greed

I checked on these from www.dashcoversplus.com a few years ago. I never found any reviews on the product. I did talk to the owner and he was very informative. He did talk about the fiberglass covers. As I recall, lots of off gassing.

I had the same type problem with my 2002. It did throw a code. I don't remember the code, but it was for the cam position sensor. Eventually, it threw the 0216 code. Dealer installed rebuilt VP44 under warranty. Still had the problem on a cold morning. I replaced the cam position sensor. No more problems.

I put on a Donaldson - Volant filter. Volant part #61504. Dimensions are 8" X 8" with 4" intake. Supposed to be good for 150,000 miles. I don't remember how fine it filters. Supposed to flow about 1,200 CFM. I know I can hear the turbo more over what I could hear with a Wix BHAF. Specs and a video are on the Volant website. There is also a Outerwears type pre-filter, part #51921.

I wasn't trying to jack a thread. Cuda posted he had a Mag-Hytec and hadn't put it on yet. I mistakenly thought it may be a good time to bring up the Banks video. I am not a Banks fan or follower.

I have a Mag-Hytec on my rear diff. After watching the videos Gale Banks did, I'm seriously considering going back to stock. I had the rear rebuilt once due to a spun carrier bearing and a spun pinion bearing. I don't remember if I had the Mag-Hytec on at that time or not.

It's been a long time age, so my memory may not be up to par. As I recall, someone on www.dieseltruckresource.com adapted in a blower and motor from a Chev pickup.

What type solder are you using?

I was able to get to the disconnect from under the truck. IIRC, it was a pain, not much room, but doable.

Yes, I replaced the insert and the leak stopped.

Unfortunately, I did not save the package. I checked my stash of inserts, and I believe it is a 5/16 insert. I checked the Dorman website and came up with Part# 800-005. Hope this helps.

My 2002 has a plastic disconnect on the bottom of the tee on the return line. Mine was leaking, and I got new plastic inserts at NAPA. IIRC, they are 3/8.

No, I cycled the pump with the key a few times. I had mine mounted back by the tank. Changed one on a friends truck, and we had to crack a couple of injectors to get it to start.

Including the original, I went through 6 of the Carter pumps. As I recall, even with a 3/8 line kit, about the best I saw was 12PSI at idle. It would drop to 7 or 8 under load. Then the pressure would start to fluctuate. When the pressure started to fluctuate, I changed out the pump. I had bought 4 at the $64.00 campaign pump price. The last one I had to pay the full $180.00 price. I went to an aftermarket pump, and it holds 15PSA continually. Loaded or unloaded.

It looks like RiffRaff and Diesel Manor get them from dieselOrings.com. I checked their site and they have them in stock, for $14.95. It looks like the one they show has some extra pieces. I forgot to get the part number. Maybe Amazon would have some. I got mine off Ebay. Maybe I didn't look hard enough, but I didn't find any recently.

Diesel Manor and RiffRaff diesel have them. They are listed for a Ford pressure test port.

It's been a few years, but I found some on Ebay. They were 1/8" NPT male. McMaster-Carr may have some or a A/C repair shop.

Another one to check out is Dash Covers Plus. They are a bit pricey. The owner is a good guy to talk to.

I've broken a few of the plastic tabs of of my bezel. I've glued them back on with JB Weld and some of the two part plastic weld epoxy. I don't remember which epoxy I used. LMC Truck has the felt anti rattle pads.

I wish I could remember where I read about this, or which forum, someone used a Chev blower motor in their 2nd gen. IIRC, it put out quite a bit more air. Sounded pretty interesting. If I can find it I'll post it.

When I was towing my 11K fifth wheel, with the exhaust brake on , the clutch would slip on long, steep downhill grades, like McDonald pass going into Helena, MT. Clutch never slipped on level or uphill pulls. My truck is stock. I called SB, and their recommendation was the dual disc due to fairly heavy towing and the exhaust brake. So that is what I got from DAP. The dual disc doesn't seem to be very grabby. It doesn't like to slip, so sometimes quick engage, disengage helps when backing. It weighs about 20lbs more than stock. You will notice the engine lugging quicker than with the stock clutch. Pedal pressure isn't much different. The one thing I changed from the SB kit was the throwout bearing. I read on different forums where people had problems with the supplied throwout bearing. I went with a SKF from Rockauto. It looks to be a lot better quality. I believe SB changed their supplier, they may have a better bearing now. It wouldn't hurt to change the rear seal while your in there. Better safe than sorry.

I went through DAP for my SB clutch.

Checking the hub temp is a good idea. I've got an IR thermometer and I check a lot of stuff, but never the front hubs. I don't know what would be good or bad temp. If you happen to do a brake teardown, that would be a good time to grease the bearing. Or, if you like getting dirty, sweaty and cussing a lot, you could tear the brakes down for a good clean up on the sliding surfaces and grease them then. They use the winter road slime stuff up here, so I like to check things out every couple of years, as things get pretty gummed up.

Over the years I've never read on the various forums where anyone gained any appreciable mileage gains with the various lock out hub kits. Even a small gain would be nice. I think, the biggest advantage is being able to easily maintain the and check for wear. When my OEM bearings finally give out I may look into a locking hub kit.

Several years ago, there was a long thread on TDR. One of the members had a commercial operation in Spokane, WA. He had several Dodge P/U's in his fleet. He did the bearing grease operation every time he did a brake job. IIRC, the average mileage in his fleet was about 360,000 miles, with no bearing replacements. I'm only at 98,000 miles on my 2002, so time will tell if greasing the bearings helped.

I used the grease that was recommended on courtsara.com. Kendall L-427 super blu. I think I found it on Amazon. He said of all the bearings he had pressed apart, they all looked like that was what was originally used. It is a Lithium complex grease.