Evan

Dunno. If hes close to oil change it's worth a shot. Keep oil, coolant, fuel rubber side down let everyone else worry about the small details Heck freak mike out and drop 3 quarts off atf in the motor then runn for a few days then change the oil. Better yet get a cheap 5 gallon bucket of tractor fluid from wallmart. Drain old oil refill with it. Run for a few days then drop tractor fluid and change oil and filter. Just dont put water in it that's not good on bearings but also not the end of the world

What do mean by respond. My max tow gauge responds as fast as I raise and lower the throttle

I've seen high pressure so I changed oil and filter. Right back to normal after change. KISS

But dunno cant tell a difference with or without. What's weird is I think it idles smoother no timing added. But at idle shouldn't be affected, right?

Yes. I'm running no additional timing towing and alittle when empty. I'm not to concerned with timing I'm averaging 17-18 towing alittle om each tank but over 90% of each tank is running the freeway empty 9400lb truck weight. I haven't messed with timing vs mo timming ti lnow if it changes mpg. Probly nit I rarely push the pedal over half way. Smoke seems about the same to. Smarty does fuel more down low and I like that. Even sw6 fins just right. No timming added. Injectors, boost fooler and turn buckle run nice to with factory tune with boost reaching 30 easy and maxing at 35-38 depending on grade and weight being towed. Doesnt have the off idle pep that smarty brings to the table. Also cool egts. Quad would be super cool to have but unneeded smarty also not needed. Also not sure about timing and 23deg no head studs and pulling a grade at 3/4 or full throttle. Empty that would be badass. I'm at the just drive it point. Enjoying the power and ability to run grades loaded and not peddle off egts for an entire pull. I also get decent mpg considering 35s, 3.55s and a truck that's 9400lbs empty.

I ran 100hp I injectors woth a boost fooler. Lots of smoke plenty of power good fuel mileage. Only smokes if your in it hard. Yes itl fog out a intersection. I also ran without boost fooler and waste gate was not clamped shut. Very dramatic reduction in power compared to running with boost fooler and waste gate clamped shut. Also picked up cooler egts and an easy 10psi woth bother and waste gate clamped shut. I'm now running a smarty, now smokes more and only makes alittle more power. I haven't noticed much change in mpg. I do like that I have more pep from idle to 2200 rpm I think I'd be torn on turbo or quad as my next upgrade. Probly turbo to get mechanical side first.

I tow on 3.55s anywhere from 5k to 20. 99% of my towing is stop and go city traffic the other 1% is freeway and mtn rds. My truck does very well. I'm also on 35s. I have priced parts to rebuild my dana 80 with 410s Had my pinion nut back off this allowed my gears lash to walk in and out. With me doing the work myself I'd still be in the dana a small fortune. I haven't priced the dana 70 or hybrid 70 but I cant imagine they're much cheaper. If you find a rear 410 axle then consider swapping 410 gears into the front.. dana60 has tons of aftermarket support tons of used parts used axles. The ballpoint dana 60 in our trucks isnt very desirable so often times the offroad guys dont want an arm and a leg for them. If you tow daily I think a gear swap might be worthwhile. If you tow on slow mtn roads with speed limits under 65, If you tow freeway with 80mph speed limits I say no to lower gears 3.55s put me right in the power on overdrive at 70-75mph

KISS

Exactly. I've done one set of rotors all the way around. In 15 years. Rotors are cheap price wise and probly quality. Easy to change. If I do another set in 5 years it wont hurt my feelings much kinda a maintenance part. I did have fronts turned one time but not sure it's worth turning when rotors can be had for cheap

For what it's worth company I used to work for had 04 5.9 with a pac brake, empty it seemed to work well. But running at 32k you dam sure better drive like you have no brakes on the pedal or engine. It was manual tran. Most dont run around that heavy and I dont recomend it though we do sometimes. I dont lnow if the pac brake doesnt work very good or had an improper installation. I do know an engine brake is not on my list of wants. I do get plenty of years out of my pads and rotors. Though I dont normally run the cheap pads. Just did all rotors and pads so it should be good to go for 8-10 years. I do tow light and on mtn rds I'll run 4low coming down. Mopar man. I'm running some carbon fiber wiches brew pads. Lol. I'll let you know in 8-10 if the word out rotors.

I think I'm going to do 4th gen. I think I can retain my power mirrors. Though I'm not sure the heat works anymore. Any of you guys willing to post photos of the 3rd and 4th gen mirrors mounted. I'm really tired of not being able to see and scared to change lanes

I dont know if mines an SLT. What does the mounting bracket look like. I'm assuming bolt pattern changes is that what the mounting brackets for?

I have race truck mirrors on my truck. Have lived with them for about 15years. I now have welder in the back window so only have mirrors. The race truck mirrors look good but I cant see **** so many blind spots and no view when turning my head to see ttaffic. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232151453539 These caught my eye. I dont care that they have led. Dont even really care if there manual or powerd adjust. I think they look good and should improve rear and side view. Driving our dump truck is a better experience because I can see so much better. What mirrors is everyone running. I always look to ebay first for most parts like this. Thanks for any replied

My hy35 3.55 gears 47re with 7x09 injectors would run 800ish cruising and peg 1500 towing grades. Adding quad boost fooler and turn buckling waste has reduced towing egt to 1000-1300 depending on grade head wind and what's being towed. Empty I now see 700-800 cruising at about 6-10psi. No peddling off egts. Running posted speed limit on all grades. Pulling 30-35psi. I'd be torn on gearing down. I like rpm st 1800 to cruise at 70 I have 35" tires. Smaller tires or taller gears would increase cruise rpm. Everything is compromise. Maybe 373s. Gearing a dana 80 is a big investment just to buy parts. Changing tires would see the same results. But doubtful the high temps disappear. . Today I hopped across a culvert as it was washing out. The tall tires just barely made it. I'm so glad I had them. Honestly everthing just worked. Turbo spooling instantly stabbing the throttle to keep front in pointed down hill as horse trailers coming around. Very lucky to be here posting a reply. clawing in the ditch for dear life. I'll always take the ditch over the creek side. Gota stay rubber down I've had thoughts of dropping to 265s but now I think I'm staying right here. Today truck did amazing in adverse conditions got crystal 2 horses golden dog and me home safe. Just barely but it did it.

My truck with plugged up injectors got about 15 empty. I now see pencilled figures anywhere between 15-20 depending on how much I tow on each tank. I've seen 22 on long trips cruising through Oregon at they're posted speed limit. Offcourse empty. My empty weight is 9400lbs I'm seeing 17ish latly towing a few times on a tank. Latly just towing horses on the weekend. Running the freeway empty and stop and go boise traffic during the week. I haven't seen the smarty helping my mpg yet. My biggest mpg gain came from 100hp injectors paired with a light foot. Also saw a slight increase in mpg after having the tranny rebuilt. 12 empty is not good even for stop and go traffic. My Chevy v8s did that good. Actually the Chevy small blocks are pretty damn good trucks. Tow good and get decent mileage while empty My 2005 Chevy needed no repairs up until I left it at 170k. Change oil and filters and drive it. sometimes I thought about getting a Chevy as my daily driver kinda made no sense driving a cummins just on the weekends. Crystal wants a cummins but I'm pushing a Chevy on here. 2nd gen. 5.9s just cost to much for what you get. Did the donation section go away. I'll make a donation to help the site but I wont pay to post. Yeah I know doesnt make sense but that's how my mind works

I may be right there with you. I haven't drove my truck much in the last 8 years. I recently came back to the family business so now my old girls back to working. It used be parked unless crystal drove it accasionaly. Our 6.7 cummins will bust 400 this summer it's at 385 right now. It's also been pretty good very few repairs. 1 clutch, head gasket and injectors so far. Only irritating issue is its eating track bars like they're candy. I'll be fixing that though. And going to the 08.5 + steering. It's on stock tires to dads done a few sets of factory steering both OEM and napa junk. Though I'm not sure how long it's going to go. I feel that it's down on power compared to when it was new. My truck walks all over it. But I'd much rather yank equipment around with it then torture my 47re.

1injection pump, tranny rebuild at 280k Rest had just been maintenance. For 15 years she stayed with me. Through 3 relationships I couldn't repair. Lol Heres to another 300k. At 300725 now. Cant post a picture but snagged one of the odometer at 300000

I bought 3rd gen wheels for 100 bucks. This forum is worthless without being able to upload pics. I might pay like 40 a month for that privilege

Stanley. I wouldnt be afraid to run it. I've ran tractor transmission in my 47re with good results. My transfercase and front and rear diff.. My truck ticked over 300k yesterday. In the last 150k its seen lots of tractor fluid.

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Well its mine. No hurry to put it on though. Gota roud up gaskets and bolts hotpink high temp paint

I'm on the way

Broadn your search to include 2nd gen cab and chassis 2wd trucks. I found one for 2500 had 120k miles. Only needed minor TLC. Was a x highway district truck and has a dump bed on it worth more than the truck. I dont really see the need for a dually. A gooseneck is 6k, what's your machine weigh? How bought the hive boxes. If your not over 15k I think I'd just keep to a single rear wheel. If your over 20k plus truck maybe consider a dually. But that would be a maybe

Probly got water or amoral inside the buttons on the steering wheel I know my cruise guit for a few years then started working again

I have an opportunity to get the bd manifold at a good price. New in the box. https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-1045947-exhaust-pulse-manifold Is it a worth while upgrade. I'd be be trading labor, but not sure I want it. It does look good, will it make any power? Lower egts? Help turbo spool quicker? Bd claims it does but from researching I'm not sure. Might just be a pretty part. Figured I'd ask you guys first because I'm torn its literally eating me up not being able to decide.