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Evan

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Everything posted by Evan

  1. Fabbed some long arms and ohh man ride is amazing. Literally night and day better. I did 3link arms are 31" long instead of the 15" from the factory. The jeep guys call this a midterm but its a long mid arms. These arms are about 8" longer than jeeps coming off the showroom floor today.
  2. I think it ws about 10years ago you advised me to clean
  3. I think it would be waist of time money to upgrade turbo to anything less than a 62 62 68 12 paired with 150 injectors. Muffled by the long fte twister muffler. Your choice of 4 or 5" The semi mufflers are more likely to hve rust problems then the twister mufflers because the packing traps moisture Your truck will then make you grin ?
  4. I'd shoot for 400ish horse. I run 3.55gears 47re I feel the 4.10 trucks are wrapping higher rpms than I like. Im getting great mpg and run 80mph with 18k in tow Maybe its cause I've been doing it with the same truck for 15 years. When in others trucks I'm always looking for another gear as 4.10s have em spinning 2500rpm My trucks spent a fair amount of time running 7k heavier though latly a 10-12k machine is the heaviest I tow. I lock over drive out if driving in town or speed limit is 65 or lower. If I didn't run the freeway alot and lived in a mtn town where speed limits are 40-65 then maybe id lie 4.10s
  5. Been a few years since I've done valves I have cleaned iat ounce I would say my truck idles smoother like less popping compared to otheres if that makes since. It used to loap alitt when injectors where new and would sometime die when going from reverse to neautral. It no longer does either
  6. Hmmm My truck has always sounded different than othere cummins I've been around. Otheres seem to idle more healthy sounding I dunno. Maybe mass airflow sensor or something
  7. I've been running 33-34" tire for 10is years . I always lock it out of overdrive till getting on the highway. 62 65 14 turbo works well for me with 3.55 gears 32.5" tire and 7x009 injectors temps cool power great, bottom response amazing though if I stand on it from stop or low rpm 1500 itl smoke like all the kids want . Fuel mileage good to.
  8. I ran bearings till they melted the abs sensors. My bearings seemed to get tighter at the melt down stage. Make sure rotor mud collectors arent bent rubbing rotor I have 1bad balljoint replaced all 4 a year ago I'd still eliminate driveline
  9. More tlc. Oil pan gasket , rear main seal , steering column, clutch, transmission front axle rear axles injectors 2hp. All under way on the back patio . It drives me crazy that I cant figure out why photos work and sometimes dont work. Makes this forumn worthless
  10. My first thought ws ujoints on the front drive line. I'd pull it off see if the problem goes away
  11. https://lugnut4x4.com/product/94-00-dodge-dana-80-disc-brake-conversion-kit-8-lug/
  12. Was it the factory starter. If so I'd give you 30bucks for it.
  13. It's got friction modifiers because it's very slippery synthetic.
  14. I'd probably not do al that. Most likely copy your tune or someone that my injector turbo set up. That's partly why I havent done it yet is because I dont want to **** with it
  15. Tractor/hydraulic fluid cures all I run Chevron thf1000. Have been for a long time I recently stumbled on ati superF transmission fluid Make sure trans has 100psi ish at wot and at least 50is at idle. You check pressure on the accumulator test 1/8" not fitting to any pressure gauge 50-200psi range. Verify tv lever is working on driverside of tranny.
  16. Freaking amazing How many trannies you been through?
  17. 5" rake is what I measured on my 1ton. I've still got some rake but less than I thought. Raising the front kind lowers the rear. So glad I didnt go 3" Did you get your stuff installed. I think your going toove the shocks. They're a game changer
  18. No I didn't build it. I'm not that confident yet.
  19. Its always good seeing it layed out on the bench and going over it with the builder. This is mine around 100k ago. It's a basic build single billett etc. Its towed hard and seen lots of freeway. I'd spend alittle more money and do a triple and dynamic valve body if I had it to do over. Hoping to get another 100k before doing it again this time with triple
  20. Are you running wire tapped. I hit 1100 quick then that's about the roof. I can run grades with my foot on the floor t about 2000 rpm feels and sound like it hold the trajectory with no asphalt needed. If your hot and the quads running my thiughtvwould be to shut it off . Tune from factory base line then bring in just quad timming then maybe alittle fuel if it stays cool
  21. I think the good steering started in 2008.5 Should be bolt on from 2002 up no drilling. Toss steering stabalizer in trash. When more castor is needed just coax it with force. I have 2" lift and control arms for 3" lift also fabbed a adjustable track bar doing away with the tierod frame side and running heims and both ends. I do not like the castor washers they get in the way. Adjust lowers or uppers or both would be preferred I'm running stryker arms off ebay. The set of 4 was less than 200 for longer arms . In hindsight I wish I'd orderd arms for 6" lift instead of 3". You can find fabbed adjustable arks for 200-250 for just the lower pair. But youl have to look in the offroad world. And be ready with measurements to have them fabbed. Good luck
  22. With the rear axle chained it was easy. Immediate improvement. I'm going to build arms now that I've done a few track bars and jeep arms. First I can chuck the castor shims to get alittle more.