Ben

I agree Leety. The stock studs are no go for resting the filter on. The original air box grommets were just a touch bigger than the metal on the outside of the filter. On my old truck when I ran an Amsoil filter for a bit I made a filter frame out of aluminum stock like @dripleydid.

Thanks!

Well this wood tick needs those black dirt temps to get up a bit so I can plant the $200 worth of perennial bare roots that are currently commandeering my fridge vegetable bin and most likely will until almost end of May.

Sticks showed up today. So I'll chime in tomorrow about how I feel with injectors only, boost fooler, and elbow. It's a 3hr ride home. DAP sent an Adrenaline V2 brochure along with the order. I did not need that. I swear Jacob put 2 and 2 together. ETA - Doesn't the ETH motor have additional timing already vs the ETC? Wonder if this will help. Thinking out loud.

Hmm. That seems low to me. Has that always been like that? You would be the one to notice something squirrelly. If that's how it always has been then cool. Is the temp sender original? Like I mentioned before, my old truck ate those. Just as much as my old Powerstroke ate glow plug relays.

Looks great Leety!!!!! I like that idea! The fire resistant can plus aluminum heat shield on it and I would say you're good to go. My sled has aluminum heat tape on the inside of the belly pan by the exhuast and that keeps it from melting. I installed my BHAF wednesday. I just put it in and didn't worry about a heat shield yet. A little note. The mounting fasteners off the stock air box make great mounting points for the filter. Ripped the box out (literally). Sawzalled the pucks off the bottom of the airbox. Put those and the inside part over the fender screws. Ta da.

There's a muffler.

My fault. I missed the dealing with the drone part. I thought the fence posts were being used as heat shields. That actually is a good idea. I guess I have been lucky with drone on my trucks. I just got the 4" Diamond Eye stainless on 2 weeks ago on the new one and all is well.

That's been a given for over the last 25 years Clark.

What someone is willing to pay. And how bad they want it.

Thanks Mike. Thats what I needed to know.

Thanks! Both of those are available so I will throw them on for now. I was worried about the truck going into an overboost situation and hamstringing me. Wasn't sure if just injectors would do this or not. I could drive a smarty/150's, dragon fire/smarty/6x13's, smoke free so I am not worried. Per the CTS monitor ( which I had originally bought for my Eco Diesel) i am hitting 22lbs now. It is rare but it does it. Real gauges go in along with the injectors. So I will really know then.

IMO....you guys are way over anylizing/building a better mouse trap type stuff. Big truck places already have this made. Thats 4” exhaust. It is specifically called exhaust heat shield. That being said I have never seen any ill effects tranny temp wise from the exhaust being right there. Even with 5”. Side note. @KATOOM I was rooting through some DTR and realized you and I along with some others have been in this goat show for a while. Those were fun days.

I am hopefully putting in DAP 7x.0085 Sacs this week. Truck is stock performance wise. No electronics yet. Will I need anything else along with this? ie boost fooler, elbow? I have never gone the injector first route before but this vehicle has given me a decent $$ hit so I am holding off on electronics. I know the HO pump responds better to injectors than electronics so I figure I should at least get a nice little bump. Worst case Ontario I have new injectors.

So I feel this is a fitting place for what happened to me a little while ago. I was coming home from my girlfriends house. The speed limit on this road is 60 and I had the cruise set to 63. I was coming up on old suburban who was poking along and I just passed him. Came into the next town and I pulled into the Cenex for a splash of fuel. I see the Suburban get on the brakes and makes a hard turn into the lot. He bee lines right for me. I was thinking here we go for what ever reason. He comes up, rolls down his window, and says "Where did you get that clean truck? You passed me and I went holy cow!! You rarely see nice 2nd Gen Cummins any more." I laughed, told him the story and said it looks good from 5 feet. We talked and he has a 95 and 98 3/4 tons. Both low miles, extended cabs, and never seen MN winters. He bought the 98 a little bit ago from a lady in ND for 12 grand. I told him awesome score and did he realize what he had. He replied "One of the most sought after Cummins there is?" Anyways it was fun. He also said the 2nd gen is his favorite looking truck. So we aren't the only ones.

Nice!!!!! How many miles on your truck? How hard were the sway bar bushings? That is not a bad idea. I am currently on a very similar path with mine. Gauges and injectors next week. As far as a 2nd gen fitting in a modern truck world. Sure, I can see that mechanically and performance wise. But looks wise, I think they stick out. To me the lines of a 2nd gen are one of the most pleasing out of all pickups and there are getting to be fewer decent ones. I got a lot of stares last weekend when I took the truck to town. 2 guys in a jacked Duramax were eyeballing the truck and I said to myself "There are a lot of your trucks out there but there is only one like this." Keep us posted on your progress! Does this happen when getting on it from a stop or is this when getting on the goods in a roll on? The only time I had axle wrap in my old truck was sometimes when letting out the clutch other than that no issues. But I never got on it from a stop or low speeds either. It was more noticeable after new clutch was put in. How are your shocks? I have found that gas shocks are not helpful to vehicles rear ends planting and hooking up. At all. When I first got the little truck the rear end would not hook at all even with traction bars. Hind end would break loose at 70 and start skating when you got on it. The old owner said the truck always did this even with new shocks. Well the shocks were gas shocks, nothing special. Neighbor and I rooted through the spare parts and found 2 Afco oil valved shocks for dirt track cars. Resistance going in and resistance going out. Absolutely incredible what those did. The truck would now squat and the nose would raise up when getting on it. It hooked yesterday. Just something to think about. As far as your tranny temp. I had a temp gauge on the old truck since very early on. It ate the temp sensors. If it was reading low (100 or so) I knew I needed a new one. Put a new one in and fixed. I never saw that low of tranny temps even in sub zero weather.

Rainey River is open. They actually have 2 launches going and not having to dump the boat in off the ice. Keep your fingers crossed I guess.

We got bubkas out of it. Just right past the edge. I was watching radar yesterday and felt bad for Duluth. That counter clockwise swirl sucking moisture off superior. Ugg neighbors were in the cities for super cross. Said that was an adventure Going to be punching holes for fishing opener. 50” ice on Bemidji and 6+ feet lake of the woods. This is getting old. I wonder what that wave sets are like on superior. That looks juicy.

Is that supposed to come apart like that? A 2 piece?

Got the fleet moved up to their proper parking spots. Although jeep gets shoe horned around in the shop once I drop the top. Subaru daily driver, the toy, new truck. I took the truck to the gym this morning then the fleet store. Old fart got a lot of stares there. Lol

Here is the TSB for it. There is an allen bolt with a jam nut on top of the steering box. TSB 19-10-97 The truck has always been in the air when this is done so I don't know how easy it would be with it on the ground. It's definitely a lot easier to do on manuals that autos because of no transmission coolers and plumbing being right there. Small adjustments and take your time.

One point I haven't seen mentioned yet regarding line size is that bigger diameter hose increases the volume of fuel into the vp. More volume equals more fuel to keep the injection pump cool. On my old truck I had the block mounted stock lift pump. Went to stand alone 95gph fass with 3/8 lines to stock filter then 1/2" vulcan to vp. Never messed with fuel tank. That pump got tired and once I did the wiretap, that was too much for it. Put a stand alone 150 fass adjustable in with 1/2" lines all the way up. Dialed the pump in to 20lbs and fuel pressure did not budge. Period. Little truck had a 165 Airdog with 1/2" lines all the way and no stock filter canister. Stayed at 20 lbs and would maybe drop to 18-19 on Mach3 bomb runs. No idea what tank mods were done. New truck had in tank lift pump. New Fass Titanium 165 was just put in. Draw straw in tank, 1/2" lines to stock filter, 1/2 vulcan to vp44. When test gauge was hooked up 20lbs rock solid. Gauges are next on my list so we will see how it does.

My old truck had a Luke's Link and poly bushing on it for 70k miles. Zero issues with 285 tires. At 100k put adjustable trac bar on to offset a leveling kit. The LL trac bar was still like new. Steering sector was tightened up maybe 3 times in the time I owned it. Put a Luke's link and poly bushing on new truck last Saturday. Good to go. The steering sector was tightened up Wednesday. That made an improvement. I have a steering brace on the way. I received one for a 3rd gen last week so I'm waiting for correct one.

My little truck had a grid heater delete and would do this when cold. Summer/warmer weather there was no issue. I plugged it in. Problem solved. I would take off when coolant temp read 100 degrees or better. It was still a little smokey until fully warmed up but waaaaaay better and would start.

Sorry I’m too late to this to contribute but I’d thought I’d share. I had my fass titanium put in yesyerday. The draw straw went up on the hump towards front of the tank. Coincidentally there is an already pre formed cut out spot. To get the correct draw straw depth the tank was supported on 2 barrels to simulate actually being in the truck in case there was sag in the tank. Draw straw is 2 quarters thickness off of bottom of tank per instructions. Scallops were then made in the bottom of straw Incase tank was pushed up against straw it would still get fuel. There was zero modification done to basket. Ready to go back in after brake line. Side note to consider. The tank hides a lot a lot on the frame rail. The brake line was in baaaad shape. I mean dripping bad where it snaps in above stock fuel lines. Thankfully shop was able to make one up. Although that added a few hours on. I got lucky. Eta. Mine did not come with screen pre filter. Fass has some neat options regarding heating the fuel at the pump in cold temps. One is running coolant to it. Downside coolant has to be warm. Second is a heater element that inserts to the coolant coolant port I think that’s thermostatically controlled. As as soon as truck fires it’s on.