Evan

My 47re went to to 280. I to did the tractor transmission fluid but I'm cheap I'll kit harvest king at the farm and ranch stores. My new rebuilt 47 has a mix bunch of at4 and tractor transmission fluid in it. Yes mine to shifts about 3000 wind open. Marcus Factory the 47re makes about 90-100psi at wide open throttle. To do it right you should get psi reading at wot off the accumulator port on the passenger side of tranny. If tranny is in 90-100 range I would install a shift kit. I have the transgo tfod in mine. There a very good directions and pictures that explain what to do for how much power and what's upgraded on tranny.. I wouldn't go more than 120psi nit because the trann cant take it but because the computer doesnt like to see over 100psi. If it acts up you have to install a resistor to keep computer from seeing full pressure. My tranny idles with more pressure than yours makes at wot. I'm 165ish at wot. The 47re kinda intrigues me. Heres mu tranny on tear down I didnt build it it's the only thing I've payed yo have done. However later I did go into the valve body and adjust 1-2 2-3 and lock up port sizes. I have 1-2 and lock up just how I want but need to go in and increase 2-3 just alittle more to make it quicker

I rarely run hardly any throttle I'm still on SW5 tm4 t4 d3 I cant tell any difference in egt. I think with timing it is spoiling quicker under 10psi on freeway I saw some prett steady 5psi stretches but due th o wi d and rolling hills and some surging it would still almost hit 10psi. Yes smokes before turbo lights. Leaving a stop light under light throttle it's a heavy haze then cleans up into light haze. I might email mads and see if theyl send they're fuel curve charts for sw settings. They gota give up more then they have. I'm alittle Leary but I do want to try towing on this on sw5 with 4 timming.. It drags shifts out under lower tm because the trans is shifting with more TV pressure. Changing settings is almost more or less like tightening and loosening the cable. Theres si much to notice and feel tunning a auto truck compared to a manual. And yes its hard to figure what to notice and feel. Very challenging. Thanks again Glad said you had a dead spot with high duration was starting to think it was just me.

Thank you. For some reason I decided to do my track bar over night and then go on a 670 mile rd trip the next day. I got to Grant's Pass Oregon and crashed for a few hours. Truck made the trip just fine, while I was beat I did do the poly bushing om the bar truck feels new now. Lol newer. Glad I got rid of the floppy factory style end links I think these do they're job better. All poly sure is nice. Literally no sway with steering, ride feels the same The bar bushings were 17 at autozone

On tm4 t4 d3 Feels like its making more power also more smoke. Feels like sw6 all default settings. Do you think tm4 t4 is safe towing. Shifts are crisp but earlier than on SW default tm wich I think is 3 Smoke doesnt matter it's not horrible unless I get on it good. Seems to smoke in all setting I have not ran the tm lower than3 i dont think.Think I'm going back to tm3 t4 and will try d3 there. Still thinking sw# does not matter especially after you had me run tm4 . Pretty damn sure sw6 is the only one running default tm 4 wich makes its fuel curve different. And not paired with 7 wich is tm5 On d3 I didnt notice the dead spot that seemed to be in the middle of the power band. I haven't ran the freeway to know if it surges but I'm pretty sure it does

Yes cut factory mount off frame and built my own I'm running 5/8" bolts instead of factory 9/16" in hind site it would have been much easier staying with 9/16 due to have to drill out axle mount to 5/8" and build a nut plate like the factory uses. 3rd gen bar is almost bolt on.

track bar made by Miller Fab. Heres one I did for a 3rd gen

You run 7x10 ? I'm assume 7x09 bu youd sig

I'll try. 20-50k on injectors

There's an adjustment to turn line pressure up. More pressure wont compromise anything. Get inch ln wrench to set hands, so lots of research. Could service it, bump pressure up alittle and be good to go for a long time

Is the block cracked? When mine quits itl tear me to peices , but ohhh man what fun itl be working her over

That's cool

I did a a ppe pan and love it I see alot of guys saying cooler temps with the switch locked. I can lock 3rd or 4th with over drive button saw no difference with lock switch. I'd have to tell people who drive it. Never touch that switch it wont stop if you do. Whatever you do dont touch it. Dont bump it dont look at it wrong. It is alittle benefit sometimes to lock sooner. Locked is locked with added switch or not. Just what I've found.

Keep coming across 1500 cabs on diesels around here. To me they're trucks to stay away from. Not because there had but because there all peice together and never finished

Can you hear the pump when you turn the key on but dont start the truck. Itl run for a few seconds then shut off. On closer look those might not be half inch lines Those are 1/2" line. I have the same pump but not 4g. There should be a plus or minus showing wich way to turn Allen bolt to raise or lower pressure. I'll go look at mine and tell you. I dont see the plus or minus. I think these pumps are set to be about 16psi . I turned mine up to 20. Mines leaking yours looks pretty clean and new. I'll have to look into the 4g pumps. It might be getting close to time to freshen mine up. No one said I could post pictures. If I subscribed To me 33x12.5s look pretty good.

I cut factory away bar mounts off and raised them a few inches with the plates. Thought I was going to do over the knuckle steering but theres no way reasonable to get over the knuckle steering drag link and track bar parallel with truck that's only lifted 2"s I'd have to raise track bar mount on the axle in and make it shorter mounting in inboard more of the coul spring. I didnt want to shorten track bar decided that it would counter the benefit of raising steering. I was shooting for factory angles with a 2" lift but want the track bar long under the spring mount like it is. Not sure what steering I'll run but I do know its staying under the knuckle. Plates are now just for sway bar to mount to. Lol all that to say just that

High idle stays when truck is returned to stock?

I have a lock switch and have found little to no use for it. I stole the wire off it for my trans temp gauge. If you tow heavy alot or on slow mtn roads locking in second gear good to do to help keep the tranny cooler. If you want a exhaust brake. Locking 3rd is handy . Without modding the valve body the switch is only capable to lock 3rd and 4th Damn at 100k I think I do fuel gauge, fuel system then all tranny upgrades i can do without dropping tranny. Get transmission pressure to about 120 get some quick shifts going and good solid downshifts to second. And probly take that tranny to 300k. 47re is under rated and 5 and 6 speed is over rated. Its quite the feeling towing a trailer bumping through the gears watching the boost gauge barely quiver in between shifts at 30psi Lately I'd rather drive a 13speed than a crummy shifting 5 or 6 speed with a grabby as clutch.

Driving characteristics personality and attitude seem to have more to do with clutch life and slipping than tire size

Are there any new injector bodies. I think what they call knew are all remanded Bosch bodies All mechanical injectors, turbo, boost fooler. Smarty only for half power to pass emmisions Clutch when needed

From what I've read high idle only functions when it's like -50 out. No one will be able to turn it on anyways theyd have to put they're truck to stock and put a tune on yours

I'm not sure what to think. I cruise just under the turbo. Wind hills any kinds drag lights it then almost dumps it ounce drags gone. Combination of fuel and factory computer. On sw5 youd have to turn it up to 6 to be able to back it off to 4. My truck smoke with injectors on there own no programming. Maybe I should try timing on 4 with no fueling. I have read your article not sure I see the changes with settings that you do. Got me thinking again. Still on sw5 tm/default tm4 d5 Think 6 has slightly more get up and go off idle with no timing My brain hurts. Oh I noticed that at 75mph I was at higher psi than 6with no timming. Cruise surges but livable om both settings Cruise surged with just I injectors no programming just less surge.

Ok ran sw5 tm4 d5. Truck runs good night have alittle more overal power than sw6 no timming added I think it sounds alitt different towing at about half throttle. It didnt blow the head gasket towing 11k at 30psi om the freeway doing 80. Temp seemed the same I'll leave it here for awhile then drop back duration to 4. I like changing one setting at a time. Also noticed some haze at idle when truck was just running with sun setting just right. Maybe a valve seal, could it be fuel at idle cant really tell what color the haze is it's so faint.

Walking through autozone I spotted these it sh!t I can drill a hole and bolt em on I say yo myself Did it last night just yanked 11k 60 miles and ohh my so much more precise and stable cornering steering even straight line driving. Only problem is I think I blew my head gasket. Pepsi has me set on timing 4 pulled a few grades making 30psi. ****. Lol I'm kidding, SW5 t4 d5 feels good Dont know why I didnt think of this sooner. Also sorry that these wont bolt on anyone else's truck. They are a few inches to short but are working great. Truck feels new well newer. Wonders around so much less. Autozone had different lengths. I measured and got the shortest set bolted them on turns out I needed the next set longer to get bar at factory angle. I kinda want to get longer ones because these are dangerously close to snagging under my track bar mount. I might just box the bracket down farther since that's free. Dont want to buy another set of links at 21bucks a set of if dont have to. Can get the matching poly bar bushings instead. My truck does need sway bars it was okay without the front before I put the welder on it. The welder and torch tank and tools I carry about 2000lbs truck was scarey woth no bar. I had to refabricat the mounts I cut off grrrr. I had planned to do over the knuckle steering but found I'd be unable to match the track bar to that raised steering at close to factory lift height. If I lifted truck 6"s I could Well see how they hold up. Putting anywhere from 300-500 miles a week on the truck. Just thought I'd share these had me grinning at how much better it feels empty and towing

I say get your wheels and tires. I like my truck with taller tires. I've done no mods to be able to run 33-35" tires. I did do a 2" level spacer that bolts in on the front. My trucks a 3500 and factory they sit with about a 5" nose down rake. When I towed 20k that was perfect I try to not put more than 16k behind the truck now. I really really like the 3rd gen wheels that I have. I bought one set for 100 bucks and traded into this set. They had the cooper 285x70x17 already mounted. I shined them up and holy moly I like them. 285x70x17s are about 33"x11" tire. My other tires are 285x75x17 about a 35"x11" tire. I have them in the shed. I'll run these coopers bald then switch back. I regularly tow 11000 lbs. have done a few mods fuel system, gauges, track bar, injectors. I'd say get your tires and wheels out of the way and get a fuel gauge on it and go from there. I've had my truck for about 15 years only major repairs have been injection pump and tranny. Mines 47re that lasted to 280,000 miles. It's now been rebuilt. Injection pump was replaced right at 15years ago. Dodge did a retrofit in tank lift pump research here soon had me replacing it with a fuel system because it only had 4psi at idle. I now cruise down the free way at 75mph wwth 18psi drops to about 15 to 14 pulling a grade. Also no excessive egts temps due to tires empty I cruise at 700-800 towing flat ground about 900-1100 pulling grades I'll bounce around 1200 sometimes 1300 depending on grade and what I'm towing. I'm running factory 3.55 gears. Boost fooler and turn buckling waste get helped a ton with egts while towing Definitely fun reliable trucks. Heres the 3rd gen wheels. They sit out further on my truck because I have a dually rear axle that's wider than single axles. I matched the front axle to it with 1.5" spacers. Yes I have spacers on for looks I can hear the guys gears turning now. Lol they dont like spacers many dont nit i have had no issues with them they're on for looks is all. But my tires did rub control arms with out them yours wont because youl have 4.5-3" back spaces wheels. Get 4.5" If you get wheels wider than 8 you might though. 20x8 wheels with some good street tires would be very cool. 20"x10" or 12" wheels do not look good. They stick out to far and are wider than the tire look horrible actually. I like wheels to not be wider than the tread face. The tires in pic have about a 9.5" wide tread face. So slightly wider than the 8" wheel. I wouldnt want a tire with a tread face narrower then 8" on a 8" wheel. Tire sidewall is still wider than 8" I'll stop rambling

Just where I have. Tm is whatever default is for 5 I think its 3 not sure though. I may change duration to. Just where I have it no real reason