Sycostang67

I saw one guy solve that problem by stacking 2 grid heater delete spacers and getting studs cut to length to bolt it all down.

If you are missing all that stuff, there is a harness with new switches you can get on Amazon for $35. It's for the overhead console without the data display but it can still be used though. I just cut off the plug and spliced it into my harness, had new switches and sockets. The only down side is that it's mopar, so most likely the same crummy quality. I don't use the map lights though other than when they automatically come on so I figure they will last longer and a least my lenses don't rattle anymore. I also put LED bulbs in mine so I wouldn't have to mess with them at all.

I'm in the same boat right now, my head light switch is floating behind the dash and my HVAC controls are barely holding on. I keep watching for a dash core on ebay within 500 miles which is about a tank of fuel. I'd rather spend a day and $120 in fuel to pick it up than $4-500 to have it shipped. I'd rather see it in person first anyway to make sure it's in good shape. Who knows what will happen during shipping.

Mine are N-Fab, they offer no protection from road debris but are real handy for getting in the truck and getting in my tool box. I just installed them this year so I have no idea how they will hold up to the weather.

I haven't had anymore issues with the knocking and I have both non slotted rotors on now. We surmised there must have been some kind of fluke in the machining process. Dennis, the guy who sells these kits says he orders 2000 rotors at a time and has only had 8 people experience this problem. He offered to send me new rotors or reimburse me for the ones I had purchased. As I am tired of taking the wheels apart, I opted for the reimbursement. I could probably get the other rotors turned and use them but the car works so I am happy for now.

Wow, my 1986 F-250 had a system like that but my 1993 F-250 didn't. I figured a better way had been discovered. I didn't know they used those on Dodge trucks as well.

Mine is always full to the bottom of the threads. Speaking of oil changes, I know what I need to do this afternoon.

I accidentally started my truck with one of the filter head ports open. That was a geyser for sure, didn't get to celebrate like Jed Clampett though, just went into panic mode trying to shut it down.

I had a pin hole leak form on the rear line on my mustang this spring. I cut the line on the hole and put a compression fitting on and it's held great all year.

I've got a low stall with stock injectors and no issues.

I did this swap early this year, I was pretty surprised at the difference it made.

I replaced the side that was knocking with a non slotted rotor, knock is currently gone, will continue driving to see if it stays that way. If does then I will swap out the other rotor as well. The car isn't pulling either way so I didn't see an immediate need to change the other one yet. If this doesn't work I can at least return one rotor.

Getting the bezel off without breaking the dash or the bezel is the real trick. My bezel is currently held on by 1 factory clip, a metal brace I made and a piece of gorilla tape. That lense comes off pretty easy when the bezel is out of the way. When you get it off, hit with some mag/aluminum polish, that will help remove any light scratches. I have used clear plastic polish before, but the aluminum stuff just seems to work better. I'll use a half inch paint brush to dust around the needles on the cluster.

I just decided to order some new non-slotted rotors. I'm getting tired of pulling the wheel every 2-3 days to change something. Hopefully that will fix it and I can enjoy my car until winter.

I had wanted to do an HX swap on my truck but couldn't find any when my HY crapped out. I ended up getting a new HY for the cost of a rebuild. I guess my old turbo was pretty wasted as the truck drives totally different now. The boost builds quicker and I no longer sail past 1200*. I'll be keeping a lookout for a used HX, but at least for now the HY is keeping a grin on my face.

I don't believe for a second you made that bumper, you better make me one to prove it. Good looking truck.

That's what mine was doing, I would start the truck and no air movement. It would suddenly come on a mile or minute down the road. It would work on all speeds, but sometimes changing the speed would cause it to stop working. New resistor and motor and no problems since.

It will happen even if the rotor is stone cold though. I live on the corner, I back out of the driveway, pull forward 20' to the stop sign and it's already knocking. I was thinking of having the rotor turned to make sure it's flat and I can look for cracks as well.

I wouldn't want him to send me another kit, I'd rather find the defective part and have him send me a new one of those. Since it's a group of people who have recently purchased this kit, I'm wondering if something from the supplier is messed up. Hoping we can get this figured out before anyone else has to go through it.

I have, he's trying to help as well. It's just that he's sold hundred of these kits with no issues but suddenly 5-6 people are just now having problems. We are all trying some different things to see if we can fix it or find the cause.

Well I just ruled out the wheel weight, I only have one and it doesn't come anywhere near touching the caliper. I guess I will take the rotor in and have it turned just in case. If that doesn't work then I guess I will have to blow an extra $200 on some flat rotors.

I figured I would throw this problem at some fresh eyes. I have a 1967 mustang, I recently did a front disc brake conversion on it with slotted rotors and 4 piston calipers. On the first test drive, there was a knocking sound right away when applying the brakes. Upon investigation I had misread the directions and put the rotors on the wrong sides. Swapping them made the sound go away instantly, however it came back a few days later. This time I swapped the pads around and once again the sound was gone but came back a few days later. I have isolated the sound to the passenger side, at which point I swapped the pads on that side, inner vs outer. The noise went away and came back after a few days. This time I removed the pads, beveled the edges and swapped them again. The same thing happened, no sound then it came back. I have a 4 page thread going on my mustang forum, apparently a few other people are having this problem as well. I even have the gentleman who sold the kits trying to help out as he said he's never had this complaint until recently. The sound can be felt through the pedal and is loud enough to echo off buildings. It's only present when applying the brakes and the frequency will slow down with vehicle speed. I've included a video of it happening. Any ideas you guys might have would be appreciated.

I meant the shaft bluing was most likely from the lack of cool down. The housing cracks were most likely from my heavy foot. I have hit 1350 a couple times with my comp box, hence the reason I got the CTS to warn me before I do that again. I have it set to alarm at 1150 so I know to back off the throttle. I got my turn buckle back on today and was able to keep it on this time. Even though it's the same model turbo, it works much better than the old one, spools quicker and I don't have to push near as hard to hit 30psi.

I got the turbo back on tonight, made sure to pre-lube the heck out of it. Then I let it idle for 15 minutes and took it for a spin. It worked great on the first pull, then my turn buckle fell off, lol. I hopped on my bicycle and went looking for it. I did find it so I'll have to put it on tomorrow when the motor is cool again. I forgot to get my 2 mounting studs from my old housing so they gave it to me to remove them, here are the pics of the cracks. The shaft was a nice shade a dark blue around the middle, presumably from not letting the turbo cool before shut down. It's something I have been doing the last few months after I heard about it and will continue to do with the new turbo.

The cracks, there were 2, were both going into the waste gate opening, one of them was quite large. Due to a mistake made by their supplier, I got a brand new turbo. They said they were checking the price of a new turbo vs exhaust housing and decided to order the housing but were sent a complete turbo instead. They let me have the new turbo for the cost of the rebuild. At least I have a warranty and they said putting my turn buckle back on the waste gate wouldn't void it.