ISX

Here you go Russ, went out and took a pic.

I'll add it to my rewiring list then. I know those wires are questionable from what I can see by the hitch.

I have a drawtite activator II (part number 5500) and it can be set from 0-10 with the LED thing and it works by ramping up the brakes to that level. So when I hit the brake pedal, it ramps up to 8 if it is set there. Well lately it ramps up and eventually overloads ("ol" on the screen) while it is still ramping and then it just starts at 0 again. You can feel the trailer start to drag as it ramps then it lets off, does this over and over always overloading. Just recently started doing that crap. If I turn the level down to 5 or so, it doesn't overload.

It is basically a fancy banjo bolt with a spring and ball in it. The ball is seated until enough pressure is built then it pops open and the excess fuel/pressure goes back to the fuel tank. That is how the pressure in the fuel system is regulated, by opening when there is too much pressure and closing when there is not enough. When they go bad, it is normally due to the spring getting weak, causing premature pop off at low pressures, so you end up having abnormally low fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gauge would tell you what is really going on.

Nope, a resistor "swings both ways" As long as it has one wire going to it and another wire going out, it will work.

It's not that hard. I forgot to post this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFoyOjG7EJ0

There is only one way to leave that cross member on. Unbolt the trans from the engine, support the front of the trans (since the engine normally supports it) then get tension on the engine with the cherry picker and jack the engine up, hopefully you have the engine mount bolt nuts taken off so the engine should come up slightly. Just go up enough to show that all the engine's weight is on the cherry picker, not the mounts. Now you can do one of 2 things and it's up to you which you do first. The engine mount, mount, is actually bolted to the engine with 3 bolts (per mount, so 2 sides, 6 bolts). Unbolt the mount so that you don't have to fight the regular mount which you have to jack the engine way up to get it out of that mount, or unbolt the mount and your good to go. Now it is easier to move the engine around for the next interchangeable step, taking the oil pan off. It's a PITA to get off but with it on the cherry picker it should be a little easier. Jack the engine up a little (and i know trans will still be hooked up so the engine will pivot upwards) and take the oil pan off. It will become apparent that the pickup tube makes it impossible to get the pan off. Reach in and take all the bolts for the pickup tube out and wiggle the tube out of the pan and gently throw it across the garage floor, as you will be mad. Now you can wiggle the oil pan out with some cherry picker magic. Now the engine should be still connected to the trans but free floating above the chassis since you unbolted the engine mounts, so it will now slide forward with ease, right out of the trans. Simple as that

I still got $2.95/gal diesel in my truck's tank Gas is higher than that now here. I think diesel is $3.47 or something now. I wonder what would happen if prices hit $10/gal (like they predicted a couple years ago for the future year (which is in the past now(obviously didn't happen))). Would people stop driving? Would they actually pull their bike out of attic? I can actually get to work on this 300 mile trail that runs right behind my house that used to be a railroad, now called the katy trail, if it came to it I would have no problem reverting to it. Be nice if there was a sidewalk going down every highway so you could ride. I would have to do some street riding once I got to town.

This has some info on it. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm Seems a cummins place has them the cheapest ($6 compared to the dealers $42).

Yeah it has a vacuum pump, all 12v's do. The power brakes work off the power steering pump though.

I took my engine out without the freon leaving. The condenser bends around over the passenger headlight by pretty well spinning it up and over itself and you can bungee cord it to the hood which is necessary because the lines don't exactly bend that much. The lines will pivot around at the circle couplings though. The a/c compressor can be worked over to other places as well. All without taking any a/c lines apart.

I think a camper shell would work good enough. This guy needed a wing because the trailer was literally as big as those semi trailers. You just don't want the air having to be broke twice, so having the topper keeps the air from going back down and slamming into the entire trailer front.

I would put a camper shell on the truck if you don't have one. There is a guy I rode dirt bikes with that has a dmax which he pulls this huge trailer that might as well be a semi truck trailer and he didn't get any mileage at all, he put a camper shell on it that had a wing thing on the back to shoot the wind over the trailer and he said it doubled the mpg. Needless to say he has a kodiak now

Going to try and get it done this weekend. Already off to a bad start. I have been wondering what to do with the 3 connections on the drivers side firewall and decided to get rid of them entirely as some wires in each one just go straight to the fuse box wires and are spliced into it down there, so I am cutting them off and running everything straight up to where they need to go. The problem came when I started tracing out wires and couldn't find a bunch of them on the PCM side. They would be on the fuse box side but not come out on the other side of the connector. Upon closer inspection, dodge actually wires up crap I don't have like a trans relay, but they stop wiring at that connector, the relay is there, the wiring is there but the other side of the connector doesn't even have the contacts in for it. Which means I have a lot of wires going to nothing since I don't have an automatic. I'm ripping them out, relay and all. I have already ripped a lot out, interesting how many wires go to nothing. --- Update to the previous post... Not going to get done this weekend lol. I forget how hard it is to figure out where to run everything. The wires are spliced in bad spots and other wires are just a pain to figure out where to route. I did get rid of a couple relays that I think went to nothing. Got rid of the fuel heater relay as well since my heater contacts are fried. I thought I would get rid of a bunch of wires by running the ones from the 3 big connectors into the fuse box that had been from the PCM, so basically the PCM to fuse box wires. Turns out there are only a few. Got them out of the way. Still got a lot to do. It's been over a month now that I haven't heard that thing start --- Update to the previous post... Figured I would do this for the nonbelievers lol. I will show that all you need to run a 12V is a few seconds of 12v power. I just jammed a wrench into the shutoff solenoid to hold it up. Woulda started faster if my idle wasn't so low, normally I step on the pedal a little. It also hasn't been started in a month. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjyzfZMEMRc

Probably. If you can see that much of the converter then its definitely that plate missing, just go find another trans in the junkyard and your problem will be solved

To confirm, it is this thing, called the torque converter inspection plate. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/192928-torque-converter-inspection-plate-questions-47re.html I don't think it will hurt anything (obviously, since you haven't had it in a long time), it just keeps crap out, but you should really get one just incase you end up going through mud or other things that could happen to wreak havoc. Junkyards probably have them. Here's a pic of it missing from that link.

If I recall, that is only on automatics and yes there is supposed to be a cover there that you can take off to allow you to take the torque converter bolts out.

I remember your numbers Stodg. You got a gain out of it. Leads me to believe it does help but not everyone, possibly. If we knew what it did we would have a better idea. One thing I thought about last night was that my timing was at 16 or 17* (maybe even higher) and then I went back to 13.5 (stock) and I get the same mileage, which makes me think timing isn't that detrimental, though I do wonder if it is more detrimental on something with higher injection pressures.

The whole part of this entire thing that I have been questioning is consistency. We have to get hand calculated numbers. It's hard enough knowing how a 24V operates without owning one, getting information that isn't solid just makes it even worse. I would do it myself but I obviously can't. I already have seen a lot of things that don't seem consistent to me in this thread that I have been trying to make sense of but it isn't easy to do. The only solid info I can believe right now is what whitelightning is saying. I think stodg hand calculated and saw a gain but I am not sure if he did that or not. It's inconsistent stuff like this that gets internet phenomenons started. For this thing to work, we have to get solid info to know for sure Here you go txplumbermaster. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1922-Temp-Gauge...?highlight=gauge

You're telling me you have been relying on the scan gauge all this time and have never hand calculated it?

There is a lot of commotion about how 4wd effects things and such, but I believe that to all be BS. There are guys getting 25mpg with 4wd's. Another thing is mods and injectors and yadda yadda the list of excuses goes on and on. But I get 17 pulling this so there is NO reason any unloaded truck should get less than 17 at any point in time. I can't get below 20 unloaded no matter what I do. The other thing is that I pull that trailer at 70mph down to where we ride dirt bikes which gets into a lot of long hills maybe 5-7% grade which I keep it at 70 going up all of them, but I let off on the downhill, which I believe regains what I lose going up the hill, making it average out to just driving on flat ground. I'd like to prove this getting a flat ground GPH reading, then average out the uphill and downhill readings to see if they end up being the flat ground reading. Also, 14mpg is what Caj gets pulling huge boats..

There must be something to the fooler and the edge comp that makes it work, but not sure what. Stodg got results with his smarty. Mike, did you ever hand calculate it?

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved little by little as I did each mod. I just want to be sure I'm not delusional Step 1: Get a BHAF. This will improve flow and make the filter media last longer since there is more surface area to get dirty. Step 2: Get a 4" or bigger exhaust either straight piped or with a see-through muffler. Again, this improves flow. Step 3: Get a pyrometer and boost gauge if you haven't already, otherwise you are asking for trouble. Step 4: Set your valves at 0.008" intake and 0.015" exhaust. Only do this if you know exactly how to do it, as this is a tight tolerance and is the minimum setting on exhaust so if you screw it up a lot, you might end up having a valve open the whole time. Typically valves loosen, so if you get it set perfect, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The minimum settings are what they are because valves expand as they heat up so this accounts for expansion. This should make the HX35 spool up better than an HY (after we do AFC mods). Step 5: Get a boost elbow and set it to max out at 35psi (though you will probably max out there with the wastegate stock). This might be a problem as I use something that keeps the wastegate completely shut until 35psi, so I get to 35psi much earlier, but try the elbow anyways as it might work just as well. Step 6: Get a 400HP clutch (or better). If you don't, you might as well stop here. If you have an automatic, get it built up or something (I don't know anything about the auto's but I know the stock one's don't hold up). Step 7: Take the AFC arm out of the AFC housing, taking the AFC out of the picture (since the arm is out of the picture). This will leave the fueling up to your foot, which is nice. Step 8: Take the fuel plate out. Again this leaves fueling up to your foot but also provides max fueling. I would like to have someone with a 215HP 12V do this setup and see what happens. They should have only a haze or slight amount of smoke (after the turbo lights) and the EGT's should be much harder to get over 1200F. The turbo should light extremely quick as well. There are some other things I did that might have made a difference as well but I don't know if anyone would go that far: [*]Remove the Fan [*]Remove the Fan Shroud (this means doing something with the overflow and wiper fluid) I think taking the shroud off allowed the air to free flow through the intercooler more since it isn't running into the shroud on the sides, giving lower IAT temps under high boost conditions (when your getting near 1200F). Here is the part you must know and is key to success. With no AFC and no fuel plate, flooring it means max fuel at any point in time with or without turbo boost. This means you can get a ton of smoke down low before boost is built if you happen to step on it. You must get a feel for the pedal. The rack inside the pump only moves a fraction of what the pedal does. If you get in the truck, turn the key on, bump the starter (don't start it, bumping it engages the shutoff solenoid), and push down on the pedal easily until it gets hard to push (should only go down an inch, maybe less), that is actually full rack travel because the governor flyweights are not fighting you since they are not spinning. You can feel that in the pedal when you step on it, if you can just ride slightly behind that hard spot, it will move dynamically with engine RPM until it is to the floor (3000 RPM). The 215HP pump retards timing (none of the other pumps do) when the rack is all the way in because it has to jam more fuel in to get the higher HP rating. It is 4* retarded IIRC. To keep the engine efficient, you don't want it to be retarded, you want to keep the rack slightly behind that full rack spot so that it isn't retarding timing. If you put it to the floor and then do this method, you will see that the truck is faster when you ride slightly behind the rack. Fuel plates do this for you to an extent but not nearly as good as your foot is capable of doing. There is a reason 24V guys have many different levels. You can adjust your plate constantly, or you can take it out and adjust your foot constantly. After a few weeks (give or take), you will be a pro at it and be able to dynamically control fueling better than any chip can even dream of doing. It will become 2nd nature. You will know when it is going to smoke, when the turbo is going to light, everything and have 100% control over it, not riding some AFC or fuel plate that might not be the power you were wanting for that particular instant. This takes some tedious footwork but is really not that hard. I had one of the two springs fall off the throttle and I can press the pedal to the floor with my pinky. I had to readjust my footwork but after 2 days it was back to being 2nd nature and it's kinda nice not having to press hardly at all. If anyone wants to try this, do everything I said (cept the optional stuff) as they all add up to success, then let me know your results.

Yes the fooler uses IAT temps but that is just to get the computer to stop doing whatever it does in winter. My truck is set, everything is the same in winter as summer, the computer controls nothing, eveny timing is set. The actual IAT temps matter very little as far as I can tell. I got 25MPG going 45mph which ran the engine so cold that the engine coolant never got over 175F in the 35 mile jaunts I made while testing at 10F ambient(heater was on full blast and that was all the heat the engine was making). I get the same mileage on a 100F day. So it shows IAT does nothing. My theory is that the IAT will warm up once it gets into the intake horn and try to get to the operating temp of the engine, then in the summer the air is already warm so doesn't take on as much heat. Therefore, they both probably end up close to the same temps by the time the air hits the combustion chamber. Mike says the air already raises 50F over ambient in the winter anyways and that is at the sensor, so by the time it gets to the combustion chamber it might be 100F. If you took the intake manifold completely off and ran 0F air straight into the valve intake port, then I think there might be a noticeable difference. But the way it is OEM, I think the air gets preheated enough that you won't notice a difference between summer and winter because the air gets to the same point. I'm not absolutely sure about this but I drive extremely consistent and my MPG numbers for winter and summer on the 55mph test runs are basically identical.

He said 18-19 in town..