Evan

I think the 35w hid have like 3000 more lumens then our factory lights. So I agree 35w should be plenty. I might be off on that lumen number. I dont think youl be ordering another set up. This is mopar specific kit. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mopar-bixenon-morimoto-elite.html This kit you have to choose 9004/9007 bulbs in the pull down menu. The kit you linked. I think? https://www.theretrofitsource.com/9004-9007-morimoto-elite.html?preselect=51812%2C47589%2C47310%2C48181

Crazy how hard a wind sail is to pull compared to aerodynamic trailer. To me it seems like you may need injectors. Your truck sounds like mine when the injectors were all carboned over. Yup forget overdrive or even really attempting to run at the posted speed limit. With 100hp injectors things changed and I could run 80mph cruise control set with truck not even noticing the small rollers . Later added a 62 turbo pulling all grades at ease with egts comfortable below 12.5 with pedal avaible to accelerate and get around slow vehichles. My turbo is a smedding turbo. 62 65 14. To be honest I think I'd go with 62 68 12 that DAP sells they're basically the same turbo but I feel better support will come from DAP. There is a small chance support may be needed with these cheap borge turbos. Myswell get injectors from DAP to. I'm running injectors from Ducky Fuel injection. Have nothing but good to say about them. Took me a couple weeks of questions over the phone finally made the decision on 7x009 sac's theve been great now for 6 or more years. Time flys maybe 8 years

I'm going to do these to. Will have to see what the elite kit is it's about 28bucks cheaper than the other kit. I'll be a light scattering jerk with you, Make sure they are adjusted correctly and probly be good to go. Please report back I'm very interested how it goes for you. I'm going to do clear lenses. And 50w is tempting though I'm sure 35w is more light then I'll know what to do with.

Mine. does the same thing. It's weird have to watch main mileage trading to be sure I'm calculating fuel mileage correctly but I'm not sure I trust it either Has your indicator light changed color. Low washer fluid light. I swear mine has.

I've got probably 50k on sac 7x009 injectors 100hp. Boost fooled and turnbuckling the waste gate this really livend up the truck. But they do smoke when you put your foot in it. 150s will smoke more. I'm not sure that a quad would be worth it to tune smoke out on the low end. Youd be taking fuel away. Adding a 62mm s300 completly changed my truck runs cool tows cool and smokes much less. I guess they say it's over turboed being only 100horse injectors. But It runs much much better than stock and Egts are low. I will go to 150s when the need arises but so far I'm making plenty of power and even getting decent fuel mileage. The quad is nice because you can set egt max temp limits to defuel at wich will come in handy with both the hy and hx35 paired with 150s. I just cant see those turbos pushing enough air in towing situation to keep temps at or below 1250 while pulling grades. Even with no programming adding extra fuel. Youd be pushing 35psi plus with just injectors alone doing they're thing.. I feel like mike pushing 20" tires and the quad lol. Theres lots of ways to do it just gotta figure your way out. For me I'll go mechanical first every time. So far it seems to be working. I do have a decent tranny and cant hold injectors turbo plus added fuel through programming. Empty is okay but not towing. I'm on single disc with all tranny build upgrades but only have a shift kit installed. A dynamic valve body may make all the difference but I'm unable to swing 700 bucks for it right now. Good luck and have fun with it.

I'd toss some hygard or chevron thf1000 in the tranny and at very least bump pressure. Gauges, fuel system, injectors, turbo, programmer In that order

You lost me at 3406. What does that have to do with any pickup size. Lol

Glad you figured it out. Sometimes the simple things hide behind new things.

16-18 revving the piss out of it?? How much at idle?

Been tuning transmission through smarty. Have pressure and shifts set aggressive running no tunning. Running on sw2-4 shifts are tamed out on tm set at 3 I wanted to bring shifts back slightly to aggressive side so trucks shifting under more pressure (throttle) so I tried tourqe management at 2. Holy ****. Truck drove like it was at half power. I nearly had to put pedal to the floor to make it shift. Actually didn't think it was going to shift to overdrive I was on the floor. It not only was shifting north of 2500rpm it also felt like power was below factory tune. Tm3 under light throttle shifts at 2200ish 2500 under moderate throttle. Thought tm2 might firm and quickn light throttle shifts at the cost of alittle more rpm. Looked up smarty revo settings and tm2 is mild but should be above factory. But obviously not. I'm running tm set at 3 on sw2 right now tranny feels decent quick shifts but could be alittle more aggressive I could adjust TV cable tighter for more pressure but I'm already slightly limiting throttle because I'm maxing TV before throttle pedal wich for me is fine because I never run throttle to the floor. I'm trying to get most power out of tranny and smarty reduces power ( pedal) down low. I just serviced tranny bumped pressure slightly I cant bump it anymore. Im running chevron thf 1000 fluid in the 47re Trying to get more pressure at lower throttle imput and still have some smarty grunt off the bottom that I like. Just thought it was weird that tm2 was nearly undrivable and so under powerd compared to the factory tune

Yeah we cut house clearance's or dig them Been running ragged on this pre winter boom spring time always slow down alittle. Almost drove to California to buy another truck and trailer. A 86 Pete with 3406cat and 36' end dump. Truck had 22.5tires and trailer wasnt a single point so I passed. Wasnt meant to be. I even updated my license so I can drive out if state. Would have been a fun trip or turn into a nightmare in the snow or broke down. I'm sure wed find out what's wrong with truck or trailer be making the idaho border. Things like this rarely go smooth for me. Our trucks still leaking coolant

It's most likely fine. It may have came across the ocean on cantainer full of turbos and was the one on the bottom. Lol hopefully not.

If its making good power and not smoking a ton itl get decent fuel mileage. I don't think you need to complicate things and track fuel. Chances are it's idling alot this time of year so no real point to tracking fuel. Unless your running alot of miles and not idling much like mike is. Have fun with it. I'm just alittle jealous

I think I'm just going to weld it. Seeing no reason to have a waste gate. Lol. Mines a short actuator turbo moves waste got rod directly inline with the return outlet. A flexible or 90deg line might work for me. Did you start bolting it on.?

I'd also talk to them first. Its bent for sure. I'd like to see more pics of where that rod is running in relation to oil return line coming out of turbo. If you dont mind. Actually I see it. Looks like youd have to straighten it to bolt oil return on

On lug studs or big nut? Big nut I took to super tight with impact. Tourqe wrench on 9/16 studs I dont find a tourge wrench necessary on everything. Grunting tight or super tights good enough as long as I think I'm in the ball park of what spec is. I have not worked on a 2wd so take my advice with a grain of salt.

I'd probably leave alone and put a boost fooler on it along with boost gauge. Temps would most likely be reduced and power would be up slightly. I'm not sure that preload would even keep it from opening. My guess is it has a boost elbow on it too. But is throwing a over boost code because it's not boost fooled

Does a 68cover clear coolant line Did I get gyped on cover and wheel or just wheel?

No TV motor opens you up for more help. Makes troubleshooting easier. Is TV valve moving when throttle is pressed? That would be my first thing I'd look at. All battery connections clean and secure even grind heater block below drivers battery all ground and cables on starter along with obvious connections at battery posts. If I was they're I'd go to grid heater connections below battery these are often over looked and can cause issues when the nuts come loose. Does it have a resistor to fool computer from ever seeing 105psi. Tranny builder would have put resistor in at same time as shift kit if they put a shift kit in it. How many miles on rebuild is they're more than normal clutch material in the pan. Big chunks are bad Is filter plugged? Should have serviced tranny a couple thousand miles after it was built. Any bolts screws laying in pan. Anything come unplugged inside tranny. Have bands been correctly set now or during tranny assembly? Some if this stuff youd assume is correctly set but I've seen some crazy **** that I myself have over looked and that those that are payed to do also over look or just dont know. Its probably something simple. Good luck Correct amount of ATF in transmission?

Its parked on cloverdale and just before executive headed north on cloverdale. Long bed dark blue looks like a stock truck. I didn't have time to look at it but I think I saw moulding on the bed so maybe a 12v. From the glimpse I got its very clean

I put a long digging bar through the studs tourqe to lug spec wich is like 118ftlb I think for a 9/16 stud. Big nut is super tight

I cant tell a difference with 2stroke. I dump a quart in here and there for the pump. Then I forget for a few tanks. No change in idle either.

Yes

I want to say it works incredible 7x009 injectors alone with truck running its factory program, smoke is greatly reduced actually almost gone has good power off idle while towing egt's are a non issue. Turbo is actually lighting sooner as its breaking in. moving slow at 1000rpm it's got a pronounced whistle that it didnt used to have. No it's not a leak ;) doesnt whistle like a ford but it is noticeable. You can hear the air being pulled through the filter pretty fiercely if that's a word towing it has power to accelerate up grades while egts stay below 1200. Before it had power but unable to accelerate because egt's would climb. I did have to turn smarty off because it was just making to much for the tranny to handle under light throttle accelerating with a load. Empty it was fine. Boost numbers without smarty seem to be down about 5 ish psi. I havent broke 40 since going to the factory tune. 38ish is the most I've seen dragon a trailer up grades. Driving around empty it hits 30 but that's about it. I rarely push the pedal down very far. I dont know what fuel mileage is it's spending quite about of time idling now that were dropping below zero. Not sure what my next upgrade is maybe a valve body. Just leave it alone and save for what I'm sure is coming since it's got over 150k on it. Yeah I need to do something about the ugly turnbuckle holding the waste gate closed. I gota say I'd recommend a 62 turbo paired with 100-150 injectors heck maybe 75s. No programmer needed. I'm sure timing tuning would get some more power and fuel mileage bit this set up is bolt and go, at least on my truck.

Make sure pinion nut is tight. Mine somehow backed off. Allowed pinion to walk in and out if ring gear. It did some damage but I'm still running it.. Front drive line can vibrate and sound like its coming from the rear of the truck. I dont think 120 is that hot but it us warmer than the rest.