Evan

Feels good. Barely any change. Maybe a slightly firm 1-2 second shift. 2-3 seems about the same. Lock up a noticable amount firmer. Maybe quicker. Truck seems maybe quicker on the bottom end. I'm running about 50/50 tractor transmission fluid and multi vehicle dex3/4 took about 12quarts to refill it.

I have my gauge on a snubbed right at the injection pump. I've got a live pressure gauge plumbed ti the cab. Many dont like fuel running to cab. I've had no issues with this setup for along time. 8 years or so. I'm running big line from the tank to pump through factory filter. MoparMans way probably is the best but this works to.

Few pictures tore down One metal check ball came out without seeing were it went. Finally noticed the tub it went in. Bolted everything together minus filter grrrr. By then feeling confident where things go. Cherry bombs kinda a pain to get lined up. Eclip on park rod was supringly easy. Offcourse as these things go weve got a pair of trucks waiting to get attention after mine. I did learn I need to be more organized. Thought I was being organized but realized I can't tell what's what ounce taken apart. The 3 valve body sections seem to take on different shapes I've been running the older filter. In 98.5 the filter loses half the filter area all the old 727 style like this. You get more plasticky than filter. Can also run alittle higher fluid level. I guess not sure why you couldnt run higher levels with the new filter. Check fluid level in gear with some standing on the brake bought 1500rpm.

I'm not sure what size nozzles are on those injectors. Bigger nozzles than stock will most likely smoke more than stock. I've not noticed my injectors breaking in. I run 2 stroke oil in fuel to hopefully keep carbon from building up on them. I read the thread I would not consider weeping leaking fuel lines a normal or acceptable thing. From my experience most all leaks get worse not better

So bought a kit and tore into. Just to see. I did file a thing yeah a thing. And enlarged ports one size up. Was cool seeing it and seeing what had been done already. A few drill bits bumped up file the thingy. Got the TV throttle stop on the wrong side of the stop bolt. Luckily backing the bolt out allowed the arm to go by. I pulled clip on park rod. Went back together pretty quick. Sitting here thinking on it. I've adjusted band per transgo directions snug it with short wrench and back out 2. Pretty sure it went back to where it was. I love pressure screw were I had it. I was just shy of 150psi at wot before I doubt that will change much. Getting ready to finish and go home. I've dedicated most of today to the truck. Exhaust and tranny fun Cross your fingers.

I screwed up and orderd the 17.5" 4 in 5 out. Oh well it's not straight through like the areo turbine si hopefully it reduced drone. Snagged a pick. I cut the 5" slip fit end off the aero to use as a joint to make fte longer. Along with a 5" 51" muffler that someday I'll find time to put on our kenworth. I'm expecting no huge reduction from the little fte will most likely later ad a muffler behind it. Something smaller than the 51" Donaldson type muffler. Reworking down pipe hanger to get exhaust off the frame so later I can fit a muffler.

MaparMan got it.

Jag. Correct it started slipping so I researched alot and found where some ran tractor transmission fluid. Specifically the sled pull guys. Lots of them run it and can get more pulls out of the trans. Also got to reading where its compatible to mix with automatic transmission fluids. My tranny has a mix of fordf tractor transmission fluid right now and semi synthetic multi vehicle oil. I have a very hard time seeing the fluid on the stick I think fluid level is more critical than fluid used along with proper maintenance. Like mopar man says if it looks tastes and smells bad it was time to service a long time ago. Transmission fluid has such a hard job to do. Its main purpose is to be a fluid in a pump that creates pressure. This pressure applies the clutches this same fluid creates a lubricant on these wet clutches so additives are added to the oil to modify its friction characteristics to help clutches do they're job in the wet environment. But it still needs to be slippery to lube bearings seals and gears. Now it must be capable to do this horrendous job while carrying clutch fibers while in a high heat environment. This is where full synthetics shine. Being slippery and going long intervals before breaking down. Most people dont keep a vehicle now days long enough to break down full syn transmission fluid. It's the 2nd or 3rd owner that runs into trouble. Finds the tranny full of mud I dont go off miles. I'm kinda seasonal I change fluid ever few months. Way way inside 20k miles. If I see color start changing I yank the drain bolt and do a service. I'll probly tinker to with pressure or springs. I serviced a 2008 Toyota rav4 trans the other day I pulled the dipstick right next to the oil level indicators it said no need to change oil. I got a chuckle out of that. Though I was impressed that it had a dip stick.

..

Only the last few years. 3 or 4 Yes it survived a long time I'm at 295 now she finally gave up about 280. Shes had everything from Fordf. To tractor fluid since the build. I wish tractor fluid was red instead of clearish color. I doubt many 47s have seen 280 on any fluid. That's not the fluids fault lack of maintenance kills them more than anything. So on a way full synthetics are killing autos with they're lifetime fluid.

Not sure what issues your having but you might try to eliminate things. Take steering brace off does it go away? Did you purge air from the system? Jack up truck take power steering cap off and steer stop to stop hold it against lock on eat side for a few seconds. I'm not sure if that's the correct way but it did work to purge the air from my steering. Good luck

I've got kyb monomax on the rear and bilstein 5100s on the front. The 5100s replaced a set of lessschwab shocks that were leaking. I haven't be to impressed with 5100s replacing leaky shocks didnt improve ride or handling much. I do have a 1500lb welder right behind the cab at all times and trucks full of tools. I do have a set of kyb monomax bought for the front of the truck. I ended up reworking the mou tshirt on my jeep and used them on it. The improved the jeep handling a ton. This got me to thinking that they're all the same cookie cutter shocks. Though j have a welder on board I feel the truck should feel more planted it does rent wollo around. I've also got 35" tires but on aluminum wheels. And am running a 2" space for looks. I have thought about some 2" coils to stiffen it up some. But fear I'd get more than two inches lift. For now I'll live with it. But will at some point get rid of the bilstein 5100s for fox 2.0s pr something similar. Getting picky I guess. But was glad to swap the jeep over so it can share shocks with the truck and seems to do very good with the truck shocks on it. Crystal drives the jeep alot and commented on how much better it rides with truck shocks on the front. I drive it on trails and it feels like it is planted in the dirt better. It also has no swaybars and does alright on the street

Tires will wear fine. Mines a 1/8 to a 1/4 to passenger side to. Drives me nuts. I'll adjust it then itl ve to the driver side. Lol My set ups alittle different. Sorry shes so dirty 7/8 heims on both ends left and right hand threaded. This tighted the truck up alot. Have a couple inches of length adjustment. Next mod will be 08.5 + steering this is the factory steering upgrade for 03 to 2011 truck I decided against fabbing the steering. My lower track bar was loose and cause the bolt to oval the holes. I drilled to 5/8"

Have you adjusted valves? A loose valve will seat harder and longer as the valves stretches and everything wears. Most cummins I've seen don't get valves adjusted at the 100k or120k Cummins recommends . I'd probly adjust them if they haven't ever been touched. And go from there

Getting a 4-5" fte 28 muffler today. Currently running a 5" aeroturbine. Its horribly loud. I'll add a muffler behind the fte if it doesnt quite it. Shooting to put fte ahead of tranny exhaust hanger. Right where down pipe goes horizontal

Haha made you laugh

I'll have to get one of those wonder boxes Though I bet I still run hot towing power equipment

My stock 47 went to 280k. I babied it with pressure slightly turned up and running on tractor transmission fluid for the last few years. Got to where I couldn't tow with it then it got to were it wouldnt go any more at all. Revived it and hope to take it at least 150. Should take the truck to 450k.

I did the raptor 150 and plumbed from the tank to injection pump. Snake river diesel put together a kit because I had to remove the factory retrofit pump from the tank. My Raptors on the frame rail. I idle at 20 and drop to about 15 pulling a steeper hill towing. Empty the needle doesnt drop very much below 20. It's been on about 8 years I think. I've raised pressure 3 or 4 times to maintain 20 at idle. Very damn nice truck

Damn. I was only leaking a few quarts.

Delo 400 15-40 wix and big filter. I just resealed the vacumn pump. Not a drip and from nose to rear pinion. The rear pinion grrrr that's another story Running delo 400 now for about 150k. Few thousand miles to break over 300. I spent an hour with steam cleaner so grabbed a pic. So excited to not be leaking

My sac 7x009 are smokey towing a 10k machine I'm bellowing black smoke. That was with no boost fooler. With the boost fooler the truck has woke up alot. Egts seem to be down to. The mini x had me running at 1300 just cruising on flat ground. Pulling grades I easily hit 1500 peddling back to 13 is and running rpms much higher. I haven't towed the mini since plugging the boost fooler in. No more defueiling. I'm seeing alot more psi . Could might be cooler but I could see it hotter since I now get to use the 100hp injectors used to defuel just over 20lbs now itl go easy 30 and I've seen 35-38 under a load

I'd recomend sac injectors. I'm running 7x.009 from ducky fuel injection. 7x009 is labeled as a 100hp upgrade. Egts are manageable but watch your egt gauge close while towing Biggers always better I've wonderd if I could have gone bigger. Ounce I upgrade the turbo I could go bigger. I'm seeing 38psi under a load and pedal grades at 65ish at just under 1300deg

In my mind it serves them right. You dont drive 150k and never service your tranny. That would be like never brushing our teeth then bitching when they rot and fall out.

I pull the return line off the cooler or a line off the exchanger on the side of the block since its vertical and run for second to pump the fluid out of the converter. Drop more fluid in it then repeat until fluid comes out clean. Its easier with two people. You dont want to run it dry. Youl need about 16quarts. If done right youl see it or have a helper watching to see when the bad grungy fluid turns to a good red color