Evan

Mine runs out of steam about 2200rpm

Run toe at zero castor as positive as itl go. Dont trust tire shops to know what they're doing or seeing on the computer Yes you can adjust castor yourself. The bottom contral arm mount on axle has castor washers. And deg marks. What I do is jack truck up. Pull one bolt all the way out so your not fighting yourself side to side. The one arm will set castor for both sides. Finish and reinstall bolt. You can also just loosen it but as you adjust other side this washer will contact. This is also why you see castor washers that are messed up. Tire shop guy reefng the one hes adjusting but not caring the other side is following it. Mushrooming against the axle I'd start by maxing the setting to positive side. If it's to far the truck will drive straight but feel like the steering is stiff. Like your steering stabalizer is super charged. If its zero or negative the truck will steer very easy but not return to center coming out of turns and wonder. Castor isnt a tire wearing angle. So you cant mess it up. Adjust through trial and error till you like it. Youl likely like it maxed to the positive side. Research castor angle so you know what your doing when you make the adjustments

I'd just dump the extra quart in its gona leak it out anyways

Run toe at zero castor as positive as itl go. Dont trust tire shops to know what they're doing or seeing on the computer What this print out tells me is they didnt touch castor and truck is towed in. I'm assuming the 2.9 is positive castor. If its negative itl wonder and not return to center very well. All they did was adjust toe. And printed you a fancy printout that pretty much means nothing. Toe and castor is all that's adjustable anyways. I'd set toe at zero and run castor at the 3.7 positive. Thuren specs look good .05deg toe in and 4.5 positive castor. The y link needs to run alittle toe because as suspension compress's tire will toe out and become zero or very close to zero. The solid bar like you have wont change as suspension compress's and should be set as close to zero as possible I'd get this corrected and then if theres still issues chase things like shocks

Thanks , I hope so. It's taking 15 years to get to this point I've never spent this much money in one spot. Ohh I guess that's a lie. I've got some money in the fuel system and alot more in the tranny. **** injectors to. Damn got some money in this thing over the years. Everyone talks about how easy the 62 65 spools. The axe turbos have good following. I'll have to start tunning all over again now that I kinda had it figured out. I never could break 18ish mpg see if the turbo makes better or worse mpg How do I know what psi the waste gate is set to open and what kinda psi might I be seeing? The hy35 will go 33ish with a heavy load towing that's heavy floored and screaming eiery scarey sounds through the cab Like wtf is that let off the throttle kinda scarey I've done hours of reading and the 62 turbos seem to be where it's at for drivable truck with 100-150 injectors. I'm sure Mike's right and I'll still smoke down low maybe I'll be surprised and smoke less. I'm hoping to run cooler towing. Temps may actually be the same though because it may fuel more and make more power = heat I cant wait. Just cleaned her up at the car wash Hy has been getting oily Ugh now the wait.

Yes Kicked around the 62 68 14 also kicked around 12 over 14. Decided 65 would be safe and 14 might cool better. Regardless not sure I could go wrong with any of them . It may scare me. After reading for a few days 62 65 is supposed to spool fast with 100 150 injectors. I'll be very sad if my towing temps go up. It's also wierd seeing how the smarty was the tuner everyone had to have back then lol. Everyone loved it. I really wanted to save money and get a hx40 or 351 35hybrid but I was like you know what f that I want a new turbo with newer technology. In all reality I'd be 700 in get a hybrid built and 500 in buying a hx40 and freshening it up. The 351 is limited to 3.5" outlet. When I realized I can buy a 1000 turbo that lots of people love for 700 it was a no brainer and i get to pick the size.

Partly what made up my mind was watching the powerdrivendiesel video where they dyno this turbo and efi live on a 06 making 500 plus.

I contacted smeding. The turbo they list for 999 they will match the ebay 685 price My turbo is on the way.

What's the race cover? I see it says it but what is it . I don't see much on smedings website explaining what things are. There are 3 62 65 14 on ebay. I'm about to pull the tricker. One thing I do like is this comes with the adapter to run the downpipe I have. Then later I can fab my 5" or drop a hx40 pipe behind it. Seems my hy35 is making more fluttering noises probly me making it up to sell it to myself. This will be the first part I've done that was still functioning when I pulled.

Giving you a bump. I think a slow rev down might mean its starving for fuel. Do you know what your fuel pressure is?

What about 68 vs 65 turbine https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F133089420514

What about 68 vs 65 turbine

What's the difference between running a gateless or turn buckle Say the gate opens at 30psi. Is this any different than my foot letting off the throttle Nother question, under no load 1800rpm the hy35 is making 5psi. I'm assuming a 62 turbo would be even less. 0-3 maybe. I'm I right in assuming that. But may be moving more volume.

I'm not sure what to do. 62 65 12 is on the small end but quite abit bigger than the hy35. I have looked at 351 specs. However I think it's a 3.5" outlet. I want a 4" outlet well I think I do. Anyways. I think 7x09 and 10 would be plenty to spool a 62 turbo. I dunno. My friends in the hospital now anyways so I'll probly put my money there instead.

Been looking at the s300 62 65 12 or 63 68 14 Smedley has a few on ebay for 650-700. Also watching for a hx40

I'm running 550 every 3days. Some times 550 in 2days.

**** your going to beat me to 400k I think I found my noise. Drivers side tie rod end is bouncing up and down. Grrrr. Guess it's time to upgrade steering. Also snuggled up rear axle bearings been looking in places were I've done work recently. Had alittle air in passenger side banjo. Shed been pulling left under moderate braking. Bled both calipers. Might do tears tommorr

My tranny is pretty fresh. 50k or less on it since I stuffed alot of money in it. I used to know what all is in it but I dont anymore. Most everything I couldnt afford. I cheated put and didn't do a triple should have. since I did as much as I did

Dammit you drove off and left your good oil filler cap on the road

Lol apparently. My friend I'm working with was going to bring my truck cause his didnt have fuel he got in mine it was close to empty to. He called the tow truck instead of messing with it. I was headed to boise. Got towed home jumped in my truck and finish the trip Haven't messed with the car since. No time.

I'm getting payed pretty good to build a dump truck. My truck runs prett toasty pulling grades when heavy. Empty wich it is 99% of the time fine. Running smarty on 9 3 3 7x09 smoky doesnt matter where smarty is set.. Was thinking head studs turbo and 3peice bd manifold in one wack. 7x10 injectors later. What gateless turbos are available? I've looked alittle and see delete plates but no turbos built gateless. My turbo hy35 is making a fluttering sound lately that's a new sound. Might be rubbing the wheel. Or should I love with the higer temps and get some .320 injectors to possibly clean up smoke . Would my temps go up I'd bump up to the 7x10s I'm not going to do a quad yet. Smarty is working well making very good power. I'd like to get the mechanical side first. I can't blame it entirely on the smoke. I've probly got 50k or more on these 7x09 sac injectors. I'll will do a hx40 vband and may fab a 5" down pipe. Been rding up parts to do the down pipe. Probably just by a hx40 pipe. My time lately is scarce to come by. Its spent burning up the freeway Thanks for the ideas on this

Check grid heater connections below drivers side battery. They're big cables with nuts that are probably loose. Mine were and my truck would randamly die going down the rd. Pull restart like nothing happened. My radio also loosening memory

Shhhhhhhh

205am

Quad chrome steering stabilizer seem to be the internet fix for death wobble