Evan

Yes retourge old bolts any time heads off, new up grades bolts would definitely be wanted. Yes 2000 would be way cheap to get the head done. 3500-4000k to do. However 2000 seems high to do it yourself. But that's not pricing machine work and valve parts, just me thinking I could do it under 2k not k ow f what it truly cost for parts or machining.

That work great

I think it's the spikes on the front wheels cutting the air wheeeerd . Damn nice truck. It doesnt seem to smoke much under throttle considering the 175 injector plus wire tap and stock turbo

DAP says 62/65/14 and 62/68/12 performs very similar. Turbo does just clear it I did just turn my smarty down to setting #2. This puts me down to 350-380hp. The spool up on this turbo is unreal it's a massive air pump under the hood. And sounds like it. Personally I'd do 150 injectors boost fooler and turbo first. Get the mechanical side then add a programmer if more is wanted. 500hp may eat the nv4500 trans too ooooops or whatever trans your running

I agree 150s wire tap programer and 62 turbo. I dont know how much power I make but I have 100 injectors, smarty s03 and 62-65-14 sxe. Truck to me feels like it has Gobs of power is only smoky when I really lay into it builds boost almost instantly. I have not seen over 1200egt with the 62 turbo. Heres a teaser pic. I've thought about turning the smarty of I'm riding a thin line with my 48re I think. A 50-60 horse reduction by losing the smarter wouldn't be a bad thing

Its prett close to the tunnel like an inch clerance. I think shift tower actually comes through the tunnel

For my use 33-35 tires works well I have 3.55 gears. Around town slow driving 90% of the time a small tires work well. 31" tires are nice on the small side but okay. Though will wind a few more rpm on freeway than I like The way some talk my truck should melt under a load and get horrible fuel mileage since it's on 34" tire with 3.55 gears. Fact is I use it on the free way cruising at 80mph often towing then without switching tires it gets beat on running stop light to stop in city traffic. Somehow it just works looks good and gets pretty decent fuel mileage and has me driving in the rpm range that I like under 2000. Trying to buy this tracked machine it doesnt look it but it's twice as heavy as our rubber tired machine I move around alot in city traffic with my truck moving the small machines.

You guys might look at the brake light switch at the pedal. I had this damn thing cause me all kinds of issues. Abs, cruise control and ofcourse brake light issues.

Can you get a vid of the noise My mind goes to fuel. Is this popping under load? What do you consider high rpm I feel over 2200 is high but find many people run the cummins to alot higher rpms than I do. Is the truck building boost easily? Those are big injectors, is the quad wire tapped? That's alot of fuel I wonder if it's over fueled Have you played with any other tunes? Timing, turn off wire tap, stock tune compared to quad tunes,

I had heater hoses on with no clamps.

Head studs and turbo. I'm running a smarty, 7x009 injectors a and 62mm turbo. This combo makes gobs of power down low and smokes very manageable. I haven't done head studs yet so I'm running timing at factory settings. I dont know how much power I'm making but I recently found the tranny is at its limit. Towing 10k the 47re let go in 2nd gear I pulled over and turned down low fueling down 2 numbers this raises trans pressure and was instant difference. Tranny then didnt let go in 2nd. I still have the power only difference is I'm on the pedal more to get it wich moves the TV lever more for more pressure. I'm also running a turn buckled turbo my turbo is a 3rd gen style short actuator. Yes itl bark like crazy coming of the throttle under boost but I've yet to see any issues running with a turn buckled waste gate. Truck is pulling pretty good mpg numbers to. Coming up just shy of 600 miles for 28gal if fuel combination of stop and go city and free driving. I was thinking I'd be on quad band wagon but think I dont need to be now that I have this turbo. I think some here would be impressed with the low end spool and pretty clean power that this turbos making. Not to mention it sounds mean as **** like a huge air pump under the hood

Engine light comes on with abs light? Mone doesn't

Hose coming off thermostats is leaking

What about the turbo actuator?

Check cables under drivers battery for loose connections

Whys the check engine light on?

My water pump was rubbing inside the block making a noise for a long time.

I think if wanting to lift rear I'd look into a shackle reversal. Alittle more work then adding blocks but will get a couple "s and ride better. You could add a short leave from the junk yard cut just barel longer than the block and get just under an inch and still be able to run factory u bolts. I got in an accident where my axle was ripped from the springs. Because of this I'd be fearful in adding much more leverage to already tall factory block. https://store.dodgeoffroad.com/Dodge-Off-Road-Shackle-Flip-Kit-94-02-Ram-25003500_p_14.html

I just need truck to dig a clearance. Always something

I warmed control arm with a little torch joint pressed out easily. Before warming it didnt seem like press was going to push it out. Lots of good ways to do it Heat is dangerous though but I often use it and pray

There is really much pressure on the heater hose . Are you sure it blew or rotted. Mine stay on with no clamps and can pull them off easily by hand truck blow them off or leak with clamps not on. Yes they're on now but I've accidentally ran without them

Mike Broke 40psi with goosekneck and skidsteer on today egt sustaining under 1200 temps dont seem to go higher with more pedal. Hy didnt care more pedal more heat at same rate as pedals pushed. One thing I noticed is it seems to get to 1100 quick wich had me concerned but then it just stops building heat. This is flat ground though, hope it acts the same pulling grades

Did you ever cycle the key. You may be able to read codes for free. I do know I've been unable reset codes with a snapon and mac scanner. My truck is wheeerd 2002 doesnt trip a check engine light even when injection pump went out. Not sure I've ever seen a check engine light.

I havent had any problems with my 3rd gen aluminium 17s I've had them on for about 50k Tires are rated at 3195 gives me roughly 2k of tongue weight since truck weighs 10k. I havent ever axled out the goosekneck but put load over trailer axles when possible Even if I have truck tires running over 3195 on acasion I dont think it's a issue. Actually I'm running 60psi wich puts them under the 3195 rating and they're still fine. I tow a fair amount but not super heavy. 10k sometimes 15.

I'm not sure that's the case today