greed

My ABS light has never come on.

I lubed the front bearings on my 2002. I pulled the ABS sensor, then pumped in about 30 pumps of grease, turning the hub a bit every few pumps. I used a rubber air blow gun tip on the end of my grease gun to help make contact in the ABS sensor hole. You have to take the brakes off to get at the ABS sensor. I've read even brand new bearings sometimes have very little grease in them. It's a lot of work to get at the ABS, but a good time to clean up the brake slides and inspect everything. A good website explaining all of this is www.courtsara.com.

There is a long thread on TDR called G-plus radiator. It is a welded aluminum radiator listed on Ebay. Seems like it is offered in 3 or 4 row. Aluminum tanks. Not a bad price. Of course, made in china. There was another outfit that makes radiators, but I can't remember the name. You might check that thread out. It is currant, so you don't have to be a member to access.

I did a temp test with an IR gun to maybe see if the starter blanket helps with VP44 cooling. It was a 81 deg day. Engine running at operating temp: VP44 - 95 deg. Engine block - behind VP44 - 150 deg. Engine off after 20 min cool down with hood open: VP44 - 128 deg. Engine block - 134 deg. It doesn't look like the blanket helps much with heat soak on shut down. A

Good idea. I have an IR temp gun. It is pushing 100 deg here, so I should be able to get a fairly good idea if it works.

Katoom, no, I don't have any pictures. As far as holding heat in, while moving or engine running, the fan should move enough air to help cool. After shutdown, the blanket should (I hope) keep radiant engine heat off the VP44 as it is between the VP44 and the block. The VP44 computer, fuel lines are still exposed to open air. I used a large hose clamp and clamped the top side of he blanket to the air horn.

I don't know if this helps my VP44 from radiant engine heat or not, but I draped a Chevy starter heat shield from the air horn to as far behind the VP44 as I could get it.

Genos have a cab filter that mounts under the windshield wipers. That will keep bees, etc. out of the cab. On both sides of the cowl, near the bottom, there is a gap between the cowl and the fender. I filled those gaps with a stainless steel pot scrubber. You have to pull the cowl cover to see those slots. Some of the mounting studs and nuts will probably get messed up. You can get them at www.clipsandfasteners.com a lot cheaper than the dealer.

It could be the gauge is going bad after seeing too high of pressure for that length of time. I had a Nordskog digital (electrical) gauge that would start to fluctuate. The sending unit caused it. Sometimes the fluctuation was the factory lift pump getting ready to tale a dump. I solved the gauge problem by going with an Isspro mechanical plumbed directly into the cab.

I think I read somewhere several years ago, that above 140deg, asphaltene begins falling out of the fuel, creating a black gooey mess. There was a long thread on TDR where guys were trying different means of keeping the fuel cooler. Including log style fuel coolers. I don't remember the results. Someone measured the fuel return temp to the tank. It was quite hot. Probably the easiest thing to do in the hot months is keep the tank on the full side.

There are one or two block drain plugs on the block. I don't remember exactly where. I did a google search and did find some reference to them. The general consensus was, they are so rusted in they would probably get messed up trying to get them out. I haven't checked into them much after I read of the potential problems. I would like to have drain petcocks in the block.

I fill my NV5600 from underneath. I use a pump from the auto parts that fits on the lube bottle. I put a piece of clear tubing on the nozzle. I use the next to the top PTO cover bolt holes as a fill point and fill until lube starts coming out of the hole. I have a CB radio mounted and some other stuff, so it is quicker than getting to the trans top cover. Also, I run a 50/50 mix of Amsoil MTL & MTF. Seems to work OK. I also put a big magnet in the trans. I did have 2 Blumenthall coolers on the trans, but had to take the passenger side off when I went to 4" exhaust. I put the stand off exhaust heat shield on like I believe Katoom did to cut down on heat.

I don't believe the 3rd gen steering box will fit the 2nd gen. Several years ago, Opieparts was making an adapter to put the 3rd gen box on a 2nd gen. Last time I looked, I couldn't find the adapter on his site.

Have you checked the IOD fuse? It is #12 in the fuse panel in the dash and has a plastic cover on it. The cover on mine is black.

I had slivers of metal on my magnet, maybe a bit bigger than what you describe. I checked the backlash and it was .027. Had the rear end rebuilt and it turned out a pinion bearing and a carrier bearing had gone out. I also had a lot of metallic paste on the magnet. I was just off the 36,000 mile warranty. I was running 75-140 Sta-Lube synthetic lube.

I think that cleaner is Caig DEOXIT. They have a website about their products. They are also available on Amazon.

This thread has been extremely interesting. I looked up the Caig DEOXIT that W-T mentioned. It is available in several different configurations on Amazon.

I don't personally know anything about this place, but they have posted a few things on some of the other truck forums. www.carcomputerexchange.com. I tried to look up reviews. Bad reviews came up for autocomputerexchange in Florida. This carcomputerexchange is in North Carolina as I recall.

How much fuel is in the tank? My friends truck died, would not start. Fuel gauge showed 1/4 tank. Put 10 gal of fuel in, it started right up. Fuel gauge is off by 1/4 tank.

If the Innova 3320 works good for testing the AC feedback, it sounds good . It is like $18.00 or $19.00 on Amazon.

I have 4th gen 17" on my 2002. It has rear disc brakes. Fit is no problem. I would think they would fit yours with no problem. Yes, you do use your old lug nuts.

I've only checked it one time with an IR thermometer. I don't remember what the temp was. I was towing a 12k fifth wheel over mountain passes. I don't remember being alarmed. I'm about due for a lube change and I've thought about using the top side hole. I put a stand off exhaust blanket on like DRipley or Katoom, can't remember who, that should help. The exhaust is pretty close to the cooler.

Top middle bolt. I have Blumenthol coolers. Basically the same as Fast, maybe a little longer. IIRC, the last fluid change took 9-91/2 quarts.

I use a clear vinyl tube on the end of one of those little pumps that fit on a lube bottle. Then I pump fluid in until it just comes out of the top PTO bolt hole.

I recently replaced my BHAF with one of the Volant #61504 filters and Volant #51921 pre filters on my 2002. No cold air box, just mounted on end of turbo hose. I did make a heat wrap out of some Thermo Tec FR insulating mat I had laying around. I haven't done any towing or heavy duty use to see if EGT's dropped any. It does seem like the engine revs a bit easier and a bit more turbo sound. My BHAF (WIX2790) had been on for several years, so may have plugged up a bit. I may possibly be back to normal.