Evan

Towed 9k at 1900 rpm plenty of power to spare can stand on it roaling coal and be doing 85 in fast lane to jump ahead of the acasional truck or grandpa going slower than me. Still smoking plenty off idle with a trailer I can see cars behind me going through my cloud across they're windshield. I almost think it started smoking more in the last couple days and I haven't changed any settings. Still sw5 tm4 t4 d3. Might drop d to 2. Does the factory computer learn the driver I think it does learn driving characteristics of the driver adjust or adapt whatever you call it. Am I crazy thinking that? If it does does it still do that with the smarty tune going? What about the quad? Maybe I read something about adaptive parameters and my mind just moved it over to the truck

In my opion being only fluid coupled it will roast no matter how much air you throw at it. This is one instant where 4.10 gears would be beneficial in increasing rpm slowing speed and potentially getting 3rd locked. For some reason lots are afraid of 4low This why the 47re gets a bad rep. One pull like this and 100k was just removed from its life. The tools are already on board to make it happy but very few use them

Run in 4 low. Youd need to reduce speeds and take advantage of the hidden gearing your truck has. Unless it's a 2wd in that case your fffffed. With tcase engaged theres less strain on motor and transmission. You then could get the converter locked in 3rd at the cost of reduced speeds. I'd rather go slower and make my transmission happy then to roast it with only fluid coupling going on.

They already run similar on skidsteers . Actually been seeing them for 10years or so

Run in 4low

If fluid is changing colors with only a couple thousand miles it might be slipping. Cow paths that keep you out of 3rd could be causing it to slip because torque converter is unable to lock in second

Excavation is our small business. I'm not sure what my title is. Some days equipment operator, truck driver, mobile mechanic sometimes all in the same day.

Lol. Axles are to far back to haul heavy behind a pickup. When I'm leap frogging around my pickup ends up on it.

When we bought this trailer I was against having electric brakes. Since we got it I find lots uses to tow light stuff behind the pickup. Trailer is to heavy and tongue heavy to tow much more then a skidsteer I use it to haul 33ft top rail for building fence today I'm going to pick up a pile of trailer house axles I bought along with some trailer tongues. I think this trailer weighs 9000lbs empty. (Think ) tag on trailer is unreadable. also have a gooseneck but I'm not always around it so this is often handy for what I'm doing.

I think Oregon turns all there pumps off at night. I made a 600 mile run across Oregon most of it after midnight came into idaho after burning fumes for hours it seemed. Tried to get fuel and pumps were turned off I was on back rds grrr. Crystals wakes up cause I pull off for fuel I never stop for fuel. What's wrong. Well pretty sure were going to run out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. On a strange rd with shoes hanging from the trees.. I ran 3rd driving by instant fuel meter thing and made it across the border. She was out took 34 gallons

I dont use it because I dont tow at 35mph. But I think I'd downshift to second because rpms would be very low at 35 in 3rd I played with the switch pulling hills tunning om freeway way used it as a smoke switch to real coal at 15rpm in 3rd. I do have a use for it. But I'll have to modify the valve body someday to make it lock second. Every so often 2nd OS nice towing the excavator in city traffic. Where speeds never get over 35. Stubborn I guess. I just never found it useful I did try it because everyone else does. It's a heap mod si everyone should try just hopefully not at the cost of a input shaft

Lock up switch will not cure heat issues if transmission is already working correctly in both 3rd and 4th. Only benefit is ability to lock second when towing in second to keep from heating transmission that's only fluid coupled in second. If transmission is running hot locked in 3rd and 4th adding a switch will do nothing. Tourqe converter and clutched are are slipping creating excess heat. I guess theres small chance to be unlocked towing in 3rd. But youd probly be under 35mph. In that case the switch will make it lock sooner at lower speed and rpms. In my opion the switch is un needed and definitely not a cure all. Locking second pulling loads of fire wood off the mtn for me would be the only benefit. I quit using the switch because for me its un needed. And I tow 16k regular.

Maybe at tax time I'll see if ducky fuel injection can pop some 7x10s at 325 or so.

Dead spot in the power band is definitely gone. Pulls noticably harder from 1500to 2000. Swapped my 33s off for my good 35s surge on freeway is much better and psi is a pretty solid 6is woth 33s needle was bouncing from 5-10ish. Pulled horses and she still smoke on heavy side taking off from a stop under normal to light throttle then hazed through to 1900 cruising. I think slight haze st 1900

I agree all depends on driving habits. My stock trany held stock power well running around towing 22k regularly to 250k mikes then I put in 7x09 injectors it would then slip but I still towed nit as heavy 16k max and ran it to 280k. New how much throttle and I rarely got on it. It now makes better use of the same 100hp injectors woth a 65horse programmer that boost fooling. Makes alot ov power. How much I have no idea. My tranny has most all the upgrades , added clutches. I did a billet single disc and billett flexplate. However much power she makes it holds it just fine towing or empty shifting through the gears with tires broke loose. Though I haven't done that in a while. I think if tranny is healthy a shift kit to increase lockup and crisp shifts up across the board will only help it last longer and hold more power. Pressure will also be raised with stiffer springs that are included in the kit. It takes alittle trial and error adjusting TV cable but it has alot to do with how it shifts aswell as holding capacity. 350 is alot of power 120horse over stock and what the tranny was built to hold. I'd sure try it and did and ended up building my granny but would have had to eventually build it if it was still at stock power

I bump pressure to 120psi and run tractor transmission fluid in it. If tools and ability to learn is high put shift kit in. But can bump oressuwith out a kit. Put borge Warner solenoid sensor on to. Couple hundred bucks counting 5 gallons of fluid. That's what I'd do since I'm broke

So my picture posting will be cut of ?

Heres mu 285x75x17 there roughly 35x11.5 tires

Higher tm the truck moves down rd quicler with less throttle means the TV lever is moving less creating less pressure for speed wich shifts sooner. Lower tm more throttle ti fo same speed moves TV cable more. This just happened in that order rock kissed pumpkin bent fo control arm removed pump. Going 5mph blind into the sun. So far temps dont seem to be affected by tunning. Same with or without timming I just got pump tigged jack up and it's still working. Drilled holes for the upper 2 bolts and drilled a few holes to use a welder spark plug cable to secure the bottom of the bracket

I'm slowly becoming more confident. I'll build motors and work on most anything but automatic transmissions have been Greek to me and scarey. My tranny builder built my tranny we came up with a parts list and settled on how much money to put in it. (Alot) he did the valve body then I grew some nuts and decided to go into the valve body myself. Wasnt near as bad as I thought it would be. I am far from knowing much about the 47re. It's an interesting tranny and I'm interested in it so I'm continually learning as much as I can. From anyone and every where I can

I to am not going to be popping every 30k KISS. I'll replace if when I find a reason to. Have 6 or 8 years on my 7x09 injectors

My 47re went to to 280. I to did the tractor transmission fluid but I'm cheap I'll kit harvest king at the farm and ranch stores. My new rebuilt 47 has a mix bunch of at4 and tractor transmission fluid in it. Yes mine to shifts about 3000 wind open. Marcus Factory the 47re makes about 90-100psi at wide open throttle. To do it right you should get psi reading at wot off the accumulator port on the passenger side of tranny. If tranny is in 90-100 range I would install a shift kit. I have the transgo tfod in mine. There a very good directions and pictures that explain what to do for how much power and what's upgraded on tranny.. I wouldn't go more than 120psi nit because the trann cant take it but because the computer doesnt like to see over 100psi. If it acts up you have to install a resistor to keep computer from seeing full pressure. My tranny idles with more pressure than yours makes at wot. I'm 165ish at wot. The 47re kinda intrigues me. Heres mu tranny on tear down I didnt build it it's the only thing I've payed yo have done. However later I did go into the valve body and adjust 1-2 2-3 and lock up port sizes. I have 1-2 and lock up just how I want but need to go in and increase 2-3 just alittle more to make it quicker

I rarely run hardly any throttle I'm still on SW5 tm4 t4 d3 I cant tell any difference in egt. I think with timing it is spoiling quicker under 10psi on freeway I saw some prett steady 5psi stretches but due th o wi d and rolling hills and some surging it would still almost hit 10psi. Yes smokes before turbo lights. Leaving a stop light under light throttle it's a heavy haze then cleans up into light haze. I might email mads and see if theyl send they're fuel curve charts for sw settings. They gota give up more then they have. I'm alittle Leary but I do want to try towing on this on sw5 with 4 timming.. It drags shifts out under lower tm because the trans is shifting with more TV pressure. Changing settings is almost more or less like tightening and loosening the cable. Theres si much to notice and feel tunning a auto truck compared to a manual. And yes its hard to figure what to notice and feel. Very challenging. Thanks again Glad said you had a dead spot with high duration was starting to think it was just me.

Thank you. For some reason I decided to do my track bar over night and then go on a 670 mile rd trip the next day. I got to Grant's Pass Oregon and crashed for a few hours. Truck made the trip just fine, while I was beat I did do the poly bushing om the bar truck feels new now. Lol newer. Glad I got rid of the floppy factory style end links I think these do they're job better. All poly sure is nice. Literally no sway with steering, ride feels the same The bar bushings were 17 at autozone

On tm4 t4 d3 Feels like its making more power also more smoke. Feels like sw6 all default settings. Do you think tm4 t4 is safe towing. Shifts are crisp but earlier than on SW default tm wich I think is 3 Smoke doesnt matter it's not horrible unless I get on it good. Seems to smoke in all setting I have not ran the tm lower than3 i dont think.Think I'm going back to tm3 t4 and will try d3 there. Still thinking sw# does not matter especially after you had me run tm4 . Pretty damn sure sw6 is the only one running default tm 4 wich makes its fuel curve different. And not paired with 7 wich is tm5 On d3 I didnt notice the dead spot that seemed to be in the middle of the power band. I haven't ran the freeway to know if it surges but I'm pretty sure it does