Evan

A transgo shift kit will help alot and up grade a few parts you can get to in the pan. Your probly not going to build much boost past 20psi with either turbo. Stock injectors and the trucks defueiling there anyways

I've read this turbo information because it's interesting and I'll some day upgrade my turbo to better match 7x009 injectors and programmer I read through it all on in back of my mind I dont get the its the turbo causing the bark. I also feel the pump needs addressed soon even if it is the turbo a upgraded turbo is going want more fuel and be pulling from a pump that's barely hanging in there and may still surge. My guess is you were set on buying a turbo before starting the thread as you've got the 500 mark on the brain.

Haha my tricks a baby. I make under 30lbs of boost. Good quick empty and pulls 15k pretty good. Though shes a naughty dirty girl when towing. What's your 95gph pump running at under wot in lockup. I wonder if theres issues there fuel dropping under throttle then coming back up causing a surge on vp44? Om just tossing that out there I have no idea really

What do you guys do with all that power

I to think the triple is putting more load on motor less slip equals more boost and fuel. A triple puts it down to ground it also is hydraulically locking much better than a single. Maybe take the edge off. If you want to keep the smart till you get a turbo Assuming you did a billett input. If not I'd unstick right away to keep from snapping your input shaft.

Mine idles differently after 7x009 injectors. Definitely wouldn't hurt to do a quick lash check maybe without the mirror who needs a timing mark to do valves

Actually my trip meter doesnt work and I'm not sure odometer is. I used Grant's pass as an example because I know it's a 670mile trip. Actual tire height is 34" I have that set but haven't checked odometer to see if it's even reading more than a few hundred miles a tank So yes you are correct I have no concrete numbers

My truck got horrible mileage with 31s and 33s. Power was also falling off. I finally got injectors 7x.009 sac. Factory injectors were so horribly plugged you could see where the fuel was spraying through carbon tracks. Truck power I swear doubled and injectors more than paid for themselves in fuel savings. She now wears 34s has about 2k in bed and still gets good mpg numbers. I dont run it over 1800rpm when empty. I can go to Grant's pass Oregon drive a few Miles here and there then fuel up to come home. That's going a few miles on a tank . Stock injectors were no where near making Grant's past on tank

I'd just do the power mods regardless. Tranny will get down as needed. I've been talking to the guys at power driven diesel in Utah and think if I ever need another tranny that I'll go with one of theres

This where my mechanical gaugevthats mounted in the cab is getting pressure. Many dont recomend hooking close to 44 but I've had no issues this is a snubber then the gauge. It's been like this on the same gauge for 6 or 8 years not exactly sure how many years

The term built can mean so many different things. If it was mine the first thing I'd do is hook a pressure gauge up and drive it.. If it's only making 90-100 psi converter locked at wot I'd then suspect its stock or very near it. I also wouldn't believe it's got a billett converter unless I saw it with my own eyes. If pressure is stock I think I'd order the transgo diesel shift kit, install it and possibly do the valve body mod to be able to lock second gear. Would be a fun project I'm thinking about doing the 2nd gear lock mod on mine because I do a fair amount of towing in 2nd gear

I did alot of research before buying injectors. I went with Sac 7x.009 from ducky fuel injection. I'm not entirely sure why anyone would recommend vco injectors guess I didnt do enough research. Mine have been in for about 6 years 2 years on stock 47re. The last 4ish years they have been on 47re I had a local tranny guy build with all the good stuff. Tranny has no issues with injectors and programmer turned all the way up. And can break into the 20s mpg running empty

Was your factory lift pump on engine block? Some trucks got factory retrofit lots that moved the lift pump to in the tank. I'm curious if you have two pumps running

I have 280k on my 02 it's running factory water pump. Truck runs at 190 in summer even with the clutch fan never kicking on. I'll put a 5.9 impellerd pump on if it ever needs replaced Coolant flowing faster can actually lead to running hotter due to having less time to dissipate heat out of the radiator

I did draw straw and 1/2 to filter. Then saw 2psi on rease at idle when going 1/2" from filter to injection pump. That us with pressure gauge on elbo going into injection

Egr cooler was dumping coolant in my exhaust. I deleted it . Now trunk won't open. Thermostat housing housing was leaking. A.c. doesn't work. Lol but it's cook to drive gets awesome fuel mileage. Mines got 170k on it. I've turned the pump up slightly when I resealed it. I have no complaints

My parts better. Did get delete to fix coolant leak. Now hacking on exhaust Resealed the pump and turned it up a little. They call it the hammer mod

I also cleaned mine with no improvement afterwords

Check electrical rail below the battery for loose connections.

Is your exhaust manifold tight. I installed ducky sac 100s and love them. My truck idles very smooth gets 20mpg or better and has more power then I need. It will push egts up there in a head wind pulling a hill empty. I'd look at rem and injector install. Then park till you do a fuel and why gauge

Many companies are blamed for installer error. Glad you got it figured out.

I think it were mine is get a pressure gauge and see how much pressure it has on accumulator port. If it's holding 90-105lbs at wide open throttle then is adjust pressure so it's 120ish. This is easy to do and will make the clutches hold better. Mine had 270k clutches could have been coaxed for another year or so but my second gear band was gone. I finally ran put of adjustment on it and lost second. My tongue converter was also done. If truck is still driving and shifting through the years well bump g pressure will make the all the clutches hold better I to run cooler and last longer. The transgo shift lit will be in 150lbs ballpark set up on mild side. It wouldn't surprise me if the old seals can't hold that pressure. I'd really do lots of research on doing shift kit on a high mileage tranny. You may also consider running tractor transmission fluid. Or 50/50

How many miles on it. If it's high mileage it may not take well to increased pressures the transgo kit will make. I'd drill passages to the middle of what transgi recommends. Call them they will be able to help out a lot. You can always drill ports bigger so don't go extreme to start. My tranny is fresh with diesel transgo kit and is amazing. I have all billett upgrades and am running 150pressure at wide open and 90 at idle. I actually had builder build my trans mission and it's pretty night and day from stock.

Sac is what I did.