn't find a capable meter locally so I ordered one, should have it Monday. Really, wow, it doesn't take much does it. I've yet to do a burnout, best I've done is a little slippage trying to get across a busy street. I guess slipping on ice/snow would count as well.

I went over to my sisters house to borrow her husbands multi-meter. He has a fancy one that wouldn't work at all, gave the same -1 reading no matter what setting it was on. He had a smaller one that was acting weird, but only showed .003-.005 at idle with nothing else on, turned on lights and heater, no change, tested at 2k rpm, got the same reading. I'm going to buy myself a new multi-meter tomorrow just in case. I should also mention that I had installed one of those noise isolators years ago when I thought I was having lockup issues and then forgotten about it. I did remove it before testing and won't be putting it back on.

I went and checked the AC noise, I think I have the wrong multi-meter though. I don't think mine registers low enough as I think I had to borrow one last time, but this is what I got with mine.

I took my truck in yesterday morning and of course it was working fine on the way there. This was the first time I had driven it since the issue happened. They pulled 3 codes from the truck P0500-No vehicle speed signal detected. P1682-Charging system voltage to low. P1763-Gov. pressure sensor voltage too high. They cleaned the VSS and all connections there and on the transmission as one plug had some fluid in it. They took the truck out, got it nice and warm but couldn't get anything to duplicate the issue. My speedometer never quit working, so that code confuses me. The voltage code makes some sense though. A couple weeks ago on my way home, the check gauges light came on and my volt gauge had dropped to 8. My Edge display was still showing 14+ volts though. When I got home I put the volt meter on the alternator and it was showing 14+ volts as well. I turned the truck off and started it up and the gauge had started working again. I plan on checking for AC voltage today, waiting for it to warm up a bit outside. Should I consider replacing the alternator even if the AC noise checks out ok?

I called them this morning and got it scheduled. I just wanted to make sure there was nothing outside the transmission that could cause the issue. I'd hate to take it back just to find is was a simple relay in the fuse box or something else equally trivial.