Evan

I read through this didnt think much of it. Then I wonderd if it could be that unit bearing seizing up pulling

I tend to drive more like my grandpa then a young guy with ponies under the hood and tranny to hold them I think I have carbon fiber on the front and ceramic rear. My truck stops pretty good I have almost no brake dust on my wheels. I debated long and hard on doing drill and slotted. Just drilled. Dimpled just grooved. Grooved is supposed to cut the glaze of the pads I dunno I'm sure everything works well. I research to much.

Rotors are a consumable part just get new ones. At 30 bucks a rotor to resurface I think I'd just buy new. I'm running carbon fiber pads just for giggles. I think ceramics are well worth it to. Everyone's going organic these days from brakes to food wtf get with times and use the technology we have. Drilled rotors where to vent gasses on race cars back in the day. Heat and gasses would actually make the pad float on the rotor. The holes gave the gases a place to go not necessarily to decrease heat. I cant tell any difference between carbon fiber ones I just got and ceramics. Make sure and get pads that are vented. They have a line down them instead of solid either way I doubt we need to worry about heat or gas floating our pads

47re runs well on everything but water. My tranny has a mix of tractor trans atf+4 and dexiii in it. Ive also ran fordf with good results. I hear guys say that it needs atf+4 because its computer controlled, because it has added friction modifiers. In my opion plus4 is good if you going run 60-80k between service intervals. If your willing to service every 20k any red fluid will work.. I'm not sure but fordf feel crisper than plus4 and so does tractor transmission fluid I like tractor transmission fluid its biggest drawback is I cant see it on the dip stick so I've mixed it with red atf. The 47re is 727 computer controlled with a over drive unit bolted on it. It's not picky. It likes good clean fluid The rubber gaskets that are wadded up work well to. start all bolts through the cover into gasket just a few threads and they hold it perfect to install on the truck. Before I rebuilt my tranny I ran tractor transmission fluid bought me a few years after it started slipping bad. When it finally went clutches still looked good but band was worn completly in two tranny was done at that point. But could have done just a band and ran it longer. May have stopped slipping to.

Another way to do it is wedge a stick or something against the seat and move the seat forward until throttle is to the floor. Then move TV lever all way back the direction the cable pulls it. This way you know TV arm is moving full travel or if it's not. Adjust cable so TV arm moves as far as it can. If it shifts to late or to firm for your liking you can back it of slightly. Little adjustments make a big difference in how it shifts under light throttle TV cable definitely takes some fiddling to get right you can be in 2800-3000 wot range and still be able to adjust it how you like. You just need to make sure it's not to loose it needs to build more pressure with more throttle so itl hold power under increasing throttle. The farther you push the pedal down the more powerful the tranny gets if its adjusted correctly. Yes you could be feeling slack then it moves the arm at has a return spring pulling against it.

The star bolt you see is the front band. Dont touch it. Yes take slack out of cable. I bend the arm that holds the cable. Should shift 1-2 at 2800-3000rpm wide open throttle What I do is pop the ball off the TV lever so cable is disconnected then tighten very slightly so theres no slack or very little slack then test drive. Tighter cable will make shifts later. Higher rpm shifts will also feel quicker and firmer. You might also want to get a pressure gauge and see what pressure is at locked converter wide open throttle should be 90-100 itl idle around 50-60 I'm not sure what star bolt you see but there isnt a star bolt I know of that adjusts cable slack. Cable can also be adjusted on the pump end but I found a small crescent wrench and give the arm the cable goes through a slight tweak is easier for me to adjust on the tranny end

I do not like that I had to heat the one bore I doubt itl break but it bothers me. I heated it to about 400 is what my temp gun said Was just thinking I'd give up but I got last bushing has to be burned it. Took very light taps to put it in. I want to ensure it doesn't rock or fall so I'm putting a couple short beads on it. Put the pin in to ensure it stays lined up with lower bushing. Were good till the rest of machine dies now. I can change these bushings again if I have to but it'd be a job. Isnt everything

The in tank pump was a retrofit by the dealer. Get it out asap

A couple bores are eg shaped one had broken bushing and allowed the bore to be beaton just over sized enough to hold the new bushing. That's the one I welded. I could change the welded bushing again but will likely never have to since the machine wont last another 10k. Weve got just under 11k on it. Should have a shop do this but wed be a few grand in labor. A welding machine can be the tool that makes most things work. I've got 3 bushings to go. They're fighting me. Mostly the egshaped bores. Hoping to go back together Monday when theres two of us. I dont think I want to put the swing tower and boom on alone.

Been doing nothing to it for 15 years. Well water is all its had. It's got a gallon of vinegar in it right now plus some stp cleaner. I'm to busy to make it to cat today

I dont notice anything. I'm worried about timming on 4 while towing. Never really drive over half throttle. That's all it takes to stay with traffic. I to put some money in my tranny But I just dont drive hard . I had a mustang rev his engine at the light next to me. I wonderd if I'd reel him in ounce the turbo spooled. I let him going lol no reason to burn the fuel to most likely loose and get a ticket. My tranny drives nothing like stock. I love it.

Every time I see a second with a cracked to **** dash wtf goes through my head. Mines the only one I've been around and didn't realize they crack bad 15 year of KISS I put aa on ounce ohhh my god it was horrible. I didnt know dirty till then

My truck smokes just like this might clean out sooner.

Heres the nasty stuff I've been flushing out. Have stp stuff in it right now.

I thought the same thing but didnt want to say anything I to was like **** I haven't seen and springs

If it's worse when hot it could be a pressure thing. Maybe slightly tightening TV cable to raise pressure would help Hot fluid will make less pressure than cool fluid. Make clean all battery connections you can find

My pan is cant think of the brand of the top of my head. Looks like ats pan. I don't use a tourqe wrench bolt dont have to be very tight. Not sure I'd used rtv on either side. I use the rubber gasket that comes with filter. Start all bolts through gasket then lift pan up. So far no leaks and I've had pan off a couple times on the same gasket. Cork gasket is supposed to be better they say. Factory gasket is very good to. The goerend pan looks very good. Shouldn't have issues with leaks unless bolts are over tightened. Spec is only like 14ft lbs

Yes mechanical gauge is what I used

Shes cool works in landscaping has had welding jobs, fought fire is my age this time. Lol well see. Yup all the makings for crazy

I cant help it. On a side not just bumped timing to 3 while I wait for redhead #3 to get here

I've had 3 serious relationships 2 red heads one brunette all crazy high on the scale. None lasted but maybe that has alittle to do with me to

I almost never snap hard into throttle. Dead spot is massive on d5 but only noticable for me while towing when on 2.

With a snubber fuel line and gauge I'm less than 50 in mine

Can you hear lift pump come on when you turn the ignition on but dont start the truck?

My dash looks pretty good. Usually has a layer of dust on it to block the UV Ray's. AA just seemed to make the dust turn into mud.