Evan

I thought silver star halogen bulbs were an upgrade. Gtr seems to have been in the led game for awhile while mormito is old school hid Looks like theres a few plug n play drastic light upgrades for less than 250.

Lol nothing wrong with that. Not sure why bulbs wouldn't fit unless aftermarket takes different than 9006/4 bulbs. The response rubbed me wrong and had nothing to do with question I asked. Guess I shouldn't judge so quickly and harsh. Did you guys see these. https://www.gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-ultra-2-led-bulbs-9006 Theres more options out than I realized. Hid and halogens mist like will soon go away ounce led becomes legal and technology catches up.

I think reply came from Indonesia or China. That was my one and only purchase. Not even worth a response to they're reply

Loren Thanks for the reply. Got a response back from retrofit resource. Prett sure whoever responded. Said if I get after market housings bulbs may not fit. Nothing in reply about what style works best with the 2stroke 3.0 Shot off a message to morimoto maybe that will get some info.

Yay or nay on these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Headlight-Set-For-1994-2002-Dodge-Ram-2500-1999-2001-1998-1997-1995-2000-S538XF-/153300433971?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

I thought I noticed a different high idle the other day seemed pretty warm was surprised it came on at all.. Factory 3 and 6 high idle?

I dunno. One has hi lows one doesn't Lows then high Then some random trying to capture what I actually see through the camera. Tried tesearch best lense with no luck yet

Whatever lens came on 2002 trucks. 2stroke 3.0 Im researching what lens for these bulbs. No idea really

Ok there in. I like though my paxxenger housing is broken cant adjust up. Beam pattern similar to the Silverstone appears to be noticably more light. No stray light hitting tops if trees like my jeep led

So ive now blown my spare bulb. Heres a photo of 2stroke 3.0 from a tundra forumn. I am thinkkng ill order bulbs but not lenses ill clean my lenses again as I research what might be a quality replacement I've spent the money on the 2stroke 3.0 175bucks. Now that I've spent the money I've done alot of research. Seems hid vs led is a confusing subject alot jumpers into one wagon or the other. Lots of good information but im not sure ive read what is actually better Been running around with my high beams. Looking forward to having better than stock light.

So you did ball joints on 2 trucks with big tires

To be honest I did scrounge job sites and 12" was the biggest i could find. Holds air just fine. Only took about 10minutes to air up to 50

Just change one injector at a time.

Lol. I got the 16" from a pipe supply house. It was damaged said do not use

Injectors cost more but I wouldn't say 2006 is any real bump into modern. Computers are alittle more advanced still old school

Ok gotcha. Why do we keep messing with these damn old dinosaurs

The chip is forward is that what you mean by same as halogen bulb? Thank you for tge reply. Im very leary to by housings now after seeing how cheap and flimsy the chevy aftermarket stuff we installed was

Im not talking light performance. Are these cheap 100dollar lenses something trash can worthy out of the box like the ones I just helped install.

What is overall lens quality. Who makes en?

Anyone running these yet I helped put a set of led bulbs and housings on a suburban yesterday. Company called top gear or something. All parts very low quality cost was 274 Are the lenses low quality from rock auto

Yes. 4.10s is good for 35 maybe plus alittle. Fords kingpin dana60 are the small axle to have. Steering options up grade 35sp or leave factory and beat on it. The 60s in our dodges is also adequate to 37"s. Most pavement pounders running big tires up 44s will never break a 60. Trail rigs running some horses lockers low gears can break 60. Thats where 14bolt/dana80 rears morph into the front. Were in the rock bouncer era. Here's how the pvc insert works. Basically just locks bead to both sides of the wheel. Took me about an hour to make this 1 insert And then figure out how to get it in the tire. Clerance for valve core. Not shown is the hole so air can get through insert. Thats it and repeat 4more times. I've had a couple chevy pickups also on bigger tires. I found them very good with no lift and 265ish tires. Got good life out of stuff. Ounce lifted with 33-35s they did eat idler and pitman arms fast. The straight axle dodges even 1/2ton are much better suited to handle a lift and 33-35" tires Jeep had 307 factory i went to 3.55 slight difference but barely enough to make the swap worth while Definitely not worth spending money to go that slight of a change. Thats virtually nothing. If running big tires and a guy/gal feels they want to invest in gears id recomend change a hole number. Stock 3.55-4.56. I feel most won't have seen much of a difference going to 4.10 to feel happy with theyre decision. However if the tires aren't super big the 4.10s would be better. But then most won't feel the need or want to regear. Thats a ton of rigs out there. 3.55s work well and are most economical as this the ratio thats very common on alot of vehicles. Mike is correct in his thinking. But this comes from an era where tv stations turned off at night and posted speed limits where lower. **** so am i.

Probly not worth the expense to do gears or buy tires when you can just grab the stick or push the throttle further down

Tractor fluid. Best of atf and hydraulic fluid in one bottle to suit all our needs. Might keep us from chasing the red heads around.

Here it is on 35x12.5x17s this is a couple years ago. Have a few hundred mikes on the 2007 steering and maybe 50 on my truck. Funny thing is my truck drives tighter and more precise than the 2007. Both identical steering. 2007 has a prominent dead spot at the center. When I removed factory steering I found a wobbled stopper tie rod boot on the passenger knuckle. I didnt put it back. I found it od that the factory used a wobble stopper. It is a cab n chassis truck but that shouldn't matter? Truck does kinda drive better but that damn floating dead spot at center is driving me crazy. I run a wobble stopper on my jeep and it drives 10 times better than the 07. The eventual plan is for these to end up on the jeep. These wheels lock both beads so I can air down to a couple lbs and not worry about knocking a bead off. Have 5 of these wheels. To recenter the center is cut from the outside half of the wheel the new center is welded back in on the inside half. One cool thing about this is back spacing goes from factory h1 7" to a more normal 4-3.5. Dodge wheels are about 6.5". Normal aftermarket i should say. The tire can also be changed with the tire still bolted to the vehicle. Im not young but I feel young. Those wanting to run these bigger tires can intentionally get into these for 600-900 for a tire and wheel combo. Then a second set of tires run about the same. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124487840100 Theres only 3 maybe 4 options for cheap 37s like this. For me 16.5 opens up the jeep to a set of offroas only with ag or tractor tires. The 37s may be short lived on the truck but will be fun for a few. I havent decided 100% sure on back spacing. Now that I have this center cut out I can mount the tire and figure what back spacing I want on the jeep. Likely 3.5" will work fine.

Bought this today