Evan

Ok I'm messing with it. I tried sw5 tm5 timing4 d5. Pulls hard off the bottom then all the sudden comes to life at about 1800rpm then pulls harder turbo sound pitch also changes right then. I backed off to timing 3 and it's not as drastic at 1800 rpm I know its pedal position locking timming. Right? I only notice it when I'm on it alittle more on freeway on ramp or on climb accelerating. Other than that I'm not sure I'm really ever using more then half throttle. I've kinda gotten over the coolness of smarty and just driving it now. Timing on 2 I dont notice the point that it locks timing or at least I think that's what I'm feeling. I now have my revo setting tm5 and timming 3 d5. It does smoke if I accelerate on freeway but I rarely do. I cruise at 70 everyone usually passes me. I'm currently on sw6 not sure why but I always end up there. Meant to leave revo settings as they are and jump to sw9 and see if I can tell any difference but I never did. I will tomorrow or sometime soon. Last tank I got 18.3mpg it's looking like with some timming I may get over that with this tank usually if I get half way to 600 miles at only a 1/4 tank burned on fuel gauge I may make 600 plus on the tank Very curious to see what I notice on sw9 with tm5 I've only drove sw9 with default settings once. I turned it back to sw5 right away. Tm6 is pretty wicked down low barely on the throttle at all driving around. I'd like to make all the power from idle to 2200rpm max that will probly take a quad to tune that precise. Ohhh you are right timing at 3 does get rid of quite abit of smoke down low and turbo does light sooner I think. I can leave stop lights with just a haze instead of a cloud of black. I did have a cop behind me the other day stopped on hill waiting for a green light. I'm like **** I'm gona smoke pretty good and i did but didnt get pulled over. Was on sw6 tm5 no timming added. I can see how I would like tuning the quad. I could make changes sitting at a red light. Though smarty is cool to, the most tunable thing I've ever had Thanks for the help and tips

Sw6 is the best catcher # tm4 timing1 d5 . I seem to always be back here I'm on sw6 tm4 t3 d5 now I tried sw5 tm3 t3 d5 just doesnt have the down low grunt I like. Maybe I'll try it again just to make sure I did try it.

Pre boost Manageable but will roll coal without trying hard or taking off on grade. Trailer on smoke is unmanageable. Lower tourqe management number plus timming will reduce smoke. Or are you saying. Sw7 set at tm5 compared to sw5 set at tourge management 5. Each has a different fuel curve with same tm#?

Tried tm4 t3 d5 today. Not near as smokey as tm5 tm2. Feels good off idle still smokey but more manageable than tm5 timing 2. May try timing on tm5 I thought I was done messing with this thing then all the sudden I'm back to picking lottery numbers.

I've had my truck for over 12years. Ran it for a few years severely down on power thinking I was needing a pump soon, did some research talking to blue chip he even thought my pump was the cause. Then somehow I ended up on the phone with ducky fuel injection a few phone calls later a set of 7x09 injectors were on the way. Ohhh my the stock injectors had like a inch thick of black carbon built up on them. The fuel was spraying through thick carbon tracks. I knew instantly the new injectors were going to livin up it up. Ohhh boy did they and they even payed fir themselves in much better fuel mileage. If not wanting a programmer. 7x09, boost fooler and turn buckled waste gait will make plenty of power for towing. I would recommend at least 7x09 Stock or rv injectors seems a waste cause youl later put bigger in My truck pulls grades much cooler with boost fooler and waste gate locked shut. Fluttering at just over 20psi defueling runs much hotter up grades,

I think it's funny that people think they can adjust castor to different specs side to side. You could actually take one arm out and drive. Preferably a upper arm. But in a bind missing one lower would be okay to limp home. In the jeep world they call them 3 link suspension. Good for slow speed trail stuff. The one side with two arms sets castor angle. . This is why castor washers get all screwd up. Off side fights side being adjusted I take one side out completely or loosen nut enough to pop washer out of shoe so that when the other sides being adjusted the washer isnt fighting it on the other side. I currently only have castor washers in my drivers side. Other side has a normal bolt with washers that I ground flats on so they could move forward as far as possible Positive castor will make steering feel stiffer like it has resistance It does have resistance because positive castor is what makes the truck go straight. Like s spinning gyro at speed it wants to really hold straight But it's not bad. I have mine all the way forward with 35s. I adjusted toe with a tape measure 1/8-1/4 toed in.Tires have 5k on them with no wear patterns yet. I'd set toe at zero with 4th gen steering Adjust castor in steps test driving till it feels how you want

My driver side bearing went at about 200k passenger side at 280ish. My brake booster went out, abs light came on then

Have you cleaned all battery terminals. Unhook your batter's and see if ones dead. Could be electrical connections causing you trouble

Got my bargain ppe pan on. Bumped pressure a turn bumped TV stop in a half. Just for you guys I even filled with atf+4 Dynamics TV cable recommendation helped alot. I still never found a spec on TV stop. It's down shifting perfect and feels very good off idle so I must be close. Almost grabbed the floor jack. Ppe pan is heavy. I feel good about it and especially since I got it half price. I'll edit a few pics in

I'll second the injectors. At 30 psi theres some kinda boost fooling going on

I've decided sw# does not matter. I like tourge on 4 or 5 timing2 and duration5. Tm5 no added timing spools quick and seems to make more overal boost gauge does not flutter. Tm5 timing 2 d5 seems to build less boost flutters mu boost gauge. Timing 3 boost gauge starts fluttering timing 4 I stopped and dropped it to timing 2. No timming or 2 feels good I like the fuel off idle of tm5. Have no clue about mpg

Psst who needs gauges. Thank you that clears alot up for me

Yes instead of spurratic structure it's more composed and lined up. Is it woth it? I dunno I have chryoed rife barrel I think I could have put that 100 $ to use somewhere else

Does it have to have a display, the iquad?? Could I use my phone to program it then run it with no display. Or can other model do that. I guess what I'm asking is I have no clue how they work.

Borgwarner solenoid. Why not do a complete valve body workover since your going to take it apart If your granny is in good shape it might be time to pump the pressure up.

I think the base material becomes stronger because the molecules line up throughout. Or at least I think that's the thought process behind the deep freeze

I'm curious now about the block I'm going to pull leads off. Prett sure one is to ignition power or ecm. I'll trial and error just for curious sake and see if one pulled causes it not to start My truck 90% of the time wont trip a service engine light it will store codes Codes I have been unable to reset with both a updated snapon diagnostic tool and mac. I even did some voodoo touching positive cable to negative and negative to positive aswell leaving truck alone for a few days batteries unhooked. Codes will not go away. Apps didnt even trip a dash light

So I'd be safer to run less duration Yes I want a quad to. Or maybe only even numbers are safe??

If that's what those are it caused mine to randamnly die.

No not expensive your less than most places. Do you notice slower shifts with 4.2 lever. Im overthinking I know

I tossed your stage 2 in the shopping cart to see price. How much is your core. If I guy gets pre built tranny from you. You dont do 4.2 levers and stick to the 3.8?

To be honest I dont know. Theres a block with I think 3 bolted on them. I'd assume positive. My truck would die driving down the rd. Coast to a stop then start back up like nothing happened. Turned out just loose nits on the connections. Tight end them and truck hasn't died like that in 5 or so years. All lights would shut off like all power was cut. I'm sure radio we could reset to. Your radio comment is the one reason I replied. I'd check the connections then check ignition. If you cant fix it I'll only charge a small fee to remove it from your property

To be honest I dont know. Theres a block with I think 3 bolted on them. I'd assume positive. My truck would die driving down the rd. Coast to a stop then start back up like nothing happened. Turned out just loose nuts on the connections. Tightened them and truck hasn't died like that in 5 or so years

Dynamic phone teck support is well worth the added cost of the stage3, kidding I'm sure support is included with the stage 2 aswell 1700 in parts seems like alot but it's not its upgrading everything I think if I was ordering parts I'd do stage3 plus valve body plus triple converter bolted to goerend fcb flexplate. I really like that I have a billet converter bolted to a biller flex plate.

Did you check those connections below battery. They have rubber boots over them.