Evan

All bolts stretch. Over time they strech more with heat cycles. Upgraded HARDER bolts do strech less. High horsepower high boost motors can actually lift the head off the block stretching bolts. Even upgraded harder bolts. That's why we want to upgrade our bolts when we see more fuel and pressures beyond what the stock cookie cutter bolts are capable of holding. If I was on very tight budget I'd for sure give em alittle more strech if it didnt work I'd only be out my time.

You guys on stock trucks running the wire tap what kinda empty and towing egt's are you seeing. Can you sustain a heavy pull on the throttle at 2000rpm without peddling off egts. The reason I ask is I'm starting to get the impression some are seeing higher egt than they may be admitting to. And may be peddling off temps while towing. Some dont tow making temps a non issue. I recently shut my programmer(smarty) off and am running 7x009 injectors with a 62mm turbo. I'm seeing a drastic reduction in egt(compared to stock turbo)my temps do not climb over 1200deg towing 10k with my foot on the floor. Seeing Higher pressures then I've ever seen 42ish sustained. Truck builds boost right now and accelerates so hard. Makes it hard not play with the mustang's rumbling next me at stop lights even though I know theyl spank me. I to want a quad someday but am more than pleased with 7x009 injectors and 62mm turbo. I also have plenty of room to grow to 150 injectors and add more wire tapped fuel later. For me I've always felt getting the mechanical side of things done first was the way to go. Many complain of smoke and egts but many are on stock turbos.many dont tow and dont need a turbo and I'll admit Ive been on 100horse injectors for years with stock turbo. But for years I've been peddling off temps on long grades with only minimal loads like 2 horses in alittle trailer. With 15k I was watching temps close and often peddling off temps on flat ground. But it did work and for years it did. It's looking like for me it was the right call to invest in turbo before quad. The truck now makes tons of driveable power with no fear of running temps to hot or relying on quad defueiling to keep temps in check. My driving style is light on the throttle my truck gets pretty decent fuel mileage though I've been unable to get away from 17-19mpg numbers that's probly due to truck being heavy and towing some most every tank. I'll admit under light throttle I do haze some smoke and also notice alittle more as the 47re grabs each gear. The truck will also roll black when I get after it diving into traff. But its pulling so freaking hard and even sometimes brakes the tires loose. I just have to wonder sometimes what works for otheres may not work for me. I wanted a quad pretty bad but could never make myself pull the trigger I later did find a smarty s03 for 200 bucks. It's no quad but has the ability to tune down low off idle power wich is where I like to have power I dont need to run my truck passed 2200rpm. Though I have the smarty shut off now because I had to sacrafise low end power for tranny longevity. Towing under light throttle the tranny slipped so I just had to get rid of the fuel down low wich as benifit bumps trans pressure. The smarty did curb my want for a programmer until finally the hy35 started to leak pretty good and had shaft play the turbo upgrad was needed and wanted. It literally has turned this truck into a driveable towing rig that I could be confident other drivers wouldnt melt it down. Before it was driveable and fun ran good but i could not allow my self to trust anyone else to tow with it. Kinda feel my experience's may match otheres pretty closely. It's just working for me.

Been doing some digging on remanned heads also overseas heads (new) I'd still be at 2k after buying studs and head gasket. Probly closer to 2200 2400 Could potentially fix it by touring bolts slight tigether by a couple lbs

Yes retourge old bolts any time heads off, new up grades bolts would definitely be wanted. Yes 2000 would be way cheap to get the head done. 3500-4000k to do. However 2000 seems high to do it yourself. But that's not pricing machine work and valve parts, just me thinking I could do it under 2k not k ow f what it truly cost for parts or machining.

That work great

I think it's the spikes on the front wheels cutting the air wheeeerd . Damn nice truck. It doesnt seem to smoke much under throttle considering the 175 injector plus wire tap and stock turbo

DAP says 62/65/14 and 62/68/12 performs very similar. Turbo does just clear it I did just turn my smarty down to setting #2. This puts me down to 350-380hp. The spool up on this turbo is unreal it's a massive air pump under the hood. And sounds like it. Personally I'd do 150 injectors boost fooler and turbo first. Get the mechanical side then add a programmer if more is wanted. 500hp may eat the nv4500 trans too ooooops or whatever trans your running

I agree 150s wire tap programer and 62 turbo. I dont know how much power I make but I have 100 injectors, smarty s03 and 62-65-14 sxe. Truck to me feels like it has Gobs of power is only smoky when I really lay into it builds boost almost instantly. I have not seen over 1200egt with the 62 turbo. Heres a teaser pic. I've thought about turning the smarty of I'm riding a thin line with my 48re I think. A 50-60 horse reduction by losing the smarter wouldn't be a bad thing

Its prett close to the tunnel like an inch clerance. I think shift tower actually comes through the tunnel

For my use 33-35 tires works well I have 3.55 gears. Around town slow driving 90% of the time a small tires work well. 31" tires are nice on the small side but okay. Though will wind a few more rpm on freeway than I like The way some talk my truck should melt under a load and get horrible fuel mileage since it's on 34" tire with 3.55 gears. Fact is I use it on the free way cruising at 80mph often towing then without switching tires it gets beat on running stop light to stop in city traffic. Somehow it just works looks good and gets pretty decent fuel mileage and has me driving in the rpm range that I like under 2000. Trying to buy this tracked machine it doesnt look it but it's twice as heavy as our rubber tired machine I move around alot in city traffic with my truck moving the small machines.

You guys might look at the brake light switch at the pedal. I had this damn thing cause me all kinds of issues. Abs, cruise control and ofcourse brake light issues.

Can you get a vid of the noise My mind goes to fuel. Is this popping under load? What do you consider high rpm I feel over 2200 is high but find many people run the cummins to alot higher rpms than I do. Is the truck building boost easily? Those are big injectors, is the quad wire tapped? That's alot of fuel I wonder if it's over fueled Have you played with any other tunes? Timing, turn off wire tap, stock tune compared to quad tunes,

I had heater hoses on with no clamps.

Head studs and turbo. I'm running a smarty, 7x009 injectors a and 62mm turbo. This combo makes gobs of power down low and smokes very manageable. I haven't done head studs yet so I'm running timing at factory settings. I dont know how much power I'm making but I recently found the tranny is at its limit. Towing 10k the 47re let go in 2nd gear I pulled over and turned down low fueling down 2 numbers this raises trans pressure and was instant difference. Tranny then didnt let go in 2nd. I still have the power only difference is I'm on the pedal more to get it wich moves the TV lever more for more pressure. I'm also running a turn buckled turbo my turbo is a 3rd gen style short actuator. Yes itl bark like crazy coming of the throttle under boost but I've yet to see any issues running with a turn buckled waste gate. Truck is pulling pretty good mpg numbers to. Coming up just shy of 600 miles for 28gal if fuel combination of stop and go city and free driving. I was thinking I'd be on quad band wagon but think I dont need to be now that I have this turbo. I think some here would be impressed with the low end spool and pretty clean power that this turbos making. Not to mention it sounds mean as **** like a huge air pump under the hood

Engine light comes on with abs light? Mone doesn't

Hose coming off thermostats is leaking

What about the turbo actuator?

Check cables under drivers battery for loose connections

Whys the check engine light on?

My water pump was rubbing inside the block making a noise for a long time.

I think if wanting to lift rear I'd look into a shackle reversal. Alittle more work then adding blocks but will get a couple "s and ride better. You could add a short leave from the junk yard cut just barel longer than the block and get just under an inch and still be able to run factory u bolts. I got in an accident where my axle was ripped from the springs. Because of this I'd be fearful in adding much more leverage to already tall factory block. https://store.dodgeoffroad.com/Dodge-Off-Road-Shackle-Flip-Kit-94-02-Ram-25003500_p_14.html

I just need truck to dig a clearance. Always something

I warmed control arm with a little torch joint pressed out easily. Before warming it didnt seem like press was going to push it out. Lots of good ways to do it Heat is dangerous though but I often use it and pray

There is really much pressure on the heater hose . Are you sure it blew or rotted. Mine stay on with no clamps and can pull them off easily by hand truck blow them off or leak with clamps not on. Yes they're on now but I've accidentally ran without them

Mike Broke 40psi with goosekneck and skidsteer on today egt sustaining under 1200 temps dont seem to go higher with more pedal. Hy didnt care more pedal more heat at same rate as pedals pushed. One thing I noticed is it seems to get to 1100 quick wich had me concerned but then it just stops building heat. This is flat ground though, hope it acts the same pulling grades