Evan

I'll look into the belt drive pumps. I could probably manage fabbing some brackets. I havent drug an air hose in a long time

**** at 2000rpm I could run a plasma cutter

I run a half inch impact off the dump truck on acasion but find my makita 18v stuff rocks. My set is growing have multiple snicket driving tools rated from 300-1000ftlbs. I would like to have good air on my cheap for seating beads and airing tires up for the trip home. I recently found I can mount two alternators on it easily. Or convert the ac pump I like seeing what this multiple pump system can do.

I wouldn't say transgo is the best. It includes thecdivider plate springs and directions You can do alot without the kit. I have alot of slack due to where I have my TV stop set. I did cut spring to length set only to take up slack. It may be doing alitt but it's so minor I cant tell I may make it slightly shorter I to wondered about a modified valve body as a core. Surprised dynamic hasn't been here yet to drop his wisdom

The silver star ultra orange packaging in light fog

If your confident do the shift kit Them youl find out what's been down innit It does rub I think I've seen some tiny cable clamps somewhere one on each side to hold it. Honestly I think my spring stretches to much.

I've probly put 6 or 7 grand in mine over the years. To me doesnt seem like much all upgrades came when parts needed replaced

I know dynamic it esnt huge on shift kits. Theres a ton to know about these valve bodies The guy that did my tranny did the tfod kit. Me being me I disabled it with a tfod kit on hand I up the 1-2 and 2-3 shift ports and made sure all the tfod kit was installed I think a shift kit is better than nothing to increase pressure and lockup The transgo kit does have good directions took me about 4 hrs to do it. I think if I can come up with a core and 500 bucks I'll try dynamics valve body.

I'm looking for a spring thanks for sharing that

Wait. That's at other end. Crawl under the truck visually see and feel that TV lever is opening all the way

Haha that is pretty slick. I'm thinking about welding a extension on my TV lever to take up slack at idle. But damn that spring is crafty.

3" coils on mine. Factory track control arms and steering. This thing drives and rides pretty good and with no sway bars front or rear Basically a mini 2ndgen front end.

I was going to say the same thing. Seen guys do that with no lift. Yes it's raining, wish it would stay in the mountains. When I did my 2" level it was so easy. Toss it in and drive. Keep in mind lowering the rear affects castor angle but probly not enough to worry about. Though we seem to be picky on this topic for some reason As long gear ratio can keep up with the added wind resistance were golden.

Same 3500 stuff. Yes 3rd gen bars are the same. Not sure where mike thinks the swing 1" different They do have a bushing on frame end instead of tierod end wich is slightly better

Maybe the 3rd gen track bar has ferry dust mixed in the paint. I tow quite abit and always have almost 2k in the bed. With a 2" front level I still have a couple inches to squat to level. With welder truck is only sitting about 1" over factory height

Wedge the throttle to wot. Truck off see how much play the TV lever has till it seats. Adjust cable from this point to just a fuzz of play in the lever. Then drive. You need to set so 1-2 shift is happening at about 2800rpm at wide open throttle . There is room for fine tunning characteristics. Small cable adjustments go a long ways Theres a plastic cover over the cable pull it off so you can see the cable slack

Set TV cable to have just a fuzz of slack at wide open throttle. I bend the bracket the cable goes through before it attached to TV lever to adjust it. You talking about the TV lever return spring? If so that wont do anything unless its not returning before you messed with it

If it were mine I'd put a gauge on it and see what pressure it's making. And then turn up the pressure some. A bump in pressure may be all you need. You could also tighten TV cable a smidge to make it shift under alittle more pressure. May not need to spend any money Cottman didn't do anything with the valve body?

Considering a newer truck is 25grand. These 24v old trucks make tons of power for cheap On the power side 600 injectors 600 fuel system 200 gauges 200 exhaust 200 programmer Should 4000 dollar tranny be included 1800 dollar pump. Air filters and oil? For having it for 15 years it's been a great truck reliable in my mind runs for low cost per mile with tons of power. It keeps me working and makes me money

Why alot of money. I can pull most all grades at the posted speed limit with the smarty and 7x009 injectors and most the time with my foot not on the floor. I do have to back off when it gets steeper to keep her cool. But itl still run with traffic

Front shocks at factory length are plenty long enough for 2-3" lift. At 2" positive castor is still attainable. Axle will move slightly towards the drivers side but almost noticable unless you grab a tape and start being picky. Drag link will still match steer angle and steering characteristics mostly remain intact. At 2" all these extras will affect the wallet more than they actually benifit the truck. Even 3" would be fine. The only mod I see maybe doing is longer sway bar links to keep it at factory angles and stabalizing the truck like it's intended. The truck will sway alittle more in corners. I found another cheap upgrade are poly sway bar mounts for the bar. If control arm bushings are worn out I'd recommend some bars off Ebay 200 bucks or less and they come with poly bushings Otherwise I say lift it and run it. Do recenter steering because it will be slightly off center. This is free to do. However ounce parts are sourced to remove rear block the rear will be super easy to work on compared to removing the coil springs. Neither is hard to do but often guys fight the coils trying to get spring compressors to work . I would never put a body lift on a truck unless it was a ragged out scrap pile off junk. These trucks already twist the cab up enough without putting more leverage on them

Ohhhh disregard then lol I researched and decided I'd be better off putting money in my 47re instead of converting to manual.

When pulling a grade a pick the gear and pull the hill. I never push the pedal far enough to force a downshift. 3rd is plenty strong if tranny is healthy and tourge converter is locked. The only time I'm Leary is towing gravel mtn rds in 1st and second where only fluid coupling is moving the truck.

I think when I measured mine was nose down about 5" removing the block would just about perfectly level it. I'd get ubolts and new spring plates. Maybe get rid of the overload if you dont need it. Leave ubolts long incase you want to adjust height with a 1"zero rate add a leaf. Offroad design, ruff stuff specialties and barns 4wd sell lots of leaf spring plates and ubolts to do whatever you want. All bolt on stuff no welding

I did a 2" level on the front and went ahead and got control arms for 2-3" lift since all my bushings were shot Mines a 3500 so might sit alittle taller in the rear. I thought about removing the rear block and doing a unbolt reversal. Still thinking about doing away with the rear block and doing a shackle reversal for a better ride. I'm running 285x75x17 roughly 34x11 tires. They rubbed slightly before leveling and that was with trimming the bumper plastic Sorry I cant find a better pic.