Evan

I've never found a 47 for 150. Think 400 is the lowest ive seen . I haven't looked in dynamics area bought 10hours from me.

Looks interesting

I got my truck at 150k . All ujoints shot except inside the dana 60 I've never done thise yet. Been thinking about doing them because I'll have to listen to one clatter limping one day. I have done front driveline a total of 3 times now to get to 350k truck isnt ran in 4wd very often but has had quite few adventures pulling the horses through slop I was unsure of. Rooster throwing on the turbo for miles hanging in the borrow ditch kinda adventures. With the please dont stop prayer rolling in my head. Rear drive line only ounce

500 or whatever mike has is alot of power. I also believe he believes it to be reliable and was saving money. Maybe in his head keeping prices below what a 47re costs

Man at 327 my trucks a baby compared to some here. Its amazing to see the 2nd gens running alot of miles

Delo 15/40 here to. Run it in my pickup and all our dirt equipment. I change every few months. Not sure on my oil change mileage intervals but I ran about 45k last year.

It's not drilled out. Is that s300?

I also doubt the tone ring. I've found my truck to be mostly trouble free only needing consumable parts. Good luck sorry I can't help

Lol. Ford or dodge even make parts.. **** seems all the same to me.

I agree. Stock 4th gens would cower till the stick center seat area needs to be grabbed.

Takes work that good shots of light as the eye sees it and not the camera. My silver stars always look prett good in photos but brighter than actual. This ball of flame coming at me didnt look near this bright. This could possibly be close to how my silver stars actually look

Lol. Ford on our trucks isnt really a bad thing. They've always had tighter steering however you need football feild to turn one

We care because?

I see no reason not to run 4th. Dodge also feels the same. As it warranty fix for 3rd gens

Since were talking tires sleds and brakes. I just grooved my basically bald tires. This made huge improvement on snow. Ive also aired down to eat some shoulder. These tires are not quite to 50k .Being in 4wd keeps the truck ging straight hen 47re shifts to 2nd gear. My rotors and pads are some kinda ceramic voodoo pad and napa rotors show little wear after 45k this is towing off and on. Sometimes with no trailer brakes. Rotors are consumable mostly not even worth 30bucks a rotor to turn them. These my go the life of the truck and stopping power is pretty darn good. I do roll up to all stop lights like I'm in big truck maybe that's why my pads and rotors last. The 47re also has a fair amount of braking and down shifts well. I've drove trucks with exhaust brakes and never thought they were the nats as for slowing down but when your at 32k your slowing way before you get to the stop Hes a she, christine and seems to fight the machine in deep snow. If it's only 2ft deep shel find the 4ft drifts to get stuck in.

Desert snow

Were getting hammered here I idaho snow machines mandatory. Tcase been in 4high for a few days. Mike's probably got more snow where hes at.

Over 45k on my front pads and rotors. I bet they go 80

The 2nd gen bars going to be hit and miss. I dont think the 3rd gens much better we eat them on our 2007. I'd make sure the drag link and track bar are very close to parrel mounting point to mounting point. The curve in bar does not matter. If they are I'd go from there. Even possibly adjusting castor angle so it's got more positive. Popping leads me to believe something is loose. Most the time popping gets worse or when it goes away it's now so loose the popping stops.

Here's mine

I'd run 15/40

You can't adjust it parrel. Nor can a alignment. It is what it is. I think the drag is actually at a slightly steeper angle then the track bar with the 4th gen steering. Slightly slightly I do not have 4th gen steering so I cant verify. Drag link mounts under knuckle on 2nd gen. On 4th gen tie rod mounts to knuckle and drag link mounts to tie rod. This also shorts drag link angle by that couple inches. Only talking slight differences but noticably in wheel specially with sloppy track bar. You probably notice steering wheel pull hitting speed bumps? That's because the slight amount out of parallel causes them to cycle in different arc through suspension travel. You have the track bar basically fighting the drag link track bar will win the battle and move the steering out of it's way making it bump steer.

I bend the long air chuck. Stick it in a trailer rail or something until the bend is adjusted correctly to air up inside dual. Seems a small straight air gauge works most the time.

Camera isnt focusing on the headlights and is over exposing the lghts. Camera will adjust shutter for best exposure for the overall all photo wich is on average a dark shot wich mens anger exposure brighter photo over exposed

Bump steer is because the drag link angle doesn't match after doing 4th gen steering. Alitttbump steer is liveabl but is intensified with a sloppy track bar. Rubbtbushing I consider shot even if they dont show it when tierod end is visually sloppy. I'm running 7/8" heims on my truck and have been building 7/8" heim track bars for 3rd gens because they pretty much bolt on the 3rd gens. On 2nd gens its alot of work or requires a lift and bolt on bracket at frame end the lift is needed to be able to adjust drag link and track close to parallel with a dropped pitman arm. I could see bad others wiping out track bar joints in one good jolt. Even a knew arm. I do not know what I'd do upgrade if fabrication is not an option to cut junk of the frame and fabricate knew mounts. Someone at Carlisle or maybe dodge offroad may have the right pitman and track bar upgraded mounting bracket combination to keep track bar and drag link parrel.