FlatTwin

Mike,Your results are almost exactly what I am getting. Just did a trip from Phoenix to the Gilroy CA area, then back down to through the LA area and home again. Just shy of 1500 miles in two days and an average just shy of 23 mpg. Course what kicked my rear were the 45 mph head-winds for the three hours coming South again otherwise would have had closer to 24 mpg.Started out with the ScanGauge 1 years ago and loved it, but now using the ScanGauge 2 and its even easier to work with. As well the "data cord" is a Cat 5 network cord so if needed you can patch in longer extensions to make it work.Joe A

I did the same thing you are doing on my 2002 and love the result. Did not have a LP failure, was just noticing that my fuel pressure was lower than I liked so made the update. It now rarely goes lower than 13 psi even at WOT and normally sits at 16-17 psi. Also went with the drawstraw and big line kit from Vulcan and everything went in very easily.

Problem is that this ratio will not (as far as I know) fit in my rear end assy. I had looked into going with a different gear ratio and it just was not that much of a change, so started looking at GV units. Right now in my area we are looking at just below $4 a gallon for diesel. What if it goes to $5 a gallon? How abouts $6 a gallon? This changes things rapidly and if you can add another 20% fuel mileage, especially with a Cummins, it starts to look a lot better.

Probably because I do not have a "D" on my six speed manual gearbox! I get my best mileage around 1600 rpm's which is right at 63 mph on the highway. As the speed limit is 75 mph here in Arizona on the main roads and 70 on many others, running a double overdrive would as is noted get me better mileage. --- Update to the previous post... Not really looking for a complete reman NV5600 but good call as they might have parts that they would sell, a tail-housing included! Thx!

Thinking about a Gear Vendors overdrive again. Any experience here with them?With fuel closing in on $4 a gallon am looking at putting on on the truck. Talked with Gear Vendors and have found one used for $1500 and the extra giblets will cost another $6-900 or so then installation. Yes thats a lot of diesel fuel but my gut tells me that fuel is not going to get cheaper for a long time so if I am going to do this then its time.Evidently I need a NV5600 tail housing off of a 4 X 4 truck to make the GV work with my two wheel drive tranny. Any ideas where to get one for a reasonable price? GV suggested Dodge and we know how thats going to cost! Thx,Joe (aka FT)

Mike,This fix is for several things. If your temp is stuck at hot, then am guessing that your diverter door is stuck, or the coupling that comes from the drive motor has broken and its not moving. Now if your temp control had a very small range of motion like mine does it may also be the switch, control or diverter door sticking. This is the worst cobbled up system I have ever seen and really want to get it working right one time then I am thinking of putting a valve on the heater hose to turn it off in summer or when heat is not needed and end this game the Dodge engineers are playing with us.Joe

Mike,Thanks much, will give it a look!Joe

I have one of the 50 gallon aux fuel tank/toolbox units in the truck. Got it used off of Craigslist and really like it.Now one thing is that I still have not gotten around to hooking the electrics up on the critter. Does anyone know if there is any way to bypass all the electronics that come with it and just put power to the pump and pump the fuel into the main tank? We hooked up the fuel tank lines when installing it but frankly had spent enough time under the truck already when doing the Raptor lift pump and did not get into the wiring from the fuel level sending gauge on the main tank that the TF computer needs to work. Everything else appears to be pretty straight forwards on the hookup. Would love to just flip a switch and transfer whatever fuel is in the tank to the main but do not know of a way to do this. Thought there used to be a forum or bulletin board on the Transfer Flow website but cannot find it so guessing that they took it down.Thx,Joe

Mike and Russ,Thanks for the info.I have no idea if the door is accessable from the RH footwell. The shop says that they have to take the whole dash off and if thats what they do they can have fun.They replace the coupling to the motor last summer then now are working with the door. Will give them a ring and see if they did calibrate the unit or not. Otherwise its coming apart again. Are parts like an entire diverter door still available? The shop is acting like Dodge is not supplying parts for all the trucks this old and they refuse to use any aftermarket parts.Joe

Mike,Thanks for the quick reply. So you are thinking that they did not calibrate the door when they worked with it last time? How much trouble it this? Thx,Joe

Hmm, need to check my software.Glad I live close enough to drive to the ScanGauge office!Joe

Well all, still fussing with my heating/AC system. I swear that if it was not for the Cummins engine I would sell this truck immediately due to the "time after time after time" hassles we have been having with the climate control.Back in June or so I took it to a good shop here in town and they pulled the dash and installed a new diverter door coupling. Seems that the coupling had broken and the motor could not move the door. It worked for a few days then stopped but luckily for me it stuck in the cold position so the A/C worked fine and in Arizona in the summer thats important. Finally this fall I took the truck back to have them fix it right.Well kids, the truck has been in the shop 3 times now and it still is not IMHO working right. Second time they found something else wrong and third time they found the diverter door moving but "sticking in the frame" so they shimmed it to work.Now I am able to turn the heater control from cold to hot and the door does move changing the temp but its not right. In my feeble mind when you take it from cold to the 1/3rd position you should get air warmer than full cold. Take it to the 1/2 position and it should be halfway warm. 3/4rds position and it should be pretty warm but not full hot. This is not what happens as it is right now. Now you take it to the 1/2 position and you get either full cold or full hot. Turn it one notch left (cold) and you get full cold, or turn it one click hot and you get full hot. The door is still moving but there is no moderation, its either full hot or cold. They tell me that if the last "shimming" operation did not fix it that we have to replace the diverter door assy AND the housing that its in. That the housing where it mounts is getting old and the door is not moving correctly. Anyone else have this happen? Now to make it worse they say that this part may be NLA, no longer available from Dodge so that they cannot fix it. They will not use anything but dealer sold parts and they say that a 2002 is not supported by Dodge any longer. They are doing all this work for free once I paid for the first repair, so this is why they keep getting it back but am tired of the 20 mile drive each way and hassle with the truck.Would sure appreciate any tips or ideas? Thx,Joe

Good to know!

Well finally got things finished. I now have a "salvage/repaired" title and check in my hand from the insurance people. At least now I can use the funds to fix the truck and make some improvements!FT

Finally figured out what was wrong with my heating/AC system. The "blend door" was stuck. It would open from time to time but not on any regular basis. Took it back to the shop who worked on the whole system and they yanked the dash out finding the problem. Seems that there was a burr on the door that kept it from moving right.

It was! Two bloody hours sitting there doing nothing for an inspection that took 3 minutes. People there were nice but their boss had overbooked them by about double so they were going crazy with vehicles to inspect. Now that this is done I get to return to the DMV and with my new inspection form they will give me a "Salvage repaired title" and I am good to go!

Have it set all the time to "immediate response" but it does not seem to work with me. I have made the replies "immediate reply" and have not gotten any with this thread at all. Heading to the inspection place in an hour. Here in Arizona they make you do a "level 3" inspection ($50!!!) to allow you to drive the vehicle after its been "salvaged" which is a total crock with a hail damaged vehicle.

Richie,Thanks much.Well kids, the hole gets deeper! Now find out from the AZ DMV that once any vehicle is titled salvage that it cannot be driven in this status!Trick to it is that you have to get a "phase 3 inspection" to put it into a "repaired salvage" catagory then you are allowed to drive it. Can be done at the same time but just another hoop (and $8 processing fee) to jump over.Hey Mike, I am not getting any notifications when a new post is made on this thread. Before you ask, I have "instantly using email" selected below.Thx,Joe

Any suggestions on which year body panels and hood to be on the lookout for? Have decided to keep it, replace the hood and live with the rest. Can use the extra funds for upgrades on the truck! :)Joe

Mike,Will do when I get a chance. To tell the truth, if someone stands 15 feet away from the truck you cannot see a thing.The hood and roof took most of it, and they say that this is $3500 to fix, then the bed rails are all dented and so on.A question for the group.Which hood fits a 2002 2500 series trucks? Assuming that a 3500 hood is the same but how about a 1500 series? What year ranges are the same as this one? Am prolly going to get a new hood, use the "paintless dent repair" guys to fix the roof as best as possible then live with the rest. Thx,Joe

Russ,Already tried and they said that it was a state requirement. Evidently after the flooding in Florida and Katrina along the gulf, loads of cars were sold that had been flooded. This caused a lot of problems and laws were changed. Thanks for the input though and had wondered about that as well. Joe

Well guys,Was not a good week last week in Phoenix. We had a massive hail storm here, dropping hail up to tennis ball sized. Truck was where it always is, out in the drive. My garage is too small for the truck. The entire truck is now peppered with small to medium sized dents. Glass made it fine but all the rest of the sheet metal, especially on the left hand side is peppered. House as well, with almost $5000 in damage there.They are now offering me to total it out and take the truck and give me $11.5k cash. Other option is to total the truck and put a "salvage title" on it with me keeping the truck and giving me about $7.5k in hand. First off I like the truck and really do not want to lose it. Could care less about the dents but again it would look better fixed. As well I have finally debugged the truck, putting a drawstraw, Edge-Juice w/Attitude, Airdog and TransferFlow tank/tool box on the truck, so do not want to lose all of that. Has anyone else been through this and have any suggestions? I would be a lot happier keeping the truck if they did not force me to "salvage title" the puppy. A new hood, paintless dent repair on the roof would go a long way and just do not see its being a salvage vehicle with this type of damage. That said, I am planning on keeping the truck so have to factor that into the mix as well.Thanks,Joe

Am having exactly the same thing happen. No rhyme or reason to it, it happens if the alarm is set or not, and does not happen every time, but on a random basis.Also does anyone know how to program the key fob to the alarm system? I bought an extra key fob/alarm control off of Ebay and they provided instructions and all it did was mess up the one good one that I have. Now the entire thing needs to be programed again (twice!) for the system to work. The original one still works but am guessing that its not right and that the alarm is not getting set.

Hmmm, thanks much. Reason I ask is that the shop is 20 miles from my house and while just dropping the truck off and picking it up is the best way, getting a ride there and back is not very easy and a cab is too expensive. If they can do this while I wait for an hour or two thats fine but not going to stay there for 6 hours. At least now we know what we are working with! Learning more every day!Appreciate the help!Joe

Mike,So the temp control feeds info to the blend door and it moderates the airflow and controls the temp? Please do not tell me that the A/C runs all the time the mode switch is in either of the two A/C positions (unless shut off by the sensor switches) and the blend door mixes A/C cooled and air heated from the heater matrix? Boy, the person who designed this system needs to be in a small room with padded walls IMHO...Next question, can you get to the blend door wiring without pulling the dash? Am wondering whats going on in my case, that the door is not responding to the input signals from the temp control? The shop has said that they will do it for no charge (already paid them once!) but wondering if this is something that is accessable from underneath or not? Thanks much!Joe