wil440

I've just come across a pair of exhaust brakes, just the actuators no controllers, from pictures and measurements they look to be 3 1/2" ID on a 4 1/2" V band both straight not angled Both are off of a Daf cf55 which has the 5.9 cummins fitted but the pre 24v, I'm assuming my downpipe is stock but have't measured it yet hope they are the correct size, bigger than stock I'll be ok, smaller than stock and I'll sell them on to the landrover/cummins conversion boys Whats the easiest way to operate one without spending huge amounts ?

Hasn't the trans got a overrun clutch ?

my 98.5 auto is stock as far as I know, stock turbo, stock injectors, 315 or 355 tyres can't remember which, quad and a mechanical LP. I tow a lot maybe 10k lb +. my truck is a work truck foremost and people look at me like I've just landed from the planet ZOG for using it for work here in the UK (most use either ford transits or some other garbage van that can barely move under it's own steam) a transit here can only be 3500kg gross I use a towing tune found on here all the time. EGT never get over 1000, fuel temps never get over 120f and mostly are closer to 100f, I don't use OD much at all as our speed limit in built up areas is 30mph my gearing/tyres and final drive ratio is perfect for 30mph, turn OD on and I'm perfect for the next speed limit of 50mph. Point of this is here in the UK my truck with just the quad is more than enough, reliable ( I hope) decent fuel economy and tax man pays for fuel anyway, I've been down the horsepower rabbit hole with a blown 500ci mopar with Ray Barton, that cost me my house and nearly my marriage, I baled at £20k My truck is a handful and it eats my 5th wheel and my work trailer and other than the quad it is as far as I know bone stock Apologies for the ramble and I see that peeps have to make the HP mistake/journey what ever you want to call it, my restriction is trans and I'm ok with that PS beat a 1 year old BMW X5 off of the lights yesterday easily and the guy was going for it, my truck wasn't even in D when the lights changed

With me working for Caterpillar and the UK cat dealer Finning in the past I only use Deutsch connectors with the gold plated terminals, they are more expensive than the plain steel terminals but make a much better connection due to the soft gold when the pins and sockets are pushed together, demountable, reusable (except the pins and sockets) and weather proof https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154466240495 The crimp tool is expensive here but I bet to you guys it's as cheap as chips I haven't used bullet or spade connectors in over 20 years

I put maybe £80 to a £100 in mine twice a week if I'm working but I do charge the customer £1.00 per mile travel, last week I did 5 days and one top up at £80 and one at £90, customer paid over £400 for travel so I'm not complaining plus I'm Vat registered which means I get the 20%vat back against my Vat bill

You guys are lucky, diesel here ranges from £1.37 to £1.50 per litre

Mate of mine drops round yesterday, he has a 03 1500 hemi, I scanned this about a year ago for a misfire, cylinders 5 and 7 low secondary spark IIRC so ordered coils from R/A for him so he fits the coils and the misfire is still there, he buys a cheapo code reader as he lost my number and the code had changed can't remember what to but it was plugs/leads/coils or ECM, sort of the same fault but different code So he changes the plugs/leads already done the coils, no change so he buys a ECM from the USA which matched all numbers on his original, fitted that and all good except ABS light flashing hence the visit to me yesterday, so this morning I go plug the S/O Modis in as his cheapo reader doesn't do ABS or anything else other than engine. Codes 82, 83 and 84. 82 and 83 are tone ring mismatch so checked live data parked and everything looked ok, did a code clear and 82 and 83 wouldn't clear (84 is VIN mismatch) Turns out tyre size was wrong from his original ECM to his replacement, replacement had 235/80/17 IIRC and his tyres were 275/60/20, put in the new tyre size and ABS light off, took it for a run and it stayed off, I have advised him to send his original ECM to somewhere like ACS and get it checked out and repaired and keep the replacement as a good known spare My good deed for the day done and my mate is well happy

I only did my WP because it was a tiny bit wet on the tell tale hole and I do mean a tiny bit, once it was warm it was a no show but when cool it was just wet/damp so I now have a useable spare if I need it, this is unfortunatly the only way to run a american vehicle here in the UK, fast shipping from R/A is quick but costs £££ so depending on weight it can be 10 days to get to my door so I'm surrounded by new parts, good used parts, bad used parts just in case there is something I can use On the other hand I'd think a W/P for you guys would be cheap enough just to throw one on while the front is off, guess it depends on availability I'd say at least pull the cover and check the KDP and cover bolts as it's a gasket and a seal and a bit of time, it's best to find you did it for no reason whatsoever rather than looking at the front after a grenade has gone off and thinking "I wish" mines 24 years old nearly and I have no idea what monkeys have owned it and what stupid stuff they did, my 3500 was the worst, straight from the twin towers clean up cutting steel girders around 2003/2004 IIRC, thing was a death trap, I drove it back from Southampton docks thinking WTF have I bought, my fault really as I went to NY to buy it but it was so cheap I didn't drive it and to be fair me driving in the sticks and on the left you can kiss goodbye to me driving in NY/NJ. Pulled to the right and I mean PULLED every steering joint not just worn but crackered, no brakes (one rear brake was working) Sorry I digress

Mine was cheaper than super cheap as it was in the bolt bucket

Take a look at pulling the shift tower and welding that wider so it can't go between, that peice would be on the bench right ??

Totally different year I know but 98.5 I checked mine when I first got it, yes it could have come out, no step as you would have thought, dowel was tight BUT 2 bolts right there were finger tight and they could have come out, I torqued all the bolts, made a KDP keeper plate out of a washer that is a bit egg shaped from a 440 Mopar intake manifold bolt that has the throttle return spring on it, think the washer came with a Demon carb I fitted to a 69 charger a few years ago, changed the front seal and all good, not a bad job really, changed the WP at the same time

I've looked at your pictures again. Are you sure that 45 degree ish angle is wear, looks a bit too uniform for me, are you sure the end of the stick is not worn narrower and the gap between each is not worn bigger allowing the stick to go between ??? Here's another thought, the end of the stick will not be cast, just build that up and dress it back so it cannot go between

If it is cast iron it is possible to weld it BUT from what I was taught the whole peice needs to be heated, also use cast rods in a stick welder not Mig although there may be a mig wire for the job nowadays I don't know. If you have a stick welder and a heat source IE oxy acetylene or at worst oxy propane and can get some cast rods go for it And as for heat it's not glowing for the record, from memory and this is at least 40 years ago (apprenticeship) if the peice is not heated when the weld cools it pulls the grain of the metal apart but not where the weld is maybe a 1/8th or a 1/4 away, if you have the equipment do a search for the temp to heat

Got the crank torqued and pistons/rods in, camshaft in and core plugs fitted today, Had a tight rod bearing, not enough to stop the crank turning but a tad too tight for my liking, this thing is a bit strange as when I stripped it the rod markings were anyhow with cylinder numbers either not on the rods/caps or in the wrong place and this is over 2 years ago, it's had a crank grind/rebore/ new pistons/rings/bearings, I should have had the rods resized but here in the UK that's a PITA so I figure with everything renewed all will be good, the tight rod bearing took a little glass paper on the rod/cap. It is a little tight though on the main bearings, I have good side to side on all rods with fingers so it's not the rods, I'm going to take a look at the thrust cap as I'll bet a £ to a pinch of ~~~~ that the place where it was ground just ground the journals and not the thrust area. This is what happens here all the time, machine shops have not got a clue on American stuff but hey they talk a good talk, I'm now going to remove main capos to see where it's at starting with the thrust cap

Fetched the 390 back to my house, it's now in my workshop on the engine stand, crank fitted and torqued to 50lbft, will leave that overnight and find the correct torque for the mains tomorrow morning, hopefully won't take long to build this thing, I'm aiming for done before the weekend

Yes and that list is just what I know of, my wife keeps hinting I should sell my 3500, I've had it since 2003 ish it won't be sold

I finally bit the bullet and ordered panels for the front doors on my 3500, sick of watching it rust away, company on ebay.com ships to the UK using Ebays GSP, $289 for left and right inner and outer panels, just shy of $440 to my door. I've got a mountain of work to do on it to put it back on the road and some of it not of interest here as it's a 5.9 V8 but here's the list anyway Intake manifold gasket, I have the kit just never got around to doing it Front door repairs both sides Dent in right front fender Bumpers front and rear, may make a pair New battery Passenger side rear door won't open, (this one is the one here thats not used) have the parts Passenger side rear inner door handle cable broke (from trying to get it to open) have the cable Rear propshaft output shaft seal leaking been leaking since 2004 have the seal since 2004 Bed rear corners or take the bed off and make a flatbed Hip running lights Brakes. Have more than enough front brake pads/pistons/seal kits to last 5000 years I think at least a 100 of each Flexi brake pipes, have the pipes hard brake lines, will make them out of copper Radiator, have a Northern aluminium radiator and twin spall fans thats the right configuration from when I imported parts And anything else thats gone west while it's been parked for 3 years or so And all on top of, keeping my 2500 running, running my own business fixing mobile plant, keeping my brothers 1500 ram on the road, building my brother 56 F100, starting on the 390 rebuild for it next week even though I keep telling him it is to big and heavy, hopefully when the 490 is done he sees sense and sells the boat anchor for a 56 Y block or 289/302 Oh and my wife wants an En Suite doing (french for small bathroom ) I bet I get sidetracked but at least I know the heights of the door panels now so once the rust gets to 6" on the outside and 2" on the inside then I have to do the doors as the panels are 8 and 3

Started the job this morning at 10.00 am fitted a new torque convertor, new bush in the oil pump and a new seal, refitted the box, tested and all is good, box in and running by 3.00pm, finished testing and tidying up around 6.00pm. We have a lift but it is a 2 poster and only 3tonne so we only took the truck up about 2 or 3 ft, we had 2 wheel rims under each front wheel and wheel jacks under the rear, we need a bigger lift as I wouldn't feel comfortable under my truck on that lift or a workshop with a pit Got a good strong magnet on the pan and we're going to drop it again on Monday as we've got some pan bolts to helicoil, we knew we had some that weren't great anyway everyone here has metric helicoils BUT no one has unc so had to order the helicoil kit, good reason to drop the pan and check for filings. I'm going to look for a toasted 46re and put a rebuild kit in it to put on the shelf as I want/need to do my 47re and it will be easier to do one beforehand

Legally hurt...... I'd just smash their face in with a shovel, I detest with a serious vengence idiots ripping people off, I don't care one jot if Jeff Bozo or any other billionaire gets took to the cleaners but the guy that works for a living now that is different

I got the small kit and the big complete kit just in case as here in the UK I can't run to the parts store, Pirate Jacks kit is MIUSA as is the other kit I got, there are a lot of kits MIPRC sorry but I'd rather poke burning steel in my eyes than buy those Still haven't done the job but I really need to soon as it's really leaking now, I'll be watching the YT vid thanks

I think my SO Modis is 18.4 but both my trucks are 98 and my brother has a gas 2000 so no problem for me and at £600 + for a SO update I as yet don't need to jump TF All good info though mate for when I can't connect THANKS

and I would bet both legs and both arms it was timing and load, was the 50psi corrected IE minus 14.9 or not, either way 50psi in the grand scheme of diesel combustion pressures matter not a jot what will matter and matter a lot is angle of the crank and rod when max expansion occurs absolutly no difference to a gas motor, fired off to early with not enough crank angle the charge is going to find another way out simple

Input shaft is ok, where the input splines locate in the torque convertor has no spines. Just ordered a good used pump with new bushing and seal installed as I'm not happy with this one as the bush is loose in the cover but I've also got a seal/bush kit and pump gears on order also so I'll see what the new bush is like in the old cover pictures not too good, I've just had a new mobile/cell phone and I can't use the thing The smaller splines that are blurred you can see that there is no splines until further in where the input shaft doesn't reach

Got it out yesterday and the torque convertor has no splines to drive the input shaft. Pulled the trans oil pump and the bearing is damaged, seal needs replacing as thats not been put in very good at all and the machined surface that sits in the front clutch has a score in it but the bush in the clutch is fine with no damage at all. Checked RA and they don't sell a complete pump just parts to repair Found a trans parts supplier with all the parts to rebuild the pump called Global Transmission Parts so thats all ordered, Rockauto has a convertor so will order that today, going to pick everything up from our workshop and bring it back home so I can turn a bush and seal driver on my lathe

Looks like I get trans experience either way all good for when mine ~~its itself but at least what you suggest is all at the front