Evan

Theres a set of terminal connections below drivers side battery. Check the nutz make sure they're tight. Mine was dieing because nuts were loose

You think getting rid of the heat grid helps any?

I can run even wi th h timing plugged in adjust menu that way I can quickly set from tm3-tm 5 just by selecting catcher number. With 7x9 injectors I thought adding more timing turned the s03 into head gasket killer. I think turbo is spoiling quicker with less timing. Catcher 8 is tm6 with timing on 2 d5 it is breaking g tires loose painfully easy pulling away on a green traffic light. Tm3 isn't enough on the bottom for me. 4 pulls noticably harder. Gets trailer moving with less throttle Am I safe to run timing at 3 I was keeping at 2 because my minds talked me into thinking 2 is safe. I have no weird shifting after adjusting tranny. Even on tm6

Boost fooler made my boost jump from 21-22 to 35+ and reduced egts a very noticable amount. Truck whistles alot more to I also have waste gait turnbuckled si it cant open so far I see no negatives to mechanically locking it shut.

Wait I thought that was mike

I'm torn on single or triple disc. I did all upgrades in my but stopped short and did a single disc. Another grand would have got me a triple disc. I did do a goerend billett flexplate. At 300 bucks it was cheap in my mind. The stock flex plate is very thin in comparison I didnt want to chance reinstalling it and ripping g the bolts out down the rd or cracking it. My tranny has lots of suncoast stuff. I did research on bands and decided not to run kevlar bands. I also had a known builder kn mu area put it together at the time I was scared. My valve body just has a tfod diesel transgo kit in it. Has shown no signs of slipping or shuddering. Would be cool to someday try a valve body done by dynamic. I also saw a triple disc on his website that's rumored to play nice with stock shafts. Though I feel mileage may vary on that comment I've seen triples run on stock shafts rightly up until they snap a the shaft. I'm now still tuning my valve body been kinda on going like it always is with me and my truck. I'm learning alot more and feeling confident in my abilities. I might get a junk 47re and build as a spare or for fun later on down the rd. Good luck and have fun with it. Ohhh I think with a single disc and all good internals you can hold 500. Mi es holding 300 plus easy may e 350 I have no real clue what power my truck makes.

Alot of positive castor is making the steering gear box work harder. But like mentioned earlier theres not enough adjustment to really get that much positive. I've thought about getting rid of the castor adjuster washers and adjusting castor with adjustable lower control arms

Tell them you want positive castor. Sometimes they wont touch castor because it's a non tire wearing angle. Though they should be checking it on the rack but are just looking at computer screen seeing if alignment is in the good green range. On our trucks pretty much all they set is toe and center steering wheel. I tape measure aligned my toe have a slight toe in only because I want it towed so when suspension cycles it cycle to zero toe. Ounce I upgrade steering I'll set toe at zero. I can do this because toe will no longer change as suspension cycles because each tire will be tied to gether with a solid bar instead of being interrupted with the drag link going through it. Set my castor by feel through trial and error. I have adjuster about maxed out and truck tracks straight and pulls back to straight on its own coming out of turns. Castor at 0deg will not track as straight or want to return to center coming out of turns. 0 is in the green range on they're alignment machines.

I did notice egt's getting slightly lower with 5" Not sure it would have been enough to justify if I didnt fab it for as inexpensive as I did only mods I've done that made a noticable improvement and was 100% worth the time and effort have been trans upgrades and track bar ohh injectors to but those were a needed upgrade. Maintenance wear upgrade Almost everything else motor wise has been for fun because I like tinkering.

Not as good as you. I got 17 last tank that's probly alright since I towed and drove around town on that tank. Hoping to see 18- 20 on this tank if I dont tow. I gota move equipment around boise so itl end up on the trailer behind the kenworth. If you see it no it's not broke. I just gota move it to final destination then move equipment there to. I'm not 100% sure my odometer is working correctly . Low trip meter reading when I forget to reset between tanks. I've calibrated actual tire size. Readings around 700-900 for 3 tanks.

I have auto and smarty working well together. Haven't even touched a setting in 4 days. I'll agree for someone with a auto and no know how or want to tune tranny and smarter together it may not be for them. On the other hand smarty is designed for truck with stock injectors and I'd imagine isnt as picky ti tune compared to mine with 100hp sticks. I did put this programmer on a stock truck auto offcourse. Compared to my truck the but dyno didnt read near as high and driveability wasnt hardly noticed. On my truck driveability was affected from idle to wot. On the stock truck I didnt notice and need to want to play with tranny. To me I see no point in pushing on the peddle until 2500rpm is reached 3000 I'm scratchn head thinking maybe guys run them up they're racing It has been fun playing with settings and I was able to get my auto working better than it ever has and learned alot in process. That was worth installing the s03 tune. I do have a few tweaks I want to make in the trans still. Seems I'm never done with tranny tweaking. I did run into some money lately thought about a quad or turbo but neither are high on priority list right now. Someday the hy35 will give up then I'll for sure upgrade. Maybe to the hx40 my brother pulls of his 05.

I think many of us have been married a time or two. It's always nice to go for the younger hotter model for noticeable gains in aesthetics and performance

Pics??

3" or 3.5" intake? I've almost bought a intake before They were on ebay dam good look tig welded. Just flat sexy.

Ok. I gave TV a fish of slack at wot. This got rid the early down shifting and also smoothed up all shifts. 1-2 s is still quick 2-3 still not as good but seems better than it was. I like how it's down shift to second. Coast from 30 or so and itl drop to 2nd on it's own. Get on brakes and it drops sooner. Rounding slow corners it drops to second. I used to manually drop it. Now I can just drive. I've had this truck for 12 or so years maybe 14 and it's never down shifted this well and consistent. Front band is backed off 2 turns after 72inch lbs. Rear I set by fill and backed off. I cant remember how much. Specs say 3 turns for some reason I dont think I did that much. It has a harsh 2-3 shift under very light throttle nit nit alo the time. Cruising through town 25mph it now stays in second it's more it harsh shifts when speed is border line. If you know whay I mean. What do you recomend for both bands, 2-3 orfice size for 150+ pressure? I'll get the gauge on it and see what pressure is during 2-3 and wot I'm feeling very good about how its driving. I may order a pan so Ive got a good reason to drop fluid adjust bands and then just drive it. Also curious. Do your tranny prices include a core. I kicked around your website. Really like what I saw. Specially the tripe that can get away with stock shafts.

To be honest I wasnt aware the 47re could downshift like this Even before rebuilding it rarely down shifted. Then after rebuilding I had to drop it into second at slow speeds. Also to be honest I dont know TV lever specs. I took the stop turned it until lever contacted the plunger then gave it another half turn or so. Now it downshifts with engine braking. I like it alot actually now tune si it doesnt down shift as much and early. I think a zip tie to hold lever and adjust and test drive instead of dropping pan a million times. Learn what does what before turning the screw. All springs that came in the kit are installed. I dont believe theres any abnormal wear. Yes its .106. I'll readjust TV start with a bit of slack and report. Though I know that makes slack at zero throttle And keep looking for tvleverspecs Thank you so much

If I already had a hx35 I think I'd be all over the hybrid. But the 3" turbo outlet. If I'm going to upgrade I'll get something with a 4" outlet. Hx35 definitely has better specs but cost the same as hx40 minus downpipe I'm not concerned about the smaller shaft on 40. Some seem to use that as hybrid selling point.

I definitely want to though now I do t want to for heat reasons alone. If o find a hx35 fir cheap I'll toss it on But my brother I'm trying to talk him into a turbo upgrade on his 05. Then I'd grab his hx40. I dont mind upgrading the down pipe. This is climb out of over I used to pedal off now I can maintain and accelerate I'm a good few hundred deg fooler now

If everything but 2 had fuel it would run. Crack them all and start over

.106 what size would you recommend for 2-3 leave 1-2 at .106. Psi 150+ Mores pressure didnt fix 2-3 its still sloppy. 2-3 isnt horrible but can be improved on. Sometimes i barly feel it sonetines it is firm but delayed. 1-2 is always very quick I bumped pressure already and it made 1-2 cringing harsh even tried adjusting it out with TV. That helped but I went back in and backed off pressure 2 turns. This helped alot and still gained alittle pressure. Firmer quicker across the bored. 3rd still sloppy compared to 1-2. I did not put a gauge on it it should be above 150 now. TV has no slack. I'm down shifting alittle early. Does more minimum line pressure cause early downshifting. I'm hoping more minimum pressure will cause later downshifts so I can turn TV stop in alittle. Right now itl downshift before touching the brakes and tends to downshift at times when I'd rather it didnt. I like how its pulling on the bottom and dont want to lose any pressure off idle. Maybe a couple more times off with the pan. Thanks so much for your help. I'm learning alot working on this thing. Maybe save up for shafts and triple fir some day. Then start valve body tuning al over again. Just did a test drive. With lots of fuel down low its light-moderate throttle shifting at about 2k. Pulling hard 3rd kinda sluggish still feel it. Wide open Its above 2500 tires screaming barely feel 1-2 2-3 I heard it in the tires lockup quick but not to firm. Big **** eating grin. Lower pressure on this setting it was light to mod throttle shifting at around 1500 Also noticed with cold tranny down shifts were much later so I think I can turn in TV stop to push downshifts back alittle with more pressure.. Gona deal with the 2-3 shift for now. Not sure that drilling the 2-3 passage in the plate will quicken it? It's only bad at certain throttle positions. sometimes it's very nice. Dont notice it lugging around like I normally drive. Though crystal even noticed it. I said I know I dont like that shift. Grrrrr

Liferunner Triple all the bearing upgrades and all that hoopla? What converter are you running now?

I towed horses up a few grades today Lots of power. I'm on sw6 tm2 d5. Time2 so I can toggle all sw#,s and not worry to much about fuel and timing together Egt stayed below 1200 at all times. One grade I pull on highway in middle from a stop start jamming gears and accelerate up the hole hill. Didnt try to grab overdrive. Topped out at about 2200 and ran to top that's 60 65ish mph . Before I could peg 1500egt just thinking about it. I'm very happy with how it pulled and ran cool.

I'd soft line it of you get new lines https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123647780790

Yellowstone just outside Jackson Wyoming