Evan

Yes so you run listed tire size not actual rubber measured in front off you. Being passed I'm off 1ish wich I figured to be the .25-.5" variance between tires. I bet dropping to 32.5" squashes my 1mph being passed. Man why am I even putting the effort in thinking about this

I highly doubt I'm off 5. Though I may be off .25-.5" measuring tires. Manufacture will list specs for they're tires. I think mine list at 33.2. Either way it's close enough. Everyone passes me when I run 1800-1900 rpm. I dont think the tacks off

I go off actual measured tire size not sidewall. It's about 1mph off my 2012 caravan that has stock tires. I could care less what resell is not sure odometer is working correctly anyways. I haven't verified speed with GPS but it seems close enough for me. I'd assume all those that plug sidewall size into the smarty are off. In my case that would be off by 2.25" of rubber

3.55 35s 47re overdrive. Smarty set tire size at 32.75

Wouldn't more timming creat more heat because more fuel is being burned creating more boost power and heat kinda in a full circle Unless only timming is added and no fuel I guess

I never had a dana 70 to compare. Measuring dana80 wms to dana 60 front wms with dually spacer removed dana 80 was 4" overall wider I ran it this way for awhile but I could see the front was narrower and it bugged me so I orderd 1.5" spacers for the front. I went 1.5" instead of 2" to keep the spacer as small as possible . In hind site 2" would have saved from having to trim all studs because the protruded passed the spacer. I have picture somewhere with no spacers on I'll see if i can find

Probly cause your final drive ratio is off kidding I'm like hows he know its wrong,everyone's wrong

Yes I think theres sw 80s but rare. I did alot of research before going to one wheel on my 3500 I hated it as a dually. From my research I found guys that said you cant do it to some that said you have to change axles. The width difference is close enough almost none but you would ever notice . Yanked the dana60 dually spacers off the front dropped a bed on it slapped 3rd gen wheels on. No special mods no nothing. I decided that most talking on that subject on forumns were most likely just talking and never done it. There is one thing I was worried about that is the dana 80 hub is a larger diameter. I tried to bolt after market wheels on a 12v dana80 the wheel bore was smaller than the dana80 hub. Talking the big hole the lug nut pattern goes around. 3rd gen wheels fit it perfect many said they wouldnt work.

Payed 200. This one needs a water pump. Tonight I got it tore down motor mount off and ready to yank timing belt and water pump reinstall new. This car is in surprisingly good shape. It's not a tdi just the normal gas 2.0 120k on odometer runs decent. We payed 2500 for our tdi jetta this one seems to be in overall alittle better shape. Wish it was easy to work on like our trucks. Tomorrow should be going back together

Killed a few deer with 115vlds out of my 2506.. also killed with 115 nosler bits 100 core lots, triple shocks, partitions, 75 vmax ;) 85 nose bt. I've killed alot of big game with the 2506 deer and elk. 115 vld's and 115 nos bt are my go to bullets run em about 2900 and they just kill. But so does any bullet put in right spot. The nos bts take alot less work to print tight compared to Berger vld . Vld is worth it though ounce a load is found. I found it likes alittle jump to lands where bt is touching

Interesting thread.

Lol. No switch needed it will burn out but is alittle heavy to be playing like that. Ohhhh man if I stood on the brake till the turbo lights you'd lose site of everything in a black cloud

This is a good read. I read most of it because I think my fan quit kicking on a few years ago. I used to hear it kick on pulling grades but haven't heard it come on in a long time. Maybe it comes on partial or something. I'm running the starter that came on my truck in 2002 6 or 8 years ago I rebuilt it with kit from Larry Bs http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins-dodge-denso-starter-easy-rebuild-kit-94-06.html I have seen it run alittle hotter then normal while towing heavy in city traffic with outside temp in the 100s It never used to get over 190. Now it gets over 190

Sw5 is doing good no surging at just under 70mph and holding 5psi or slightly less. Had string of cummins trucks trailing me when I took this today. Trailed me for about 40miles. All about the mpg baby that's what I tell crystal when she asks why I never go the speed limit. today I think truck is smoking alot more in the heat. Out side temp was 107 tranny temp verified that on start up. I couldnt keep it from smoking like a freight train and stayed smoking after the turbo lit at 1500. I might try stock tune and see if smoke becomes less. But I really like throttle feel of idle pulls so damn hard

Nice. Were you towing. I'm wondering what alittle bigger turbo would do for my smoking and might bump boost well into head studded area. I sustain 30-35 pulling grades towing with hy35. And smoke like freight train on bottom end. 7x09 injectors

The dana is 3500 axle is wider than the dana 70. I'm running 1.5" spacers on the front to mach it. Don't tell anyone though. Lol My truck is 3500 I made a single rw out of. Best part is the matching rubber trim on bed and cab. Bed is off a 98 before the moulding went away. Mines an 02. I wouldnt worry about springs. Everything will bolt up. I'd convert to disc brakes if yours isnt. Can use all kinds of parts to do that for cheap. Google's your friend if your interested in converting drums to disc.

I agree my mind says its function is to bring temp up to operating. I guess if transmission did get to 190 it might make it hold at 190 more solid instead of rising right passed My tranny runs well under 150 . If I run to store a quick 10 minute drive it come up to maybe 110 will cruise down freeway empty about there to. Even towing 130. Hottest temps I see 150-60 standing in stop and go traffic Mike's fan idea sounds good but I just dont think it will make a difference with fluid nit miving much

I dunno. I thought tm setting to high was causing surging. But tm at 6 on sw5 is livable. Tm on 6 on sw7 is like driving down the free way constantly stomping on the throttle and instantly letting Must have to do with combination of fuel curve coming on sooner on sw7 along with the tourge management. Doubt I see any advanced timing until I pull a grade towing. That's why I've backed it off to tm 6 is the smarty pretty much running full tilt for what ever that's worth 50hp of full tilt. I kinda wish this turbo would die already then I can upgrade and quickly blow the bead gas. Lol

2" leveling block. Longer control arms for 2-4" lift. I may make a set of control arms longer and adjustable. I bent one of these on a rock but not enough to affect anything. Been kinda bummed since now that I know there .120 wall tube or less. 187 off ebay for all 4. Good welds good poly bushings much better than factory. I just expect to much 4 or5 doesn't matter. I honestly like 5 better for looks and saw a slight egt reduction over 4". I go aluminized I change it every few years so no reason go stainless. I'm in dry climate to with very little rust issues I highly recommend the fte twister muffler. Put it on instages 17.5 then add a second if to loud. I've got 2 17.5" twisters in mine. It's got that I'm here idle with alittle whistle but no tinny rasp like a straight pipe at 1800 it sounds like its ripping the air apart but no drone a different cool sound. 1 twister droned to much towing of I didnt tow I probly would have left it was alittle louder across the board. I get guys walking up to me asking where I bought my exhaust

Trying 6 2 2 on sw5 now. Meant to get a filter but didnt. smoke seems the same as 5 3 2. Shifting alittle sooner wich is good my TV is on tight side. I think you may be right I cant hardly believe I said that. Doesnt have the touchy throttle feel like sw#s 7-9. Wich would mean fuel curve does change on sw#s. I liked 7 but it surged bad. Well see if sw5 surges bad on tm 6

How many miles? If you replace it can I have it?

Youd have to drive it. I have no idea what I was going to say

Youd have to drive it. Maybe I'm due for a air filter

That's an exhaust mount. Lol its bolted on with transmission mount it appears to be the same exhaust mount that's on my 47re Beware that you will need to spread the frame to get the crossmember out. I welded a bar on bottle jack. I'm almost wondering if the auto and manual use the same crossmember and mount.

A 24v will compensate for altitude well not altitude but the lack of air. It will adjust the fuel air ratio timming everything really. The 12v wont, itl run richer with less air, less dense air at altitude. Itl always push the same timming and fuel unless you physically change it. However the vp and all computer controlled trucks will make more power at sea level because the air is dense more of it. The fuel air mixture there will create more power it's like stuffing more air and fuel into the combustion chamber. That's why most all hp ratings are done at sea level or very close to see level