ISX

I would run a little kerosene before anything else. It burns just like diesel fuel (unlike gas) so it is the best thing to add. Just remember that it is about $1.20 more than regular diesel..

Well I'll be damned. I never thought about how your parking brake worked having 4 discs. Not sure what to think of it.

I got:P0138 Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range.P1391 Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.I wonder if it is a bad ground that is shared between the oxygen sensor and cps. Would the cps make it jerk and backfire and everything else? Guess I don't know what either sensor would do if it were bad.

Interesting how things that "can't be done" are always the things that last or pave the way to something revolutionary. You have a great mind working for you up in your head.

If we even knew the VP's timing it would help. I thought it was really advanced from the factory which is why it knocks so bad. Mine knocked when I advanced the timing but only when you revved it during that acceleration period. How a 24V can knock like that just idling makes me think it is wayyy advanced, but I really have no clue, nobody seems to.

I want a pic of this internal drum!

This seems pretty involved. I might just get my truck back together instead Maybe I will learn how to fix the dakota

That thing lets you got up to 15* over stock timing? Does it say you can go that high even with a stock 24V?

As some of you know, I have been driving around in my brothers 2000 V6 3.7L 4x4 5spd dakota while I mess with my truck. Well today (and supposedly a week ago it happened to my dad) it just went nuts. Ran perfect then all of a sudden it would buck and backfire and the RPM gauge was going all over the place erratically. If you let off it will just get lower and lower on the RPM until it dies, sometimes it will catch itself though and rev up to 1200 (like something in the gassermatronics is sticking), it does that even when the engine is running fine and everything, but today it added all the insanity to it. On the way back home it ran fine, then I had to stop for a car and when I took back off it just bucked and backfired again, then as quickly as it had started doing it, it ended it and ran fine. Any ideas? I don't know anything about gassers, believe it or not

This happens to the dakota all the time. I even told you about it, when I had to put it in 4LO and 1st gear and step on it and then you get a big BANG since the discs are froze to the pads. I never set my e-brake in the winter if I can help it. When your wheels are full of snow and your brakes get hot when your stopping, say your stopping for your driveway..now you have melted snow all over your brake pads (some people call it "water") and obviously it just freezes everything. Happens all the time with the dakota, though hardly with my dodge, must be a disc brake thing. Hmm, reading your posts I can't figure it out, did the trailer or your truck freeze up? You say drums so I assume trailer, which throws out my disc brake theory

You got a really nice house Russ! I like how the front porch is supported

I actually have no clue there. I didn't balance mine and it's fine, though they do say carbon build and housing contact happen if it's not balanced. I took mine apart again and there was no carbon and no housing contact marks from what I could tell. The turbine wheel/shaft is balanced and the compressor wheel is also balanced, therefore I see no reason for them to need to be balanced unless the compressor wheel is balanced based on a machine that matches it with the turbine or something. But if both are balanced then they will be balanced when they are together. I even asked that guy about it and he said he never did it and never had a problem either. Maybe need some more input from others on this.

Well I see the guy I got mine from doesn't have any listed but he still might have some. Just look up his ID and contact him. His ID is "wall5150". The shaft was very nice and was balanced and everything. --- Update to the previous post... To make it easy (not sure how to look people up) it's the same guy as who is selling this so you can just click his ID to pm him there. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holset-HX35-HX40-HY35-Turbocharger-Turbo-Rebuild-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ008QQitemZ180618179169QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I got mine on ebay. Think it was around $75.

That fence is about 3ft tall.

I've been plowing with the tractor for 3 hours straight. Finally got my driveway done, even did 1/4 mile of the road (my house to grandpa's). He was out there in his tractor, about the same size as ours only his has a cab. I asked if it was warm in there and he said it was so hot he had to turn the heat down. Ours doesn't have a cab I shoulda traded him tractors. He goes so slow on that thing. I was plowing the road backwards at 15mph on ours, was the only way to get the 2ft worth to not bunch up to the point of stopping the tractor. Eventually I couldn't tell where the edge of the road was and I took it off into the ditch, right in front of gramps I coulda got out using the front end loader but he had a chain on it and pulled it right out. So now instead of the road having a constant 2ft on it, the road is down to the pavement with 4ft banks on each side. There are no plowed roads whatsoever right now. All in all, if I had a tractor with a heated cab, I could care less how much it snowed Ok maybe a bigger tractor as well.

That's exactly what I got. I'll get pics and we can compare

Rumor has it you can make them last longer by periodically spraying the rubber on the wiper with silicon spray.

See thats another thing. Dorkweed has no problem getting into the 20's with his CR. I think there are 25 or something ECM's out there for the 24V VP44, so I wonder if finding one the same model # as yours would get the mpg gain. Not sure if you can just plug and play like that though.

See Mike told me the stock truck won't get anything for mileage. Making me think even more that these things are programmed differently or something. Weird thing is, the other guy I know getting 25mpg has a nv4500, edge juice, 100hp injectors.. In other words, nothing is as expected with these things. Maybe they are all programmed the same, I don't know. Guesswho512's truck is identical to mine even down to the paint color, and he doesn't get anything for mileage, yet I get 27 at 55. So it would be really neat to trade him trucks and mess with his til his gets 27 as well. If they are the same trucks, it will take the same fuel to get it down the road (and I really don't see a difference in mileage even with 2 engine blocks in the back, so that "24V get less because they weigh more" is BS). The other thing is that I got the same mileage completely stock (muffler and all) as I do now. Now there are compression ratio differences between the 12V and SO 24V, but you and THracing and the other guy who all get exceptional mileage all have SO 24V's, with and without mods. That brings the factory programming back into the picture. There just has to be something different in that aspect.

I got a few questions that might help in this endless quest. List the speeds and MPG for them if you know them. As in, mine would be 21mpg@70mph, and it gains 2mpg for every 5mph decrease. Does your mileage change in the winter? Do you run a chip of any kind or is it stock?Are you hand calculating mileage or going by the overhead?I am almost beginning to think there are different "tunes" on the programming of the trucks. Most of this is not apple to apple conditions though. You are in, well close enough to little rock which isn't very much elevation, same as here, but then other people are running higher elevation. I don't know how much this effects things, but I got the same 21mpg going to denver at 70mph as I got going to detroit. So it seems I get a universal 21 at 70 so it seems like conditions don't matter that much. If the VP44 wasn't such a mystery as to how it worked (timing) then I think it would be easier to figure out all these mpg issues.

But you get that all the time They said this is the first time we have got over 15" here at one time since some time in the 1800's.

Going to be -12F tomorrow night. We were in the eye of the storm with 2ft of snow and the wind is so fierce that the snow drifts are up to 5ft, even in the middle of the road. Driving home in my brothers dakota, I usually lug it at 1200RPM when I have to drive slow (15mph), but I was pushing snow to the point that it would flat out kill it, I had to run 2000+RPM for that little V6 to not peter out. I walked out to the garage in all the snow drifts, walked back out a minute later and couldn't find my footprints. You can barely breath it is so windy. The snow is coming down in sheets. At the edge of the house the wind is taking the snow away, you can see grass, but past the edge of the house is a line of a 4ft snow drift, right next to the bare grass.But, my truck is in the garage, hasn't been touched by a snowflake lol.

Mike put in a potentiometer (variable resistor) and is testing to find optimal setting, though I think he is having some issues with the potentiometer he is using (way too high of range resistance). I was wanting someone to use a 5K one so they could change it more precisely, possibly even watch the instant MPG on the scangauge while your driving to find the best resistance setting. But you basically want a resistor around the 2-4k range. 2.2k is what I used in stodg's which should be around 143, 2.7k is 132F (the one mike used before putting in the potentiometer). There is no solid answer as to what the resistance should be, but at least 100F seems to be the key. Hmmmmmmmmmmm, I wonder if you could hook it in with the ECT sensor. Would work perfect, though I think over 200F throws a code? I might know how to get around that.

Yeah it really needs a switch in there. Mike just threw a resistor on his and his starts like crap (I heard it on the phone ). They will start without the grids but they wont like it and it will wear the engine out (know this from personal experience skipping the grids on mine, now it relies on them, just like when you use ether, your engine will eventually rely on it since it screws up compression). As far as what to do next with all of this testing, I think it is apparent that it works. I would like to see results of other trucks that are stock or something. The only thing with making them is that I hate wires. It would take 4 wires into the cab to just use a regular switch and resistor and nothing else. For stodg's truck, I used a relay with switch ground so he just stuck the positive on the battery (though he stuck it in the fuse box so it would be fused) and then you only have one wire going into the cab which is hooked to a switch. The other side of the switch you just hook to ground, which means anything in the cab that is grounded will work so you don't have to send a wire back out of the cab. Being a relay, you can switch it up however you like, meaning it doesn't matter which polarity you hook to the relay power wires, as long as one is positive and one is negative, it will work. I need to work on the design a little more. Someone (I think it was JJCTD, cant remember the full name lol) suggested phone cable, which would be very small and so it wouldn't take a gaping whole in the firewall to hook it up. I will have to keep looking at my options.