Evan

Yes it has more power because revo is set at tm 4 sw5 tm default is 3 sw6 tm default is 4 feels the same as it. Not sure I believe the sw# brings different fuel curves. I still think only tm# does sw is nothing more than a default set of revo settings. Only thing changing with sw# is the tm# and that's what changes the curve the tm # not sw. Lol I make no sence and am probly wrong just what it feels like to me. I like how tm4 feels off idle compared to 3 I'll deal with the smoke I have messed with it but I'll put duration down a number. Was going to change tire size earlier but even that I'm not sure works. I have speed limiter set at 85 and can easily smoke way passed it. I think I have 32" tire plugged in so not a huge difference to 33" anyways

Just get a reman 1ton box

Yes disengaging the axle will keep both fronts from turning but the open side gears do that anyways. Cad axle disappear in 2001 I think also disappeared on jeeps in the 90s they went to a one piece inner axle and did away entirely with the vacumn actuated arm that slides the collar over to lock the inner axle together. Still need hubs either way cad or not to disengage tires from transfer case while tcase is engaged , front axles spins 100percent of the time . Because the side gears are open with cad disconnected power goes to path of least resistance the unlocked inner axle so I guess not locking the actuator may work for tight turns. I was thi king alittle more

Going that slow it would be fine. I've ran 4low pulling grades with weight at 32k. It was a slightly different scenario was actually horse shoebend straight hill my truck in the 100deg air temp. Everything getting hot. Yup I was that guy in 4low flashers on thinking WTF am I doing just like everyone passing was thinking lol. I've ran 4low in parades with a manual making some pretty good turns letting the truck idle through. If things are heating 4low is a option. If a trip like this is planned the front drive line could be pulled in preparation if the driver doesnt want to risk front end damage. Running 2low isnt a option for me because swapping ti hubs is spendy. But a front axle out of a 78 ford would be possibly feasible. Strip it and weld on all suspension components that the dodge needs. Would be a perfect time to go long arm suspension for not much more cost. And raise coil mounts 2" over factory to get rid of the 2" spacers I'm running . Then I could also run a Detroit locker in the front when a locked front end isnt needed I'd just lock the drivers sid hub and leave the passenger side unlocked. Then I can also run drag link to the king pin steering arm and tie rod on the luckles the 2" raised coil buckets would allow the track bar mount on axle to also raise to match the drag link that's raised to the king pin. Ok I gotta go to sleep now. I'm not building a offroad truck. Heres towing 9k on freeway at 70mph bought 1900 rpm. Temp 121 Then this is sitting at a light in boise not sure a added fan would do much since fluid isnt moving like when driving

Towed 9k at 1900 rpm plenty of power to spare can stand on it roaling coal and be doing 85 in fast lane to jump ahead of the acasional truck or grandpa going slower than me. Still smoking plenty off idle with a trailer I can see cars behind me going through my cloud across they're windshield. I almost think it started smoking more in the last couple days and I haven't changed any settings. Still sw5 tm4 t4 d3. Might drop d to 2. Does the factory computer learn the driver I think it does learn driving characteristics of the driver adjust or adapt whatever you call it. Am I crazy thinking that? If it does does it still do that with the smarty tune going? What about the quad? Maybe I read something about adaptive parameters and my mind just moved it over to the truck

In my opion being only fluid coupled it will roast no matter how much air you throw at it. This is one instant where 4.10 gears would be beneficial in increasing rpm slowing speed and potentially getting 3rd locked. For some reason lots are afraid of 4low This why the 47re gets a bad rep. One pull like this and 100k was just removed from its life. The tools are already on board to make it happy but very few use them

Run in 4 low. Youd need to reduce speeds and take advantage of the hidden gearing your truck has. Unless it's a 2wd in that case your fffffed. With tcase engaged theres less strain on motor and transmission. You then could get the converter locked in 3rd at the cost of reduced speeds. I'd rather go slower and make my transmission happy then to roast it with only fluid coupling going on.

They already run similar on skidsteers . Actually been seeing them for 10years or so

Run in 4low

If fluid is changing colors with only a couple thousand miles it might be slipping. Cow paths that keep you out of 3rd could be causing it to slip because torque converter is unable to lock in second

Excavation is our small business. I'm not sure what my title is. Some days equipment operator, truck driver, mobile mechanic sometimes all in the same day.

Lol. Axles are to far back to haul heavy behind a pickup. When I'm leap frogging around my pickup ends up on it.

When we bought this trailer I was against having electric brakes. Since we got it I find lots uses to tow light stuff behind the pickup. Trailer is to heavy and tongue heavy to tow much more then a skidsteer I use it to haul 33ft top rail for building fence today I'm going to pick up a pile of trailer house axles I bought along with some trailer tongues. I think this trailer weighs 9000lbs empty. (Think ) tag on trailer is unreadable. also have a gooseneck but I'm not always around it so this is often handy for what I'm doing.

I think Oregon turns all there pumps off at night. I made a 600 mile run across Oregon most of it after midnight came into idaho after burning fumes for hours it seemed. Tried to get fuel and pumps were turned off I was on back rds grrr. Crystals wakes up cause I pull off for fuel I never stop for fuel. What's wrong. Well pretty sure were going to run out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. On a strange rd with shoes hanging from the trees.. I ran 3rd driving by instant fuel meter thing and made it across the border. She was out took 34 gallons

I dont use it because I dont tow at 35mph. But I think I'd downshift to second because rpms would be very low at 35 in 3rd I played with the switch pulling hills tunning om freeway way used it as a smoke switch to real coal at 15rpm in 3rd. I do have a use for it. But I'll have to modify the valve body someday to make it lock second. Every so often 2nd OS nice towing the excavator in city traffic. Where speeds never get over 35. Stubborn I guess. I just never found it useful I did try it because everyone else does. It's a heap mod si everyone should try just hopefully not at the cost of a input shaft

Lock up switch will not cure heat issues if transmission is already working correctly in both 3rd and 4th. Only benefit is ability to lock second when towing in second to keep from heating transmission that's only fluid coupled in second. If transmission is running hot locked in 3rd and 4th adding a switch will do nothing. Tourqe converter and clutched are are slipping creating excess heat. I guess theres small chance to be unlocked towing in 3rd. But youd probly be under 35mph. In that case the switch will make it lock sooner at lower speed and rpms. In my opion the switch is un needed and definitely not a cure all. Locking second pulling loads of fire wood off the mtn for me would be the only benefit. I quit using the switch because for me its un needed. And I tow 16k regular.

Maybe at tax time I'll see if ducky fuel injection can pop some 7x10s at 325 or so.

Dead spot in the power band is definitely gone. Pulls noticably harder from 1500to 2000. Swapped my 33s off for my good 35s surge on freeway is much better and psi is a pretty solid 6is woth 33s needle was bouncing from 5-10ish. Pulled horses and she still smoke on heavy side taking off from a stop under normal to light throttle then hazed through to 1900 cruising. I think slight haze st 1900

I agree all depends on driving habits. My stock trany held stock power well running around towing 22k regularly to 250k mikes then I put in 7x09 injectors it would then slip but I still towed nit as heavy 16k max and ran it to 280k. New how much throttle and I rarely got on it. It now makes better use of the same 100hp injectors woth a 65horse programmer that boost fooling. Makes alot ov power. How much I have no idea. My tranny has most all the upgrades , added clutches. I did a billet single disc and billett flexplate. However much power she makes it holds it just fine towing or empty shifting through the gears with tires broke loose. Though I haven't done that in a while. I think if tranny is healthy a shift kit to increase lockup and crisp shifts up across the board will only help it last longer and hold more power. Pressure will also be raised with stiffer springs that are included in the kit. It takes alittle trial and error adjusting TV cable but it has alot to do with how it shifts aswell as holding capacity. 350 is alot of power 120horse over stock and what the tranny was built to hold. I'd sure try it and did and ended up building my granny but would have had to eventually build it if it was still at stock power

I bump pressure to 120psi and run tractor transmission fluid in it. If tools and ability to learn is high put shift kit in. But can bump oressuwith out a kit. Put borge Warner solenoid sensor on to. Couple hundred bucks counting 5 gallons of fluid. That's what I'd do since I'm broke

So my picture posting will be cut of ?

Heres mu 285x75x17 there roughly 35x11.5 tires

Higher tm the truck moves down rd quicler with less throttle means the TV lever is moving less creating less pressure for speed wich shifts sooner. Lower tm more throttle ti fo same speed moves TV cable more. This just happened in that order rock kissed pumpkin bent fo control arm removed pump. Going 5mph blind into the sun. So far temps dont seem to be affected by tunning. Same with or without timming I just got pump tigged jack up and it's still working. Drilled holes for the upper 2 bolts and drilled a few holes to use a welder spark plug cable to secure the bottom of the bracket

I'm slowly becoming more confident. I'll build motors and work on most anything but automatic transmissions have been Greek to me and scarey. My tranny builder built my tranny we came up with a parts list and settled on how much money to put in it. (Alot) he did the valve body then I grew some nuts and decided to go into the valve body myself. Wasnt near as bad as I thought it would be. I am far from knowing much about the 47re. It's an interesting tranny and I'm interested in it so I'm continually learning as much as I can. From anyone and every where I can

I to am not going to be popping every 30k KISS. I'll replace if when I find a reason to. Have 6 or 8 years on my 7x09 injectors