Evan

I pulled the bed off. Had a skidsteer handy to yank bed off. I can suck 30g gallons out of the tank. That's running with fuel light on. My girl friend ran it out but she ran with full light on for like 2 days. No clue how I cut the draw straw. I was alittle worried after reading about people running out at a 1/4 tank. My assumption is they dont follow directions or use common sence when installing parts. But we all know what we get making assumptions

I think that is about the recomended size for 150 injectors. I went with a 62 65 14. Unfortunately I havent put it on yet. I wanted to be able to upgrade from 100 to 150 injectoter.

59 bucks even had a small battery in it. I didnt even try to talk the 59 pawnshop price down just about worth it just to get the battery. So glad makita is holding true to 18v and not making obsolete tools like dewalt did to they're 18v line

I had my truck running to. So so easy to let hydraulics do the work

Yup its known secret. Work smarter not harder. No beating involved. Ok I did learn on the second bearing The first one I cried alot attempting to remove with a sledge hammer. Wtf is holding this on I kept asking myself.

Lol

Use a socket and short extension and trucks steering system to knock bearing loose. Back bearing bolts off a 1/8" or so turn knuckle and wedge socket and section against axle

Somewhere in this website a guy put a resistor on the apps wire and it stay locked longer then with out.

Theres enough of us in the bois area we should do something.

Sounds like a blast

Lol yeah. I feel like I'm stealing something when I exchange at lowes like they know I'm up to something

Is it locking 2nd by grounding the apps?

I think you need a jumper cable in the fuse box under the hood

I dont remember a spacer. Or how the dust shields attached. I usually have to knock a couple spot welds off with the grinder to remove them Branches and sage brush get stuck between the dust shields and rotor also had a bar wire mess one time that was all wrapped in the shield rotor and axle. They also get bent and contact the rotor and make funny noises. I'm not to sure what they are good at doing but I highly doubt they keep any dust out. The do more of keeping bad stuff in. Mine have been off for 5-8years

Will definitely park it if need be. Always thought about staying at little America Chain up if were desperate and need out.

I've got a set of chains for 35s that might fit. I to have never chained up on a paved rd. I agree a hotel is the best option. It's not the 6" storms but the ones over there dumping feet and drifting highways closed that I'm worried.

I remove rotor dust shields every chance I get

Christine and I are planning to burn to Kansas. 2400rd trip in November. Well be dragging a ford home and everything of her sons we can fit on the goose kneck. I'm slightly concerned about snow going through wyoming(Evanston) I'll need to get a front driveline before possibly a set of chains to toss on the steers . I told christine if conditions are bad enough we could regret going my mind says November will be fine but the voice in the back of my head wonders if I'm making a mistake in agreeing to go. 4wd will only take so far doesn't matter if we cant see . In my younger days I burned Orlando to here in 48hrs non stop. 3 of us driving dragnet a trailer. I'm not young anymore and I'm not sure how this trip will turn out. I know I cant pull 2400 miles without help. I also know I'll never sleep with christine at the wheel. Truck is solid trailer's got knee rubber. I'll tell her steer straight and keep temps in check dont lug it in over drive.

I agree with mike. A box is just a box these trucks are easily broken into

I dont think I'd cut it. I have about that much excess to.

I've read all that. Lol no more craftsman tools it's just stamp like everything else. I did get my 1/2" ratchet replaced at lowes but I did not say I bought ratchet 10years ago. Lowes did have a ratchet similar with a similar part number. I mostly dont have much craftsman left anymore. I have a 3/8 gear wrench that's my favorite and a few Pittsburg rackets and wrenches. I find I'm in harbor freight more often and prices beat craftsman stuff. It is cool to see lowes is replacing old craftsman stuff.

Lowes doesnt have to adhere to craftsman warranty only the tools sold after lowes bought the craftsman name.

Simple answer is no. Technical answer is yes lifted the control arms are at a greater angle and send more shock forces to the frame aswell as the track bar and steering all will be at a steeper angle. These additional stresses will be present wether you upgrade control arms or not. I just gave a buddy of mine my extra set of 3rd gen wheels today. These are 17x8 proper back spacing. Tires he mounted are 285x70x17 cooper sst pros. Hes pretty stocked he got them for a free deal. I got them in trade deal. His truck isnt lifted. Track bar may be all you need/want to upgrade. To keep axle centered under truck but even alittle of center with the factory fixed track bar you might not even notice that's why I say want. Your factory shocks will even work at 3" and under lifts. If your control arm bushings are worn you could go ahead and just throw on new arms off ebay. Stryker arms are like 180 for a set of 4 with poly bushings you have option to get stock 3 or 4-6" length arms. I'd be tempted to get the arms for 6" lift since 2-3" length arms are damn near the same length as stock. Guys will argue this till there blue in face saying you have to have arms shocks steering 2 chrome steering stabilizers yada but I've found through experience it's just not true. Yes I'll admit I've upgraded my track bar and control arms but only because they needed replacement and I will never replace a shitty part with the same shitty part. Ahead of shocks control arms and possibly track bar I think I'd recommend a upgraded sway bar end links and replace the bushings that hold the sway bar to the frame with poly. On my truck this made a very noticable difference in handling much more precise and predictable. The white trucks mine. I debated long and hard about coils or a spacer in front and finally decided on a 2" spacer because I didnt want a longer stiffer coil. The rear isnt lifted at all but does still run all factory 3500 tear springs so may sit alittle taller in the rear. It has about a 2000ld in the bed at all times. I did do all upgrades one at a time and actually did track bar first because it was in dire need of replacing. I fabhed a adjustable bar starting by removing track bar tie rod mounting point from the frame . I built a mount to use a bar with 7/8 heim joints this has been one of my better upgrades even at stock height. Ohhh rubber I run is 285x75x17 roughly 34x11 Some stuff on my truck may not be found on any other truck but i feel I've done well hacking stuff together have gained alot of experience

If it was my truck I'd toss a 2" leveling block on and call it a day. Possibly a 1" zero rate ada leaf paired with a long leaf in the rear. Depending on the front to rear stance your looking for. No reason to go hig wild spending money on a little lift. 4-6 is where youl be needing more. At 3" the only thing needed would be a adjustable track bar. Max factory control arm castor washers to positive side

I dont think smarty does any tranny changes other tha apps values. Maybe crank sensor is bad??. I'm very curious about ECM updates. Immediately assuming updates would be loaded on to smarty and then loaded onto ecm ?