Evan

My heater has mostly quit working. I'm on flush #4 heater is working but not great. Flushed with vinegar oil, blue devil coolant cleaner, stp, I'm flushing directly through heater core. Scarey stuff coming out. Radiator hose off truck running. Also flushing out cap so I can see what's coming out. That cat cleaner I may try. is it a small bottle. I'd like to find a gallon jug of cleaner

Upped d to 3 wont tell anything till I tow. Installed new air filter maybe very slight amount less smoke. I just turn mirror up and push lightly on peddle. I am getting some drone through the filter so something's flowing better or it's more restrictive.

Theres reports of track bar lengths varying from bar to bar to manufacture depending on who made it etc. Even varying in the same manufacturer Our 07 work truck eats all track bars moog mopar autozone. Itl eat them in a month. My heim bars now been on now for a few months I'm watching it close.

Lol well damn at least it was worthy of being thrown in the trash

I figured these are worth they're own thread. I've just recently stumbled onto them. They're by fab series. I'll mainly post pictures and links between my spelling and phone auto correct pictures and links will explain best. I'm excited to call and get prices. Can build some super beefy steering with these offset links. http://www.fabseries.com/ Lots of stud tapers to choose from

Running sw5 5 4 2 Spent yesterday and today yanking 12kish around. Still noticing that flat spot at 1600-1700is. Turbo is lit. Egts are man able hitting 11-12 running 80mph on rolling fluffy hills. Sustained over 30psi for 5 or so miles and head gasket still seems to be holding. I run faster loaded I'm running 2000rpm at 8000. Might kill the timming later and see what the flat spot in the power band does. Maybe its mechanical

Awesome build. Love the beef. What are you welding with and how do you like it? Looks like a 211 maybe bigger?

Head gasket was bad. Heads off getting surfaced and engine seal set should be here Tuesday

I did alot research on Luke's links. They might be a upgrade built on the stock tie rod ends but I didnt like a tie rod end on the frame side of the track bar. After lots of debating in my head I took the plunge and torched the tie end off the frame side of the track bar and started over. Truck handles amazing after getting the track bar done. I did miss the mark and had to lower frame end to get rid of bump steer I also have slight contact on the diff cover. Been meaning to heat that up and mend it in alittle or possibly bump track mount on frame forward a 1/4". I'm not 100percent sure if I'll fab a steering or just do the 2008.5 steering I will save 100 bucks or so to fab it but I'm short on time and the factory steering will clear better. I may have to adjust track angle again because the mount on the tie rod to drag link will lower slightly though it may be okay I may go this route https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html Offset joints would fix that but require more fabrication on my end. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFFK.html but the straight tierod makes packaging it tighter. Bent tie rod makes toe adjustments harder. The mopar steering kit is easily adjustable for toe. I'm not sure on longevity yet on the 7/8 heim joints. Probly have 20k plus on them. They're still tight like new. The bolt on DOR or Carlyle track bar kits are nice but lower the frame end mount to much for a truck at factory ride height. I could be wrong I see the price of them and dont look into them to terribly much Lots of ways to go on these trucks and like mike says they all drive down the road. I'm still running the god awful sloppy factory steering. It still goes down the road. I did replace the joint on pitman arm because it was so sloppy it was scaring me.

The steering kit is 4th gen. Heck I dunno know when 4th gen starts. Steering changed in 2008.5 anything older than that y steering unless a end user or dealer has installed the factory upgraded 2008.5 plus steering Its bolt on on 3rd gen and kinda bolt on on second gen I wonder if anyone noticed and bump steer after doing Luke's links. Looks like link on pitman arm is raised or that just my eye. If it raising it then a Luke's link on the track bar would make it even worse because the drag link is raising and track bar is lowering. It would probly just be a slight bump when suspension cycles . Must just be my eye it cant raise due to taper on shaft

Yes you cut and grind to install Luke's on wore out factory joints. Or replace and start fresh with 2008.5 plus facTory upgraded steering Some guys here have good luck with Luke's. Everyone likes what the run and it all drives down the road

What temps are you guys seeing. Empty I'm 110 120 on free way 130s loaded towing flat highest I've seen is 160s in stop and go traffic. I've never seen it get any close to 190 my gauge is on pan so its reading 9 or so quarts of fluid maybe 10.

The one I linked on ebay was 280 for moog the mopar kit is 300-380 on ebay. I to wonder if it's any better than the moog stuff. I honestly am not sure what trucks have what taper on knuckles and pitman I do the reamer and inserts are gm 1ton taper and the high misalignment taper for the pitman . These are the correct taper. Chrysler finally decided to go with what works and is proven but it took till 2008.5 for them to do it. I think the jeeps also lost y steering but I dont know what year. I'd have to look into it. The steering is very interesting on dodge trucks as 98 and I think 99 had what was called a heavy duty steering or snow plow steering and again I have never had one in front of me to visually verify. That's what you find reading forums 500 guys know it all 3 might have actually done. I fall into 500 that haven't done. But am not concerned because the upgraded steering is worth whatever mods are required to bolt it on. It may not on it may not either way I'm capable to do it. Good luck

Luke's link is a bandaid on the stock joints. You have like 500 into it if you put a bandaid on each steering and track bar joint. I too think I'd go with moog. I couldn't get napa to cross the mopar steering kit. Been meaning to try a different napa.

That is a clean 5.9 and very cool ontake. I haven't looked into these mods but am interested

The mopar kit was used by dodge to upgrade the 4th gens that still had the y star. They didn't market it for the 2nd gens because it's not a direct bolt on for all 2nd gens. I think only 2000-2002 are bolt on but I'm not positive. I've looked into Luke's links and for me I wouldn't mess with them cost just seems to high to put a bandaid on what I feel is a shity design to start with The mopar kit is 300 on ebay I've seen moog kits cheaper not sure wich would be better. The steering is 08.5 and newer. I think the y steering actually had some recalls on the 3rd gens the kit was the factory fix. I think I may be wrong. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183097555315 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152043484603 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292740540924 I plan to do moog or mopar kit when I have money. I will not mess with y or Luke's links Can use these instead of reamer. Tie rod ends https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html Pitman arm https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DLINSERT.html

Haha i hear you there. Sometimes that hill is dangerous seen pup trailers wadded up What's funny is I looked in my mirror after you passed and could recognize the stacks almost instantly

Just saw you by ada sand and gravel

That is correct. I doubt you could get tighter than 1/16 with a tape. I'd error on plus 1/16 side just incase actual is zero to avoid a toe out by the same 1/16 or even possibly 1/8" I would not run at zero with y steering itl toe out going down the road as the suspension moves Yes castor can wear parts fast. I'd rather change a box then fight a truck that doesn't track straight down the rd every day. Castor is one of those things that's tunable to each person's likes and wants

How many are on market. Or is there just a couple and they're all branded by everyone and they're brother

Got engine brakes working. Bypassed factory wiring. Brakes now all work and braking is tons better. Now need to bring at least throttle switch back in. Clutch switch is nice but I can do without it. Will be soldering connections as I do a test run with throttle switch wires in. Prett sure throttle switch is mounted at the pump. Electrical is not my thing. Truck needs the exhaust redone I'd rather be working g on that. Thinking about putting a short twister muffler on it.. need to buy one 90 and make the 45s to redo the rusted out exhaust

1/16 toe in would be good. That's close enough to zero toe in. Castor is non tearing wearing so adjust it to liking and feel.

We never got anywhere close to 50mpg with our tdi jetta.

Maybe for 300

I'm more concerned what tap water does. Anything coming out of the ground is nasty. I dont know how much coolant the truck holds but I put damn near 10 gallons of straight water in it and it's still turning dark green.. I'm planning to get a bunch of distilled water and some kinda antifreeze and redo it. Or buy all premixed but I don't even think I'll ever get it all drained to start over fresh with no tap water